pilot
Mon May 21st, 2007, 09:26 PM
Note: Changing pads ain't tough but it ain't making a bowl of cereal either. Take your time and wear eye protection.
Recently I was in need for new binders (pads). I bought the pad sets and set off to do the repair. The job didn't take long and it helped me become more familiar with my ride. You never know when you'll need to do some wrenching- say, on that 30 miles of road in the middle of nowhere.
Basic tools that you'll need (may vary by bike)
Screwdriver Socket and Driver
Hex Wrenches
Pliers
Shop Rag
Pads
Tubing to attach to Bleed Valve on Caliper and container to catch expelled fluid. NEVER reuse old fluid.
Small container to place parts in
Torque Wrench
Specs book
Note Pad and Pencil
Mechanics gloves (busted knuckles suck)
Correct brake fluid type, i.e. DOT 3, 4 or 5. Do not intermix types unless said to be "mixable" on label.
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5498236
First get you bike in a comfortable working location and position. In the shade with lots of indirect light is best.
Next, wipe down or wash your bike off. Water, dirt and grime are you enemy.
Decide if it will be easier to remove/replace the parts while the caliper is on or off the disk.
Locate the following parts and begin disassembly.
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5498229
Remove the hex bolts that hold on the spring clip.
Remove the Spring clip.
Remove the pad retaining hex bolt.http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5503867
Remove old pads
Push back pistons as far as possible. Room must be had to slip the new pads over the disk. Bleeding of some fluid is usually required to push back the pistons.http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5498231
Reverse disassembly order to reinstall. Torque bolts to specs.
Bleed brakes by applying pressure to brake lever at the same time open up the bleeder valve. Close valve before lever is fully depressed. Release lever. Add fluid to reservoir if needed. Continue process until no air/gas bubbles are expelled from bleeder valve. Note: This is where a bleeder kit, from an auto store (cheap) comes in handy-especially if you do it by yourself.http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5498235
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5498237
Make sure all parts are together as they were when you started.
With front wheel off ground-if possible- test for free rotation of wheel.
With wheels on ground, test lever pressure while rolling bike forward and back.
Wash bike off to clean off any fluids from work.http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5498238
Test lever pressure again.
Put on your safety gear and take a test ride. Ease in brakes slowly until you and the brakes get to know each other.
Re-bleed brakes if needed (sponginess in lever).Your done. Good Job! Have a beer and go do you lawn sprinkler valves now.
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5498239
Disclaimer: This and most any mechanical work has dangers inherent to it. Brakes are safety equipment. I assume no responsibility for errors or omissions.
Recently I was in need for new binders (pads). I bought the pad sets and set off to do the repair. The job didn't take long and it helped me become more familiar with my ride. You never know when you'll need to do some wrenching- say, on that 30 miles of road in the middle of nowhere.
Basic tools that you'll need (may vary by bike)
Screwdriver Socket and Driver
Hex Wrenches
Pliers
Shop Rag
Pads
Tubing to attach to Bleed Valve on Caliper and container to catch expelled fluid. NEVER reuse old fluid.
Small container to place parts in
Torque Wrench
Specs book
Note Pad and Pencil
Mechanics gloves (busted knuckles suck)
Correct brake fluid type, i.e. DOT 3, 4 or 5. Do not intermix types unless said to be "mixable" on label.
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5498236
First get you bike in a comfortable working location and position. In the shade with lots of indirect light is best.
Next, wipe down or wash your bike off. Water, dirt and grime are you enemy.
Decide if it will be easier to remove/replace the parts while the caliper is on or off the disk.
Locate the following parts and begin disassembly.
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5498229
Remove the hex bolts that hold on the spring clip.
Remove the Spring clip.
Remove the pad retaining hex bolt.http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5503867
Remove old pads
Push back pistons as far as possible. Room must be had to slip the new pads over the disk. Bleeding of some fluid is usually required to push back the pistons.http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5498231
Reverse disassembly order to reinstall. Torque bolts to specs.
Bleed brakes by applying pressure to brake lever at the same time open up the bleeder valve. Close valve before lever is fully depressed. Release lever. Add fluid to reservoir if needed. Continue process until no air/gas bubbles are expelled from bleeder valve. Note: This is where a bleeder kit, from an auto store (cheap) comes in handy-especially if you do it by yourself.http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5498235
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5498237
Make sure all parts are together as they were when you started.
With front wheel off ground-if possible- test for free rotation of wheel.
With wheels on ground, test lever pressure while rolling bike forward and back.
Wash bike off to clean off any fluids from work.http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5498238
Test lever pressure again.
Put on your safety gear and take a test ride. Ease in brakes slowly until you and the brakes get to know each other.
Re-bleed brakes if needed (sponginess in lever).Your done. Good Job! Have a beer and go do you lawn sprinkler valves now.
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5498239
Disclaimer: This and most any mechanical work has dangers inherent to it. Brakes are safety equipment. I assume no responsibility for errors or omissions.