New shocks and suspension??

[Redflash3]

I'm planning on doing even more trackdays this 2009 then what I did in 2008...6. I'm doing the J P 2 day riding school at MMP, Utah the end of April as well. What are the benefits opposite costs of upgrading my shocks and suspension on my 07 750 GSXR?

Thx

[spdr8cr02]

your best bet would be to send them off to dan kyle racing to get resprung/valved for your weight. best option for the money IMHO.

[jplracing]

Investing in suspension modifications is probably the best money you can spend. It will literally make the difference between fast lap times and a frustrating day.

There are a number of qualified suspension people. As mentioned above, Dan Kyle is good (never used them, but have heard good things) Thermsoman, Traxxion, GP, LE, Suspenion Solutions are all good

Just make sure that you talk with the suspension company to get the proper set up and support

Redflash...you should have my number if you have questions please let me know

Joe

[Tipys]

I'm planning on doing even more trackdays this 2009 then what I did in 2008...6. I'm doing the J P 2 day riding school at MMP, Utah the end of April as well. What are the benefits opposite costs of upgrading my shocks and suspension on my 07 750 GSXR?

Thx


You were on a 750 at ppir I thought it was a 600

[UglyDogRacing]

No reason to ship it off when there are many qualified shops here in Colorado that can do your suspension for you such as http://www.fixmybike.com/ or http://fastermotosports.com/

[Redflash3]

You were on a 750 at ppir I thought it was a 600

Yeah Tipsy I'm slow :) This year I want to put more time and effort becoming more comfortable, confident and technically sound on the bike.

[jplracing]

No reason to ship it off when there are many qualified shops here in Colorado that can do your suspension for you such as http://www.fixmybike.com/ or http://fastermotosports.com/


Jim

Talked with Dave yesterday. He has decided to move back to California. So he is out...

[McVaaahhh]

Jim

Talked with Dave yesterday. He has decided to move back to California. So he is out...


Bummer, I need my R6 done. :(

[Sean]

I'm planning on doing even more trackdays this 2009 then what I did in 2008...6. I'm doing the J P 2 day riding school at MMP, Utah the end of April as well. What are the benefits opposite costs of upgrading my shocks and suspension on my 07 750 GSXR?

ThxFrom what I've heard, the best track mod you can do. After having my stock dialed in, there was a big difference. Can't wait to get some cash and actually see what some real suspension upgrades could do.

Talked with Dave yesterday. He has decided to move back to California. So he is out...That stinks, big loss for the riders in Colorado. Smart guy and a really good guy. Wish him the best.

[IT WASN'T ME!]

Is your bike's handling, or lack-there-of, slowing you down, endangering you, or scareing you? If your bike is not trying to spit you off, don't waste your money, just work on your riding skills and have fun.

[TFOGGuys]

We're still doing Racetech(12 years now), which offers good value for money. Call me or shoot me an email to discuss options. IMHO, if funds are limited, fix the front end first, as this usually yields the best gains per dollar spent.

[rybo]

Is your bike's handling, or lack-there-of, slowing you down, endangering you, or scareing you? If your bike is not trying to spit you off, don't waste your money, just work on your riding skills and have fun.


I really couldn't disagree with this statement more. Generally speaking for modifications I'd totally agree....new exhaust or riding school? Riding school all day every day. New wheels or extra track time? Extra track time all day every day.

That being said spending some time and money getting the suspension set up is the most valuable thing you can do. My street ducati came with a rear spring good for a 200lb rider and front springs for a rider weighing about 140. There is no way to make that combination work well. The bike might not be trying to spit you off, but you'd never know it because you're just not comfortable actually going fast on it. You THINK and FEEL like you're pushing the limit but you're actually holding back.

On the racetrack this year I had the opportunity to ride someone elses duc, set up a little differently than mine. I came in from a few laps and told dave what this other bike did that mine didn't and in about 40 seconds he made an adjustment to my preload that made the bike turn in better with no loss of stability. End result? I went better than 1 second per lap quicker in my second practice session than I did in my first.

Spending a few bucks and some time with someone who knows what they're doing is the BEST equipment investment you can make with your bike.

I'm extremely sad to see Dave leave us, but I'm pretty sure we'll all be saying "we knew that guy when..." as we see his glasses and beard tuning a factory bike on TV someday.

s

[McVaaahhh]

:imwithstupid:

I'm convinced my crash at PMP is a result of my suspension not set up properly for myself. Is it going to matter when you're cruising around town? Probably not that much. If you're even thinking about doing a track day then it's worth every penny.

[IT WASN'T ME!]

I really couldn't disagree with this statement more. Generally speaking for modifications I'd totally agree....new exhaust or riding school? Riding school all day every day. New wheels or extra track time? Extra track time all day every day.

That being said spending some time and money getting the suspension set up is the most valuable thing you can do. My street ducati came with a rear spring good for a 200lb rider and front springs for a rider weighing about 140. There is no way to make that combination work well. The bike might not be trying to spit you off, but you'd never know it because you're just not comfortable actually going fast on it. You THINK and FEEL like you're pushing the limit but you're actually holding back.

On the racetrack this year I had the opportunity to ride someone elses duc, set up a little differently than mine. I came in from a few laps and told dave what this other bike did that mine didn't and in about 40 seconds he made an adjustment to my preload that made the bike turn in better with no loss of stability. End result? I went better than 1 second per lap quicker in my second practice session than I did in my first.

Spending a few bucks and some time with someone who knows what they're doing is the BEST equipment investment you can make with your bike.

I'm extremely sad to see Dave leave us, but I'm pretty sure we'll all be saying "we knew that guy when..." as we see his glasses and beard tuning a factory bike on TV someday.

s

That's one thing if you are racing for a championship and every .1 of a second counts, but if you are just doing track days and the bike is planted under you, turning in when you want, not wallowing, or going into tankslapers. If it's not trying to lowside you and you have good feedback from the tires and if you can set the sag properly with the spring rates that you have, then I think you would be better off pushing yourself harder until you start to notice handling problems. Then fix what needs to be fixed. GSXR's come with a pretty good suspension, I don't see a need to spend a lot of money changing things when he not even riding the bike hard enough to challenge the current suspension.

[McVaaahhh]

That's one thing if you are racing for a championship and every .1 of a second counts, but if you are just doing track days and the bike is planted under you, turning in when you want, not wallowing, or going into tankslapers. If it's not trying to lowside you and you have good feedback from the tires and if you can set the sag properly with the spring rates that you have, then I think you would be better off pushing yourself harder until you start to notice handling problems. Then fix what needs to be fixed. GSXR's come with a pretty good suspension, I don't see a need to spend a lot of money changing things when he not even riding the bike hard enough to challenge the current suspension.

My R6 was handling just fine right until I came out of turn 2 and tucked the front. I'm not a racer, it was just a track day.

Bottom line is that my suspension was set up for a girl that weighs more than 100 lbs less than I do and I'm pretty convinced that's what caused my crash. Track days ARE the place to push it and if you're riding the bike anywhere near the edge of it's capabilities you want it set up right.

If you're just tooling around town, having the suspension set perfectly for you is probably not the biggest deal in the world. But, if you're dragging knees through corners on a surface as rough as Pueblo's you definitely should have that suspension set up properly. There aren't always warning signs that something is going to go wrong unless you make changes soon...

Just my $0.02.

Does RedFlash need to spend 10k on a superbike front end? Hell no, but it sounds like he's pretty serious about track days and probably pretty serious about going faster on said track days. He should definitely spend the couple hundred dollars to have it set up and sprung correctly for his weight.

[hcr25]

That's one thing if you are racing for a championship and every .1 of a second counts, but if you are just doing track days and the bike is planted under you, turning in when you want, not wallowing, or going into tankslapers. If it's not trying to lowside you and you have good feedback from the tires and if you can set the sag properly with the spring rates that you have, then I think you would be better off pushing yourself harder until you start to notice handling problems. Then fix what needs to be fixed. GSXR's come with a pretty good suspension, I don't see a need to spend a lot of money changing things when he not even riding the bike hard enough to challenge the current suspension.


The same could be said about buying anything above a ninja 250 for a street bike. Most people will never ride any bike past its limit on the street or track.

Why ever buy anything performance related for a sportbike if you are not pushing the stock stuff past its limits?

[Devaclis]

At 1 point in time 90% of the riders on this forum said that you should spend your money on training and becoming a better rider over spending money on your bike. I even mocked all of you for it. Really, go look. You guys got all up in someones grill because they wanted to spend a few hundo on upgrading parts. :)

[McVaaahhh]

At 1 point in time 90% of the riders on this forum said that you should spend your money on training and becoming a better rider over spending money on your bike. I even mocked all of you for it. Really, go look. You guys got all up in someones grill because they wanted to spend a few hundo on upgrading parts. :)

Training is still the best performance upgrade you can make. However, suspension is not about performance, rather making sure your bike works at the limits you're pushing it to.

Mine didn't, and I learned it the hard way.

[matt2778]

Jim

Talked with Dave yesterday. He has decided to move back to California. So he is out...

Sorry to hear about Dave leaving. He just revalved the forks on my gixxer and I was looking looking forward having hime adjust later this year.

Who else would everyone recommend to set suspensions?

[TFOGGuys]

That's one thing if you are racing for a championship and every .1 of a second counts, but if you are just doing track days and the bike is planted under you, turning in when you want, not wallowing, or going into tankslapers. If it's not trying to lowside you and you have good feedback from the tires and if you can set the sag properly with the spring rates that you have, then I think you would be better off pushing yourself harder until you start to notice handling problems. Then fix what needs to be fixed. GSXR's come with a pretty good suspension, I don't see a need to spend a lot of money changing things when he not even riding the bike hard enough to challenge the current suspension.

It's about confidence. A stellar rider can ride around almost anything, but it's very hard to improve as a rider if you are trying to compensate for a bad setup. It may even cause you to develop bad habits that can be very hard to shake. Factory suspensions are a compromise, based on many factors: rider weight, single or two up riding, road conditions experienced by the test rider, and test rider skill, among others. Thus, many bikes are undersprung at the front, while being oversprung at the rear, with too much compression damping at the front, and not enough at the rear. Some bikes are exactly the opposite. Rarely is a bike well set up and properly balanced for a single (larger than your average test rider) rider for track conditions.

Is it possible to ride quickly on bad suspension? Absolutely. I remember in about 94 or 95, watching Ricky Orlando ride in an endurance race at Mountain View (later known as CDR), when the reservoir for the rear shock came loose, got into the rear wheel, and was ripped free, leaving the shock with NO damping. Ricky continued to ride, leading the race, for about 45 minutes until another shock could be pirated from someone's street bike and slammed in on his next pit stop/rider change. Their team lost about 15 minutes swapping out the shock, but still went on to win.
The point of this is, none of us is Ricky Orlando. It is easier to go fast on something that inspires confidence than something that is scaring the living shit out of us with each corner. And, good suspension teaches you to feel the limits BEFORE you go on your head.

[IT WASN'T ME!]

My R6 was handling just fine right until I came out of turn 2 and tucked the front. I'm not a racer, it was just a track day.

Bottom line is that my suspension was set up for a girl that weighs more than 100 lbs less than I do and I'm pretty convinced that's what caused my crash. Track days ARE the place to push it and if you're riding the bike anywhere near the edge of it's capabilities you want it set up right.

If you're just tooling around town, having the suspension set perfectly for you is probably not the biggest deal in the world. But, if you're dragging knees through corners on a surface as rough as Pueblo's you definitely should have that suspension set up properly. There aren't always warning signs that something is going to go wrong unless you make changes soon...

Just my $0.02.

Does RedFlash need to spend 10k on a superbike front end? Hell no, but it sounds like he's pretty serious about track days and probably pretty serious about going faster on said track days. He should definitely spend the couple hundred dollars to have it set up and sprung correctly for his weight.

Maybe things have changed that much sense the late 70's when I raced, but when I raced I knew what was going on with my bike well enough to know when something happened, why it happened and what to do to prevent it from happening again. I lost the front on my bike too, but I know why I lost the front. It was never "everythings fine and then bam"! It was more like if I push this hard and everythings fine, so I will push harder, oh now I am bottoming over that bump and starting a wobble that is making me get out of the gas. I better look at my spring rates or preload, or compression dampening. That's how I remember it. If it is different now, forget I said anything.

[McVaaahhh]

Maybe things have changed that much sense the late 70's when I raced, but when I raced I knew what was going on with my bike well enough to know when something happened, why it happened and what to do to prevent it from happening again. I lost the front on my bike too, but I know why I lost the front. It was never "everythings fine and then bam"! It was more like if I push this hard and everythings fine, so I will push harder, oh now I am bottoming over that bump and starting a wobble that is making me get out of the gas. I better look at my spring rates or preload, or compression dampening. That's how I remember it. If it is different now, forget I said anything.


I didn't have any noticeable handling problems. But, as I'm not a professional I honestly don't even know what to look for. I never felt a wobble or got a tank slapper out of it, just bang I was down. Those warning signs may have been there and I just don't have the experience to notice them. :dunno: In hindsight I believe I was getting a bit of a push here and there, but I really don't know.

I am quite excited to get the suspension set up correctly and see what the handling difference is. :D

[Tipys]

Maybe things have changed that much sense the late 70's when I raced, but when I raced I knew what was going on with my bike well enough to know when something happened, why it happened and what to do to prevent it from happening again. I lost the front on my bike too, but I know why I lost the front. It was never "everythings fine and then bam"! It was more like if I push this hard and everythings fine, so I will push harder, oh now I am bottoming over that bump and starting a wobble that is making me get out of the gas. I better look at my spring rates or preload, or compression dampening. That's how I remember it. If it is different now, forget I said anything.


Well I have seen lot of good riders leading the pack crash without any warning signs. Stoners quit a few times.

[rybo]

At 1 point in time 90% of the riders on this forum said that you should spend your money on training and becoming a better rider over spending money on your bike. I even mocked all of you for it. Really, go look. You guys got all up in someones grill because they wanted to spend a few hundo on upgrading parts. :)

For me this isn't about buying parts, it's about spending some time and money getting the parts you have working right.

[IT WASN'T ME!]

Well I have seen lot of good riders leading the pack crash without any warning signs. Stoners quit a few times.

Yes, but I bet Stoner and those other guys know exactly why they went down. When you are going 10/10ths shit happens sometimes. My point is that if you are only able to go 6/10ths of what your bike can do now, modifying your suspension is not going to help much. It may help you psychologically, and maybe thats worth it, but if your bike isn't giving you trouble now, then changing it won't help much in my opinion.

I once road a fellow racers bike that he had ridden for half a season with no trouble. He usually ran 2:20s at Sears Point. I warmed it up at 2:12s, no problem. As soon as I tried to cut som fast laps, which on that bike would be in the 2:06 range, the bike would go into tankslapers. I rode it back to him and told him to check the steering stem bearings, which turned out to be bad. Take from that what you will.

[Redflash3]

My R6 was handling just fine right until I came out of turn 2 and tucked the front. I'm not a racer, it was just a track day.

Bottom line is that my suspension was set up for a girl that weighs more than 100 lbs less than I do and I'm pretty convinced that's what caused my crash. Track days ARE the place to push it and if you're riding the bike anywhere near the edge of it's capabilities you want it set up right.

If you're just tooling around town, having the suspension set perfectly for you is probably not the biggest deal in the world. But, if you're dragging knees through corners on a surface as rough as Pueblo's you definitely should have that suspension set up properly. There aren't always warning signs that something is going to go wrong unless you make changes soon...

Just my $0.02.

Does RedFlash need to spend 10k on a superbike front end? Hell no, but it sounds like he's pretty serious about track days and probably pretty serious about going faster on said track days. He should definitely spend the couple hundred dollars to have it set up and sprung correctly for his weight.

Guys, thanks for your input and advise. I'm just trying to experiment with meaningful upgrades that I think will help me feel more confident and comfortable on the bike. This sport is one of tests and trials and I'm committed to improving myself and bike on the track. The track is where its at and I want the most I can get out of this GREAT sport. Going faster and continue to work on techniques is my goal for 2009.

[pannetron]

A 2007 GSXR 750 came with pretty good suspension bits -- so unless they are worn out or damaged, I suggest getting help *adjusting* the suspension to get the most out of the bike. One exception is if you're weight is well outside of a "normal" range. Seems a lot of bikes are shipped assuming a 160 LB rider but with a rear suspension with a rising rate linkage to also hold up under a passenger. So the front may be too soft while the rear can be too stiff. If you never ride two up, consider replacing the rear suspension link to yield a more linear rear suspension action. I've seen Jim Lindemann at some track days where he will charge a very reasonable fee to help dial in your bike for you. This is a hugely good deal if you can find it!

Modern sport bikes are very sharply focused and ride like a dream when they're dialed in and feel much worse when they're not. Their "in tune" range is narrow. Search for some of the basic bike setup instructions, grab a couple of friends and set the front and rear sag for you in your gear. I'm not sure if the GXSR has a rear ride height adjustment or not but setting a bike's front/rear attitude can also make remarkable differences in handling. Some folks routinely raise the forks in the triple clamps to steepen the steering. This works well on some bikes but not all. Different tire profiles also can make a big difference as can only a couple of PSI change.

Get a notebook and write down where all of your suspension settings are now: turns or clicks from full in or out. Then try a couple of clicks on *one* adjustment and ride on a curvy road with some bumps. A smooth road won't tell you nearly as much! If it feels better, try another click or two in the same direction. Here's a secret: unless you ride on glass smooth roads, the LEAST amount of damping that works will allow the suspension more freedom of movement and let it do it's job. Remember, the rider's job is to make smooooooooth control inputs to help avoid upsetting a "delicately" damped bike. Setting everything too stiff to counter abrupt rider control inputs is a recipe for disaster. Think finesse over brute force.

My experience suggests that after first setting the static and rider sag at both ends, one should then concentrate on front rebound damping to match the resulting effective spring rate, then the rear rebound to get that end to agree with what the front is doing. Then move on to the compression damping to get good behavior and feel over bumps. Depending on where you and your bikes center of gravity end up, you may want to increase front compression or rear rebound damping to avoid too much fork compression while braking.

That's my $0.02, hope it helps.

[rybo]

Great post! Thanks.


A 2007 GSXR 750 came with pretty good suspension bits -- so unless they are worn out or damaged, I suggest getting help *adjusting* the suspension to get the most out of the bike. One exception is if you're weight is well outside of a "normal" range. Seems a lot of bikes are shipped assuming a 160 LB rider but with a rear suspension with a rising rate linkage to also hold up under a passenger. So the front may be too soft while the rear can be too stiff. If you never ride two up, consider replacing the rear suspension link to yield a more linear rear suspension action. I've seen Jim Lindemann at some track days where he will charge a very reasonable fee to help dial in your bike for you. This is a hugely good deal if you can find it!

Modern sport bikes are very sharply focused and ride like a dream when they're dialed in and feel much worse when they're not. Their "in tune" range is narrow. Search for some of the basic bike setup instructions, grab a couple of friends and set the front and rear sag for you in your gear. I'm not sure if the GXSR has a rear ride height adjustment or not but setting a bike's front/rear attitude can also make remarkable differences in handling. Some folks routinely raise the forks in the triple clamps to steepen the steering. This works well on some bikes but not all. Different tire profiles also can make a big difference as can only a couple of PSI change.

Get a notebook and write down where all of your suspension settings are now: turns or clicks from full in or out. Then try a couple of clicks on *one* adjustment and ride on a curvy road with some bumps. A smooth road won't tell you nearly as much! If it feels better, try another click or two in the same direction. Here's a secret: unless you ride on glass smooth roads, the LEAST amount of damping that works will allow the suspension more freedom of movement and let it do it's job. Remember, the rider's job is to make smooooooooth control inputs to help avoid upsetting a "delicately" damped bike. Setting everything too stiff to counter abrupt rider control inputs is a recipe for disaster. Think finesse over brute force.

My experience suggests that after first setting the static and rider sag at both ends, one should then concentrate on front rebound damping to match the resulting effective spring rate, then the rear rebound to get that end to agree with what the front is doing. Then move on to the compression damping to get good behavior and feel over bumps. Depending on where you and your bikes center of gravity end up, you may want to increase front compression or rear rebound damping to avoid too much fork compression while braking.

That's my $0.02, hope it helps.

[IT WASN'T ME!]

A 2007 GSXR 750 came with pretty good suspension bits -- so unless they are worn out or damaged, I suggest getting help *adjusting* the suspension to get the most out of the bike. One exception is if you're weight is well outside of a "normal" range. Seems a lot of bikes are shipped assuming a 160 LB rider but with a rear suspension with a rising rate linkage to also hold up under a passenger. So the front may be too soft while the rear can be too stiff. If you never ride two up, consider replacing the rear suspension link to yield a more linear rear suspension action. I've seen Jim Lindemann at some track days where he will charge a very reasonable fee to help dial in your bike for you. This is a hugely good deal if you can find it!

Modern sport bikes are very sharply focused and ride like a dream when they're dialed in and feel much worse when they're not. Their "in tune" range is narrow. Search for some of the basic bike setup instructions, grab a couple of friends and set the front and rear sag for you in your gear. I'm not sure if the GXSR has a rear ride height adjustment or not but setting a bike's front/rear attitude can also make remarkable differences in handling. Some folks routinely raise the forks in the triple clamps to steepen the steering. This works well on some bikes but not all. Different tire profiles also can make a big difference as can only a couple of PSI change.

Get a notebook and write down where all of your suspension settings are now: turns or clicks from full in or out. Then try a couple of clicks on *one* adjustment and ride on a curvy road with some bumps. A smooth road won't tell you nearly as much! If it feels better, try another click or two in the same direction. Here's a secret: unless you ride on glass smooth roads, the LEAST amount of damping that works will allow the suspension more freedom of movement and let it do it's job. Remember, the rider's job is to make smooooooooth control inputs to help avoid upsetting a "delicately" damped bike. Setting everything too stiff to counter abrupt rider control inputs is a recipe for disaster. Think finesse over brute force.

My experience suggests that after first setting the static and rider sag at both ends, one should then concentrate on front rebound damping to match the resulting effective spring rate, then the rear rebound to get that end to agree with what the front is doing. Then move on to the compression damping to get good behavior and feel over bumps. Depending on where you and your bikes center of gravity end up, you may want to increase front compression or rear rebound damping to avoid too much fork compression while braking.

That's my $0.02, hope it helps.

Excellent post! I would follow this advice to the letter.

[Sortarican]

As mentioned the manufacturers have to make a compromise for various rider weights and two-up riding.
I think my R6 came stock with 130lb front and 220lb rear springs.

When you consider that rearsets or a slip-on can run you $400,
new front and rear springs at $100 or so each end are one of the least expensive upgrades you can make to a bike.
The difference is night and day. Best money I spent so far.

Also check around on what oil weights people are running.
Upgrading and changing out your old fork oil can have a huge benifit as well.

[IT WASN'T ME!]

A 2007 GSXR 750 came with pretty good suspension bits -- so unless they are worn out or damaged, I suggest getting help *adjusting* the suspension to get the most out of the bike. One exception is if you're weight is well outside of a "normal" range. Seems a lot of bikes are shipped assuming a 160 LB rider but with a rear suspension with a rising rate linkage to also hold up under a passenger. So the front may be too soft while the rear can be too stiff. If you never ride two up, consider replacing the rear suspension link to yield a more linear rear suspension action. I've seen Jim Lindemann at some track days where he will charge a very reasonable fee to help dial in your bike for you. This is a hugely good deal if you can find it!

Modern sport bikes are very sharply focused and ride like a dream when they're dialed in and feel much worse when they're not. Their "in tune" range is narrow. Search for some of the basic bike setup instructions, grab a couple of friends and set the front and rear sag for you in your gear. I'm not sure if the GXSR has a rear ride height adjustment or not but setting a bike's front/rear attitude can also make remarkable differences in handling. Some folks routinely raise the forks in the triple clamps to steepen the steering. This works well on some bikes but not all. Different tire profiles also can make a big difference as can only a couple of PSI change.

Get a notebook and write down where all of your suspension settings are now: turns or clicks from full in or out. Then try a couple of clicks on *one* adjustment and ride on a curvy road with some bumps. A smooth road won't tell you nearly as much! If it feels better, try another click or two in the same direction. Here's a secret: unless you ride on glass smooth roads, the LEAST amount of damping that works will allow the suspension more freedom of movement and let it do it's job. Remember, the rider's job is to make smooooooooth control inputs to help avoid upsetting a "delicately" damped bike. Setting everything too stiff to counter abrupt rider control inputs is a recipe for disaster. Think finesse over brute force.

My experience suggests that after first setting the static and rider sag at both ends, one should then concentrate on front rebound damping to match the resulting effective spring rate, then the rear rebound to get that end to agree with what the front is doing. Then move on to the compression damping to get good behavior and feel over bumps. Depending on where you and your bikes center of gravity end up, you may want to increase front compression or rear rebound damping to avoid too much fork compression while braking.

That's my $0.02, hope it helps.

Of course I would have done all of this before I ever put a tire on the track at my first track day.