General Maintenance Rules You Should Always Follow

[bornwildnfree]

My bike has been having problems with the rear sprocket, the chain, the front sprocket and losing power. I just found out that I should always change the chain if I change one or both sprockets and I consider changing out both sprockets at the same time. This knowledge would have saved me two rear sprockets and a chain this year as well as a left hand push clutch rod. I also know I should consider changing the front and rear tire out at the same time although that one is not set in stone. You should bleed your breaks at least once a year or when the fluid gets dark. You should change your oil every 3-5000 miles. You should lube your chain every 200 mi. You should check your tire pressure at least once a week.


So, what else should I know about changing parts out on the bike?

[Sully]

:wtf:... Did you change out the chain and sprockets yourself or did someone do it for you? It sucks but if you don't know what you're doing, ask for help or take it to a shop. Sometimes friends don't always know wtf they're doing, imo.

Don't forget to CLEAN your chain as well as lube it. And make sure it's not in gear while on the stand :bigeyes:

[OUTLAWD]

I check the pressure every time I get on the bike.
I lube the cables once a year or as I deem necessary
I change fork oil at least once a year
I lube the chain every 500 miles, or after I get caught in the rain (chain on the triumph lasted 27k miles like this)
Change plugs and fuel filter at manufacturer recomended mileage
clean air filter twice a year
adjust clutch as necessary
I normally run through the entire bike at the begining of the season to check for loose bolts

EDIT: and sometimes shops don't know WTF they are doing, which is why I do all the work I possibly can...and I sometimes lube my bike while in gear :p

[Ricky]

You cannot learn everything you need to know, without failure.

[asp_125]

I need to plan a maintenance weekend .. or two.. when it snows. :p

[MetaLord 9]

I do all the work I possibly can...


You cannot learn everything you need to know, without failure.
This.

Ask me about fork seals... :facepalm:

[Bueller]

Unfortunate that you didn't see that posted anywhere, next to the always wear your gear mantra, that is probably in second place. Maybe a search didn't turn it up due to the thread titles being so vague.

[asp_125]

You should always use a front stand with some secondary means of support, like a rear stand or ratchet straps.

You should always make sure the container catching the oil has more volume than the bike's oil capacity.

:facepalm:

[Matty]

You should always make sure the container catching the oil has more volume than the bike's oil capacity.

:facepalm:

Hahaha.... Whoops.

[MetaLord 9]

Duct tape makes a surprisingly passable gasket for an oil drain plug.
fixed.

[Matty]

fixed.

Teflon tape son. Get it right.

[MetaLord 9]

It was duct tape first, that's what got ya home

[Matty]

It was duct tape first, that's what got ya home

Ok now I'm confused. I don't remember using duct tape.

[MetaLord 9]

I thought you used duct tape to get home from dana's. If you used teflon tape afterwards, I don't remember

[bornwildnfree]

@Sully: I took it to a shop to have the rear sprocket and chain replaced as well as new tires all new fairings and a bunch of other work. I would have thought they would have told me after $1100 that I needed a damn new front sprocket. Oh well, lesson learned. I try and do all the work my self as much as possible but I figured they knew what they were doing and I wasn't comfortable messing with the chain. It's at TFOG now to see if there's any other damage to the bike before I order parts.

[Matty]

Nope... At first I thought I striped the drain plug. And I used Teflon tape to get to Dana's. Then we realized I cracked my oil pan. And then used some seal type of stuff and re- taped the plug with Teflon. No duct.

Anyways.... Back to the topic. You should always make sure your pinch bolts are tight on your front axle. Lol.

[Sleev]

always make sure your connecting your batter terminals to the right polarity. durr

[Cap'n Crunch]

.... drain your water wetter and replace with coolant before freezing temps.

[MetaLord 9]

^^That's a BIG one! Ask Player 2 & a handful of others about that one...


Oh and no one's mentioned the correct level for your blinker fluid yet...

[Jim_Vess]

... check the oil level when you check the tire pressure.

[OUTLAWD]

...bring a towel

[brennahm]

You should always...


...search before reposting.

[Spooph]

Thanks for posting the reminder Wild and Free!

And here are some suggestions most people don't know about:
Make sure to change out the air in your tires, for it gets stale and doesn't come up to operating temperature after 3 months...

If you transport gadgets on your bike, and you have a Fuel Injected moto, make sure to scan all gadgets with a virus scanner at least once a week, some new transmitative Java technologies are able to transfer the virus accrued by your mobile porn watching to the ECU and will result in inconsistent throttle response. This can usually be diagnosed by a short increase of horsepower and torque, unexpectedly, followed by a rapid decline in power.

I think somebody already mentioned the blinker fluid, don't want those bulbs going hay-wire...

I can't think of anymore... :P

[Bueller]

Gas that bitch out when in doubt. Breaks (brakes) are for pussies.

[CYCLE_MONKEY]

Don't ever Armor-All your tires or seat.

[CoRR]

Battery springs get weak or stretch out over time. You must check them every other ride. Replace when needed.

Muffler bearings need grease every 1k miles or they will seize and blow the head right off the engine.

Some newer bikes do not use blinker fluid, if you cant find the dipstick (between the bars and seat) Yours has a "BLINKER BELT" and they are known to fray or fall off completely.

Not on the bike but IMPORTANT as well.
At one point or another (mostly when the ladies are watching) The screw inside your helment will become loose. To fix this you must pull to the side, remove helment , and take a break. IF you can not find the screw inside put your head back inside your @$$ and look in there,it may have fallen out when you pulled to the side for that break.:321:

LOL

Now on to the real topic.
I check our bikes before each ride.
Oil
Chain/sprocket
Fuel
Coolant
Tires and pressure
Break Pads / Rotors
Then a general look / feel of bolts everywhere.
Lights (break blinkers Hi/lo beams
Horn

On 2 bikes (most of the time 3 bikes) It will take me all of 5 mins. While they warm to Op temp.

[TFOGGuys]

You should always take any advice you get over the internet with a grain of salt......

[Bueller]

You should always take any advice you get over the internet with a grain of salt......

Goes double for this forum :cyber:

[bornwildnfree]

You should always...


...search before reposting.
Do you know how much time that takes? It's way easier to just post and listen to you whine about no one searching before they post.

[Spiderman]

Don't forget to CLEAN your chain as well as lube it. And make sure it's not in gear while on the stand :bigeyes:
What did you mean by the 2nd sentence - were you referring to ever (ie: when parked), or only when cleaning the chain?

[CYCLE_MONKEY]

:wtf:... Did you change out the chain and sprockets yourself or did someone do it for you? It sucks but if you don't know what you're doing, ask for help or take it to a shop. Sometimes friends don't always know wtf they're doing, imo.

Don't forget to CLEAN your chain as well as lube it. And make sure it's not in gear while on the stand :bigeyes:
Well, the one and ONLY time I actually cleaned my chain with kerosene, as recommended, the chain self-destructed 1k miles later. I'll never do THAT again. Oh, and NEVER use WD-40 on your chain. That's a light, penetrating/cutting (for machining metal removal!) oil that's not rated for the extreme shock and pressure loads and will actually remove the lube inside your o-ring seal. I'd use ONLY a lube specifically designed for chains. What I do, is spin the rear tire by HAND while on the stand, put a really heavy coating of lube on the chain, and wipe off the excess. That cleans and lubes it without losing the lube in the o-rings. Do whatever, but I've been getting about 20-25k on my chains. ;)

[Spiderman]

... and I consider changing out both sprockets at the same time.Did you mean "... and I should consider changing out both sprockets at the same time"? I'm guessing you did, cuz that makes sense to me, but just wanted to make sure.


I also know I should consider changing the front and rear tire out at the same time although that one is not set in stone.That's the first I've heard that one, but I could be wrong (being the cheap-skate that I am, I certainly never looked for ways to spend more money on the bike).


You should bleed your breaks at least once a year or when the fluid gets dark.I think you mean you should change your brake fluid every year (bleeding is merely part of that process, but can sometimes also be necessary as a separate step if the brakes weren't bled properly initially, and air bubbles have caused the brakes to become "mushy"). FWIW, your owners manual should include a Periodic Maintenance Chart which should list the intervals at which these things should be done. For my R1, the brake fluid should be changed every 2 years... :oops: Last time I changed mine was Oct. of 2006.


You should change your oil every 3-5000 miles. Sounds about right. I didn't know the specific numbers for my R1, and since I was already looking at the Periodic Maintenance Chart in my owners manual, I now know that it's every 4000 miles, with the filter change only every 8000.


You should lube your chain every 200 mi.This sounds a little too short. Check the Periodic Maintenance Chart for your bike. For my R1, they recommend lubing the chain every 600 miles (or after riding in the rain or washing the bike).