Changing Brake Lines

[Riverdog]

I am going to be changing out my rubber brake lines to go with Stainless steel. It looks like a fairly straight forward deal, but before I dive into this one, are there any pit falls or don't I should be aware of before I switch them out. Being that I am dealing with the brakes, I would rather not learn about a simple mistake or screw up the hard way.
Thanks for any tips.

[Ricky]

Have lots of brake fluid. Otherwise, it's pretty simple.

[ghostrider_9]

Do you have a bleeder? It will save you a lot of time. It's not difficult, but it does take a few minutes. Also make sure you have a torque wrench and the torque specs for the fittings. They are a lot less than most people think. If you torque the too much they will mess up the threads\calipers\master cylinder. It would be wise to have a buddy that has done it before. When are you planning on doing this?

[UglyDogRacing]

Get one of these - http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MITMV8020-MIT6820-Brake-Bleeding/dp/B000FUMWTM

[ghostrider_9]

Get one of these - http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MITMV8020-MIT6820-Brake-Bleeding/dp/B000FUMWTM

+10000 - Or know someone who has one . . .

[Riverdog]

Thanks for the advice fellow riders. Lots of fluid, get bleeder, use torque wrench, and if available kidnap someone who has done it before. Alright sounds good. Now just have to wait for lines to arrive in mail.
Thanks again

[Ricky]

Or you can get one of those simple one-man bleeder kits. I bought one for like $8 at Napa a couple months ago. Flushed the brake system on my truck by myself. Don't get me wrong, the pump is nice, but there are other tools if you want to go cheap.

[OUTLAWD]

i got a mity-vac at harbor frieght for cheap...its a plastic body, but it has held up to my abuse so far. I use the vac bleeder to suck most of the air out and flush the fluid, then do it the old manual way to make sure all the air is out. Using the vac bleeder you can suck air in between the threads of the bleed screw if you aren't careful or make sure the threads are sealed.

[Bueller]

Long clear tube off bleeder screw to a catch can. Fill res, open screw at least a 3/4 turn, let gravity do it's thing, make sure to keep fluid in res, assist by pumping, don't tighten between pumps just make sure you don't suck air in the res by letting fluid get too low.
You will not suck air back in @ the bleeder with the drain tubing on there, without the added vacuum. When all the air comes out tighten bleeder screw then remove drain tube.
If all else fails take M/C off and hang it as close to vertical as possible, use a bungee or zip tie to hold lever in and leave over night, or if you are in a hurry start at caliper and lightly tap with a screwdriver handle or the like, working your way up to the M/C to try to move any air up and into the pump. Release the lever and tap on the M/C several times to bring the air into the res.

[tecknojoe]

I put rags down over my tires and paint in case of a spill. I've been told brake fluid can eat right though paint (luckily didn't spill any last year when I did it). Just make sure you get all the air bubbles out otherwise your brakes will be spongy

[Wrider]

I put rags down over my tires and paint in case of a spill. I've been told brake fluid can eat right though paint (luckily didn't spill any last year when I did it). Just make sure you get all the air bubbles out otherwise your brakes will be spongy

That it can for sure... It also makes tires as slick as snot...

[Riverdog]

Joe:
Attempted to send PM but not sure if it went through, so you may get it a few times or not at all. Anyways got your number and I will let you know when they arrive.
Thanks


I put rags down over my tires and paint in case of a spill. I've been told brake fluid can eat right though paint (luckily didn't spill any last year when I did it). Just make sure you get all the air bubbles out otherwise your brakes will be spongy