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sugarrey
Wed Jun 3rd, 2009, 10:47 AM
So I have new bodywork, but none of the holes are drilled. What is the proper way to go about drilling and fitting so they can be mounted? I have NO experience at this so any help would be appreciated. I want to get them drilled and fitted before they see paint I am guessing.

Anyone have experience that could lend some advice?

Spiderman
Wed Jun 3rd, 2009, 10:54 AM
Are there indents where the holes should be? Most, if not all the race bodywork I've ever seen has them.

Step drill bits work well (unfortunately I loaned mine out & never got em back :| ).

konichd
Wed Jun 3rd, 2009, 10:58 AM
Step drill bits and a laser mounted to mark the hole. It will take some time but it will be done right the first time and its worth it in the end.

sugarrey
Wed Jun 3rd, 2009, 11:55 AM
wow. i might be in trouble if i try this myself.

Sully
Wed Jun 3rd, 2009, 12:15 PM
If you're worried, call Rybo, see if he's still available for side work ?

sugarrey
Wed Jun 3rd, 2009, 12:22 PM
i dont want to f* it up. Id rather watch and learn the first time. Ill do that, thanks Sully

Graphite675
Wed Jun 3rd, 2009, 12:38 PM
I used a step drill on mine with no problems. Think I put a bit of tape over the area also to keep the fiberglass from chipping around the hole when I drilled and it worked fine.


.

Sean
Wed Jun 3rd, 2009, 12:40 PM
What's a step drill (bit)?

<---dumb guy here

Graphite675
Wed Jun 3rd, 2009, 12:45 PM
What's a step drill (bit)?

<---dumb guy here

Looks like this....

Sean
Wed Jun 3rd, 2009, 12:52 PM
Looks like this....
Thanks Graphite. :up:

bulldog
Wed Jun 3rd, 2009, 01:10 PM
I have never used a step drill. I just put masking tape around the area and drill on top of that. Never had any issues with them messing up my plastics and I have done it multiple times.

Yup, laser pointer method works best for figuring out where the holes should go.

highpsi03
Wed Jun 3rd, 2009, 01:16 PM
Step drill bits and a laser mounted to mark the hole. .
DAMN that is an awesome idea, never thought of that!

chad23
Wed Jun 3rd, 2009, 01:28 PM
if anything use a small bit as a pilot hole then the bit for the hole size. make sure your bits are sharp

Bashed
Wed Jun 3rd, 2009, 01:31 PM
Fiberglass tends to shear apart more than plastics due to the construction. Step bits are your friend, as they don't grab the product as a normal drill bit does. Keep the drill bit speed high, less tearing.
Use sanding paper to smooth out any rough spots on the edges.
Measure twice, cut once, as my mentor in the fiberglass business used to tell me. Fit all the bodywork first and work from the top down.
You can get a fiberglass repair kit at most automotive parts stores to fix any goof ups if they occur.

Bash

Sortarican
Wed Jun 3rd, 2009, 02:08 PM
A second set of hands is a must for this too.

Another way to mark to holes is to put the mounting screws into the frame (without the skins).
Then smear some shoe polish (gun stock intletting compound works great but is hard to find) on the ends of the screws.
Place the skins agains the screw heads where you want to mount them and the polish will mark the underside where the whole is needed.
Drill a smaller than final size whole from the back, with tape on the outside face/finished side to reduce splintering.
Then drill the final finished size whole from the outer face.

And like stated, small fractures or misaligned wholes can be patched fairly easily.
But spending a little time and effort up front and you should be able to avoid having to patch and re-drill.
And +1 on working from the top down.

Also if you have an old set of skins you can use them to index the nes ones to the factory position.

sugarrey
Wed Jun 3rd, 2009, 03:23 PM
Great replies guys, I may give her a try. Need to purchase some step drills though.

bulldog
Wed Jun 3rd, 2009, 03:38 PM
A second set of hands is a must for this too.

Another way to mark to holes is to put the mounting screws into the frame (without the skins).
Then smear some shoe polish (gun stock intletting compound works great but is hard to find) on the ends of the screws.
Place the skins agains the screw heads where you want to mount them and the polish will mark the underside where the whole is needed.
Drill a smaller than final size whole from the back, with tape on the outside face/finished side to reduce splintering.
Then drill the final finished size whole from the outer face.

And like stated, small fractures or misaligned wholes can be patched fairly easily.
But spending a little time and effort up front and you should be able to avoid having to patch and re-drill.
And +1 on working from the top down.

Also if you have an old set of skins you can use them to index the nes ones to the factory position. I've done something similar, but used Play-do instead of shoe polish or gun stock. Just an idea...

Aracheon
Wed Jun 3rd, 2009, 03:45 PM
DAMN that is an awesome idea, never thought of that!


The laser works well for drilling fairings for frame sliders as well. Laser pointer mounted to a tripod, center the laser point where the dead middle of the bolt would be (fairings off), then put the fairings on and mark where the pointer is.

sugarrey
Wed Jun 3rd, 2009, 03:54 PM
Just screwing around I was fitting the pieces together this morning, and they sure dont fit like the OEM plastics....Seem like they need to be stretched and fitted, gonna need a couple peeps for sure to do this job. Wish they were plastic.....

brennahm
Wed Jun 3rd, 2009, 06:58 PM
Good luck man.