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675Rider
Tue Jan 4th, 2011, 01:34 AM
Any recommendations for replacement brake pads. Going on my track bike. Thanks!

dragos13
Tue Jan 4th, 2011, 06:07 AM
Personally, I have had great success with OEM pads on my R6.

I used to spend a bunch of money on performance pads, then a racer taught me the concept of braking "lighter longer". I then realized that you don't need a ton of bite as long as your master and fluid is in good condition.

Just my $.02

rybo
Tue Jan 4th, 2011, 06:36 AM
I'm a really big fan of the performance friction pads. Their #95 pad is what I use on my racebike. They last a long time and offer great feel at the lever.

Joe (jplracing on here) sells them and I recommend them highly.

Sean
Tue Jan 4th, 2011, 07:29 AM
Here's a thread from 09 that has some solid info in it.
http://www.cosportbikeclub.org/forums/showpost.php?p=468224&postcount=4 (http://www.cosportbikeclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=32841&highlight=brake+pads)

675Rider
Tue Jan 4th, 2011, 08:02 AM
Thanks for the input. Last trackday I did I noticed alot of guys riding around the pits applying the brakes, releasing, etc.. They warming up the brakes??

asp_125
Tue Jan 4th, 2011, 08:06 AM
Thanks for the input. Last trackday I did I noticed alot of guys riding around the pits applying the brakes, releasing, etc.. They warming up the brakes??

More likely bedding in new pads. Just braking at "pit" speeds won't heat them up too much

vort3xr6
Tue Jan 4th, 2011, 08:20 AM
I run Ferodo's from 303 Cycle. They offer great initial bite, and ZERO fade when you run into a turn a little hot. They have decent life to them for a high performance pad.

Call up David or Wade at 303 and they will give you the full scoop.

dragos13
Tue Jan 4th, 2011, 08:26 AM
Thanks for the input. Last trackday I did I noticed alot of guys riding around the pits applying the brakes, releasing, etc.. They warming up the brakes??

Yes they are getting temp into the pads to avoid glazing. When you go out on cold pads and start hitting the brakes really hard, the pads can glaze over. You will see guys with the throttle set, and continuosly applying and releasing brake pressure while heading up to pre-grid.

The other option would be to head out and take it easy on the brakes for the first portion of your lap.

Graphite675
Tue Jan 4th, 2011, 08:43 AM
Stock Triumph pads are actually pretty darn good (but a little pricey). I have run EBC's with pretty good luck and am currently running Carbone Lorraine XBK5 pads which have been working pretty well. Nice progressive brakeing and no surprises.

.

konichd
Tue Jan 4th, 2011, 09:17 AM
Ferodo STAC's (aggressive track days) or XRAC's and CP2.11's (race pad). Ferodo makes @ 90% of the OEM pads FYI. We carry a lot of the Ferodo's in stock and prices are very competitive, if not better, than other brands out there. Both Pads have Ferodo's Array Cooling Technology, high initial friction, but user friendly torque characteristics to off late braking consistency. These pads also produce about 20% less disc wear than others currently available on the market. Ferodo has been around since 1897 and is the choice of many WSBK teams as well as some rotor manufacturer's (Brake Tech).

asp_125
Tue Jan 4th, 2011, 10:31 AM
I've got STACs on my street bike and track bike. Nice consistent feel all day long.

usmcab35
Tue Jan 4th, 2011, 11:37 AM
ebc hh pads are awesome, they stop my hayabusa way better than stock. and not to spendy either.

BadR6Man
Sun Jan 30th, 2011, 09:01 AM
You should really try Vesrah race pads. They are like night and day over OEM and EBC HH. Alot of us used them on the east coast. They provide alot much more stopping power without locking up the front wheel. And yes, they will work on the street also.

OUTLAWD
Sun Jan 30th, 2011, 11:45 AM
I've run EBC HH and Ferodo HH on my street and track bikes...I honestly think more improvements can be realized with keeping up with flushing the fluid and honing the rotors every now and then, as well as the aforementioned practices to reduce the chance of glazing.

different pads offer a different feel, and that is something that is more of a preference issue

usmcab35
Tue Feb 1st, 2011, 09:08 AM
were can we get rotors honed?

UglyDogRacing
Tue Feb 1st, 2011, 09:33 AM
were can we get rotors honed?

buy a brake rotor hone. they are not very expensive.

OUTLAWD
Tue Feb 1st, 2011, 09:46 AM
were can we get rotors honed?


IIRC 303 had them in stock
http://www.denlorstools.com/shop/images/BRMRMFH240Z25_Flex_Hone_lg.jpg

usmcab35
Tue Feb 1st, 2011, 09:48 AM
sweet thanks..

hcr25
Tue Feb 1st, 2011, 10:00 AM
When compairing brake pads it is very much like tires. Personal preference should be the determining factor. Do you like the aggressive bite at first, how long they last, feedback from the pads? Some pads make noise some dont. Cost, most of us are cheap so this could be a factor.
In my opinion no one brake pad does everything the best. I have used every popular race pad sometime during the last 15 years i have raced. I am using EBC now because I like the initial bite, how aggressive they are when new. That being said I use alot of pads. I have used Ferodo recently and liked them very much.
If someone says this pad is the best, how are they coming to that conculsion? Did they try every pad back to back with fresh clean rotors and brake fluid?

The internet is full of experts on things they know little about. Try what a friend is using and go from there.
mike

UglyDogRacing
Tue Feb 1st, 2011, 10:09 AM
You can order through Sears, Amazon, etc

http://www.braketech.com/images/stories/btrh-10pix.09.jpg

usmcab35
Tue Feb 1st, 2011, 10:54 AM
do that thing just rough up the disks a little?

UglyDogRacing
Tue Feb 1st, 2011, 11:09 AM
do that thing just rough up the disks a little?

Here's the description-

Removes old friction material deposition layers quickly and easily, allows new pads to
quickly bed-in properly for maximum performance potential.
• Ten seconds of forward and reverse rotation transfers the recommended OEM circular
style cross-hatch pattern to brake rotors, perfect every time.
• Specially positioned Aluminum Oxide balls re-condition rotor surface and remove glaze,
the prime cause of friction induced brake noise.
• Honing lowers harmonic vibrations created by surface irregularities and uneven
deposition layers, thus reducing annoying high pitched squeal & groan.
• Removes old burnished surface to new, addresses issues related to brake judder and
vibration.
• Forget sandpaper or Scotch-Brite pads, they won’t clean and prep the rotor correctly
anyway. Plus... the Rotor Hone can last for years!

usmcab35
Tue Feb 1st, 2011, 11:10 AM
thanks for the info!

675Rider
Wed Feb 2nd, 2011, 05:58 AM
Thats why I asked all my friends of the CSC. Thanks for all the awesome info everyone!

FZRguy
Wed Feb 2nd, 2011, 10:20 PM
I see those rotor hones come in diff grits. What grit do you use, Jim.

675Rider
Thu Apr 28th, 2011, 06:33 AM
On the subject of keeping fresh fluid and rotors. When or how often do you change your fluid? I have heard when it turns a dark brown, not the new amber brown.

As for rotors, I honestly dont know what to look for really, other than them having a glazed look.

Recommendations?

jbnwc
Thu Apr 28th, 2011, 06:56 AM
On the subject of keeping fresh fluid and rotors. When or how often do you change your fluid? I have heard when it turns a dark brown, not the new amber brown.

As for rotors, I honestly dont know what to look for really, other than them having a glazed look.

Recommendations?

I flush brake fluid at least every spring and then any time I notice the brake feel getting softer. You'd be surprised how much air gets into your lines.

dragos13
Thu Apr 28th, 2011, 07:05 AM
On the subject of keeping fresh fluid and rotors. When or how often do you change your fluid? I have heard when it turns a dark brown, not the new amber brown.

As for rotors, I honestly dont know what to look for really, other than them having a glazed look.

Recommendations?

Depends on the situation. Definitely don't wait for it to change color. At that point, the fluid is already bad and most likely you have developed air bubbles in the line due to the fluid heating and cooling over time.

On my race bike, I changed the fluid every other race weekend. I used Motorex fluid which is clear to begin with so it was always clear when it came out. If its a street bike, I say change the fluid atleast twice a season depending on how much and how hard you ride. Lets be honest, your front brakes are possibly the most important part on your machine. Take good care of them.

Rotors are fine unless you are changing pad types. I would run OEM pads and change them every race weekend and never hone the rotors. If you stick to the same pads and change often (meaning don't wait til all the material is gone) then you shouldn't have to hone the rotors. If you change pad types, then its best to hone off all the old material.

675Rider
Thu Apr 28th, 2011, 09:02 AM
Ok, good advice guys. Thanks! I will actually probably stick with the OEM pads. apparently Triumph didnt skimp on them, a little pricy but from my research most actually preferred them over any aftermarket ones.