PDA

View Full Version : QUICK SHIFTING



Thadius
Thu Nov 8th, 2007, 02:26 PM
AKA Clutchless shifting,

So I was reading in SR mag that clutchless shifting is a normal thing and OK for sportbikes in general. I also was told by a guy I know that Drag Races that you have to have a quick shift kit like PC offers.

What is the right answer? or at least the most convincing opinion?????

Do I shift with out clutch? If so, can I leave the throttle wide open? Get a quick shift kit? I have heard it all and just want the bike to shift quickly without hurting my sled. What do you racer guys use?

rybo
Thu Nov 8th, 2007, 02:29 PM
The racer guys will use some kind of quick shifter which is an ignition interruptor to give the bike just enough slack on the drive line to allow the shift. You are perfectly fine shifting your sportbike without pulling in the clutch, but without a quickshifer you'll need to let off the gas a little to make it happen.

scott

konichd
Thu Nov 8th, 2007, 02:38 PM
Too bad I just sold my spare quickshifter :(

JPL Racing (Joe) can hook you up with a Cordona quicksifter at a good price.

The GECCO
Thu Nov 8th, 2007, 02:39 PM
On the street just roll off the throttle enough to relieve the pressure on the transmission and firmly click it into the next gear. It's easy to do and as long as you're smooth you won't hurt anything.

Titus
Thu Nov 8th, 2007, 08:06 PM
i think you're confusing two different things. quickshifter kits and clutchless upshifting

quickshifter kits, which the drag guys use which cut ignition & use a solenoid attached to the shifter assembly, so you dont even need your foot to shift.

clutchless upshifting you can do on any modern sportbike, while on the throttle put a little bit of upward pressure on the shift lever, roll off the throttle just a bit & it will click up right into the next gear. i do it all the time on the street.

dirkterrell
Thu Nov 8th, 2007, 08:12 PM
Do I shift with out clutch? If so, can I leave the throttle wide open? Get a quick shift kit? I have heard it all and just want the bike to shift quickly without hurting my sled. What do you racer guys use?

I've been doing it for 25 years on a variety of bikes with no ill effects. I do it by putting some pressure on the shift lever (doesn't take much) and rolling off the throttle ever so slightly to unload the transmission. It will pop right into the next gear. I should clarify that I do it for upshifting. I always use the clutch on downshifts.

Dirk

pilot
Thu Nov 8th, 2007, 09:26 PM
I've been playing with this one for a while. Still waiting for that horrible grind and snap. The ZZR 1200 is fine for the clutchless upshift (applying a little pressure lift to the lever and then blip the throttle); she just snickers right into the next gear.

While teaching in Little Rock I worked around with a 600RR and it could blip up or down without the clutch, no issues what so ever. I just had to keep the RPMs matched to the road speed when popping into lower gears. It was like having an automatic transmission. Nothing like coming up to a stop sign from fourth gear and only using the clutch to feather the friction zone to get the bike to balance at a full stop without putting the feet down and then rolling out without a clutch for the up shift. Fun stuff.

jplracing
Thu Nov 8th, 2007, 10:00 PM
I am the US importer for a brand of quickshifter named Cordona (as DK said earlier)

On the street you don't NEED a quick shifter. You can , as already mentioned, take the load off the tranny by slightly cracking the throttle and shifting positivly to the next gear.

From that point there are two methods that can be accomplished with the term quick shift. First is a handle bar mounted device that is pressed to actually create the shift in the tranny, like drag bikes use. The second is a quickshifter like Cordona makes. It is a ignition but off device that takes the load off the tranny and allows a full throttle upshift without any damage to the gears etc.

I hope that makes sense. If you are trying to create a full throttle shift while still using your foot on the linkage, then what you want is a quick shifter, if you are trying to create a shift via a handle operated shifter then what you are looking for is a air shifter.

Let me know if you have questions

Joe

Thadius
Fri Nov 9th, 2007, 11:28 AM
All good info guys thanks. I am pretty good with the clutchless upshift and I know the bike needs to have some throttle relief at the time of shift. I was at Pueblo for the Labor Day wekend races and loved how fast the race bikes scream through shifts. Gotta admit, pretty cool. I dont need a push button shifter but I like the idea of staying on the throttle when shifting up. Joe, how much do those typically go for? (So I can save my allowance)
PS What do you guys recommend for setting on my Ohlins sterring Damper? Clockwise all the way, counter all the way in the middle. What does one or the other do. I am retarded.......

rybo
Fri Nov 9th, 2007, 11:53 AM
You don't need a pushbutton arrangement, there is a switch that gets installed on your shift linkage for the quickshifter.

Here is a link to the set up that Joe sells. I've used this system on others bikes and it works as advertised!

http://rebellionmotorsports.com/quickshifters.asp

Now, for your steering damper, there isn't a "recommended" setting for those. It's a trial and error process, but here would be my suggestion. The place I notice problems most often at pueblo is either exiting turn 3 or turn 4 as both of those turns exit heading downhill. It tends to let the front of the bike want to pick up a little bit. If you are experiencing head shake there, turn it up a click. If not, turn it down a click until you start to experience a problem and then go back one click. Ideally the setting will be the LOWEST possible setting that prevents head shake.

See you at the track!

konichd
Fri Nov 9th, 2007, 11:58 AM
Thad, we have the same bike so here is what it looks like installed. TFOG installed mine in 45 minutes. It will also work with the stock rearsets (I sold my woodcraft's and put my stock ones back on) so give Joe a call and hook yourself up yo!!!

TFOGGuys
Fri Nov 9th, 2007, 01:29 PM
Notes on quickshifters:

1. If you want full throttle clutchless upshifts, you need the switch for the throttle linkage(Like Cordona or Dynojet sells, make sure you get one for the correct shift pattern, either standard or GP). Your PC III has quickshifter capability built in, but it has to be activated via a simple software change.

2. Clutchless upshifts without a quickshifter require you to roll off the throttle slightly, as stated by others. My experience is that some bikes like this more than others, and most will only do it smoothly at higher rpm.

3. Clutchless downshifts are generally easier on lighter bikes, and only with careful matching of RPM.

jplracing
Fri Nov 9th, 2007, 02:02 PM
Jim,

The nice thing about the Cordona brand is that one unit works in either push or pull configuration. So you don't have to mess around with different linkages for different rearsets.

Thadius, please go to www.rebellionmotorsports.com (http://www.rebellionmotorsports.com) you can find all the info you need. Please note that I am currently out of stock and waiting on a shippment that should arrive in around the begining of December

Joe



Notes on quickshifters:

1. If you want full throttle clutchless upshifts, you need the switch for the throttle linkage(Like Cordona or Dynojet sells, make sure you get one for the correct shift pattern, either standard or GP). Your PC III has quickshifter capability built in, but it has to be activated via a simple software change.

2. Clutchless upshifts without a quickshifter require you to roll off the throttle slightly, as stated by others. My experience is that some bikes like this more than others, and most will only do it smoothly at higher rpm.

3. Clutchless downshifts are generally easier on lighter bikes, and only with careful matching of RPM.

Bueller
Fri Nov 9th, 2007, 02:09 PM
Jim,

The nice thing about the Cordona brand is that one unit works in either push or pull configuration. So you don't have to mess around with different linkages for different rearsets.

Thadius, please go to www.rebellionmotorsports.com (http://www.rebellionmotorsports.com) you can find all the info you need. Please note that I am currently out of stock and waiting on a shippment that should arrive in around the begining of December

Joe
Hey Joe can I put one on the YZ? http://www.cosportbikeclub.org/images/MB/emoticons/huh.gif

ihavealegohead
Fri Nov 9th, 2007, 03:27 PM
I have an 05' R6, and I only clutch 1st, AND if I'm going slow up through the geers.

If I want to go fast I just clutch first -- that's it -- and for the rest I let off the throttle just a touch and shift up without touching the clutch. It is very smooth as if I had used the clutch. Note I'm not letting off the gas a lot, just a little.

ihavealegohead
Fri Nov 9th, 2007, 03:31 PM
Notes on quickshifters:

1. If you want full throttle clutchless upshifts, you need the switch for the throttle linkage(Like Cordona or Dynojet sells, make sure you get one for the correct shift pattern, either standard or GP). Your PC III has quickshifter capability built in, but it has to be activated via a simple software change.

2. Clutchless upshifts without a quickshifter require you to roll off the throttle slightly, as stated by others. My experience is that some bikes like this more than others, and most will only do it smoothly at higher rpm.

3. Clutchless downshifts are generally easier on lighter bikes, and only with careful matching of RPM.


Nice information! If you setup for GP, but want to ride through downtown at the speed limit are there any adjustments you have to make?

konichd
Fri Nov 9th, 2007, 04:00 PM
PS What do you guys recommend for setting on my Ohlins sterring Damper? Clockwise all the way, counter all the way in the middle. What does one or the other do. I am retarded.......

http://www.zx-10r.net/forum/showthre...g+D amper+mod (http://www.zx-10r.net/forum/showthre...g+D amper+mod)

The damper that comes on the ZX-10R is actually pretty week because the Ohlins has a larger bleed orifice, the aftermarket one has different valving. Do the above damper mod and you'll be good to go. Right now the things about as useful as a pixie stick :)

Then proceed forward with Rybo's suggestion.

Thadius
Sat Nov 17th, 2007, 12:06 PM
Koni, that link was no bueno. Can you double check it for me? I'd like to check it out,thanks!

konichd
Mon Nov 19th, 2007, 08:03 AM
Dang! Just go to www.zx-10r.net (http://www.zx-10r.net) and do a search for "damper mod" and it should come up. Basically just swap out the oil with a heavier weight fork oil.