Next Up - Chain Question and Replacement...

[BushyAR15]

Thanks to everyone thats been answering my questions in this forum in my attempt to restore my '98 YZF750...

So, next up is the chain... Its got 24k on it. I noticed when lubing it that it had some tight links and a "reddish" dusting on it after the ride. I measured the chain and it appeared to be within spec. But when I went to tighten it I noticed certain sections were very loose and as I rotated the tire that certain sections of the chain were very tight like no play at all... A quick search on the 'net seems to indicate a new chain is in order...

But I'm curious what is that red dust covering some of the links? Why is the chain loose in some sections and very tight in others?

Any recommendations on a chain tool?

And should I get a rivet master link as opposed to the clip one?

TIA!!!!!

[Bueller]

red dust=rust
chain and Sprockets are way past due with that kind of mileage.
rivet type for sure.

[rybo]

Agree with Bueller on all counts.

I have the DID chain tool and like it, but they are expensive. Motion pro makes a decent and reasonably priced chain tool

tight in some spots and loose in others is the tight links in the chin not wrapping around the sprockets well

[BushyAR15]

Thanks for the responses! Ordered up a new chain and sprocket combo. Since its a "resto" project (for now) I went with the OEM size chain and sprockets.

So where does that rust coming from?

Rybo - do you see any clear benefit to going with the DID tool over the motion pro? I'm not opposed to spending the money on the DID if it is clearly a better tool. By better I mean that it reduces the chances of screwing up, ease of use, etc...

Thanks again guys!

[TFOGGuys]

I use the RK tool for pressing chains in the shop, but that is just personal preference. Your rusty dust is coming from between the rollers and the chain pins on links where the orings have failed and allowed the lubricant out and water in. Average life on a decent chain and sprocket set is about 15k on the street, so you definitely got your money's worth out of the existing set. Rybo got it right as far as tight spots go: Uneven sprocket wear/chain wear can affect the chain wrap and not allow the chain to sit well on the rear sprocket in particular. The rear sprocket can also wear out of round, causing the process to accelerate.

[BushyAR15]

Thanks guys for the help! Ordered the econo version of the DID tool. From what I read the $200 model is like for shop use while the $100 model is for the casual user....

[BushyAR15]

Just a quick follow up. Finally got the DID chain tool, chain and sprockets in and did the replacement. Went pretty smooth and easy. What I did notice is that the previous owner had indeed changed the rear sprocket and not the front or the chain. The rear sprocket when I examined it when I bought it, the teeth looked fine, but after I pulled off the front sprocket cover and removed the chain, I could see the teeth on the countershaft sprocket were nearly pointy. You could definitely see it was worn.

That DID tool, the less expensive, finished in Black did a great job. I did remove the peened part of the link to remove the old chain first. The press made easy work to remove the old link, and install the new link. Even the rivet links came out real nice and professional looking.

Haven't ridden it yet but a quick rotation of the chain show a much more uniform "tension" There are still areas that have less play than others but the tension is much more even across the entire chain!

Thanks for everyone's help....

[Generic]

Any recommendations on chain/sprocket brand for a commuter/tourer? I'm swapping out both sprockets and the chain and want something that is going to wear well.

[mdub]

My chain had almost 19k on it. Tight and loose. And noisy. I bought chain tool and RK Racing Chain. Rides grt. Quiet and smooth.

[rybo]

Any recommendations on chain/sprocket brand for a commuter/tourer? I'm swapping out both sprockets and the chain and want something that is going to wear well.

I am a fan of DID chains and have had very good luck with Renthal and AFAM sprockets. For a ST bike i would consider going steel for the sprockets front and rear as it will give some additional durability. The AL rear sprocket is considerably lighter, but that may not be a concern for your application. I've been doing a lot of business with Brian at Speedin' motorsports. He's taking great care of me and has been supporting riders at all of the MRA rounds this year. www.speedinmotorsports.com Let him know that I sent you if you decide to call.

Good luck!

Scott

[FZRguy]

A lot of cool stuff here, Ti sprockets and the like.

http://www.sidewindersprockets.com/

I've been using Sidewinder chain/sprockets for a few years with excellent results. Their products are made in the USA.

And you need one of these. Did you think those marks on the end of the swingarm are accurate....not!

http://static.wixstatic.com/media/45a2ab_82500dd2c172c38a699399d7f3e3e1ae.png_srz_23 0_160_75_22_0.50_1.20_0.00_png_srz

[BushyAR15]

I would agree with going with steel.. Steel if treated correctly is going to last longer and be less expensive than aluminum or other metals...

[FZRguy]

A high quality billet alloy sprocket will wear almost as good as a standard steel one at half the weight. There's also some reasonable weight tool steel, stainless steel, and of course Ti steel sprockets out there. Twin-ring type rear sprockets are also becoming popular (inner alum with a steel outer ring). Sprockets and chains are like tires in my book. I don't mind spending more $ on quality gear.

[Generic]

Well a lot of my options are limited by my bike, based on everything at this point and my typical 20 mile each way commute I'm going with a standard JT Steel Front/Rear and a RK chain