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BlueDevil
Thu May 1st, 2003, 11:15 AM
Ok so I am using the stock 02 R1 pads and they are near gone. I have been spending most of my riding time at the track and already have GR braided lines. I would like to get the best pad I can find to be used with stock rotors and calipers as well as Steel Braided lines. Part nums, web sites, etc are useful. Thanks for any suggestions.

Someone suggested EBC HH's. Any thoughts ?

Hoopty
Thu May 1st, 2003, 11:27 AM
I have used the EBC HH pads and I loved them up until my leaky fork seal ruined them. :cry: I got the EBC race kit brakes now and they rock too! :D Unfortunately I can't give a good comparo as my HH's went to shit and it's hard to remember how good they were. You may want to check with some other people on R1's though, some bikes come with really good pads stock. 8)

jwimbauer
Fri May 2nd, 2003, 10:45 AM
Ok so I am using the stock 02 R1 pads and they are near gone. I have been spending most of my riding time at the track and already have GR braided lines. I would like to get the best pad I can find to be used with stock rotors and calipers as well as Steel Braided lines. Part nums, web sites, etc are useful. Thanks for any suggestions.

Someone suggested EBC HH's. Any thoughts ?

Depending on what you want out of your pads. Synthered Pads like the HH will last much longer and provide a good grip initially, yet they will not increase their braking performance while having the lever pulled. Many racers consider them more of a "ON/OFF" switch that is difficult to dose during trail-braking.

Organic pads (available through EBC, Ferodo, Vesrah, SBS etc.) don't last as long (as our last endurance race showed - :x ) - they don't provide the initial grip but increase the braking dynamically while having the lever pulled with a constant force. They let off easier as you are turning in and don't upset the front end as much.

It really depends on your riding style and bike. Most sprint racers, prefer the organic style but it takes a little "getting used to". Myself, liked the initial grab - letting off before the turn and using motor/rear braking to get as applying throttle. Bikes have changed over the years and the trail-braking style is being favored with the current chassis developement (a good example is the current 2-stroke GP chassis compared to 8 years ago).

NOTE: if you run HH or synthered pads and switch to organics - you should beed blast the rotors. Also - synthered pads will (just like tires) require "heat up" periods and start glazing, however the life expactency is somewhere around 5:1 vs organics.

Hope this helped

thanks


Jurgen

www.teaminfotech.com

BTW: if you really want the coolest and best rotors on the market - I have a set (brandnew - front and rear) of the original "Braking Waved Italian" rotors for sale.

Hoopty
Fri May 2nd, 2003, 11:20 AM
Jurgen, what are you asking for those rotors? :D

jwimbauer
Fri May 2nd, 2003, 12:49 PM
Jurgen, what are you asking for those rotors? :D

You can't afford them since they have "Team InfoTech" stamped on to them in the middle. :)

Seriously - contact me offline if you are interested.

thanks


Jurgen

Hoopty
Fri May 2nd, 2003, 01:40 PM
Cool, I still have your #.

BlueDevil
Mon May 12th, 2003, 07:40 AM
Holly crap. Tried out a new set of EBC HH's. Scared the crap out of me!!!! I grabbed that front brake with 2 fingers and gave it a healthy but not ridiculous tug. Locked up that front wheel so fast!!! Of course this was on a buddies bike since my pads are not in yet.

Rule #1 never lock up the tire on a friends bike. My heart was jumpin out my chest. I got off right then. haha

hcr25
Mon May 12th, 2003, 08:11 PM
who did you order your pads through?? mike hard core racing #25

BlueDevil
Mon May 12th, 2003, 09:05 PM
I havent ordered mine yet. He got his at Performance.

What can I get a set of EBC 252HH's for? So far the best I find is 25 +S&H.............

Anonymous
Tue May 13th, 2003, 06:27 AM
Holly crap. Tried out a new set of EBC HH's. Scared the crap out of me!!!! I grabbed that front brake with 2 fingers and gave it a healthy but not ridiculous tug. Locked up that front wheel so fast!!! Of course this was on a buddies bike since my pads are not in yet. :o
Does your buddy have braided lines too? I'm almost due to change my brakes too (sometime this summer I s'pose) and was planning on going to braided brake lines and hadn't thought much about what pads to put.

Are you planning on doing anything to the rotors as Jurgen suggested?

BlueDevil
Tue May 13th, 2003, 06:32 AM
He has GR Kevlar lines and I have GR braided already on mine.


I dont think Ill be doing rotors anytime soon. Ohlins Damper is next on the list of mods. Tires are about due as well. Then maybe Billet case cover and such..... Who knows. SO many things so little $$$ :shock:

Anonymous
Tue May 13th, 2003, 06:34 AM
So you're just going to swap out the old pads for the new and not do any prep work (bead blasting) to your rotors?

BlueDevil
Tue May 13th, 2003, 06:40 AM
Spiderman speak English to me. haha


Never heard of that my friend. Prep work to me is cleaning the calipers, rotors, and bleeding or fluid changes if needed. What R U talking about :?

yakuza
Tue May 13th, 2003, 06:48 AM
Spiderman speak English to me. haha


Heh, must be Bob's Canadian accent. :lol:

Anonymous
Tue May 13th, 2003, 08:49 AM
It must be a German thing then:

NOTE: if you run HH or synthered pads and switch to organics - you should beed blast the rotors. Also - synthered pads will (just like tires) require "heat up" periods and start glazing, however the life expactency is somewhere around 5:1 vs organics.
:D

BlueDevil
Tue May 13th, 2003, 08:52 AM
Not sure what that means or what it does for me. Im sure that heat up is right!! :o I grabbed them and nearly got tossed over the front (Cold pads) haha Is this a procedure that protecs the rotor or something else.......?

When the pads glaze U can fix it with sand paper right? Or is there a better or more correct method?

jwimbauer
Tue May 13th, 2003, 03:44 PM
Not sure what that means or what it does for me. Im sure that heat up is right!! :o I grabbed them and nearly got tossed over the front (Cold pads) haha Is this a procedure that protecs the rotor or something else.......?

When the pads glaze U can fix it with sand paper right? Or is there a better or more correct method?

Not sure if it's a German thing or not but the old rule is: when going from HH synthered pads back to organic - you should beed blast your rotors since the synthered pads leave metal on the rotor.

Sometimes - scotchbrite (on a drill) works good enough. We used Vesrah pads for the first time this weekend and they worked really well. They are the only synthered pads that come in a progressive or linear compound.

Our endurance bike liked it and they braked consistent during the 4 hours of Nashville. Work awesome on the braking rotors.

Thanks


Jurgen

jwimbauer
Tue May 13th, 2003, 03:55 PM
It must be a German thing then:

I disagree, the Germans would:

- engineer a ceramic based caliber piston to disapate heat better
- develop a brake-fluid cooling system with fans
- have solid rotors to make sure to have max surface area
- develop a friction data aquisition system for pads, piston and fluid
- include a 64 channel, 200 hour recording device
- engineer a amplifier pump for the braking

then, they would figure out that the whole thing adds about 42lbs of weight, patent it and put it in the drawer.

The Italians would:

- drill the rotors in the most beautiful design
- make sure that the pads leave red marks
- hire the fastest rider
- and give it a cool sounding "corsa" name