Making the switch to full synthetic...

[mclarke]

Is this reccomended? The time is approaching for the r6's next oil change and I am looking for some reccomendations on oil/filters. I have always been told on the yami's to use the factory oil filters, But am kind of clueless on oil's to use...

Danke!

[konichd]

AMS synthetic 10-40w with a stock yamaha filter

How about you start by actually washing the bike first? ;)

[rybo]

Matt,

All of these filters are quality parts and are interchangable with your R6. Bosch filters are available at Checker autoparts stores, Purolators can be found at Advance. The supertech filters (almost identical to the Bosch) are found at Wal-Mart

I've been using Mobil 1 synthetic car oil (15W50) in my bikes for years without an issue. It's about $6 a quart and is one of the best synthetic oils available. Another that I have (and would) use is Amsoil. You have to buy it through an independent dealer, and it's about the same money. Amsoil introduced synthetics to the consumer market and is an extremely good product.

I wouldn't get too worried about which filter to use. Everything listed below is an excellent filter, easily better than the one Yamaha sells you (which is still a perfectly good filter) I would avoid anything with the word FRAM on it....

About 2.5 inches long.

Purolator Pure One PL14612, about $6.
Mobil M1-108, about $12.
Made by Champion.
Bosch 3300, about $6.
Made by Champion.
About 3.25 inches long.

Purolator Pure One PL14610, about $6.
Mobil 1 M1-110, about $10.
Made by Champion.
Bosch 3323, about $6.
Made By Champion.
WalMart SuperTech ST7317,
about $2. Made by Champion.

[Aracheon]

I've heard that synthetic isn't good for the clutch discs. This too, is something I wouldn't mind getting some clarification on. The F4i is ready for an oil change again.


EDIT: I am slow... thanks Scott!

[konichd]

I know people are going to argue over this, but if you bike has over 2,000 miles on it don't bother changing over to synthetic. You'll find some nifty oil leaks, etc. :)

Argue on kids.

[Sortarican]

I know people are going to argue over this, but if you bike has over 2,000 miles on it don't bother changing over to synthetic. You'll find some nifty oil leaks, etc. :)

Argue on kids.

I've never seen this, and I've gone through a lot of used bikes.
I always use syth and pretty sure odds are at least one of them received it's 1st syth oil change late in it's milage.

Besides, if it's on the correct side oil leaks can act as automatic chain lubrication systems.
Or even more fun, automatic tire lubrication.
(Then you can back it in like DK.)

[rybo]

I've heard that synthetic isn't good for the clutch discs. This too, is something I wouldn't mind getting some clarification on. The F4i is ready for an oil change again.


EDIT: I am slow... thanks Scott!

No worries....when you pick your oil make sure to check the label on the back. Avoid any oil for your bike that has the words "energy conserving" on it. These contain friction modifyers that CAN cause a clutch to slip.

I've attached a picture of the label below.

[rybo]

I know people are going to argue over this, but if you bike has over 2,000 miles on it don't bother changing over to synthetic. You'll find some nifty oil leaks, etc. :)

Argue on kids.

Arguing: Switch any time. There is nothing in synthetic oils that would cause something to leak if it was properly sealed.

[konichd]

RYBO: Hey DK I heard you killed a guy once
DK: Sure did, shot that f*cker right in the head
RYBO: What was he doing?
DK: Hackin' on me
Rybo: :shock:

[Sortarican]

No worries....when you pick your oil make sure to check the label on the back. Avoid any oil for your bike that has the words "energy conserving" on it. These contain friction modifyers that CAN cause a clutch to slip.
I've attached a picture of the label below.

:imwithstupid: The man knows his business.
(Also check for and avoid detergent additives.)

[rybo]

RYBO: Hey DK I heard you killed a guy once
DK: Sure did, shot that f*cker right in the head
RYBO: What was he doing?
DK: Hackin' on me
Rybo: :shock:


Rybo: :pointlaugh:

DK: :nuke:

[konichd]

I've just seen a couple cases were people switch over and develop leaks out of the stator cover (which you should replace Matt :) ) along with burning a little oil. I'd just keep using the oil you have been and save the extra money for: paint, left side mirror, speedo cover, swingarm spools, truing up both your rims, rearsets, new grips, replace clips and bolts that are missing, shit....the list goes on from there but its a start :)

[Fly boy]

I switched at 24,000 and haven't seen any problems 8k miles later.

[dirkterrell]

Oh boy! An oil thread!!!! http://www.boulder.swri.edu/%7Eterrell/images/goofy.gif

Seriously, the most important thing is keeping whatever oil you use in good shape. If you tend to be lazy and not change it as often (I change mine religiously at 2000 mile intervals) or ride very infrequently, a synthetic is a good choice. Just watch out for the oils that are labeled "energy conserving" (i.e with friction modifiers, high in molybdenum). They aren't too good for wet clutches.

Dirk

[TMP]

AMSOIL 10W-40...... switched at 6k and have better clutch performance than before with the fossil oil. I spent like 20 extra bux to use full synthetic so it's not really breaking the bank.

[TT5.0]

I've been using Mobil 1 synthetic car oil (15W50) in my bikes for years without an issue. It's about $6 a quart and is one of the best synthetic oils available. Another that I have (and would) use is Amsoil. You have to buy it through an independent dealer, and it's about the same money. Amsoil introduced synthetics to the consumer market and is an extremely good product.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think Mobil started using friction modifiers in their new synthetics. I recall seeing "energy conserving" on the back of their oils now. I overpay and use Mobil MX4T 10W-40 for about $8-9 a quart.

[rybo]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think Mobil started using friction modifiers in their new synthetics. I recall seeing "energy conserving" on the back of their oils now. I overpay and use Mobil MX4T 10W-40 for about $8-9 a quart.

That would be a shame if it were true. I buy in bulk, so I have a pretty good quantity. I'll check the labels of what i have and then the next time I'm at the store I'll check those too.

Maybe I'm making the full switch to Amsoil soon...

[mclarke]

I've just seen a couple cases were people switch over and develop leaks out of the stator cover (which you should replace Matt :) ) along with burning a little oil. I'd just keep using the oil you have been and save the extra money for: paint, left side mirror, speedo cover, swingarm spools, truing up both your rims, rearsets, new grips, replace clips and bolts that are missing, shit....the list goes on from there but its a start :)

Rearsets check
mirror check

no clips and bolts missing! except my exhaust hanger..... I know she needs some work, but its happening, slowly and surely.

BTW, forgot to say thank you all for the advice!

[vmax2003]

I know people are going to argue over this, but if you bike has over 2,000 miles on it don't bother changing over to synthetic. You'll find some nifty oil leaks, etc. :)

Argue on kids.

Hey there David...This is true...for me anyway. I switched over to full syn.on the vmax and after about two days of running it was coming out the seals.. is there a way to fix that? or do I just go back to reg. oils?

[konichd]

Being a Yamaha this is no surprise. Go back to the oil you were using before and the leaks will go away. [D] on the board had a GSX-R that was leaking out of the stator, went back to regular oil and no more leak :)

[*GSXR~SNAIL*]

Any truth to synthetic not being a friend of the slipper clutch? When I first got my bike I was going to run synthetic, but found a few forum posts elsewhere that warned of slipper clutches not working well with it.

[rybo]

Any truth to synthetic not being a friend of the slipper clutch? When I first got my bike I was going to run synthetic, but found a few forum posts elsewhere that warned of slipper clutches not working well with it.

I can't imagine it would be true. The enemy of oil is called "viscosity breakdown" and clutches are really good a "shearing" oil causing this. Synthetics are much MUCH more resistant to viscosity breakdown and slipper clutches probably provide more shearing action on the oil, so I would think the two would be a marriage made in heaven.

Now if someone told me that slipper clutches break down oil faster....I'd be inclined to believe it's true.

S

[rybo]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think Mobil started using friction modifiers in their new synthetics. I recall seeing "energy conserving" on the back of their oils now. I overpay and use Mobil MX4T 10W-40 for about $8-9 a quart.

I had to run to the store tonight, so I checked the bottles that Wally world had on the shelf.

All grades of mobil 1 EXCEPT the 15W50 are rated as "energy conserving". The 15W50 looks to have remained intact without the dreaded additives.

[konichd]

Any truth to synthetic not being a friend of the slipper clutch? When I first got my bike I was going to run synthetic, but found a few forum posts elsewhere that warned of slipper clutches not working well with it.

I've been using AMS 10-40 in my Kawi since the bike had 5 miles on it. Now it has over 6,700 miles and I haven't seen any ill effects with my slipper. :)

[mclarke]

besides the mysterious leak that no one could fix?

[TT5.0]

I had to run to the store tonight, so I checked the bottles that Wally world had on the shelf.

All grades of mobil 1 EXCEPT the 15W50 are rated as "energy conserving". The 15W50 looks to have remained intact without the dreaded additives.
Good to hear. Maybe I'll switch to that at the next oil change instead of paying $8-10 per quart for the MX4T.

[konichd]

besides the mysterious leak that no one could fix?

$1.50 shift seal :) $252 in labor :( All under warrenty though :)

[mclarke]

crap, forgot you got it fixed.... I lose :(

[konichd]

You ride a Yamaha...you already lost :)

[rybo]

You ride a Yamaha...you already lost :)


Easy killer.....he's not the only one.

on a more serious note:


Good to hear. Maybe I'll switch to that at the next oil change instead of paying $8-10 per quart for the MX4T.

I've been running it for years in my bikes without issue. Give it a try and report back the results. There are two versions, Mobil 1 and Mobile 1 "extended performance" I run the standard and do oil changes every 3K on the street bikes and every race weekend on the track bikes.

Best to you

[mclarke]

So where is the local amsoil rep/shop that I can go precure some of this wonder liquid

[konichd]

AMS is available at Grand Prix for 8 or 9 bucks a quart. Feel free to stop at the parts counter and drop a few G's too :)

However I'm with RYBO, I use Mobil 15-50 in the ZX6R and it works just fine (only 5 bucks a quart too) and its more than good enough for shitty Yamaha's.

[merlin]

For some reason it's damn hard to find out here, but if you can lay hands on it, Rotella T synthetic 5W40 is good stuff too- I've run it in every sportbike or sports car I've owned, and will be putting it in the Buell when A> I find some and B> I get the Buell back. Best part: $18 a GALLON. Redline and Royal Purple get good reviews as well, but they are considerably more expensive.

Merlyn

[rybo]

For some reason it's damn hard to find out here, but if you can lay hands on it, Rotella T synthetic 5W40 is good stuff too- I've run it in every sportbike or sports car I've owned, and will be putting it in the Buell when A> I find some and B> I get the Buell back. Best part: $18 a GALLON. Redline and Royal Purple get good reviews as well, but they are considerably more expensive.

Merlyn

Amsoil is hard to find or the Mobil 1 is hard to find?

I get my Mobil 1 at Wal mart, and most of the autoparts stores seem to have it as well. It's $29 for 5 quarts in bulk...

The Amsoil is a little harder to find, but if you go to their website I bet you can find an independent distributor within 2 miles of your house. If you become a "preferred customer" with Amsoil you get a pretty good discount on the product as well, it gets to being about $6 or $6.50 a quart

[konichd]

I think he mean's the Rotella T is hard to find? :dunno:

I thought Rotella was for Desiels?

[rybo]

I think he mean's the Rotella T is hard to find? :dunno:

I thought Rotella was for Desiels?

Right, I own a Ducati, so I'm a little slow.

Rotella is for diesels, but it comes in the right weights and without the additives that we don't want in the motorcycles. There is also a synthetic version.

[rhicks]

For some reason it's damn hard to find out here, but if you can lay hands on it, Rotella T synthetic 5W40 is good stuff too- I've run it in every sportbike or sports car I've owned, and will be putting it in the Buell when A> I find some and B> I get the Buell back. Best part: $18 a GALLON. Redline and Royal Purple get good reviews as well, but they are considerably more expensive.

Merlyn

Rotella T 5W40 is $16.88 at Walmart. They also have quarts.

[BigE]

If anyone wants Amsoil, let me know as I am an official dealer.
Full synthetic is the way to go for bikes. Amsoil, Mobil 1 and Diesel spec oils all work great.
As for the leaks after switching to full syn...from what I understand that has happened and is caused by the syn oil cleaning out the gunk that has accumulated at the seals. In other words, if you have good seals you won't have leaks, if not...well the oil swap may help you find them. ;)

[merlin]

Rotella T 5W40 is $16.88 at Walmart. They also have quarts.

Which WalMart? I've been looking everywhere for the stuff, and can't find anything but the non-synthetic... Which is still good stuff, but I perfer the synthetic...

Merlyn

[InlineSIX24]

I have gotten it at the C470 & Bowles, C470 & Quebec, and Castle Rock Walmarts. Or you check
http://www.shell.com/home/PlainPageServlet?FC=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/where_to_buy/app_wheretobuy_truckstops.html

[arata954]

any thoughts on repsol.. ya know honda is as honda does :)