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Solinary
Fri Sep 12th, 2003, 10:23 AM
I have 2 questions that I would like to ask please.

1. My bike is low on coolant, can I use regular antifreeze/coolant in my bike, or do I need to get a special motorcycle type?

2. My bike is (over)due the 7k maintenance. Part of that is checking the valve clearance. Unfortunatly I can not afford to pay $300 to have this all done so I am curious how hard it would be for me, a severe techno-computer geek by trade, to accomplish?

I know these questions may be a tad funny, but I love my bike to bits and I don't want to do anything to it that my have a bad outcome. Thanks for the tips in advance. :)

Edit: Spelling :oops:

Anonymous
Fri Sep 12th, 2003, 10:29 AM
1. Go get the premixed Honda antifreeze. Good stuff.

2. How mechanically inclined are you? What kind of bike is it? If you're not sure where to even start, I'd pay someone to do it - it will be a LOT more expensive if you mess it up.

Hozerking
Fri Sep 12th, 2003, 12:35 PM
1. My bike is low on coolant, can I use regular antifreeze/coolant in my bike, or do I need to get a special motorcycle type?

you don't need special motorcycle type, if you want to mix it youself get some distilled water from walgreens or a grocerie store and some coolant and mix it 50/50. if you want to ride on the track some tracks won't let you on if you collant has glycol in it! cause it is slick! ... if not track then one of the simplest sugestion is what ralph sugested, you can also find the the premix stuff at autozone!

2. My bike is (over)due the 7k maintenance. Part of that is checking the valve clearance. Unfortunatly I can not afford to pay $300 to have this all done so I am curious how hard it would be for me, a severe techno-computer geek by trade, to accomplish?

7k that seems kind of low... must be a ducati :lol: , if you have a service manual it tells you how to do it in that? .... also I think sport rider described how to do it in a back issue a while back, you might also find some documentation on the web! .. I'd say I could help you out but I have never done a desmo! (assuming its a duc)

-al

Solinary
Fri Sep 12th, 2003, 01:01 PM
Actually, it is a 2000 ZX-6R ;)

I appreciate the feedback. I will hit up the auto-store today then for the coolant. As far as the other part, I am certainly not a whiz with mechanics and I am afraid I am not sure where to start as you asked before. But again, it is a finance thing. It is not that I don't want to pay to have it done, because I don't want my bike being ruined, but rather I simply do not have that kind of money at this time. :(

I have had heard a few say that there is nothing to worry about really and that I should just get to it when I can. However I have read a couple deals on other boards about the valves not being checked and then they end up hosing thier valves. I am able to follow directions very well though and generally pick up on things fast if that makes a difference.

The simple solution is to not ride the bike... heh, yea right.

Kim-n-Dean
Fri Sep 12th, 2003, 01:15 PM
Checking the clearance isn't a big deal. Pull a lot of plastic and remove your valve cover. It can take a while to get to it. Then, whip out the fealer guage. Most likely they're checked cold. If they're in spec., button it back up. If not, and this is where people freak, you have to pull the cams. Sounds WAAAAAYYY worse than it really is. If no one wants to jump in, I'd be happy to show/help you do it.

Hozerking
Fri Sep 12th, 2003, 02:43 PM
Actually, it is a 2000 ZX-6R ;)
....

all you need is the feeler gauge and some way of turning to motor because the pistons need to be in specific locations when checking the valve clearance. you can remove the sparkplugs so the compression is not fighting you when you are turning the engine.

I don't kow you adjust the valves on the ZX: one of two ways
1. shims or 2. screw type.

the shim type is more envolved if you ask me and its pretty common to see them these days. if hte gap isn't ride you will have to get either thicker or thinner ones to correct the gap, usually local shops will trade your old shims with different ones for a small fee.

the screw type you don't need to replace anything, just ajust a spacer and lock it down into place!

if you have never done this before I'd definitly get a service manual, at least try to borrow one from someone and read about the steps involved. If the cam needs to be removed you will need a proper tourque rench becasue it is important to torque critical components like that properly.

I can give you hand dependind on when you want to do it.

-al

FZRguy
Fri Sep 12th, 2003, 04:30 PM
Definitely do not attempt valve adjust without a manual. Probably also requires removing the radiator. Doubtful you need to adjust at 7k…most late model fours don’t require valve service til around 15k. Some valves get loose and some get tighter with engine wear. The loose ones you can hear, the tight ones you can’t. If a valve gets to where there is no clearance, it will hang open and could possibly be damaged. If valves are starting to hang open, your bike will be difficult to start and run like crap. But you shouldn’t let it get to this point before checking them. It’s not hard, just time consuming.

Hozerking
Sat Sep 13th, 2003, 08:38 PM
here is the start of how to do it:

http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/features/howtovalvelash/

-al

655321
Sun Sep 14th, 2003, 12:24 PM
$300 for valve adjustment! That's steep.

Last year I went to Baseline Motorsports in Lafayette and had all of the following done:
Remove Forks and Fork Oil Changed
Clean and re-oil K&N Filter
Bleed Brakes, Clutch and add new fluid
Adjust Vavles
Adjust Chain

Total Bill: $207

Jim did a really good job and I was pleased with the price. Only thing is that he is a one man shop and is swamped. Make arrangements so you leave the bike in the AM and pick it up in the PM or next day.

Solinary
Mon Sep 15th, 2003, 09:55 AM
Thanks a ton for the help offer, links, and infomation! I am thinking that I am going to find me a manual and read up on it and see what I can learn from there first. I am thinking that since I seen frost on the roofs this morning ( :cry: ) that it is going to be soon that it is too chilly for me to ride to work in the early am. Once that time comes I can make it a slow and steady project and call on ya to come help me when I screw it up. :lol:

As far as that $300...yea, that is what I said. That was from Rocky Mountain Kawasaki, and he said at least $300, depending on the work needed. That was to include the entire 7k main check, even though that is like what, clearance, chain check, and general lubes. Even if it were a $100 though I would still be hard pressed to be able to afford that right now. Again, thanks a zillion for the info. :)