Let's do some math...

[vort3xr6]

THE PROBLEM:
The topic is gas prices. The problem is my truck.

First off, I need my truck to haul motorcycles. I sold the bus and now I NEED the truck.

After 6 months of tracking fill ups and changing driving habits, I know for a fact that my truck gets 13.5 MPG.

My commute from home to work then back home is exactly 27 miles.

Driving 5 times a week, I look at a minimum of 135 miles per week in commuting. Add on the miscellaneous driving miles for errands and I look at roughly 150 miles per week.

150 miles / 13.5 mpg = 11.1 gallons per week.
At the current gas price of $3.20, that amounts to $35 per week in gas, which amounts to about $140 per month in gas for the truck.

If the speculators who are speculatin' be correct, the gas prices could reach $4.50 to $5.00 mid summer. This is unsustainable for me.

THE OPTIONS:

Option 1: Buy a DRZ400SM.

Current prices on a DRZ run around $4,500. The DRZ gets on average 50 mpg even driving like a fool.

In the current scenario, 150 miles / 50 mpg = 3 gallons per week.
3 gal x $3.20 = $9 per week. Per month we are looking at a fuel cost of $36 dollars.

That is a savings over the truck of $104 per month. That means, it would take 45 months for the DRZ to pay for itself, assuming I get a ZERO interest loan which doesn't exist. However, you can only ride the DRZ for roughly 8 - 9 months out of the year in Denver. So I would be looking at 5-6 years of commuting in order to pay off my investment.

Option 2: Sell truck, buy older truck and older car

Option 3: Cry myself to sleep.

So the almighty CSC, what do you think? Should I suck it up and pay 75 bucks to fill up my tank, or go into more debt and pay 6 dollars to fill up my tank?

[UglyDogRacing]

Suck it up! I'm paying $120 right now to fill up. :slap:

[TransNone13]

I'm facing a similar problem. I have a 1500 which averages around 17MPG. I think I'm going to trade it in for something else, mid-size probably. I'm not quite sure what to do either... I'm inclined to do nothing and suck it up.

[Mother Goose]

I think you need to stop being a little bitch and ride the DRZ year round. :p 8-9 months my ass.

[httc84]

Not knowing your particulars, here are a couple of options.
1. Trade truck for something like a RAV4 (V6) and buy a trailer. These little toyotas get good gas mileage and have the oomphf to tow with. Friend of mine tows a small horse trailer with no issues.
2. Trade truck for smaller truck with room to haul bikes and better gas mileage.
3. Trade truck for old truck (something you can pick you for low cost) and put difference into fuel.

The new DRZ isn't a financially sound option. However, it is a very attractive option :-)

On the DRZ option, have you checked around for used? Or maybe just get a used DR?

[vort3xr6]

I think you need to stop being a little bitch and ride the DRZ year round. :p 8-9 months my ass.

lol. I can't always be as hardcore as you wicky. I could try.

[Zach929rr]

You can find a DRZ for more/less $3500 these days.


If the speculators who are speculatin'A++++ would laugh at again

[Joe]

Do not forget the extra insurance / registration / maintenance on the DRZ.
I've done the math a few times myself, and it is NOT cheaper to own a bike. Especially with your short commute. The best bet is to trade in on the smallest truck you need.

IF you do it... I would recommend a dirt-version. The tires are cheaper and you can save further money by changing the tires yourself.

Now...
If you want to include Psychologist bills and Anti-Depressants into the equation, then that DRZ is CHEAP.

[cptschlongenheimer]

This is how i became a rider...
Several years ago when my commute was 27 miles each way, I had a gas guzzler pickup and my buddy was selling his EX500 for cheap... bought it for a grand and saved enough that first year to pay for it.

My vote is go for a good condition used ride. If you spend ~$2k it'll pay off in two summers. I have a feeling that cheap gas is probably only a fond memory at this point....

[Kim-n-Dean]

We'll probably be sitting around this summer. Truck gets 14mpg at best and down to 7.5 when we hook up the fifth wheel. Diesel will most likely be $5.00/gal. or more...

[Ricky]

Don't forget the other expenses involved in purchasing a vehicle. Taxes, registration, plates, etc. That can really help jack up the cost, and make it not worth it.

I bought a Ninja 250 a few years back, and during the summer, it would pay for itself if I rode it every day. But that didn't include the additional expenses on top of payment. Tires, oil changes, etc. Don't forget monthly insurance costs. And, of course, you're putting fewer miles on the primary vehicle, which equals less maintenance there.

Based on $5.00/gal prices, you'll spend about $85/mo more, at $5 per gallon. If you can find something that will get you a bike or other gas sipper for $85/mo, I say it's worth it. That is, if gas prices actually go up to $5.

[CaneZach]

I did the math a while back when someone said they were going to buy a Prius in order to save $$$ on gas. Granted, the cost/benefit analysis is going to be different between a $30K Prius and a $4k DRZ, but let's take a look at it.

You're out going costs, not counting maintenance-related costs such as tires, oil changes, etc., are going to be daily/weekly/whatever cost of gas and the initial outlay for the bike.

Let's assume you're going to run mid-grade gas in your truck or DRZ and you get the gas for an average of $3.25 a gallon. In your truck, you average 13.5 MPG, or two gallons every workday going to and coming home from work. Since the 13.5 MPG average is based on a decent time-frame (6 mos), we can assume time spent idling in traffic is included. You spend roughly $6.50 to $7.00 in fuel costs everyday you go to work. Assuming you work 5 days a week, you're spending $32.50 to $35 a week in gas. Over the course of a year (assuming 50 work weeks to account for holidays, sick time, and any vacation), you're spending, at a MINIMUM, $1625 to $1750 a year on gas alone.

By comparison, the DRZ gets 50 MPG. To be safe, we'll lower the fuel efficiency to 45 MPG to account for any idling or aggressive use lol. You're commute is 27 miles, or 135 miles a week. That means you'll need 3 gallons of fuel a week, or about $10 a week in fuel. Over the same 50 weeks, you'll have spent a whopping $500, so you'll be spending about $1100 to $1200 less, which means you're bike will "pay for itself" somewhere between 3 years 4 months and 3 years 7 months.

I don't now what your registration costs are, but I can tell you your initial registration on the DRZ will likely be much higher than the continuing registration on the truck because you'll be paying for sales tax. Subsequent years will likely be lower because the ownership tax and registration you pay every year will be based on a lower taxable value, assuming your truck isn't a POS.

Insurance on the DRZ will be lower, as long as we're comparing full coverage to full coverage and liability to liability.

[bulldog]

Get a closer job! :lol:

[vort3xr6]

Not knowing your particulars, here are a couple of options.
1. Trade truck for something like a RAV4 (V6) and buy a trailer. These little toyotas get good gas mileage and have the oomphf to tow with. Friend of mine tows a small horse trailer with no issues.
2. Trade truck for smaller truck with room to haul bikes and better gas mileage.
3. Trade truck for old truck (something you can pick you for low cost) and put difference into fuel.

The new DRZ isn't a financially sound option. However, it is a very attractive option :-)

On the DRZ option, have you checked around for used? Or maybe just get a used DR?

I thought about the small SUV / trailer idea. Problem is those small SUV's still get about 19-20mpg, and for the same price as my truck, I would need to look at one with A LOT more mileage than I currently have on my Dakota (65k).


You can find a DRZ for more/less $3500 these days.

A++++ would laugh at again

DRZ's are in short supply right now. Where is that dude who has the tree in his backyard?


Do not forget the extra insurance / registration / maintenance on the DRZ.
I've done the math a few times myself, and it is NOT cheaper to own a bike. Especially with your short commute. The best bet is to trade in on the smallest truck you need.

IF you do it... I would recommend a dirt-version. The tires are cheaper and you can save further money by changing the tires yourself.

Now...
If you want to include Psychologist bills and Anti-Depressants into the equation, then that DRZ is CHEAP.

Talked with my insurance agent a few weeks ago and had him pull a quote on a DRZ for shats. $22 per month full coverage. Registration is about $65.


I did the math a while back when someone said they were going to buy a Prius in order to save $$$ on gas. Granted, the cost/benefit analysis is going to be different between a $30K Prius and a $4k DRZ, but let's take a look at it.

You're out going costs, not counting maintenance-related costs such as tires, oil changes, etc., are going to be daily/weekly/whatever cost of gas and the initial outlay for the bike.

Let's assume you're going to run mid-grade gas in your truck or DRZ and you get the gas for an average of $3.25 a gallon. In your truck, you average 13.5 MPG, or two gallons every workday going to and coming home from work. Since the 13.5 MPG average is based on a decent time-frame (6 mos), we can assume time spent idling in traffic is included. You spend roughly $6.50 to $7.00 in fuel costs everyday you go to work. Assuming you work 5 days a week, you're spending $32.50 to $35 a week in gas. Over the course of a year (assuming 50 work weeks to account for holidays, sick time, and any vacation), you're spending, at a MINIMUM, $1625 to $1750 a year on gas alone.

By comparison, the DRZ gets 50 MPG. To be safe, we'll lower the fuel efficiency to 45 MPG to account for any idling or aggressive use lol. You're commute is 27 miles, or 135 miles a week. That means you'll need 3 gallons of fuel a week, or about $10 a week in fuel. Over the same 50 weeks, you'll have spent a whopping $500, so you'll be spending about $1100 to $1200 less, which means you're bike will "pay for itself" somewhere between 3 years 4 months and 3 years 7 months.

I don't now what your registration costs are, but I can tell you your initial registration on the DRZ will likely be much higher than the continuing registration on the truck because you'll be paying for sales tax. Subsequent years will likely be lower because the ownership tax and registration you pay every year will be based on a lower taxable value, assuming your truck isn't a POS.

Insurance on the DRZ will be lower, as long as we're comparing full coverage to full coverage and liability to liability.

This is good math right there. I am also thinking on weekends and all the extra miles I would drive, and save there too. I think that time frame of paying for itself would come sooner than I think.


Get a closer job! :lol:

Jobs are harder to find than a DRZ right now. Plus I like my job.

[OUTLAWD]

that mileage will increase drastically once race season(s) start...


BUT...will you be content cruising around in the slow lane all season with a trailer behind your rollerskate? (no offense RAV4)

at 13.5 miles, I would even consider a pedal bike to commute on, even at 2-3 days a week you could save $40-80/month...

look onto getting an older streetbike...something you could pick up for ~$2000 and you could ride the same amount as a DRZ...my triumph gets 48-55 on the street, and the gixxer got 40-45 when it was a streetbike, hell, a 250 gets ~70+

[Mother Goose]

Talked with my insurance agent a few weeks ago and had him pull a quote on a DRZ for shats. $22 per month full coverage. Registration is about $65.
I think you need a new insurance dude. I'm paying $25/month for full coverage on the R1.

[Mother Goose]

look onto getting an older streetbike...something you could pick up for ~$2000 and you could ride the same amount as a DRZ...my triumph gets 48-55 on the street, and the gixxer got 40-45 when it was a streetbike, hell, a 250 gets ~70+
A Honda Ruckus gets 100mpg. :D I'd like to see Brad on one of those.

[vort3xr6]

that mileage will increase drastically once race season(s) start...


BUT...will you be content cruising around in the slow lane all season with a trailer behind your rollerskate? (no offense RAV4)

at 13.5 miles, I would even consider a pedal bike to commute on, even at 2-3 days a week you could save $40-80/month...

look onto getting an older streetbike...something you could pick up for ~$2000 and you could ride the same amount as a DRZ...my triumph gets 48-55 on the street, and the gixxer got 40-45 when it was a streetbike, hell, a 250 gets ~70+

True. Not sure how much I will be doing MRA this year. Plus if gas is 4.50 forget about it. I will be carpooling with Nik and Kia so trailer and fuel costs could be split there.

[bulldog]

I think you need a new insurance dude. I'm paying $25/month for full coverage on the R1. Don't forget Wicky.....you are old :lol:

[Ricky]

I pay $15/mo for the CBR and $10/mo for the WR, both full coverage and $250/$500 deductibles. $22/mo does sound kinda high.

[OUTLAWD]

get a miata...the mini could fit in the passenger seat


FWIW the gixxer is ~10/mo and the triumph is ~$20/mo

[TinkerinWstuff]

http://www3.drcog.org/RideArrangers/Page/carpool

http://www3.drcog.org/RideArrangers/Content/images/carpoolPhoto2.png


http://www.lakewood-co.worldweb.com/Transportation/PublicTransit/

http://www.rtd-denver.com/images/bus_subHome.jpg

[Mother Goose]

Don't forget Wicky.....you are old :lol:
True.... now where did I put that Bengay?

[TurboGizzmo]

I think i am the only one that traded in my....dare i say....Prius to get a different car to lower my monthly payments.

Car payment > gas savings

[salsashark]

Car payment > gas savings

+1

I don't care how much gas savings I would get if I traded in my Ram. It still wouldn't equal a car payment!

[JonnyD]

I ended up with the Superhawk for this reason, $400/mo gas when it was $4/gal. Over the 3 years (I bought the hawk new) I calculated that having the bike cost me $100/mo. This was counting EVERYTHING. $100/mo to ride a motorcycle = WELL worth it!

I'm currently looking at the new Brammo and will make the final decision when it finally comes out. But ~$.01/mi is really looking attractive, and with government incentives I think the bike will be about $5k.

[Kim-n-Dean]

I think you need a new insurance dude. I'm paying $25/month for full coverage on the R1.No doubt!! We pay $12 & $15/mo. for full coverage, but like Nate said, we're ooooold!!

[bulldog]

True.... now where did I put that Bengay? I keep mine right next to my heating pad and Aspirin :lol:

[vort3xr6]

Whats funny is that the gas savings would ALMOST equal the monthly payment on the loan. In essence, there would be a 20 dollar difference.

[Mother Goose]

Whats funny is that the gas savings would ALMOST equal the monthly payment on the loan. In essence, there would be a 20 dollar difference.
That's 2 lunches a week at Smash Burger!

[Zach929rr]

Paging Patrick with another DRZ SM for sale.

[rybo]

Brad,

Last summer I found a Geo Metro for $1000. The car gets 53 MPG. In your current scenario it would take 10 months to pay for the metro.

I drive a lot more than you, I budgeted $1500 total for car / improvements / first year insurance. I came in under budget and the car paid for itself in under 3 months.

I can't say it's the most fun to drive, but I do giggle a little every time I fill the thing up for $25 and then drive for what seems like foreeeeeever before I have to fill it up again. It's noisy inside, but does well in the snow and will manage 80MPH on the higway pretty easily. Big hills slow it down a bit as do strong winds.

3 cylinders / carb / 12" tires - maintenance on the thing is stupid cheap. I'm coming up on having to do a timing belt, but the engine compartment is wide open and the timing belt cover is a cinch to get to, so that should only take a few hours and the price of the parts.

Overall I've been very happy with the decision and would repeat it in a heartbeat.

s

[MetaLord 9]

Just get a Ninja 250 or 500 for half the perceived price on a DRZ. If it's just a commuter, then you don't need to go stupid fast. 250's & 500's run $1500-$2500.

Ride in the winter. There have been less than three work weeks total that I have been been unable to ride a bike to work.

[vort3xr6]

Paging Patrick with another DRZ SM for sale.

I need to consult a certain person who lives with me first. I have a feeling she won't see the logic the same as me.

[vort3xr6]

Brad,

Last summer I found a Geo Metro for $1000. The car gets 53 MPG. In your current scenario it would take 10 months to pay for the metro.

I drive a lot more than you, I budgeted $1500 total for car / improvements / first year insurance. I came in under budget and the car paid for itself in under 3 months.

I can't say it's the most fun to drive, but I do giggle a little every time I fill the thing up for $25 and then drive for what seems like foreeeeeever before I have to fill it up again. It's noisy inside, but does well in the snow and will manage 80MPH on the higway pretty easily. Big hills slow it down a bit as do strong winds.

3 cylinders / carb / 12" tires - maintenance on the thing is stupid cheap. I'm coming up on having to do a timing belt, but the engine compartment is wide open and the timing belt cover is a cinch to get to, so that should only take a few hours and the price of the parts.

Overall I've been very happy with the decision and would repeat it in a heartbeat.

s


Just get a Ninja 250 or 500 for half the perceived price on a DRZ. If it's just a commuter, then you don't need to go stupid fast. 250's & 500's run $1500-$2500.

Ride in the winter. There have been less than three work weeks total that I have been been unable to ride a bike to work.

I am reviewing both these options as well. A car will most likely be more insurance and registration than the bike, but it depends on the car. Then again, I would have problems with parking the car. My HOA doesn't allow me to take up too many spaces.

[rybo]

Also,

I'm pretty sure that my Geo is worth the same amount today (or more) than the day I bought it. I know you know this business better than I do, but the market for inexpensive reliable cars is MUCH larger that that for cheap old motorcycles.

[Snowman]

two words... Mass Transit

[TinkerinWstuff]

two words... Mass Transit

I guess I wasn't ignored then

[TinkerinWstuff]

My commute from home to work then back home is exactly 27 miles.

THE OPTIONS:

Option 1: the bus

Option 2: A bicycle - a couple hundred bucks and I get in shape


http://www.2dayblog.com/images/2006_december/brad_bicycle.jpg

[vort3xr6]

http://www.2dayblog.com/images/2006_december/brad_bicycle.jpg

it would take me 4 hours to commute to work on that thing lol.

The bus is an idea, but I need a vehicle during work occasionally. There are times when I need to go to one of the Dealerships.

[sprtbkbabe]

Yep, I'm bicycling to/from work 12 miles each way 3 days a week, taking only a little over an hour. Otherwise, the RSVR, which only get 32mpg, gets ridden in.

When the Suburban Assault Vehicle only gets 18mpg, I would rather get in shape

[TinkerinWstuff]

it would take me 4 hours to commute to work on that thing lol.


Probably high on torque and low on HP like every other cruiser out there.

[Snowman]

My Blackbird gets 35 mpg in the city when I ride it like an over confidant 20 year old with adrenalin issues.

[bulldog]

Someone may have already mentioned, but have you tried carpooling? Websites out there so you can meet up with others near your work.

I think the real purpose of this thread is to give vort3xr6 some good excuses to give to his wife on why he NEEDS a new motorcycle :lol:

[salsashark]

two words... Mass Transit

:lol: not always a viable option...

http://www.rtd-denver.com/BusFares.shtml
$79/month for local pass
$140/month for express pass
$176/month for regional pass

For me, it would be 80/month.

Doing some quick querilla excel tricks, it comes out to cost me in gas/insurance/registration less to ride my bike 85% of the year and truck it the remaining 15%.

What this doesn't take into account is the time it takes to take mass transit.

My average commute is around 10-15 minutes. So in order to get to work by 6:30, I normally leave the house around 6:10-6:15.

To take the bus increases my commute time by 10X. According to RTD's site, it would take over an hour to cover 7 miles. No thanks!

[Devaclis]

I think you need to stop being a little bitch and ride the DRZ year round. :p 8-9 months my ass.

You are 100% correct Wickmeister.

PLUS, I get nowhere NEAR 50 MPG on the DRZ. I average about 35 MPG. That is based on over 20k miles of riding it with different tires, sprockets, cargo, and road conditions. It is jetted for 6k-9k feet with a JD jet kit.

[OUTLAWD]

I think the real purpose of this thread is to give vort3xr6 some good excuses to give to his wife on why he NEEDS a new motorcycle :lol:

nothing wrong with that ;)

[McVaaahhh]

Why the DRZ? If you're only looking to save money than there are many more viable options.

I bought my KLR for $1100 and got 50mpg out of it. Not a DRZ, but still fun as all hell.

[Joe]

... on the DRZ. I average about 35 MPG.

Dude, something is wrong....
after 120 miles at PMP, my MPG dropped down to high 50's. That's the lowest I've seen. Other than that I have been averaging 70 over my 14,000 miles. (I have a spreadsheet)

I hyper-miled for 2 tanks and averaged 80mpg, just to see if I could.

--EDIT--
CRAP, I wasted my 200th post replying to Dana!

[Wrider]

I'm assuming you have a 4x4 4.7 quad cab Dakota with those MPG figures? I drive fairly hard with my 4x4 4.7 club cab and get an average of 14.9 MPGs. If you want to upgrade the MPGs on the truck, spend a little money, get a Superchips tuner, put on a cold air intake, and cut out the third cat (can't do third one if you have to do emissions) and from what I've been hearing it should pop it up to about 17-18 MPG.

[TinkerinWstuff]

Dude, something is wrong....
after 120 miles at PMP, my MPG dropped down to high 50's. That's the lowest I've seen. Other than that I have been averaging 70 over my 14,000 miles. (I have a spreadsheet)

I hyper-miled for 2 tanks and averaged 80mpg, just to see if I could.

--EDIT--
CRAP, I wasted my 200th post replying to Dana!

No kidding. I get 50mpg out of my DR650.

I even get 40mpg out of my VFR750 if I drive like a law abiding adult.

[Devaclis]

Dude, something is wrong....
after 120 miles at PMP, my MPG dropped down to high 50's. That's the lowest I've seen. Other than that I have been averaging 70 over my 14,000 miles. (I have a spreadsheet)

I hyper-miled for 2 tanks and averaged 80mpg, just to see if I could.

--EDIT--
CRAP, I wasted my 200th post replying to Dana!

It will be going to Eddie soon for some work to diag the poor mileage.

[Sean]

$1500
http://boulder.craigslist.org/mcy/2231115951.html

[The Black Knight]

THE PROBLEM:
The topic is gas prices. The problem is my truck.

First off, I need my truck to haul motorcycles. I sold the bus and now I NEED the truck.

After 6 months of tracking fill ups and changing driving habits, I know for a fact that my truck gets 13.5 MPG.

My commute from home to work then back home is exactly 27 miles.

Driving 5 times a week, I look at a minimum of 135 miles per week in commuting. Add on the miscellaneous driving miles for errands and I look at roughly 150 miles per week.

150 miles / 13.5 mpg = 11.1 gallons per week.
At the current gas price of $3.20, that amounts to $35 per week in gas, which amounts to about $140 per month in gas for the truck.

If the speculators who are speculatin' be correct, the gas prices could reach $4.50 to $5.00 mid summer. This is unsustainable for me.

THE OPTIONS:

Option 1: Buy a DRZ400SM.

Current prices on a DRZ run around $4,500. The DRZ gets on average 50 mpg even driving like a fool.

In the current scenario, 150 miles / 50 mpg = 3 gallons per week.
3 gal x $3.20 = $9 per week. Per month we are looking at a fuel cost of $36 dollars.

That is a savings over the truck of $104 per month. That means, it would take 45 months for the DRZ to pay for itself, assuming I get a ZERO interest loan which doesn't exist. However, you can only ride the DRZ for roughly 8 - 9 months out of the year in Denver. So I would be looking at 5-6 years of commuting in order to pay off my investment.

Option 2: Sell truck, buy older truck and older car

Option 3: Cry myself to sleep.

So the almighty CSC, what do you think? Should I suck it up and pay 75 bucks to fill up my tank, or go into more debt and pay 6 dollars to fill up my tank?
My advice?? Is keep your truck and just live with it. And be content that gasoline right now is floating between $3.00 - $3.15(here in the Springs anyways) and that it's creeping up fairly slow. When I say slow, I'm saying I saw gas rise about .10 cents in the last week. I wish Diesel would only go up .10 cents. A week an a half ago, I paid $3.28 for diesel and this week it's already at $3.70(in some locations)!!! That's damn near .50 cents!!

But I can't complain, I have to live with it. I do find it funny that a 1 ton dually can get better fuel mileage than most 1/2 tons. I regularly see 15-16mpg in town. Highway is 20+mpg's. I know I'll never get as good of mileage like my 2500 Cummins got, but that has to do with the dually, so I live with it.

I say try and snag an inexpensive motorcycle. I would recommend looking into cruisers man. Before I found my Sportster, I was checking into older Vulcans and Viragos. And you can find em, for great deals. Vulcans were a little higher, as most Viragos tended to be late 80's early 90's. I settled on the Sportster, because of it's age and the smokin deal I got on it. But I sold my Gixxer to pay for it, so it was a wash.

However, in town I always get 50+mpg's from a 1200. If I ride it like a grandpa, I've seen as high as 55mpg in town. Riding it normal(i.e. keeping pace with traffic or riding a little quicker) I always get right at 51mpg.

And say what you want about it being a "Hardley" but no sportbike I ever had managed those kind of MPG's in town. I got my Gixxer to give me about 50mpg on the highway but in town, I was lucky to see 37-38mpg's. Most the time, I was at 35mpg. Which ain't nothin to sneeze at but it ain't up there with a V-twin. And if they are saying fuel is going to go past $4.00, then as soon as it's warm enough, I'll be on the bike and I'm parking my big ass Cummins.

And before I get clowned by some for saying "as soon as it's warm enough", keep in mind that I go to work very early, have a long enough commute, that anything below 40 degrees gets me cold and quick.

And I admit it, I'm not going to freeze my ass, when I've got a truck with a heater in it that will burn you out of the cab. I don't need to save fuel that much. I'd rather be a little lighter in the wallet and warm, than saving as much as I can, all while being an ice cube.

IN the end, keep your truck and I'd recommend a cruiser. That's if your ego can handle riding a cruiser. :)

[modette99]

..

[Dietrich_R1]

Getting another vehicle doesn't sound like the correct combination...

GO GHETTO like me!!!!!!

1) 01' Honda Accord 24-27mpg
2) Harbor Freight 1600lb capactiy trailer for $300. Much easier to load & it gets wenched up to the garage wall when not in use. Sits away from the wall no more than 20".

* Not good option if you have to go through the mountains!!!!!

[modette99]

..

[modette99]

..

[laspariahs]

Suck it up, gas is still cheap, I know you don't think it is, but look a gas prices historically from the 1960's with inflation. Gas is still cheap.


If you just want a motorcycle, just buy one.

Oh and it sounds like you're getting screwed on insurance, I'm paying 20 a month for a 09 zx6r, and I'm fairly young, and have a speeding ticket, 250,500,250, 250 deductibles, blahblahlbblahblah.

[mathman1000]

Not all SUV's are whimpy and get poor gas mileage. I just bought a 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser last month, and to my surprise I get 23.5 mpg on the highway curising at 70mph (and that's not even using premium fuel!). Yeah, I accelerate slowly, let off the gas WELL in advance of having to stop, and sometimes throw it in neutral when coming down the hills on I70. It has a 240 hp V6, towing capacity of 5000lbs, rides great, love the looks, and easily can fit 5 people.

The biggest thing I've found to make a difference in gas mileage are your driving habits. Are you driving 85mph? Could you go a little slower? It takes a a lot more energy to travel just a little faster at high rates of speeds. It also helps if you; switch out to synthetic oil, change your plugs more frequently, put maybe 20% more air in the tires than reccomended, and use a cold air intake.

Just my two cents......

[cptschlongenheimer]

[B](and that's not even using premium fuel!).

You get the best mileage from using the lowest octane fuel you can get away with. Higher octane fuel burns slower and delivers less total energy. Higher compression engines need it to avoid a condition known as "knock" where the fuel detonates before top dead center of the piston travel. So use the lowest octane you can get away with as a rule.

[TinkerinWstuff]

Not all SUV's are whimpy and get poor gas mileage. I just bought a 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser last month, and to my surprise I get 23.5 mpg on the highway curising at 70mph (and that's not even using premium fuel!). Yeah, I accelerate slowly, let off the gas WELL in advance of having to stop, and sometimes throw it in neutral when coming down the hills on I70. It has a 240 hp V6, towing capacity of 5000lbs, rides great, love the looks, and easily can fit 5 people.

The biggest thing I've found to make a difference in gas mileage are your driving habits. Are you driving 85mph? Could you go a little slower? It takes a a lot more energy to travel just a little faster at high rates of speeds. It also helps if you; switch out to synthetic oil, change your plugs more frequently, put maybe 20% more air in the tires than reccomended, and use a cold air intake.

Just my two cents......

I just read that coasting down hill out of gear is a ticketable offense worth three points

[Zach929rr]

Everybody shut the fuck up. Back on topic.

I haven't been trying to influence this in any way, up until right now.

Buy a drz.

[vort3xr6]

Everybody shut the fuck up. Back on topic.

I haven't been trying to influence this in any way, up until right now.

Buy a drz.

None are for sale and the only one I found the guy wants nearly 5 grand for it. Get real.

[Zach929rr]

Suzuki has a $1000 off coupon for new drz's.

[Kim-n-Dean]

You get the best mileage from using the lowest octane fuel you can get away with. Higher octane fuel burns slower and delivers less total energy. Higher compression engines need it to avoid a condition known as "knock" where the fuel detonates before top dead center of the piston travel. So use the lowest octane you can get away with as a rule.Pre-ignition, detonation, ping, knock.... I thought I was the only one who knew that :D!! Octane if a flame retardant.

Seems like I've spent a good part of my life trying to convince people of that. I always tell them, don't listen to me, look it up for yourself, they never do.

[cptschlongenheimer]

Seems like I've spent a good part of my life trying to convince people of that. I always tell them, don't listen to me, look it up for yourself, they never do.

Word.

[wulf]

If your making payments on the truck, do the math on that and figure out how much you're throwing away in interest let alone depreciation.

Then consider selling it and buying (cash) vehicles you can afford.

Older cars cost less to register and insure, also less expensive to work on.

[modette99]

..

[The Black Knight]

Yep, and unless your a millionaire you probably have no business buying a NEW vehicle and then real millionaires that made their money through hard work drive older vehicles. I know a few. If you do buy a new vehicle then you need to consider keeping it for 10-15 years that is where the wife and I are at, she can have the new vehicle but she has to keep it for at least 10 years if not longer, she understood this.

I guess I get that from living in Europe, I will never understand the feeling to NEED a new vehicle every 2-4 years. Some of the most wealthiest kid sin Austria went to my school, one kid his fathers BMW was 20+ years old. True not the miles that Americans tend to rack up...but still the idea is the same you keep it till it dies and when you do you have the cash to pay for a new one to keep another 20+ years. Think of it maybe 3 or 4 vehicles is all you need in your life time.

Another great part of owning your vehicles is it is YOURS, not the banks. I love to correct people that say, look I bought a $55K Lexus and use the words "mine"..no I say; "its the banks unless you paid cash". i too can finance a $60K vehicle, it doe snot make me special...LOL

Oh and so true on how you drive. I see people doing 80+mph all the time in large trucks and SUV's same people tend to be the ones that used to feel the need to try and bond with me when I had a Ford Explorer at the pumps on how gas is a ripoff...they were always surprised and stopped talking to me when I would say "good I hope it goes higher".
Sounds like a Dave Ramsey incarnate. And while I agree with just about everything Ramsey says, I would respectfully disagree with him on the issue of vehicles, mainly new cars.

He needs to step back and realize what he's talking about. When he says that your income is your key to your wealth, I totally agree. But then he goes off and tells you to drive a POS.

Last I checked, if you can't get to work on a consistent basis(meaning not missing one day of work due to car problems) then you won't have a job for very long. Because it's not your employers fault if you drive a POS that is always down.

Quit being such a cheapskate and buy a reliable vehicle, is what I would tell Ramsey. Because if your income is your key to wealth, then your #1 priority is being able to get to your job and keep making your money.

I see nothing wrong with someone buying or financing a new(er) vehicle. It's their money, let them do as they wish with it. Way I look at it, is if you can do it, then do it, if that's what makes you happy.

As for being at the pumps. I drive 70mph on the freeway, it's where the sweet spot for my truck is at and nets me the best mpg's. So I can honestly say, I'm not one of these guys that rods it everywhere they go. But on a side note, I hate it when I'm at the pumps and some dipshit feels the need to have a chuckle at my expense because I'm having to fill a "guzzling truck" and then wants to ask me how much it costs to fuel up.

Or better yet, stop asking guys with big trucks, "hey, whatcha haul with that thing??" in some half assed attempt to degrade us because we don't have 28000lbs of backhoe and trailer hooked up to it all the time. I don't pull 85% of the time, but love having the truck to pull what I need, when the time comes.

I've even had one guy say, "hey, do you really need a truck that big?" to which I replied, "does it really f**king matter to you??"

[FZRguy]

I average 55 MPG with my DRZ (E model with fresh top-end, ported head, JD jet kit). My FZR gets 60 (really), and my Jeep gets 20. I used to live 17 miles from work and rode my bicycle three days per week, moto one day, and Jeep one day. Now I live less than two miles from work and ride my bicycle every day (moto one or two days during the season). So gas prices really don't affect me much.

[asp_125]

The beemer gets 70mpg if I baby it. :woot: The Murano gets 21 all day long with the CVT. The Gixxers, I don't care what mpg it gets .. maybe I'll give a shit when gas is $10 a gallon. :)

[The Black Knight]

I average 55 MPG with my DRZ (E model with fresh top-end, ported head, JD jet kit). My FZR gets 60 (really), and my Jeep gets 20. I used to live 17 miles from work and rode my bicycle three days per week, moto one day, and Jeep one day. Now I live less than two miles from work and ride my bicycle every day (moto one or two days during the season). So gas prices really don't affect me much.
Man I wish I was that close to my work, cause for sure I'd ride my mountain bike in and really save on the petrol. But I'm about as far out as you used to be(think I'm right at 15 miles one way) and have way to many hills HAHA!! Plus I ain't gettin up that early to bike to work. :)

[tecknojoe]

If you want a WR250, lemme know ;)

[derekm]

< parked fairlane

<driving wifes beetle

[modette99]

..

[usmcab35]

i keep the big rig parked and drive either a bike or my vw jetta to work. the jetta gets high 30's for mpg and the bike gets 45ish

[The Black Knight]

I disagree with the guy on a lot of levels, but I thought that about vehicles before I ever heard of Dave Ramsey. He is more for those that really NEED help and have spending problems. I got the audio CD's and could not relate, I actually felt good after hearing the stuff because it made me wonder who "these poor fucks are" that live paycheck to paycheck. Oh, thats right its my neighbors playing the "lets keep up with the Joneses game".

The thing is he takes it a little extreme for my taste. But then again there are great reliable vehicles for $10K so one does not need to go as low as $1,000. And like I said if you keep the vehicle a long time, then I see nothing wrong with BUYING a $30K-$40K vehicle. You are right at the end of the day it is the persons money, I just don't want to hear that dumb fuck complain when he should retire but can not because he never saved. Also don't come to the Government looking for handouts either.

Do people really ask you how much it cost to fill up??? LOL I never talk to people at pumps, I guess it is why I hated it when I had the Explorer the other SUV guy trying to bond...sorry buddy, I'm just getting gas.

I hate to say it but I got this pet peeve of people buying vehicles they can not afford to fuel, or barely can afford. Gas goes up (it does not take a rocket scientist to see it coming) and then the extra $1 a gallon is at their tipping point. I just want to bitch slap the dude and say, "what were you thinking when you bought the vehicle"? Same with the dude on a motorcycle that wears his bike tire down to the belt because he can not afford a new tire and then bitches and complains...its like "are you kidding me if $120-$150 is going to break the bank then you don't need the luxury item (motorcycle) and I don't feel sorry for you". Sorry OP it almost sounds like you.

If an extra $1 a gallon breaks the bank you need to look closely at your life as a whole. You probably should sell the truck, and get a cheap vehicle. Could you not cut out maybe eating out once a week or even a month to pay the difference in gas cost? I mean it cost the wife and I $25-$100 every time we eat out....cut one, maybe two times and there you go it pays for any extra fuel charges. Maybe cancelling the 100+ Cable subscription you have, or cancelling the smartphone and getting a normal cell or even no cell. I'm sure there are other wasteful things you do you can cut out. I bet the OP could quickly find the extra way to fund the fuel cost if he looked around, people that tend to live on the edge tend to live there throughout their life and not just on one item.

One thing I will agree with Dave Ramsey is, people do consider those out of debt nuts. We are not 100% there, but with only a few debts remaining (house and wifes vehicle) are we the crazy ones!!! Gas can go to $8 a gallon, yeah we won't like paying it but its not going to bankrupt us either.

I only post to help people, I hope the OP can get his stuff straight and begin to save...I want to see people building wealth and not complaining in 30 years when they wake up and have nothing.
Oh I've got two of Ramsey's books(Total Money Makeover & Financial Peace). Both are excellent reading, and I picked up a lot of tips from the books. Like I say, I agree with probably 90% of what the man says. I just differ from him when it comes to vehicles.

And you're right, there are plenty of $10k vehicles running around. But I've always looked at it from both sides of the coin. Not everyone has $10k to drop on a nice used vehicle. And most $10k vehicles are either to old, are lost there value enough that they cannot be financed by those same people that don't have the $10k to pay up front. Which is why they have to move up to something that they can pay for but have to get financed for. Which sucks because it's the auto industry that's made everything depreciate like it does. Only thing that makes my truck worth anything is the fact that it's a Diesel(a + $7k option) but if it had the plain jane Hemi V8, yep NADA on it tanks.

And yes, I do get from time to time, people asking me questions about the truck at the fuel pumps. Most of the time, it's other diesel guys but I'd say a good percent have been people just trying/wanting to poke fun because I've got a 40 gallon tank to fill vs. their 11 gallon. And like I say, if it's another Diesel guy then I don't mind, it's just pointless chit chat when fueling. It's the "do you really need a truck that big??" remarks that send me from 0 to Pissed Off, that I can't stand.

And there are ways around not feeling it so hard at the pumps. I won't let the truck go below 1/2 tank. Usually can throw $30-$40(brings me to between 3/4 and Full) and that lasts me the whole work week and then some. So right now, if I'm shelling out $120 in fuel a month, it's ain't bad but it ain't good either. I'm just looking forward to warmer weather so I can get the bike out and park the truck. Then I'll be chuckling when I fill up for $10-$15 a week as opposed to $40.

[Ricky]

I just bought my 3rd new car in the last 3 years. Had the first for a year, had the second for 2, then just traded it in for another one. Is it expensive? Yup. Is it worth it to me? Yup. But I also have a Toyota pickup that has like 250k miles on it, and I've owned it for around 8 years. Great vehicle, but if I were to add up all the expenses on that truck that I paid $6500 for (not including insurance and gas, just repairs and maintenance) I have easily spent over $20k on that truck. Tires are a grand by themselves, and at 250k miles there's a lot of stuff that eventually all of it needs to be replaced. And what's sad is that no part of the engine or transmission has ever been swapped out. Not the timing chain, not the clutch, not valve work, nothing. I've done header-back exhaust.

Now, in the next 5 years, 100% of the maintenance on my new car is paid for (except tires and brake pads). I have an 8 year 120k mile warranty, so no major repairs to think of until long after it's paid off. Comparing my two vehicles, I'm not going to spend as much on repairs of my old vehicle, as I am on the payment of my new vehicle, but it's all how you look at it. Spend money on a new car and do nothing, or spend money on a used vehicle that needs to go to the shop every once in awhile (meaning you may have to find alternate transportation) and have a few hundred dumped into it. With the new car, I will spend more, and have less hassle. With the old car, I have more hassle, and have to pay a lot of people labor if I can't do the job myself. It's all about how you look at it. I have both, but I'd rather have the new car with 0 issues than have the used paid off car that I'm having to constantly maintain.
My tacoma has been the most reliable vehicle I've ever owned. That's why I kept it and got a second vehicle. But no vehicle, no matter how reliable, can go without maintenance.

I bought my CBR brand new, and while I probably could have found a bike for half the price and ended up paying half that amount, I got a bike with 0 miles on it that nobody else has ridden or dropped, but me. It runs perfectly, has no issues, and still has the lame-o extended factory warranty for another year. No reason to switch it out until it becomes a money pit. To me, in a way, that's worth some extra cash. I bought my WR250 last year for $1900. I immediately had to drop about $400 into it on new tires, rejet/port and tune.

If I had the choice to have an old piece of shit that I own outright, but I drop $100+ into every month on repairs, or lease a brand new vehicle for around $300/mo, I'm going to pay the extra to have the nicer item that I don't have to maintain.

I budget about $200/mo for gas between 4 vehicles. Work alone is about $100-120/mo, and the rest is for the extra-curricular activities..

[The Black Knight]

I just bought my 3rd new car in the last 3 years. Had the first for a year, had the second for 2, then just traded it in for another one. Is it expensive? Yup. Is it worth it to me? Yup. But I also have a Toyota pickup that has like 250k miles on it, and I've owned it for around 8 years. Great vehicle, but if I were to add up all the expenses on that truck that I paid $6500 for (not including insurance and gas, just repairs and maintenance) I have easily spent over $20k on that truck. Tires are a grand by themselves, and at 250k miles there's a lot of stuff that eventually all of it needs to be replaced. And what's sad is that no part of the engine or transmission has ever been swapped out. Not the timing chain, not the clutch, not valve work, nothing. I've done header-back exhaust.

Now, in the next 5 years, 100% of the maintenance on my new car is paid for (except tires and brake pads). I have an 8 year 120k mile warranty, so no major repairs to think of until long after it's paid off. Comparing my two vehicles, I'm not going to spend as much on repairs of my old vehicle, as I am on the payment of my new vehicle, but it's all how you look at it. Spend money on a new car and do nothing, or spend money on a used vehicle that needs to go to the shop every once in awhile (meaning you may have to find alternate transportation) and have a few hundred dumped into it. With the new car, I will spend more, and have less hassle. With the old car, I have more hassle, and have to pay a lot of people labor if I can't do the job myself. It's all about how you look at it. I have both, but I'd rather have the new car with 0 issues than have the used paid off car that I'm having to constantly maintain.
My tacoma has been the most reliable vehicle I've ever owned. That's why I kept it and got a second vehicle. But no vehicle, no matter how reliable, can go without maintenance.

I bought my CBR brand new, and while I probably could have found a bike for half the price and ended up paying half that amount, I got a bike with 0 miles on it that nobody else has ridden or dropped, but me. It runs perfectly, has no issues, and still has the lame-o extended factory warranty for another year. No reason to switch it out until it becomes a money pit. To me, in a way, that's worth some extra cash. I bought my WR250 last year for $1900. I immediately had to drop about $400 into it on new tires, rejet/port and tune.

If I had the choice to have an old piece of shit that I own outright, but I drop $100+ into every month on repairs, or lease a brand new vehicle for around $300/mo, I'm going to pay the extra to have the nicer item that I don't have to maintain.

I budget about $200/mo for gas between 4 vehicles. Work alone is about $100-120/mo, and the rest is for the extra-curricular activities..
And see that's how I've always looked at a "lease" as well. One area that I also differ from Dave Ramsey. I think that if you're one of those folks that likes to change out vehicles every couple of years, then by all means lease.

I know people call it fleecing(Dave Ramsey does) but it makes sense if you don't want to keep it forever and just want to keep getting the next latest and greatest. Which I see nothing wrong with.

I've thought about leasing but have always opted to buy. But I've been one of those that keeps a vehicle about 2 years and then has changed. I figured I had cured myself of that when I bought my 2500 Dodge Cummins. I was completely content with the truck. I had my dream truck and it did everything I needed. Only part was the monthly payment. After trying several times to do re-finances it just didn't happen. And it wasn't for lack of down payment or great credit. It's just banks aren't looking to do re-fi's because of the economy. So I figured next best option is find a truck that's cheaper and in the monthly payment I was looking to get while trying re-fi's. I lucked out and found a truck one year newer(albeit with more miles, but diesels it don't matter) that was below what I was looking to get into. So it was win win for me.

I agree, I'd much rather pay for something that's either new or newer, than have a shitbox that constantly needs money in it. I had an old 1970 F250 that I didn't pay much for. Yeah it was nice having a paid for truck, it was rough but I was working on it. Only problem, fuel was killing me. An old big block loves sucking the petrol down. Hell even when fuel was cheap(under $2.00) I was still paying $400 a month in fuel. I averaged 9-10mpg's, either in town or on the road, it didn't matter. Parts were cheap as hell, which was nice but it was always something that needed to be changed. Like your Toyota, my old F250's motor and trans were perfect. But it was the piddly things that added up. If it wasn't a belt, it was heater hoses, then radiator hoses, or completely re-doing the electrical on it(which was easy, but still an expense). Only thing that did rock on that truck was the heater and I knew at some point that would go. The truck road like shit too. Every bump, dip, uneven part in the road I'd feel. It was loud in the cab.

Hell my 3500 dually, rides amazing, is quiet and comfortable to drive. I'll gladly pay for the creature comforts and the less maintenance issues anyday.

[modette99]

..

[The Black Knight]

A 2005 Ford Focus ST isn't old. That's a contemporary car. My 1970 F250 was old. A classic by DMV standards. That's old to me, hell it was already 10 years old when I was born. So to me, that's old. Not a 2005 Focus.

I could give you a run down of vehicles I've owned(over 20 since started driving at age 16) but I won't as that would take way to much time. Suffice to say, the ones I paid for in cash(some cheap, some several grand) were all in some way shape or form a bit of a money pit. But I can say this, that every vehicle I've financed(with the exception of one) have been reliable and problem free.

Does one pay more for a financed vehicle?? Yep, for sure. Am I willing to trade the money I pay a month for the reliability I get?? You bet....

And I'm just like you, I do all of my own maintenance. Unless it's a project that I can't do and it's mainly because I don't have the proper tools to get the job done, or else I would do it.

For me it's half a dozen of one, dozen of the other. And as for keeping up with the "Jones' " I really don't give a shit what so and so down the street drives. I drive what I drive because it's what I want and I use it for what I want to do. Nothing more, nothing less.

[FZRguy]

Well, I bought my 1990 Jeep Wrangler new in late 1989 for $11k. It's been paid off since 1993, and the lack of a payment has saved my ass a few times. It's got around 146k miles and still runs okay, but I'm REALLY tired of driving it. Was looking at new Tacoma's just the other night. But $30k for a new truck, or even a used one for $20k, I no can do.