Need a good 2 stroke shop

[reddeth]

Well, its getting into riding season again, for both dirt bikes and streetbikes. I'm trying to get my 1995 YZ125 up and running, but suck horribly at tuning two strokes.

Does anyone know of a good shop that can tune the carb and fix any other problems with the bike?

[Airreed]

TFOG!!!

[FZRguy]

Best dirt shop in the metro area is Racers Edge owned by Jim Bennett. Number is 303-986-2107; location is Lakewood at Kentucky and Garrison. Also, Mark at Mark’s Motorcycle is very good with two-strokes. He’s just west of Santa Fe on Hampden. Number is 303-761-3273.

[reddeth]

Cool, thanks guys! Hopefully I can get the bike running and either ride or sell it (most likely the latter)

[reddeth]

Ok, did wind up taking it to a shop and was told that the piston needed to be replaced, however the place wanted about $400 to do it and since I've rebuilt motors and have a manual, I'm gonna do it myself. I can get the parts at dealer cost and do the work myself, my main question is what all will I need?

This is what I imagine, but please tell me if I'm leaving anythign out:
Piston
Head gasket
Oil rings
Gasket that goes from the motors lower end and piston sleeve

That would be it, I think, but since I've never done a piston on a dirt bike, and it takes a bit of time to physically get the parts, did I leave anything out?

[TFOGGuys]

If you order a top end gasket set and a piston kit, you should be ok. The one thing you won't know until you get it apart is the bore size and condition. As old as it is, it may have already been bored oversize, or the bore may have enough wear or damage that it needs to go to the next larger bore. The 95 came with a ceramic composite plated bore, which doesn't rule out the possibility that someone has already had it bored and replated or sleeved.

[FZRguy]

Really bro, nothing is easier than a two-stroke top-end O/H. I spent about $70 on my 125. Get a new upper rod bearing too (it’s not included in the piston kit).

[reddeth]

If you order a top end gasket set and a piston kit, you should be ok. The one thing you won't know until you get it apart is the bore size and condition. As old as it is, it may have already been bored oversize, or the bore may have enough wear or damage that it needs to go to the next larger bore. The 95 came with a ceramic composite plated bore, which doesn't rule out the possibility that someone has already had it bored and replated or sleeved. Yeah, I need to pull it apart, like said I just don't want to miss something and have to leave the bike sitting apart at work for 4 more weeks while I wait for parts.

And yeah, replacing pistons == easy. I'm still in the process of rebuilding the motor on my truck for a second time (don't ask) so I'm no stranger to it. Like said above, just wanted to make sure I had the right parts.

And thank you for the help!

[reddeth]

One last snag, I need a machine shop that can hone and/or bore the cylinder if needed. I've got everything apart but so far the 5 machine shops I"ve called that are local don't work on dirt bikes, they'll do cars, Harleys, street bikes, one guy even said he'll do lawn mowers, but alas no dirt bikes.

Any ideas?

[Chris]

Those people who advertise in the back of dirtbike mags for cylinder repair should be your best bet.

[FZRguy]

http://www.lasleeve.com/master.html

[R1chie]

Ok, did wind up taking it to a shop and was told that the piston needed to be replaced, however the place wanted about $400 to do it and since I've rebuilt motors and have a manual, I'm gonna do it myself. I can get the parts at dealer cost and do the work myself, my main question is what all will I need?

This is what I imagine, but please tell me if I'm leaving anythign out:
Piston
Head gasket
Oil rings
Gasket that goes from the motors lower end and piston sleeve

That would be it, I think, but since I've never done a piston on a dirt bike, and it takes a bit of time to physically get the parts, did I leave anything out?

It is easy, even someone with little engine background can do it. Don't forget the top end bearing, the wrist pin and the circlips that hold the pin in. (Cover the bottom end so the circlips do not accidently fall into the crank, turning the bike upsidedown to get stuff you dropped in there is not fun) Also check for play on the rod, up and down, side to side for specs, if the bottom end rod bearing is wore out you have to split the cases, which then you should also replace the bottom end bearing.

If you have a power valve take it apart and clean it while you are at it or make sure it turns smooth and easy, this can cause loss of power if it is not able to open easily or all the way (carbon from the exhaust and 2stroke oil gunk it up). Buy a new exhaust gasket and make sure the exhaust springs are tight, leakage there causes power loss. I always replace the intake gasket, air leaks make the bike run lean and can cause detonation. Good luck.

Hoaning is easy, just buy one the connects to your drill. If you have a nickacil (sp) lining, you cannot bore it, you must have it resurface, unless you have blown the engine, stuck the rings or the engine was raced and had a lot of use, you should not have to do that.