06' Ninja 650R Front Sprocket ?

[DemonRider]

So we have been trying unsuccessfully to get the Front Sprocket nut off!! We have tried PB Blaster, WD40, 4/5 foot breaker Bar, Air Impact, and Heavy Duty Elerctric Impact! It has three sizes 1/2 inch 4PT, 27 MM, and a much thinner 32 MM ,,,, we have bent back the washer but still no go.

Anyone have any advice?

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g394/2010UribeFamily/null-96.png This is what it looks like

I bought this and will try again with it but any other ideas?!

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g394/2010UribeFamily/null-93.jpg

My baby is cold and naked :-(

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g394/2010UribeFamily/null-94.jpg

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g394/2010UribeFamily/null-95.jpg

[DemonRider]

Oh and I have ordered a new Nut and washer so cutting it or distorting it won't be a problem , I just need it off without destroying anything internally or the threads :/

[TFOGGuys]

I use a specially modified Snap-on 32mm socket, which works 99% of the time. On one or two occasions, I've had to use an air chisel to get the nut to start rotating, then it came off pretty easily. Your best bet is to put the rear wheel back on, put the bike on the ground, use a 27mm socket and an air impact gun. Using the transmission gears to keep the sprocket from turning can potentially damage the gear engagement dogs, and the cushion springs in the clutch basket are probably absorbing a lot of the energy from your impact wrench.

[DemonRider]

ya, we have it in Neutral, and we are using the old rear sprocket and old chain then sticking pry bars through the old swing arm and old rear procket which is giving us the leverage we need ... we will try to get the other stuff off then do that last I think ..... after new swing arm, chain are installed

we will be taking the old swing arm off and then hopefully coming to you to get everything pressed into the the new one (Got new swing arm, bearings, but there is a tube inside the old one we want to re-use .... if you have time this week or next :)

[TFOGGuys]

ya, we have it in Neutral, and we are using the old rear sprocket and old chain then sticking pry bars through the old swing arm and old rear procket which is giving us the leverage we need ... we will try to get the other stuff off then do that last I think ..... after new swing arm, chain are installed

we will be taking the old swing arm off and then hopefully coming to you to get everything pressed into the the new one (Got new swing arm, bearings, but there is a tube inside the old one we want to re-use .... if you have time this week or next :)

Bring it on up when you get a chance, and I'll get the bearings installed. Probably not this week, but next week after I get back from Moab :twisted:

[j_cuz]

I second the opinion that one of the best ways is to get the wheel on the ground. Never had much luck in doing it once the wheel is off, but when it is in gear with the wheel on the ground a big breaker bar (24") works. I end up doing the same thing with wheel bearing nuts on cars since spec is usually 140+ lb-ft.

[FZRguy]

I agree you should put the wheel/chain back on, and try heating it up some with a propane torch before using the air impact. Leave it in neutral and just have someone hold onto the wheel while on the stand, or the bike with the wheel on the ground.

[Spiderman]

We can't put the wheel back on... well, we can, but it would be pretty pointless... we already cut the chain. :oops:

[TFOGGuys]

We can't put the wheel back on... well, we can, but it would be pretty pointless... we already cut the chain. :oops:

You could always drape the chain over the top of both sprockets and wrap it underneath, as long as the sprocket teeth are still mostly there.

[DemonRider]

You could always drape the chain over the top of both sprockets and wrap it underneath, as long as the sprocket teeth are still mostly there.

That's exactly how we have been trying to do it , it's still soaking In PB right now, who knows I may just need to load it up and take the whole thing down,,,,, Money is so very tight on this whole thing

[Wrider]

I assume you've used those specific sizes, instead of just the universal socket, right?

My best advice? Put the wheel back on, do the breaker bar, but jar it hard.

[CYCLE_MONKEY]

I'd use the rear brake instead of a pry bar, to prevent damaging the wheel spokes. You MIGHT need to get in there with an abrasive cutting wheel on a Dremel and cut a slot in the nut ALMOST to the threads. This will allow the nut to expand a little, also it will allow you to put a chisel in there if needed to try and expand it.

Best of luck, those kinds of things can be a bitch!

P.S. Also, I see grease in that nut in the pic. If that's the one that's going on, I think your manual would tell you so have (both) the threads clean and totally grease-free, and use blue Loctite. My manual did.

[Spiderman]

Just to clarify, we didn't put the rear wheel back on - we used the rear sprocket (held in place by a couple of pry bars), and draped the chain around/over both sprockets. The pry bars have damaged the swingarm some, but it's being replaced, so it's not really a concern. If we put the wheel back on, then we can use the rear brake.

[rybo]

Warm up the engine. Heat will be your friend and a propane torch isn't goin to be enough to counter the heat sink that the cold engine is. I'd use the. 27mm because the flange space is larger.

1. Install rear wheel. Use brake and ground to hold it in place
2. Warmup engine
3 provide address heat with torch if needed
4. Use air impact to remove sprocket

[TFOGGuys]

Warm up the engine. Heat will be your friend and a propane torch isn't goin to be enough to counter the heat sink that the cold engine is. I'd use the. 27mm because the flange space is larger.

1. Install rear wheel. Use brake and ground to hold it in place
2. Warmup engine
3 provide address heat with torch if needed
4. Use air impact to remove sprocket

the problem with using the 27mm portion of the nut is that it really isn't 27mm, more like 26.4ish, so a cheap socket will just round it off. I use a 32mm Snap-on socket that has been machined so that there is no countersink on the face, and it will go down flush against the tab washer. This also gives the socket marginally more leverage against the nut.

Kawasaki has been using this sill as nut since about 2000 on a number of different models, and they all suck to remove.

[Wrider]

the problem with using the 27mm portion of the nut is that it really isn't 27mm, more like 26.4ish, so a cheap socket will just round it off. I use a 32mm Snap-on socket that has been machined so that there is no countersink on the face, and it will go down flush against the tab washer. This also gives the socket marginally more leverage against the nut.

Kawasaki has been using this sill as nut since about 2000 on a number of different models, and they all suck to remove.

Including the 636 and my Z750S. Almost rounded off the 27 mm part of it using a 12 pt 27 mm socket merely because I couldn't find a 32 mm one (8 bucks apiece at VatoZone).

[rybo]

the problem with using the 27mm portion of the nut is that it really isn't 27mm, more like 26.4ish, so a cheap socket will just round it off. I use a 32mm Snap-on socket that has been machined so that there is no countersink on the face, and it will go down flush against the tab washer. This also gives the socket marginally more leverage against the nut.

Kawasaki has been using this sill as nut since about 2000 on a number of different models, and they all suck to remove.


I forgot about that - I've used the 32 MM portion with the countersink ground off too because it's the same as the rear wheel nut, but always thought that I would use the 27mm bit if I had one that was really stuck. Totally forgot that it wasn't quite 27mm.

Good call Jim! I bow in reverence.

Scott

[FZRguy]

Don't use Loctite! Probably why you can't get it off. It has a splined lock washer and thread lock is not needed if properly installed. You gotta heat it up to break the bond.

[CYCLE_MONKEY]

Don't use Loctite! Probably why you can't get it off. It has a splined lock washer and thread lock is not needed if properly installed. You gotta heat it up to break the bond.
My manual specifically states to use the med-strength (blue I believe) Loctite. Loctite actually prevents seizing of threads by sealing them against water, and thus corrosion. Corrosion, especially galvanic corrosion (steel fasteners in an aluminum block), is the mechanism that locks threads the worst. Yes, there is that Loctite bond to break, but I've been using it for years on my sprockets and never had an issue removing them.

[DemonRider]

I assume you've used those specific sizes, instead of just the universal socket, right?

My best advice? Put the wheel back on, do the breaker bar, but jar it hard.

Yes, we have used those spacific sizes 32 / 27 MM 6PT Matco/Craftsman/off the wall types!, figured I would try this universal one to see if grabbing the square will help and it goes to the 6PT 32MM.


Try again Sunday... We will see

[DemonRider]

P.S. Also, I see grease in that nut in the pic. If that's the one that's going on, I think your manual would tell you so have (both) the threads clean and totally grease-free, and use blue Loctite. My manual did.

Nope that was a pic of the Internet to show what it looks like, the old one is still on the bike and the new is waiting to be shipped

[FZRguy]

My manual specifically states to use the med-strength (blue I believe) Loctite. Loctite actually prevents seizing of threads by sealing them against water, and thus corrosion. Corrosion, especially galvanic corrosion (steel fasteners in an aluminum block), is the mechanism that locks threads the worst. Yes, there is that Loctite bond to break, but I've been using it for years on my sprockets and never had an issue removing them.

Okay with two drops of blue (not red!), but I don't like it and just put it on clean. No issues for me either.

[FZRguy]

Try again Sunday... We will see

Why not use a clip style master link to reconnect the chain? You risk more damage using crowbars and such.

[j_cuz]

Why not use a clip style master link to reconnect the chain? You risk more damage using crowbars and such.

With replacing everything, I don't think damage is a worry...

If the chain is put around the sprockets and the wheel is on, it shouldn't matter if the chain is whole or not. Only one side of the chain will be taking up the tension (if my head in the morning is working, I think it is the top side).

[FZRguy]

Agreed, could even use some safety wire to connect the ends to get them out of the way. Whatever you do, don't leave the tranny in gear when busting it loose.

[DemonRider]

Well, no matter what we did we could not get it off at all. We tried everything but no go!!!

Heat, PB, WD, Elec. Impact, Air Impact, Tire On, Tire Off, and as long as 5' Breaker Bar, Specific (tight fitting) 32 MM 27 MM 31 MM sockets, And Nothing. It ended up so bad, GRNMSHN (aka: Whomp Stick) and I just "VERY CAREFULLY" cut the nut off with a Drimel, managed to skate away with ZERO damage to the Transmission Output Shaft :)

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g394/2010UribeFamily/null-100.jpg

Had to cut into the old Sprocket a little to get it to come off:
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g394/2010UribeFamily/null-101.jpg

[travisspeed]

I would of tried some heat on it. Yeah then Air Impact off. Should come rit off. i would put the chain on and hold it on the front Sprocket and hit it with Air Impact off that's a 120 psi. Its probably never been off from the factory. Ive away busted my nuts off... never had a problem with one.

[Wrider]

I would of tried some heat on it. Ive away busted my nuts off... never had a problem with one.

So it wasn't you in that Cialis commercial I was just watching???