Clutch?

[Stank Juic3]

Okay, never had clutch problem on a bike but here are the symptoms.

05 R1, when you try to gun the bike, the RPM's revs high but bike doesn't pick up until about 3 sec after. I take it that it's the clutch right. O and the "sweet spot" (when the bike starts to take off from a dead stop) is a lil higher now.

Can't lie I believe it's slipping from a burnout I did two weeks ago. But hey gives me a reason to get a brand new aftermarket one.

Question: is it the clutch or something else?

[Tipys]

I would agree that it sounds like the clutch

[konichd]

I'd change the oil first

[Mother Goose]

I concur. Next time when you do the burn out, pop the clutch out instead of easing it out. That'll save it next time. ;)

[brennahm]

BTW, that clutch is 4k miles old, and it's a full Barnett Carbon Fiber clutch kit...

[Stank Juic3]

BTW, that clutch is 4k miles old, and it's a full Barnett Carbon Fiber clutch kit...

Is it? Lol well :crazy: it's good I want a slipper. The bike is in the process of getting a full make over anyway. Going back to white/black scheme here real soon.

Mid Aug is going out to a paint booth. Pick up some tires today :)

[UglyDogRacing]

BTW, that clutch is 4k miles old, and it's a full Barnett Carbon Fiber clutch kit...

thats why it wore out. replace it with OEM

[Stank Juic3]

thats why it wore out. replace it with OEM

I don't get it, does't aftermarket "supposed" to be better and last longer then OEM. But then again I did do the burn out.:banghead: All in good fun.

[Tipys]

I don't get it, does't aftermarket "supposed" to be better and last longer then OEM. But then again I did do the burn out.:banghead: All in good fun.


I have used after market clutches in my car a few times and always burn through them fast. stage 4 4 pluck clutch 10k miles stage 2 soild pluck 15k. They work better but you burn throw them faster.


But on the bike I love a slipper clutch.

[Matty]

I don't get it, does't aftermarket "supposed" to be better and last longer then OEM. But then again I did do the burn out.:banghead: All in good fun.
My OEM clutch on my gixxer has 40,000 miles on it.

[Stank Juic3]

The slipper isn't a must (probably don't really even need it), I just do a lot of engine breaking and think it could help a lil. But I have a trackday here soon and don't have $1000+ just laying around for one.

It seems right before I want to paint the bike something has to take up that money. Suit (bought yesterday), boots, front tire (tire today), brakes (today), now clutch.

[UglyDogRacing]

I don't get it, does't aftermarket "supposed" to be better and last longer then OEM. But then again I did do the burn out.:banghead: All in good fun.

better? depends on what you define better as. as for lasting longer, generally the OEM clutch for any bike, street or dirt, is going to last many times longer than aftermarket from my experience. i will only use OEM clutches in my bikes.
maybe Jim at TFOG has some more insight.

[Mother Goose]

If you're not going to be doing a lot of track days, I don't see the need for one. I engine break a lot too, and only used the slipper once, just to see what it would do. Normal riding, I don't feel it.

[Stank Juic3]

better? depends on what you define better as. as for lasting longer, generally the OEM clutch for any bike, street or dirt, is going to last many times longer than aftermarket from my experience. i will only use OEM clutches in my bikes.
maybe Jim at TFOG has some more insight.

Don't blame ya. My CBR had 23,000 on it and the clutch was still going strong. That after many burn outs to finish off tire, miles, even learning on it and what ever else comes to wear down a clutch. You guys got me sold OEM it is.

Thanks for everyonefor the feedback.:drink:

[Ricky]

I had an aftermarket clutch shatter on me in my old 85 toyota pickup, quite awhile ago. It was 8 months old, probably had 3k miles on me. Swore I'd never buy aftermarket unless it was top of the line.

My Tacoma has 223k miles on it. Original clutch. AND I engine brake...

[jimwallace]

i have a barnett clutch in my zx9 and i have had no problems whatsoever and i run it hard (just ask tipys). I also have put many a mile on oem. I would suggest checking everything first. I had a bike that would barely move because the clutch was slipping and a bad cable was the cause of it. So you may want to check it first. you may also want to check your driven plates (the steel ones) along with the friction plates to see if there is any warpage or glazing.

[Fizzy]

thats why it wore out. replace it with OEM


The aftermarket kevlar is awesome. Make sure you put oil specifically made for bikes - no detergents - and put it in there with it. It should cost you about $10-$15 a quart, but it's worth it. I would also change the friction plates when you put the new kit in. Gonna cost about $200 total in parts, and it's something you can do yourself in the garage...

I had the same kind of problem in my F4, well that was before I completely blew it out, but yeah, sounds like the clutch is starting to go...


I would stick with that barnett or go to an EBC kit. All your power goes straight to the rear wheel, it feels awesome!