new brakes

[bc_500r]

Hey guys, couple questions for ya.

I need to get new front and rear brakes for my SV650. I do most of my own maintainence on my bike except for tires, how hard is it to switch out brakes and what tools would I need to do it myself?

If I dont do it myself how much should I expect to pay for it so I have an idea going in if im getting ripped off or not.

Any finally, where are some good reputable places that you would recommend me getting this done?

Thanks a lot!

[Bueller]

Service manual is your friend. Brakes are easy, different bikes different tools.
Suggest deglazing rotors.
Someone will chime in with a detailed explanation, I just don't like typing :lol:

[bc_500r]

problem is i bought my bike with no service manual, got a good deal, couldnt pass it up

[Bueller]

Not owners manual, Service manual, use the intewebz or check dealer

[Bueller]

Or there is a tech day coming up

[eg bter]

Brakes are easy...should only need basic tools. wrenches, pliers Suggest buying EBC HH pads.

[brennahm]

usually just sockets, maybe allens. Should be good to go.

[OUTLAWD]

sockets, allens, brake cleaner to clean out the dust, some use a small amount of brake grease on the pins, scotch brite the rotors. Might want to think about flushing the fluid, because I doubt thats been done.

its not hard...mine took probably an hour front and rear, hardest part was getting the rear caliper off. IIRC you are close, I could possible give you a hand once you get a hold of a service manual, which you can prob get a pdf of it for free from an SV site.

...or go to the tech day...

+1 on the HH pads

[MikeG]

I thought that new SV had pretty low mileage, time for brakes already?

[bc_500r]

OUTLAWD, that would be awesome man, I live in greeley but Im in foco a lot since my gf lives there, i wouldnt mind just swinging by your place with the materials to make it easier on you.

Mike- Im up to 8000 miles on the bike, I think the previous owner must have been tough on the brakes.

[OUTLAWD]

NP man...I have enough tools to work on the triumph (torx!?), so I should have the SV covered. I am busy through this week, then going to a conference in DC til next tuesday, so as long as you're not in a huge rush, I can give you a hand.

I got 17k out of my rear, and still on the original fronts w/ 20k+...thats what I get for owning an old man bike

[MetaLord 9]

NP man...I have enough tools to work on the triumph (torx!?), so I should have the SV covered. I am busy through this week, then going to a conference in DC til next tuesday, so as long as you're not in a huge rush, I can give you a hand.

I got 17k out of my rear, and still on the original fronts w/ 20k+...thats what I get for owning an old man bike
Hey man, I'm on 15.5k and still original pads on both and my bike's not an old man bike! However, I AM a big fan of engine braking...

[MattTLS]

If timing isn't convenient with Dave (OUTLAWD), I can also help you out as well. I'm in Severance -- halfway between Greeley and Fort Collins.

[OUTLAWD]

Hey man, I'm on 15.5k and still original pads on both and my bike's not an old man bike! However, I AM a big fan of engine braking...


+1 that is something that the triple is good at

[bc_500r]

Thanks Matt and Dave, Im not in a terrible rush to get this done, probably within a month or so. Ill let you both know when i get the parts in and see who its more convenient for at the time, Ill provide a six pack of your choice as well. What all do I need to buy for this project besides the pads?

[MattTLS]

Pads should be all you really need. I've got brake parts cleaner if needed. And to be on the safe side, find out any relevant torques for reassembly.

[asp_125]

http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/2/Make/Suzuki/YearID/45/Year/2004/ModelID/8024/Model/SV650/GroupID/381329/Group/FRONT_CALIPER_(SV650K3/SK3/K4/SK4/K5/SK5/K6/SK6/K7/SK7)_

Looks pretty simple. Two pins hold the pads in the calipers. Couple of bolts hold the caliper to the fork.

Other "tools" that help: wire coathanger to hold the caliper instead if letting it dangle by the brake hoses. Shop rags and a small jar of clean brake fluid just in case. Brake pad grease or lithium grease for the backing plates. Brake cleaner. Pr of adjustable jaw pliers.

Loosen & remove the brake caliper mounting bolts. Rotate / slide the caliper assy off the rotor, hang it out of the way with the coathanger. Scotchbrite the rotors to remove any glazing or old pad residue. Good time to inspect for cracking, scoring or runout of the rotor, replace if necessary. Wipe down rotor with brake cleaner.

Remove spring clips that hold the pins in place. Remove pins, allowing pads to drop out. Be careful to keep track of where that bent metal spring goes, don't want to have it fall out and not put back in. Remove thin metal backing plates from old pads, transfer to new pads. Wipe a thin layer of brake grease between the pad's back and the backing plate, it's to keep the brakes from squealing.

New pads will be thicker than old pads. Use the adjustable jaw pliers and GENTLY squeeze the pistons back in their bores. You may want to loosen the cap of your master cylinder for this; it lets some pressure escape from the hydraulic system. This is also where spare rags come in handy, wrap one around the master cylinder in case of spills.
DO NOT even think about touching the brake lever at this stage, otherwise you'll pop the brake pistons out of their bores and get air in the lines.

Slide the new pads in, they should fit now that you've spread the caliper pistons. Check that all spring clips are still there. Slide the locating pins back on, and secure with the spring clips. Slide the caliper over the rotor, and bolt it all back up.

Close the cover of the master cylinder, tight. NOW, give the brake lever a few squeezes to get the pistons and pads to seat. Re-check all the pins and bolts for correct torque.

Repeat for the other caliper. Squeeze the brakes, they should feel firm like before, without any sponginess or softness. Otherwise you have bigger issues like air in the lines or you forgot to close the master cylinder cover.

[asp_125]

Bedding in procedure of new brakes.

New pads must be bedded in properly for them to work without fading. Do some gentle braking to make sure everything still works. Then progressively harder stops to generate some heat in the brakes. Couple miles around the block ought to be enough. Get em warm enough just before you get home, and then let them cool completely.