Misfit B2 Pro-Rails

[Vellos]

I have these frame sliders/race rails on my 2008 ZX6R (yes pictured is a 2009, but I ordered the right one).

http://fatbikez.com/images/detailed/18/product_detailed_image_6657_8976.jpg

They are a little on the short side so they don't sit flush with the rear attachment point. This, under pressure of the running motorcycle, is causing the connecting bar to snap. Problem is B2 went out of business (wonder why lol) so I can't get a replacement for free. If anyone has a suggestion for where I can get the bar worked on to add a quarter inch or so, or some method for running a bar through that won't break, please let me know.

Pictured is the bar that has snapped and the hole that the bar runs through on my bike where you can see that it isn't a perfect fit.

[CaneZach]

Call the stunters. This sounds and looks like something that would be in their wheelhouse.

[Cap'n Crunch]

I might not be understanding the issue here fully, but I'm thinking the easiest solution may be to bore out the hole in the slider to relieve the stress. If the slider isnt sitting flush with bike frame, you could use some washers to shim the gap?

[Vellos]

The issue with boring out the part of the slider that would make it sit flush with the bike is that it needs to be attached by a washer to hold snug. But it might work, thanks for the suggestion, I'll take a look at it today. Know any places I could get that done at?

[Cap'n Crunch]

If you go the drilling route, you may want to check to see if CU has a metal/ wood shop that has a drill press that you could use. The school that I went to had a pretty kick-ass shop that I used to use for projects back in the day.
I've got a Mig welder, but I'd have to see the slider in person to see if I could fix it. The thing is, I'm not a professional and I'd hate to screw up your slider bar.

[cbrjohnny]

can you cut the bar and insert a smaller section of tube and weld it together to make up the needed length?

[Vellos]

That was an option, but I'm reconsidering the welding an extension route because it could just make the bars useless during impact, but the suggestion did give me an idea. If I get the side bore out so it's flush I can then have a tube welded onto that that fits down into the hole, which would make it so that the connecting bar doesn't rub against any uneven edges.

If I did it myself it would be ghetto and probably still break. So the question is are there any shops that could do this, and what would something like this run me?

[chubster2003]

a weld is actually stronger than the metal itself, it really depends on how thick the tube steel is, i would just cut it, and put a piece of tube steel that fits around the bar with little-no gap, a sleeve per say. then have someone with a MIG welder weld it for you. If they know anything about welding they will be able to do it just fine and it will be as strong, if not stronger than before.

[Vellos]

Good to know. But also with welding it would need to get powder coated again so it doesn't look ghetto. Cheapest way to relieve the pressure on the rear connection bar might be the bore route. Either way... what kind of shop should I be looking for..? Not really sure what they're called.

[Cap'n Crunch]

You may want to check to see if there are any shops that build custom bicycle frames or race car frames and they might be able to weld it up for u. Any professional with a tig should be able to put down some nice welds for u. I heard a while back that 303 had a hook up on the powder coating but I'm not sure if that is still the case. You'll have to let us know how it turns out.

[cbrjohnny]

this could be welded and ground flush and a can of spray paint will clean the project up nice. with some steel dowel inserted into the tubing it would be much stronger. anyone who can do the weld for you should be able to grind it flush. I would cut the tube, insert some steel dowel, weld both cut ends of the tubing, (it looks like you only need 3/16’ or so) fill the gap (if any) with weld and grind flush on a bench grinder. This should take maybe 30 minutes or so no big deal. This project should cost you around a case of cheep beer or a 12 pack of good beer its not hard to do… you may have to handle the paint can yourself. I live in granby and headed out of town otherwise I would offer to do it for you…

[brennahm]

Check Dallas on here, he's supposed to be the CSC welder.

[chubster2003]

whenever i do welds or have to paint metal, i go to Home Depot or Lowes and buy the Rust-O-Leum (or however you spell it) and buy the quart size hammered gloss black, and brush it on. that stuff is so tough... we coated my cousins axels on his rockcrawler and where we chain it up, the paint is still there...

powder coating is not cheap, unless you know someone... there used to be a guy on here that did power coating at his house, and he prolly could hook you up.

as far as a welder... do you have any friends that work in the oil fields? they always have good welders available. or ask you friends.. i found out a friend of mine works at a place that does powder coating and can sneak me in small parts from time to time :eyebrows:

if you are trying to get it done and pay for it, google it. most auto body shops would have welders, just ask how much they might charge you to run some beads.. you will prolly have to provide everything but the actual welds, which includes measuring and marking exactly where it needs welded... remember measure twice, and if you are still not sure... a third and maybe even a fourth... (maybe you can take your bike there and he can tack weld it to check for length also)

hope this helps

[chubster2003]

this could be welded and ground flush and a can of spray paint will clean the project up nice. with some steel dowel inserted into the tubing it would be much stronger. anyone who can do the weld for you should be able to grind it flush. I would cut the tube, insert some steel dowel, weld both cut ends of the tubing, (it looks like you only need 3/16’ or so) fill the gap (if any) with weld and grind flush on a bench grinder. This should take maybe 30 minutes or so no big deal. This project should cost you around a case of cheep beer or a 12 pack of good beer its not hard to do… you may have to handle the paint can yourself. I live in granby and headed out of town otherwise I would offer to do it for you…

i didnt even think of the steel dowel, im used to having to mess with like 1" + steel tube, and dowel would be crazy..

putting a steel dowel inside, welding, filling the gap, and grinding flush, then using a grinder sanding disk, you will have a hell of a time telling it was cut and extended.

[cbrjohnny]

Mechanics are egomaniacs (trust me I know)! If you stop by just about any auto shop or bike shop and ask if they can weld they would love to do this project for you. It is a chance for them to “show off” their skill.

[200sr20]

The dowel idea would be better overall I think, both visually and strength. As for finding the dowel, somewhere like Fastenal or granger would probably be able to help you with that.

[OUTLAWD]

its a bit hard to see whats going on here by the pics, and not going to lie, I skipped over most of the replies.

what else is that bolt tightening down on....it takes force to snap a graded bolt, unless its BS all thread, and from the pic its hard to tell just how the bolt fractured...do they just have a length of all thread running through the SA pivot? allthread is made from shit metal and it way soft compared to braded hardware

I could weld it up as described, but IMO its more work than its worth

I would turn an alum or delrin "slug" to fit in the hole and take up the space that the washer was needed for, then drill the hole out in the bracket. you dont need a shop to oversize the hole, you just need a drill and a drill bit...I probably wouldn't even waste my time with using a drill press.


there was a MRA/CSC recommended welder/fabricator in boulder, he quoted me some crackhead price for a $20 job, but I can dig up his info if you want to stay local

[CYCLE_MONKEY]

Remove them and quit being a squid.:squid: ;)