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Quick636
Mon Apr 19th, 2004, 07:31 PM
I need some major help here...

A couple months ago my stock brake pads started squealing. I had been to a couple track days so the concensous was that I glazed them over. SO I went and bought new ones. Slapped them in, they squeal WORSE than the stock ones! Ive taken the system apart three times now, and scuffed the rotors up pretty damn good. No dice, still squealing. The squeal is now a high pitched squeal, not the squeak it was before with the stockers. They are EBC street compound.

I have not taken the calipers apart yet due to the fact the bike only has 6,000 miles on it. The calipers should be fine. I get about one revolution out of the front wheel when I spin it, so it doesn't seem like the calipers are binding up. The brakes are bled properly, and the bike actually stops just fine.

I am at a loss here. Ive done everything I can think of short of disassembling the calipers and cleaning pistons, seals etc. Please help. A case of beer goes to whomever can solve my braking problem. Thanks in advance.

Gramps
Mon Apr 19th, 2004, 07:34 PM
maybe you should just change your name to squeaky636 :dunno:


:lol:

Quick636
Mon Apr 19th, 2004, 07:38 PM
That doesn't get you the case of beer...

NEXT! :lol:

Rick T.
Mon Apr 19th, 2004, 07:52 PM
I had EBC HH on my 900RR - they are pretty squeeky... but not unbearable. Are your constant high pitch?

Quick636
Mon Apr 19th, 2004, 07:58 PM
Yeah, its pretty consistant. It may get worse as the brakes heat up, but it squeals at any temperature.

KooLaid
Mon Apr 19th, 2004, 08:40 PM
Try any brake cleaner yet? That fixed my squeak problem that happened thousands of miles after I did broke em in.

Quick636
Mon Apr 19th, 2004, 08:45 PM
That was the first thing I've tried, and have been through about two cans since... :lol:

Naw seriously, I sprayed it while it was all together, I took it all apart and sprayed everything down. Everything I have tried has been a temporary fix, a few miles later it comes back.

Someone else suggested anti-squeal compound on the back of the pads... anyone do that?!?

KooLaid
Mon Apr 19th, 2004, 08:47 PM
little bit of fine sand paper to the rotors and pads to get ride of any glazing or surface contamination?????? I'd try that out on my bike if it had that problem. Doesnt' seem like it'd hurt anything. Never used that anti-squeal compound before though, bikes or cars, never had a problem.

Quick636
Mon Apr 19th, 2004, 08:50 PM
Ive never used it on my cars either, so I'm not too keen on starting now.

Both the pads and rotors have been sanded a bit. I sanded the rotors so I saw almost NO shiny stuff. I even did a cross-hatch pattern where i angled one way then went back and angled the other. This seemed to work the best as I rode it for about half a day until the squeal came back.

yakuza
Mon Apr 19th, 2004, 08:54 PM
What about the pad pins? Did you clean them thoroughly with Scotch-brite? I haven't had problems with brake squeal, but I did have a problem with my front wheel spinning freely and 1 turn doesn't sound very good. If you ever got up to Fort Collins I'd be glad to tear into them and do my best, my brakes work great since I cleaned the calipers and put new pads in, and I get probably 3 revolutions when I spin the front wheel.

I guess the most important thing is to figure out where the squeal is coming from. If it's really coming from the backing plates, perhaps you might need a spot of lube in there.

Edit: Just don't let Bertha do the lubing. :lol:

Quick636
Mon Apr 19th, 2004, 09:18 PM
I'll make sure Bertha steers clear of this project! :lol: :D

The only think I can think of is that the calipers are binding, maybe I pushed something in there when I pushed the pistons back in. Consequently when they bind they heat up the pads/caliper and thats when they start squealing.

I know its race season for you, but I would GREATLY appreciate it if you (or anyone for that matter) could take a look at this thing. I am honestly at the limit of my knowledge, and fear that if I get too much more into it I am just going to screw something up. Either that or I'm taking it to TKs and having them fix it. Either way, this squealing has got to stop or I'm going to pull my hair out! :lol:

Quick636
Mon Apr 19th, 2004, 09:20 PM
Something else to note... they squealing REALLY started after I lowsided the thing at second creek. I had mud all over everything when I slid off the track. Could be another reason the pistons could have some crud in there. Its been squealing ever since then.

I just don't know why dirt on the pistons would cause them to squeal?!?

KooLaid
Mon Apr 19th, 2004, 09:22 PM
Oh yeah! I know what it is! It's actually a REALLY common problem that runs not only in the ninja line but every kawasaki ever built. They should have put out a service recall on em on it. Years and years and years of testing was conducted, and probably contributed to why they were years behind in the 90's by all that testing.
























But I'm pretty certain that kawasaki tracked it down to the fact KAWASAKI SUCKS!!!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: jk :D well...maybe jk hehhehe

King Nothing
Mon Apr 19th, 2004, 09:41 PM
Don't ask Bertha, it took him a WEEK to bleed the brakes on his SL1000! :D

Quick636
Mon Apr 19th, 2004, 09:45 PM
No offense guys, but this is a technical forum and I am really looking for answers and/or help with my bike. I'd prefer the pointless, shit-talking posts be posted elsewhere. Thanks...

Bertha
Mon Apr 19th, 2004, 10:34 PM
Blah shit talking should be done ANYWHERE!!!



Maybe you need to bead blast your rotors then let the brakes settle in... Just a thought... net time you have the pads out see if you can REALLY clean the pistons...

I'm getting less then 1 rotation out of my front right now, but I'm pretty sure it's due to the new pads... will know more after Thursday...


and Bertha lube is the shit!!! well at least you g/f's didn't mind when I stuck it in...

yakuza
Mon Apr 19th, 2004, 10:58 PM
Jason, if the noise is that bad and it occurred after a crash, it could be that something just isn't right. It'd be pretty easy for some grains of sand to get pushed up into the caliper seals, causing a piston to stick. If you're mechanically inclined you can try this:

Take a caliper off, put a thin piece of wood between the pistons so that they can push out a bit further than the rotor normally lets them move, but not all the way out. Gradually push them out some (again, NOT all the way out!) and clean them well with brake cleaner and a soft-bristle toothbrush. Gently push them back in, and remount. Do this with both sides, keeping an eye on the brake fluid level -- you don't want it run out and suck air into the lines, or overflow and push out of the mastercylinder.

Then, instead of just pumping on the lever to get the pistons back out, pump it slowly and gradually, about a half lever pull at a time, until they hold onto the rotors in their normal position. The piston seals are designed to not only keep dirt out, but to pull back on the pistons slightly to keep the brakes from dragging. When you push them out gradually, they're not likely to fold or deform, and thus will work better.

I can't guarantee this will fix your problem, and it's not easy to explain in writing, but this is what I would try. You're also welcome to bring it up here to Fort Collins and I would work on it with you. I'm available most evenings after 5:30. Other option, take it to TK or Tfog, I think Bart has the same bike as you.

Good luck man!

MattTLS
Tue Apr 20th, 2004, 06:42 PM
Did you compress the forks a few times (without using the brake) before tightening the axle pinch bolts (I'm assuming your bike has these) whenever you've removed and reinstalled the front wheel? This helps assure that the forks aren't binding (and this assures proper brake caliper to rotor alignment).

Matthew

RF900guy
Tue Apr 20th, 2004, 08:10 PM
Here is what I propose.

You say that you lowsided the bike and the front was covered with mud. Could it be the front wheel bearings. I realize that the bike only has 6000 miles but if you have washed all the lubricant out of those bearings then they are running dry and going bad. Your brakes should squeak when the wheel is spun because normally the brakes are only marginally touching the disk. have you removed the front caliper and spun the wheel. Does it squeak at this time?

Quick636
Tue Apr 20th, 2004, 09:19 PM
No, it only squeals when the brakes are applied, and only had normal riding speeds at that.

I am positive that it is coming from metal on metal contact, either from the pads on the rotor or the pistons on the pads. I work in an auto parts store, so I have some options as to how I want to tackle this. I'll keep you all updated as to what happens.

aeroeone
Wed Apr 21st, 2004, 09:57 AM
I've found that chamfering the edges of the pads generally helps against squeek........give that a try.

EliR6
Wed Apr 21st, 2004, 10:00 AM
If none of this works, (as Bertha said) bead blast your rotors and make sure the pads get bedded in properly. The method I like to use is to ride the bike slowly and apply brakes lightly about 5 or 6 times. Then speed up to about 30mph and brake hard. Do that about 5 times. Park the bike and let the pads cool. Repeat this until the brakes feel like they're doing their job again.

Another trick I've done is to take the brake pads to the grinder and chamfer the edges. The edges of the pads are basically at 90 degrees, right. Just "soften" those edges a little bit. Don't take too much material off for obvious reasons.

Good luck,
Eli

The GECCO
Wed Apr 21st, 2004, 10:00 AM
get the rotors bead blasted at TFOG, I THINK they charge $20 per rotor if you take them off and bring them in. the only problem is that your new pads may now be glazed, the freshly bead blasted surface may cure that.

how did you break in the new pads?

irdave
Wed Apr 21st, 2004, 09:41 PM
You crashed. Have you loosened up the triple clamps in case one of the fork tubes is twisted? Since this really started happening after the crash, one would have to think that it is related. Could be that something is twisted, and once you apply the brakes, it twists more- causing the noise... An idea, at least.

Or, I hate to think it... Could something be cracked? The new Kawi's have radial mount brake calipers- I wonder if something is flexing that shouldn't- and that's what's causing the noise. I mean, the noise is some sort of vibration- has to be caused by something. And if that pad/caliper is allowed to twist on the fork bottom- I bet that would make a hell of a racket.

Mac020
Sat Dec 16th, 2006, 02:32 PM
I accidentally put the squeakers on backwards on my Ducati once. Could this be the problem?

Gramps
Sat Dec 16th, 2006, 03:21 PM
holy crap

this post was from 2004


i think quick636 is way gone, illinois i think


anyway, he is probably not going to answer:)

swademaster
Sat Dec 16th, 2006, 04:29 PM
His bike was stolen a long time ago too.

Mac020
Sat Dec 16th, 2006, 07:15 PM
Why??? Is there some kind of new brake technology I don't know about? Have brakes stopped making noise since 2004? Maybe the a$$holes that stole the bike want to know how to fix it:cry: Ya think about that? Hmmmm! Fuk'in theives anyway. Sorry to hear about that! And yeah I noticed the date but got tired of reading the Kite soap and thought I'd offer some insight on motorcycling! Besides 636 never got back like he said he would!

chriskat1100
Sat Dec 16th, 2006, 07:29 PM
maybe you should just change your name to squeaky636 :dunno:


:lol:
:applause:

No-coast-punk
Sun Dec 17th, 2006, 09:15 AM
Using a small file chamfer the edges of the brake pads down about 1/2mm. Then using an ultra high temp. copper anti-sieze (at least 1,000 degree rating. Molykote is my personal favorite) paint a liberal coating onto the pad backing plates at any area that touches the caliper (edges too). Make sure no anti-sieze gets on the pad compound itself.

If they are still squealing after this the compound will NEVER be quiet.

Those bikes also have radial mount calipers. In a crash it's possible to twist one slightly so that under braking the leading and trailing edge of the pad see un-even clamping force. This can cause the pad to squeal too. The only real way to check for this is to remove the caliper and check to see if it's true in a special jig.

Hope this helps somebody down the line.