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pauliep
Wed Feb 6th, 2008, 11:27 AM
So over the fall I had a run in with the guard rail. Picked my bike and still got it to start but the gauge cluster wasn't working anymore although the headlights were. After pulling the headlight assembly and the gauge cluster off and looked at the wire harnesses, everything looked fine. When I would leave the bike on and unplug and plug back in the gauge cluster, the speedo would do a like "tick" through (duno how else to describe it) but no other response, no lights, no nothing.

I would like to try to plug in a known good one but I don't want to waste the money if that's not the fix.

Any input?

The_Jackel
Wed Feb 6th, 2008, 05:30 PM
On what bike?:banghead:

pauliep
Wed Feb 6th, 2008, 06:10 PM
03 suzuki gxsr1000

pauliep
Tue Feb 12th, 2008, 12:28 PM
So after some advice from jplracing, I took a look at my fuses. Low and behold I had one blown, labeled for the turn signals. Suzuki was nice enough to leave a spare in the fuse box for me so I changed them up and fired up the beast. I almost crapped my pants as if I won the lotto. Lights, LEDS, and the diagnostics all came on and one second later I hear the fuse blow again. So something is touching something somewhere that it shouldn't. Well after pulling on the rear plastics I have my wires that lead to the turn signals hanging out with copper showing. Pretty sure that's where my problem is, so after work I'm going to get those taken care of with some new fuses to test out.

Jobe
Tue Feb 12th, 2008, 01:10 PM
I was just about to tell you the FUSE! When I threw down the RC, I had the same problem, had a blown fuse.

pauliep
Tue Feb 12th, 2008, 05:29 PM
Well adjusted the rear turn signal wires to where they weren't touching and it's blows a fuse :(

pilot
Tue Feb 12th, 2008, 05:33 PM
Do you have a multimeter?

*GSXR~SNAIL*
Tue Feb 12th, 2008, 05:43 PM
Do you have a multimeter?

No. Paulie only has a ohmmeter, voltmeter, and of course, an ammeter.

pilot
Tue Feb 12th, 2008, 06:31 PM
No. Paulie only has a ohmmeter, voltmeter, and of course, an ammeter.Good to see we still carry a sense of humor in this charged up crisis.

Paul,

It sure could be a short, or even the wrong size fuse--perhaps even other devices in the system that are drawing more amps than the fuse can handle.

You can make a short detector (might even find this on-line) by buying two alligator clips, a couple pieces of wire, 14 gauge, a 5 amp resetting circuit breaker, two spade ends to mate to the circuit breaker, soldering iron (and solder), and a basic camping compass.

It will look something like this (they cost $35 and way up) you should be able to make one for ten bucks or less in parts:

http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/2524.gif



the wire and circuit assembly replace the fuse. It will continually reset. This will send an electronic pulse (and thus a magnetic charge) through the wire. Each time the charge is sent the compass needle will swing. Follow the general path of the wiring (no need to remove the body panels as the pulse will go through metal and plastic). When the needle swing deteriorates then you will be within six inches or so of the short.

It does help to have a wiring diagram and service manual for this, but it is not critical.

I hope this is of some help. Perhaps others can provide some valuable information to assist you in finding the problem.

pauliep
Tue Feb 12th, 2008, 09:21 PM
Good to see we still carry a sense of humor in this charged up crisis.

Paul,

It sure could be a short, or even the wrong size fuse--perhaps even other devices in the system that are drawing more amps than the fuse can handle.

You can make a short detector (might even find this on-line) by buying two alligator clips, a couple pieces of wire, 14 gauge, a 5 amp resetting circuit breaker, two spade ends to mate to the circuit breaker, soldering iron (and solder), and a basic camping compass.

It will look something like this (they cost $35 and way up) you should be able to make one for ten bucks or less in parts:

http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/2524.gif



the wire and circuit assembly replace the fuse. It will continually reset. This will send an electronic pulse (and thus a magnetic charge) through the wire. Each time the charge is sent the compass needle will swing. Follow the general path of the wiring (no need to remove the body panels as the pulse will go through metal and plastic). When the needle swing deteriorates then you will be within six inches or so of the short.

It does help to have a wiring diagram and service manual for this, but it is not critical.

I hope this is of some help. Perhaps others can provide some valuable information to assist you in finding the problem.

I got lost somewhere in there. Which wire would I be following?

pilot
Tue Feb 12th, 2008, 09:50 PM
Fair question. The one that connects to both sides of the fuse that continues to blow. It really does help to have the wiring diagram. One side of the fuse will be load, 12 volts + and the other side will be feed to the circuit(s) it powers. It could split off on a junction block and series feed several needs (like branches on a tree) or run parallel (like old school Christmas lights) to many items. Either way, at the end of the line there should be no voltage between the last item and it's ground.


Hey, if it was easy, everybody would be wiring bikes.

pauliep
Wed Feb 13th, 2008, 07:59 AM
Well I will put up the offer for a 6pack for someone to take care of this. I do the the service manual (pdf) for the bike so the wiring diagrams are in there. I'll take a look in the BX for the "short detector" today.

pauliep
Wed Feb 13th, 2008, 07:38 PM
We can make it a 12pack of beer? :)

pilot
Wed Feb 13th, 2008, 07:46 PM
Any luck at the Base Exchange?

pauliep
Wed Feb 13th, 2008, 07:58 PM
no they didn't have the detector :(

pilot
Wed Feb 13th, 2008, 08:04 PM
Bummer. It is more like one of those MacGyver inventions. Got some spare paper clips and rubber bands? I haven't had one in a while. Maybe I'll make one and let you have it for a bit. Or better yet, you can pay me for the parts. That way it might be a win-win for both of us. You get the use of the detector and I get one for my tool box to loan out in the future. You got my number. I have to go get gas before the storm of the century. If you want me to run to the parts store and pick up the stuff, give me a ring.

Tipys
Wed Feb 13th, 2008, 08:10 PM
The smoke test use a jumper wire where the fuse goes then look for where the smoke is coming from and you should find your problem.

pilot
Wed Feb 13th, 2008, 10:10 PM
The smoke test use a jumper wire where the fuse goes then look for where the smoke is coming from and you should find your problem.That was also the test to see how easy it is to destroy a wire. The wire may not be completely screwed upon "smoking". It may only become more resistant to electron flow. As resistance goes up, amps (current) go down, but voltage will remain the same. One end result would be circuits (clocks, gauges, lights) not working or working improperly.

Where there is smoke, there is fire.

Tipys
Thu Feb 14th, 2008, 06:39 AM
I didnt say it was the best idea just you would find the problem