Oil... article of some interest.

[Intrepid]

I'm sure this subject has been flogged to death. Of interest however is what I heard from the dragon's mouth when I spoke to the mechanics at the Ducati dealership. The stuff Ducati recommends is not available in the US (Shell Advance 4), so the stealerships can't gouge people by selling the stuff at a premium and must therefore substitute. They told me they use off the shelf Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 10W40 or 15W50. I put it in my wife's monster and the thing shifts like butter and idles better all around. Then I read this: http://www.xs11.com/stories/mcnoil94.htm

I don't know about you guys, but I'm really starting to lean towards the opinion that oil labelled as being specific to motorcycles is a giant crock of s_ _ _, and it stinks. If you disagree however, please enlighten me. Again, I hate to start a thread from hell, but I hate getting ripped-off even more!

Mat

[Devaclis]

I run Castrol Syntec or Mobile 1 in my bike. How many people on this or any other forums have had engine problems due the the type of oil they were running? Failures, loss of power, clutch issues? Not many I can tell you that.

[chad23]

if you want to use really expensive oil then you can get motol 4t double ester at $15.00 a Qt, or motorex has a 4t oil also. And it runs $15.00 Qt. Most shops carry one or the other. I use it cause I like to overkill everything I do. ADHD with a splash of OCD, Plus I get it for free.
I would think any FULL synthetic would work

[06sv1000s]

thx, great read. talked me into using MOBIL 1 15W30 for the bike!

[R1chie]

I always run automotive oil in my bikes. I usually run Mobile 1. It has to be non energy conserving oil. Oil the has the round sticker WITHOUT the energy converving text on it like this one below
http://www.dansmc.com/oilright.jpg

Do not run one that has the text like the one below, if you do it contains friction modifiers that could cause clutch to slip.
http://www.dansmc.com/starburst2.jpg

I use mobile one. It is 22 bucks for 6quart bottle at walmart which is 3.66 a quart. I seen pictures of a motorcycle drag racer racing a v-max that tested different oils synthetic and semisynthetic. He stated and show pictures of the pistons, rings and other parts that wore after just one run what kind of wear he got from each run. Mobil one showed the least wear on the pistons. This is high wear friction on the engine when racing. No matter what the oil you use, change it often between 2 to 3k miles. Over time the viscosity breaks down and carbon (the black stuff in oil) gets bad and carbon is a source of wear on engine piston, rings, ect..
On my R1 I can tell when the oil is starting to break down because the transmission is not longer buttery smooth, which is somewhere between 2 an 3k miles. Everyone has an opinion on this and this one is mine, mobile one change every 2 to 3k.

[JohnEffinK]

I am going with Rotella T 15w40 on the next one. A little "heavier" at 15 instead of 10 but when warm it is still 40. The new CJ4 oil meets the JASO MA spec for ash and is not energy conserving. 9 bucks a gallon. Conventional not syn.

Side note 1: my 2006 GSXR manual states that auto oil can be used as long as not energy conserving....

Side note 2: Wally world in COS on 8th St has Mobil 4T for 8 or 9 bucks per quart, cant recall....right there amongst the auto oils.

John

[MikeG]

Also, don't use a full synthetic until after the engine "break in" period of about 1000 miles

[rybo]

Also, don't use a full synthetic until after the engine "break in" period of about 1000 miles

Why not?

[Tipys]

Talking with a Bash a little while ago. I asked him if there was tranmission fluid in a motorcycle he said No then went on stating that it uses the same oil as your motor and thats why you dont want to run automotive oil in a motorcycle.

[JohnEffinK]

yeah, except my 06 gsxr owners manual says it is no problemo as long as it is not energy conserving and meets the specific Sx specs which I cant recall and aint gonna look up right now. No problem with the slipper clutch.

Owners manuals are invaluable.

[af_blues]

Also, don't use a full synthetic until after the engine "break in" period of about 1000 miles


Why not?

from a realy good article

Q: If break-in happens so quickly, why do you recommend using petroleum break-in oil for 1500 miles?

A: Because while about 80% of the ring sealing takes place in the first hour of running the engine, the last 20% of the process takes a longer time. Street riding isn't a controlled environment, so most of the mileage may not be in "ring loading mode". Synthetic oil is so slippery that it actually "arrests" the break in process before the rings can seal completely. I've had a few customers who switched to synthetic oil too soon, and the rings never sealed properly no matter how hard they rode. Taking a new engine apart to re-ring it is the last thing anyone wants to do, so I recommend a lot of mileage before switching to synthetic. It's really a "better safe than sorry" situation.

Q: My bike comes with synthetic oil from the factory, what should I do ??

A: I recommend changing the factory installed synthetic oil back to petroleum for the break-in period.


http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

[Spiderman]

Moved from Southern CO to Bike Tech for more exposure.

Bump! 8)

[Tipys]

from a realy good article

Q: If break-in happens so quickly, why do you recommend using petroleum break-in oil for 1500 miles?

A: Because while about 80% of the ring sealing takes place in the first hour of running the engine, the last 20% of the process takes a longer time. Street riding isn't a controlled environment, so most of the mileage may not be in "ring loading mode". Synthetic oil is so slippery that it actually "arrests" the break in process before the rings can seal completely. I've had a few customers who switched to synthetic oil too soon, and the rings never sealed properly no matter how hard they rode. Taking a new engine apart to re-ring it is the last thing anyone wants to do, so I recommend a lot of mileage before switching to synthetic. It's really a "better safe than sorry" situation.

Q: My bike comes with synthetic oil from the factory, what should I do ??

A: I recommend changing the factory installed synthetic oil back to petroleum for the break-in period.


http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


I mayself was going to put full in my bike at about 2k the parts guy at rocky recommended waiting a little longer to go full. I myself have a back round in cars was a little unsure about that but I listened to him being a motorcycle motor agian is different then a car. But any way you dont want to wait to long to put full in because it could start to leak and cause you engine trouble. Also I would say if the factory put full in then thats the way the enginers designed the motor to break in so I would just leave it in.

[DavidofColorado]

I was just researching this for my new dirt bikes. And I even read this article too. But what I came up with is to use 80w gear box oil in the tranny and 2 smoke in the gas. :alien:

The problem that I have is you could have saved me some time if you posted this earlier.:scream1: But it all jives with what I have learned already.

There is no cheap and comparable alternative to using MC filters. And not that I have a problem using them its just not available at any shop you have to go to a bike shop.:banghead:

[JohnEffinK]

But any way you dont want to wait to long to put full in because it could start to leak and cause you engine trouble.

That is a misunderstanding about syns. Syns dont cause the leaks. The leaks are always there. Typical cause of leaks when switching to syn is seal breakdown, which causes the leaks. This seal breakdown stems, usually, from old seals. THat is why your normal leaker is a high mileage vehicle that gets syn late in its lifetime. Seal swellers may be able to correct the leaks but not sure how that type of additive effects mc engines.

But like Tipys is saying - if you are thinking about doing it you might as well do it earlier rather than later.

John

[*GSXR~SNAIL*]

After about 6k miles I switched to this, http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil1_Racing_4T_10W-40.aspx

There was a noticeable difference in how smooth the motor and shifting felt after the change from conventional oil.

I bought it for $8/quart at Checker Auto Parts.

[DavidofColorado]

I am going to try mobil 1 today and I will let everyone know how it works out. I have a good feeling that I won't notice a difference up or down. But mobil 1 is really good oil.