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View Full Version : Where to buy 600 microfarad capacitor?



Kim-n-Dean
Mon Aug 3rd, 2009, 10:49 AM
Where can I find a 125v 600mf cap? The original is a Great Wall cd60. I would like to replace with a cap. of much better quality.

If you know about this stuff, am I replacing the right part? How can I test the cap?

The motor on my tire machine stopped turning. When I hit the foot pedal it just humms. I used to be able to spin it while holding the pedal and it would start to work. Now, it won't start at all and just pops the breaker after a few second of holding down the pedal.

TurboGizzmo
Mon Aug 3rd, 2009, 11:40 AM
This http://cgi.ebay.com/new-capacitor-model-cd60--pmj324-110-125-volt_W0QQitemZ360154128588QQcmdZViewItem ???

Foolds
Mon Aug 3rd, 2009, 11:42 AM
Call Granger's

Foolds
Mon Aug 3rd, 2009, 11:43 AM
The cap is a good place to start. replace it with the same cap.. Its a Motor Start Cap. How do you know that cap went bad?

Could be a bad motor, Bad switch, bad cap, or stuck motor.

rforsythe
Mon Aug 3rd, 2009, 11:45 AM
Bad quality, good quality, it's all made in Taiwan regardless.

Sounds a little more like a bad motor to me...

Kim-n-Dean
Mon Aug 3rd, 2009, 11:50 AM
The cap is a good place to start. replace it with the same cap.. Its a Motor Start Cap. How do you know that cap went bad?

Could be a bad motor, Bad switch, bad cap, or stuck motor.I don't know that the cap. went bad. That's why part of my original post says, "If you know about this stuff, am I replacing the right part? How can I test the cap?". The, "how can I test the cap.?" is the important part. Anyone know how to test it?

I doubt it's the switch because I used to be able to start the motor by hand. The motor isn't stuck. Part of my original posts says, "I used to be able to spin it while holding the pedal and it would start to work. Now, it won't start at all and just pops the breaker after a few second of holding down the pedal."

badkarma
Mon Aug 3rd, 2009, 11:52 AM
jb saunders

Kim-n-Dean
Mon Aug 3rd, 2009, 11:53 AM
Bad quality, good quality, it's all made in Taiwan regardless.

Sounds a little more like a bad motor to me...Everything, according to my limited knowledge, says it's the cap. The fact that it used to start if I spun it, tells me that the cap isn't putting out the correct starting voltage. I really only know the basics about this stuff, but it looks like it's the cap.

Why would these symptoms make you think it's the motor?

rforsythe
Mon Aug 3rd, 2009, 12:38 PM
Everything, according to my limited knowledge, says it's the cap. The fact that it used to start if I spun it, tells me that the cap isn't putting out the correct starting voltage. I really only know the basics about this stuff, but it looks like it's the cap.

Why would these symptoms make you think it's the motor?

I've seen motors go bad that do the exact thing you're describing. I think it's something with the internal wiring that goes bad or burns out, to where it can't get started or finally just draws so much current that the breaker pops.

Is the cap swollen or discolored anywhere, or has it leaked anything oil-like?

Kim-n-Dean
Mon Aug 3rd, 2009, 12:44 PM
I've seen motors go bad that do the exact thing you're describing. I think it's something with the internal wiring that goes bad or burns out, to where it can't get started or finally just draws so much current that the breaker pops.

Is the cap swollen or discolored anywhere, or has it leaked anything oil-like?That was the first thing I checked, it looks fine. That's why I'm looking for how to test it.

Snowman
Mon Aug 3rd, 2009, 12:46 PM
Sorry man they were all out. Maybe this one will work better for ya.. Flux Capacitor for sale (http://www.tfaw.com/Profile/Back-To-The-Future-Flux-Capacitor-Replica-Unlimited-Edition___337120)

DavidofColorado
Mon Aug 3rd, 2009, 01:35 PM
You put power to the cap. Then ground it to something. Becarefull not to shock yourself. If you see a spark it means its working and holding power.
You can pull the motor and put power to it and see if it turns. It should say on the side of it what power it uses. I bet its the motor too.

Kim-n-Dean
Mon Aug 3rd, 2009, 02:01 PM
You put power to the cap. Then ground it to something. Becarefull not to shock yourself. If you see a spark it means its working and holding power.
You can pull the motor and put power to it and see if it turns. It should say on the side of it what power it uses. I bet its the motor too.Yeah right! Kindergarten electronics I'm familiar with. I'm looking for real info...

Like, along these lines, but for starting cap's.
http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/captest.htm#cttcm

Kim-n-Dean
Mon Aug 3rd, 2009, 02:01 PM
Sorry man they were all out. Maybe this one will work better for ya.. Flux Capacitor for sale (http://www.tfaw.com/Profile/Back-To-The-Future-Flux-Capacitor-Replica-Unlimited-Edition___337120)I knew it was a simple fix!!

Filo
Mon Aug 3rd, 2009, 03:07 PM
Yeah right! Kindergarten electronics I'm familiar with. I'm looking for real info...

Like, along these lines, but for starting cap's.
http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/captest.htm#cttcm

It is just a cap, so I don't see why the above referenced won't work. Discharge it first, then you can check it with an ohm meter. Or you can bring it all the way up to Ft. Collins and I can test it on my capacitor meter...

Foolds
Mon Aug 3rd, 2009, 03:20 PM
As Flow said to only real way would be to test it on a capacitor meter. You can try replacing it should be less then 10 bucks. if you buy a new motor you should change the cap any how so its really not much of a loosing situation

Kim-n-Dean
Mon Aug 3rd, 2009, 03:52 PM
It is just a cap, so I don't see why the above referenced won't work. Discharge it first, then you can check it with an ohm meter. Or you can bring it all the way up to Ft. Collins and I can test it on my capacitor meter...Will testing just the resistance tell me enough? I thought I needed something more than a multi meter to know for sure.

TT5.0
Mon Aug 3rd, 2009, 04:02 PM
Basic resistance test will tell you if it's shorted, but nothing else useful. You can test it with an oscilloscope and a resistor, but not many people have o-scopes lying around. You need to see how fast the voltage decays through a known resistance once power is removed from the cap.

I would look here to buy one:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/productIndex.shtml?operator=breadCrumbSearch&searchIndexId=2&originalValue=Capacitors

If you search those results with the word "start" , then you should get only the motor start capacitors with the high capacitance values that you need.

Filo
Mon Aug 3rd, 2009, 04:21 PM
Will testing just the resistance tell me enough? I thought I needed something more than a multi meter to know for sure.

For your application you just want to know if the thing is good or not. You don't really care what the value is, since it is just the startup cap (right?). If the cap has failed, it is probably shorted. If you don't see answers in the MOhm range and instead get Ohm or KOhms, the cap is caput. Also, if it is an open circuit, your ohmeter should be able to detect that too. If you want to know the actual value of the cap, you need something fancy. If you want to test if the part has suffered a catastrophic failure, an ohmeter should be enough.

TT5.0
Mon Aug 3rd, 2009, 04:26 PM
For your application you just want to know if the thing is good or not. You don't really care what the value is, since it is just the startup cap (right?). If the cap has failed, it is probably shorted. If you don't see answers in the MOhm range and instead get Ohm or KOhms, the cap is caput. Also, if it is an open circuit, your ohmeter should be able to detect that too. If you want to know the actual value of the cap, you need something fancy. If you want to test if the part has suffered a catastrophic failure, an ohmeter should be enough.

A good cap may show as an open circuit on a DMM, in fact it should show open or a very high resistance. Make sure that you test the cap out of circuit with the meter. The only thing a DMM can tell you about a capacitor is if it's shorted, and caps don't always fail shorted.

Mother Goose
Mon Aug 3rd, 2009, 04:41 PM
They have them on Amazon. (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001M5PTQM/ref=asc_df_B001M5PTQM871677?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag=googlecom09c9-20&linkCode=asn&creative=380341&creativeASIN=B001M5PTQM)





Wait.... :think:

Filo
Mon Aug 3rd, 2009, 04:48 PM
A good cap may show as an open circuit on a DMM, in fact it should show open or a very high resistance. Make sure that you test the cap out of circuit with the meter. The only thing a DMM can tell you about a capacitor is if it's shorted, and caps don't always fail shorted.

Take a DMM (say a Fluke 87). Make sure it is on Ohm measurement and it is autoranging. Put it on a discharged 3300uF cap. The meter puts out a small current and measures the voltage to calculate the resistance. The cap starts at 0V. As the cap charges, the current changes (since I=c dv/dt), resulting in a changing value of resistance. The resistance will start very low and build up until the cap is charged up to the multimeters top value of voltage (usually around 1V). At this point, if the capacitor is an electrolytic, you will measure the leakage through the electrolytic if your DMM is good enough. Not only am I sure that you will see what I just described, I just went into the lab and tested it to be sure. You can also then go back and measure the residual voltage left on the cap from the measuring process with your DMM. It should be around 1V.

Bueller
Mon Aug 3rd, 2009, 05:23 PM
http://www.wikihow.com/Check-a-Start-Capacitor

Kim-n-Dean
Mon Aug 3rd, 2009, 05:58 PM
I'm getting ready to pull everything apart and start testing. What about testing the motor? Is there a way to spin up the motor without the cap, to see if the motor is actually the cause?

pannetron
Mon Aug 3rd, 2009, 06:47 PM
I would bet the capacitor is bad. They essentially open up (aka no or low capacitance) so an ohmmeter won't tell you a thing. Since the motor hums and pops a breaker after a bit, sounds to me like its windings are OK. Try replacing the cap. You might be able to find one at a furnace or HVAC shop since the blower motors on furnaces/AC systems usually have a starting capacitor. HTH.

TT5.0
Tue Aug 4th, 2009, 10:56 AM
Cool stuff Filo and Bueller. I actually learned something today, lol. I guess I'm too used to having scope access and dealing with caps smaller than 10uF.

Kim-n-Dean
Tue Aug 4th, 2009, 11:02 AM
Does anyone know how to test the motor without the start cap? Or, know of a place where I can get it tested?

DavidofColorado
Tue Aug 4th, 2009, 11:06 AM
Does anyone know how to test the motor without the start cap? Or, know of a place where I can get it tested?
It sounds like it would start spinning if you took the load off of it.

Foolds
Tue Aug 4th, 2009, 11:07 AM
Like I said go buy one at grangers and try replacing it. Thats the easiest and cheapest way to test it. if you buy a new motor you would need a new cap any how so there is no real loss. Cap's are cheap.

Filo
Tue Aug 4th, 2009, 11:17 AM
Does anyone know how to test the motor without the start cap? Or, know of a place where I can get it tested?

If the motor doesn't spin, it is tough to trouble shoot with home tools. The start cap is just there to connect another winding (out of alignment with the others) in to add a little startup torque. You should be able to spin the shaft by hand and connect the motor up and have it work. Depending on the type of motor, the extra winding may stay connected after the motor starts. If this is the case, your motor might run a little rough without the cap in place.

You might try a place like Granger that sells that sort of thing. See if they have a motor test setup like those auto parts places do. Hell, you may even be able to get the auto parts places to test it, if you can find specs on what it is supposed to look like.

Kim-n-Dean
Tue Aug 4th, 2009, 11:36 AM
... Hell, you may even be able to get the auto parts places to test it, if you can find specs on what it is supposed to look like.Yeah, I'm calling electronic supply places now. No way would I let any of those monkeys at an auto parts store mess with it. They can barely hook up an alternator with the correct plug. And that's with the diagram and adapters in front of them!! I usually have to hook it up for them!!

Starters baffle them too:

Me: You going to clamp that down?
Monkey: Nah, it'll be fine.
Me: I'm pretty sure it's gonna take off when you juice it up.

Monkey hits the switch. Starter torque rolls off the counter and falls three feet to the floor.

Me: Well... it looks like it's okay, but you owe me a new one now. See this nice dent in the housing?!? Oh, and the bendix is jammed now too!!

DavidofColorado
Tue Aug 4th, 2009, 12:23 PM
You still ask for help! I just go in and start using it. And when they ask if they can help. I tell em I'm fine I'm just saving time.