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McVaaahhh
Sun Dec 12th, 2010, 11:39 AM
Anybody know anything about fixing radon issues, or can recommend somebody?

Thanks,
Brian
Kim-n-Dean
Mon Dec 13th, 2010, 10:18 AM
Is your basement floor structural or slab? If it's structural, I'm surprised you don't already have a radon fan. If it's slab, it's a little more difficult, but can still be installed.

Here's maybe a start for ya...http://www.cdph.ca.gov/HealthInfo/environhealth/Pages/RadonFix.aspx
TinkerinWstuff
Mon Dec 13th, 2010, 11:25 AM
Didn't think Radon was prevalent around here?
McVaaahhh
Mon Dec 13th, 2010, 11:35 AM
Is your basement floor structural or slab? If it's structural, I'm surprised you don't already have a radon fan. If it's slab, it's a little more difficult, but can still be installed.

Here's maybe a start for ya...http://www.cdph.ca.gov/HealthInfo/environhealth/Pages/RadonFix.aspx

It's a slab.



Didn't think Radon was prevalent around here?

According to my realtor, it's very much a problem.
TinkerinWstuff
Mon Dec 13th, 2010, 12:01 PM
So have you sent in a Radon test kit yet?

As I understand it, even in areas where it's common, it doesn't mean that every house is affected. I have a test kit here I brought from my old house in WI but have yet to use. Guess I should bust it out and give it a try.
McVaaahhh
Mon Dec 13th, 2010, 01:05 PM
Yeah, it can vary big time between houses on the same street. Sucks that mine is one in the high category...
TinkerinWstuff
Mon Dec 13th, 2010, 01:19 PM
am curious; do you know if a house that measures high will always be high and a house that measures low will always be low? Can it change over the course of a decade?

If it's high, I'm not asking if it makes sense to wait and see if it goes down. I'm curious if a property measures low if you need to retest at some point?
asp_125
Mon Dec 13th, 2010, 01:33 PM
Even if it's low it's almost a given that realtors and potential buyers will ask for a Radon test these days. My old house was within acceptable limits 10yrs ago but was high when I sold it last year. :dunno: But I knocked $1000 off the asking price and made it go away.
Connman
Mon Dec 13th, 2010, 09:08 PM
Coming from the midwest and owning properties there, I'm well versed in radon mitigation.
Radon was a problem for me there as my house was along the Wabash river. Shale and sandstone are big time producers of radon gas. One house I bought didn't have any mitigation system and I had the seller pay $700 to have one installed. It's not out of the question to do it yourself though for a few hundred bucks and a Saturday.

Radon is about 9 times heavier than air, so it's going to reside in a basement if there is one. Most basements have a flood drain or a sump pit - since this is the lowest point of the house, it's where the highest concentration of radon will reside. Basically, a to build "radon mitigation system" you just need some 3-4" pvc pipe and an enclosed weatherproof 24/7 fan. Run the pipe from the lowest point of the house (drain/pit- assuming it's in a corner or along a wall) up past the block wall of the basement and then route the pipe outside. Run the electrical and attach a fan and a few feet of pipe with a rain cover on top of the open end of the pipe. The fan continually sucks out the problematic radon and voilą!, your house is mitigated!

Here's what the 'system' will look like. (you don't really need to take it past the roofline)
http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQE-X4Hg4E7w3q5jLkMcwSlCY4CrhLrOEVyxwzwZzliuIZB9vKalQ
wankel7
Tue Dec 14th, 2010, 05:11 PM
Ames Radon installed my system. I'm really happy with the work he did and would recommend him.

http://www.aamesradon.com/
dapper
Wed Dec 15th, 2010, 07:06 AM
Here's what the 'system' will look like. (you don't really need to take it past the roofline)
http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQE-X4Hg4E7w3q5jLkMcwSlCY4CrhLrOEVyxwzwZzliuIZB9vKalQ
This picture is a guide only. A engineer didn't draw this pic...maybe an Architect who wanted pretty over everything else.

The duct discharge, (termination) should be with a goose neck, (135 deg) fitting to avoid items entering the discharge, (vertical applications). The fan should be one of the Fantech (http://residential.fantech.net/residential-products/radon-mitigation/) plug types. Proper installation of the fan would have 3 duct diameters before and after the fan prior to any 45 or 90 degree fitting. This helps the performance of the fan while reducing the static pressure. (4" dia would have a minimum of 12" before/after the fan.) :D