PAINT?

[Stank Juic3]

MOVE IF NEEDED:

In the process of getting race glass for my 6, so I can keep my plastics nice and shiny for the street.

Checking colorrite.com so I can match the color of my orange. I wanted to go with the spray can since its race glass. But to match the color I'm going to need to put down a base coat than top plus clear. Also black for the lower.

To get to the point each can is $34. Added how many cans I will need all together and it's coming right under $200. Would it just be cheaper to just get it painted at Macco? Or just find a black tank and get glass 1 solid color (black)?

Vivid Orange
http://www.colorrite.com/matrix-colors.cfm?CFID=3789214&CFTOKEN=87406627

[OUTLAWD]

multi stage colors and metallics are going to cost more, as is topping it with clear. It will also take ALOT of rattle cans to make it look decent. I ended up with single stage solid colors on my bike for this reason, and the result is more durable and better looking than a meticulous rattle can job IMO.

anymore I would look into getting it wrapped, it might cost a bit more than rattle cans, but it will look a ton better, and you can pretty much do any color/design you can imagine.

[spideyrdr]

Don't listen to OUTLAWD, he knows nothing about painting!

(j/k - he gave me the advice I needed to get my stuff painted by rattle can)

I painted my new set of skins this spring for about $40-50. I just did 2 coats and it doesn't look showroom quality, but I am 100% happy with it. Rather than spending $200-300 on a pro job, it looks nice enough for a race day. And when something happens like a crash or an issue loading / unloading, I can just touch it up as necessary.

It's your money and you know how great you want it to look, but the advice I see over and over is to not spend megabucks on your first paint job. Some guys even just run 100% unpainted (I wouldn't, that's too blah). That $150-250 you save by doing it with some rattle cans means another track day.

[asp_125]

You must look good for my and Wicky's camera! ;)

[OUTLAWD]

Sean's gotta be a 10 at all times...through the lense thats probably more like an 11

[Stank Juic3]

Here is the exact way I want my bike to look. I decided not to do the OEM Vivid orange cause that shit cost a lot of $$$$$$. A guy on another forum said to have the painter mix until it comes close to the color. Now any idea what this would run me?

http://i55.tinypic.com/14ij01v.jpg

[rfranks303]

I just had a guy quote me $1000 to paint my street bike all gloss black. $800 if I did my own body work.

[Zach929rr]

Paint aint cheap son.

[grim]

Paint aint cheap son.

unless you use shit ass rattle can then it just doesnt last as long or look as good

[Bueller]

You could invest $ into a paint job which will get wrecked or put the $ into something that will actually help your riding. Spending a lot of time and money on paint and bodywork for a race bike is a waste, I did it a couple of times and now its krylon. My bike looks great from a spectators point of view, but first and foremost it is a race bike and they get a little rough as the season wears on. After a few race weekends they loose the luster and get scratched (and worse).
The superstition tradition is to take the freshly painted bodywork and drop it on the ground to get the first scratches the easy way. Fresh bodywork is cursed until it's broken in.

[rfranks303]

Paint aint cheap son.

True but I think $800 is a little high but maybe I'm not seeing all the fators. If I'm wrong I'm wrong. I ve only had one bike painted black it cost 350 and was standard quality but for all I know that was a weekend special or somthing.

[brennahm]

What kind of bike do you have franks? If it's something like a GSX-R with like 60 different pieces of bodywork and he's doing right and painting them all separate...then I think $800 would be not out of the realm of possibility.

[rfranks303]

What kind of bike do you have franks? If it's something like a GSX-R with like 60 different pieces of bodywork and he's doing right and painting them all separate...then I think $800 would be not out of the realm of possibility.

95 zx7 2 peice tail, 2 fairings, 1 peice upper, a tank and 3 small misc. That's also if remove the parts

[cbrjohnny]

when i painted my bike i spent around $150 for paint/supplies. i had a friend at my local parts store mix up the color i wanted, it was no problem for him or to pick a color.

i have around 40 hours in the job. i will paint it again this winter just for the change.

[rfranks303]

when i painted my bike i spent around $150 for paint/supplies. i had a friend at my local parts store mix up the color i wanted, it was no problem for him or to pick a color.

i have around 40 hours in the job. i will paint it again this winter just for the change.

I tought about painting it myself but I'm being a puss about it. I don't want my bike down too long and don't want it to look like crap. I've been spraying some fenders and stuff but no plastic yet. Maybe I should just man up and do it.

[dragos13]

Give Dave at PV Motorsports a call before you do anything else. Atleast hit him up for a quote. It might be a bit higher then $200 but no where near $800. Plus, its top notch professional paint, you can't go wrong.

Dave Berns
PV Motorsports
720 280 3613

He should be able to give you a quote over the phone.

[Stank Juic3]

You could invest $ into a paint job which will get wrecked or put the $ into something that will actually help your riding. Spending a lot of time and money on paint and bodywork for a race bike is a waste, I did it a couple of times and now its krylon. My bike looks great from a spectators point of view, but first and foremost it is a race bike and they get a little rough as the season wears on. After a few race weekends they loose the luster and get scratched (and worse).
The superstition tradition is to take the freshly painted bodywork and drop it on the ground to get the first scratches the easy way. Fresh bodywork is cursed until it's broken in.

Ha never thought of it that way! My biggest thing was to match my tank since I love the orange. But I think I might just buy a two cans of Sunset orange or Tropical Sunshine from theses guys http://www.alsacorp.com/products/killercans/bp/basepearls.htm and buy the black and clear coat from Auto Zone or Home Depot.

Which looks closer to the Yamaha's Vivid Orange?

Tropical Sunshine or Sunset Orange?

[VFR]

Was wondering about quotes myself. Just looking to paint a tank and solo cowl satin black with high gloss...Any ball park figures that may run?

[LQ3]

First time trying to paint plastics and use a sprayer. I have three piece race fairings. I read that you have to use a epoxy based paint or urethane which most spray cans are i guess, but am trying to use a sprayer. Acetone based paint will eat the plastics (don't know if thats true). A lot of sanding, primer, sanding, color then clear coat. Found primer paint (Spray can) at NAPA for six bucks and color paint and clear coat (in quart can) for twenty bucks. Am a little lost so I think I will be calling dave at PV motorsports get a quote.

[OUTLAWD]

Ha never thought of it that way! My biggest thing was to match my tank since I love the orange. But I think I might just buy a two cans of Sunset orange or Tropical Sunshine from theses guys http://www.alsacorp.com/products/killercans/bp/basepearls.htm and buy the black and clear coat from Auto Zone or Home Depot.

Which looks closer to the Yamaha's Vivid Orange?

Tropical Sunshine or Sunset Orange?

if you are going to rattle can it...just use cheap paint

when I repaired my first race upper, it took at least 6 cans between primer, colors, clear just to make the number plate look OK


Just looking to paint a tank and solo cowl satin black with high gloss...

what is satin with a high gloss, most flattening agents are something that you add to the clear IIRC

[Stank Juic3]

I would buy cheap, but all they sale at local store is hot orange. I need a Sunset orange or Tropical orange to match the tank as close as possible. So it looks like imma be spending $80 for 2 cans of paint unless I or someone can find a color that comes close to Yamahas Vivid orange.

[Zach929rr]

Just remember: Prep, prep, and more prep.

[Bueller]

Personally I would get a dented up tank/fuel pump off ebay and change that out when you change the bodywork. When you crash you will likely screw up that tank you like so much and then you will be stuck trying to find a new tank to match the bodywork you wisely left at home.
Notice I said when you crash, it's coming. Sorry but that's the cold hard truth.
Buy a dented tank that is red or blue or whatever, paint your bodywork to match if you don't want to paint it too or just paint everything.

[OUTLAWD]

^^^ werd


I got second hand race bodywork, race fairing stay and tank for 250 shipped for my bike

[Zach929rr]

FWIW, here is the proper way to paint your abs plastic.

1. Wash the part with warm soapy water very thoroughly.
2. Clean the plastic with a plastic cleaner. It must be a cleaner made for plastic. Wax and grease removers will not work correctly. The wrong cleaner and it might not stick.
3. Rub the plastic with your finger and if it is squeaky clean then it is good. If it still feel slick repeat steps 1 and 2.
4. Next scuff the plastic with a fine scuff pad. 3m has a grey pad that works well. If you need to sand anything, wetsand with 320 grit sand paper.
5. Now clean the plastic with the plastic cleaner again to get ready for paint.
6. Once you have it all set up for paint, apply to coats of a plastic adhesive promoter with 5 min flash between coats and 20 minutes before sealer.
7. Spray on your sealer with a flex additive in it. let flash.
8. Check your paint rep for adding flex to the base.
9. Spray your clear with the flex additive in it.

Edit: Just read fiberglass. Process is similar but needs a shitload more progressive sanding applied, especially since you will painting from raw fiberglass.

[extremepaint]

first im typing this from my droid and its impossible to edit so i appologize for errors in my writing. zach if i may make a few corrections u have most of the process but just a few things. wax and grease remover works like a mild solvent to break down oils waxes and other non watersoluable debris and residuea that the first regular parts wash does not recieve. they also make a scuffing agent that works well with platic parts prep. but in my 15 years of paint ive never used a plastic specific cleaner
id anything this is similar to a wax and grease remover but has less solvent to hopefully keep from releasing the oils in the plastic used for the mold release agent brittle plastic has this issue. the flexible kind has less of this problem think laquer thinner and lexan/polycarbonate. the adhesion promotor is usually the big issue when it comes to getting things to stick.

0the other thing is the sand paper
320 is mainly used dry, to sand and get ready for a high build primer or primer surfacer/sealer
400 wet will be used to sand the primer for base coat.
-sand with the 400 till u see no more imperfections in the consistancy of the primer no light dark or roufh spots should be visable. infact if u look down side of a wet sanded part u will see the shine.
3m makes a few diffrent scuff pads. RED is equivlent to a 400 gritt gray is a 600. so i leave red for scuffing primer or clearcoat for repairs that will see base coat. gray i use on cleared or basecoated parts that will see thin layers of color.

also follow the instructions to a t on ur msds sheet or directions on the can. humidity and tempvqill have a large effect om dry times and dried out texture.

to a certain extent leas is more especially when it comea time for base and clear only apply as much aa needed to avoid cracking yellowing and peeling to much paint at once can trap the solvents and cause them to lift. so like i said reading the directions is important!!

use good technique for your application of material . consistancy in ur method will show in your paint generally a 5050 or 75 percent overlap will leave u with good results. along with keeping your fan pattern horizontal to your surface at a constant distance will help.

if u or the OP have any other questions about basics ill be happy to help.