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View Full Version : HELP! I think my Gixxer '01 1K might be f*cked!



CYCLE_MONKEY
Thu Sep 25th, 2003, 08:50 AM
I was rolling along to work this morning and as I dropped it a gear for a corner, when the rpm's dropped toward 1k it just died in mid-corner. I let out the clutch and it bump-started again, but then I pulled in the clutch down the road a little ways and revved it a few times, and it died again and the red fi light came on. I again let out the clutch while rolling and bump-started it once more. I got to work, wondering if my battery might be dead or something. When I got to work I revved it a bunch, and it seemed a little "burbley" (is that a word?) on the exhaust end, but seemed fine, then when I let off the gas again instedad of dropping to idle (about 1,100rpm), it dropped right to zero. Then I got a big puff of white smoke. It smelled burn, whatever it was, but it didn't have the sweet smell of anti-freeze (remember, I had it start pissing coolant out a few months ago). It fired again, and I revved it a little, and it was fine, then I did it again, and I could get it to stall like 4 times in a row. This blows! Another funny thing, the LEFT (if you're sitting on the bike) headlight is out....completely. High and low beam. I saw this the other day, and thought this very strange, since usually either goes but not both. These were replacement "superwhite" aftermarket bulbs of the same wattage, but I didn't recognize the brand. I have yet to check the socket electrically, or test the bulb visually or by resistance, but I have to wonder if that light being out might not be Suzuki's way of telling me there's a problem. I remember my old '74 Chrysler New Yorker (La Bamba!) had something strange/cool in the electrical system....when the brakelights were out, the interior dome light went on every time I stepped on the brakes. Freaked me out, until i found the problem.

Any help on this would be a HUGE help. Any Ideas? Anybody have anything similar happen? Pleas let me know, PM me, or you can e-mail. Thanks.

Green
Thu Sep 25th, 2003, 11:45 AM
If you find you are getting nothing to the front light, maybe look at some wiring harnesses, that might also explain it coming on so suddenly. There may be a common harness for the light and fuel system.?

CYCLE_MONKEY
Thu Sep 25th, 2003, 12:46 PM
If you find you are getting nothing to the front light, maybe look at some wiring harnesses, that might also explain it coming on so suddenly. There may be a common harness for the light and fuel system.?

Well, it's only the LEFT light that's out. But I find it VERY strang BOTH low and hi beams are out. Usually only one fails. I'm just wondering if it's a "safety" thing done with the electrical system like my old New Yorker. Probably not though.... I'm going to eximine the bulb visually first then test both leads in the bulb for continuity, then if I see nothing wrong I'll test for voltage at the harness with my tester. I'm more worried about why it's stalling. I've been told by a few people whos opinion I respect very much it's probably a bad Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), so I'll check that.

Anonymous
Thu Sep 25th, 2003, 12:49 PM
Swap the bulbs - that'll tell ya quick enough if the bulb is blown, or if it's an electrical problem.

CYCLE_MONKEY
Thu Sep 25th, 2003, 04:08 PM
Swap the bulbs - that'll tell ya quick enough if the bulb is blown, or if it's an electrical problem.

Well, as much of a pain in the ass as it is to get the bulbs out, especially without getting your fingerprints all over the glass, it's easier just to reach in with my multimeter probes and check for continuity across both filaments (thru the prongs on back). All I have to do is pull the plug off the back for that. If I get an open circuit, the bulb is shot. If there's continuity, then I have to check for voltage at the end of the plug with my tester.

What I'm more worried about is from the comments of others at the Gixxer.com site I surf, it seems like a Throttle Position Sensor, and I have yet to price them (if I can put it in myself), or have it done. Any ideas?

towneh
Thu Sep 25th, 2003, 04:34 PM
greetings cycl_monk,
here is a little trick to help with the bulb installation. :

first, loose wrap/pack a couple of clean work-towels at the bottom of your fairing below the headlight.

second, pull a clean sock over your hand like a mitten OR some clean thin cloth gloves to handle the bulb during the installation.

bulb will be free of oils and prints from your fingers!!!!!! the towels catch the bulb if you miss on your first attempt!!!!!!

--works for moi--
henry

Green
Thu Sep 25th, 2003, 05:17 PM
On a car, where I have much more experience, the throttle pos sensor will read a voltage at an 'out' pin, and as you crank the throttle, that voltage will smooothly increase. If you can get to the TPS, the first thing I would do is check the leads and see how she reads. Most car computers can compensate for the voltages being off, but not over varying. I'd imagine a bike computer would be the same. I'd grab the shop manual for the bike if you are serious about locating the problem or holding onto the bike for a while. Tearing stuff apart is cool!

Cornfed
Fri Sep 26th, 2003, 08:13 AM
Mine didn't smoke when I lost my TPS but it did die if I got off the throttle guickly at any given RPM, if I whacked it up to 9 k and got off it, blah it would croak same at 3k 5 k etc. I saw on gixxer.com that jeff w had said replace the TPS to another guy that had the same prob so I PM'd him and he told me the same. I checked with rocky mtn and they said no way it had to be a fuel pump thing. Anyways I went with jeff w's opinion and replaced the TPS and its been fine since. I wouldn't bother with shop manuals or anything else, I would ask around on the gixxer board and labusas then replace the TPS for 113 bucks and it will take 9-10 days to get here

BlueDevil
Mon Sep 29th, 2003, 09:01 AM
I had a simila prob on my R1. Turned out to be a faulty battery cable. Replaced it and never had the trouble again......

CYCLE_MONKEY
Mon Sep 29th, 2003, 09:13 AM
Mine didn't smoke when I lost my TPS but it did die if I got off the throttle guickly at any given RPM, if I whacked it up to 9 k and got off it, blah it would croak same at 3k 5 k etc. I saw on gixxer.com that jeff w had said replace the TPS to another guy that had the same prob so I PM'd him and he told me the same. I checked with rocky mtn and they said no way it had to be a fuel pump thing. Anyways I went with jeff w's opinion and replaced the TPS and its been fine since. I wouldn't bother with shop manuals or anything else, I would ask around on the gixxer board and labusas then replace the TPS for 113 bucks and it will take 9-10 days to get here

Well, that seems to be the concensus on the Gixxer.com boards. I'd noticed it acting funny the few days before that when I'd go to pass somebody, and whack the throttle open, when I backed off it was like I'd hit the brakes. It wasn't 'till it died at lower rpm (without bump-starting itself at high-speed) when I pulled in the clutch that i really noticed what was happening. Rocky Mtn. said it was a fuel pump issue? Idiots! That makes no sense at all. Either the fuel pump works or it doesn't. I heard Ron Ayers has them for $85, and I have the Suzuki shop manual and plenty of tools (unless there's a special one required) so I guess I'll just dive into it when the part gets here.

On the headlight front......it's fixed. Bad (POS) bulb. I bought these "superwhite" bulbs from a mail-order place in OH (Iron Horse), and when I got them I didn't recognoze the brand. Well, they weren't cheap (pricewise anyways), and the one only lasted a few thousand miles (I pitched the other)! My advice....if it ain't Sylvania, or Phillips, or Osram......don't buy it.

Green
Tue Oct 7th, 2003, 11:52 AM
What ever happened wif dis? Did you get any parts?