Does anyone handload their own ammo?

[Bueller]

Curious to see how many people roll their own. And how many arefinding supplies. It appears ammo is starting to become available but reloading components are still scarce.

[Wrider]

I don't, but am taking a class at sportsman's to learn how.

I've seen more and more available though. I know the shooting den on Fillmore has a decent selection of primers and powders.

If you're up near fort Collins any time soon, Jax has a ton of reloading stuff available.

[jcj81]

I do its been hit and miss most place have stopped allowing backordering I check and watch in stock status and order, Ive got bullets showing up this week got primers a few weeks ago found in stock and shipped within a week. I usually order everything online and primers and powder in bulk to justify the hazmat fee. Powder seems to be the most backup right now then bullets a number of places have had primers but in stock ususally last 3-4 days then shows out of stock. Everything im reloading is pistol small and large primers 9/.45. Right now ive got 17k primers, 10lbs powder but lacking on bullets 3k maybe the ones I have coming in this week are small lots to try and see if my gun likes them if they do ill put a larger order in for a few thousand.

[j0ker]

I just went to the new Cabelas on 25 and scored 100 rnds of .22 and 2 boxes of 9. They wont let you buy more than 2 at a time. I in all seriousness I got the last box of .22. Some guy pushed by me and grabbed 2 off the shelf I was walking by. When I saw what it was he was getting I grabbed the last 2. Ammo is returning. Bison Arm has some pretty expensive AR and .223 rounds here in Longmont.

[Bueller]

Ammo is returning. Bison Arm has some pretty expensive AR and .223 rounds here in Longmont.

This is why I am reloading.

I have been able to buy a bunch of .22 online for awhile now.


http://www.gandermountain.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=CCI-Standard-Velocity-22-LR-Ammo-LRN-bullet-40-grain&i=756431&aID=513C4&merchID=4006&source=linkconn&lct=s&cID=GSHOP

[j0ker]

This is why I am reloading.

I have been able to buy a bunch of .22 online for awhile now.


http://www.gandermountain.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=CCI-Standard-Velocity-22-LR-Ammo-LRN-bullet-40-grain&i=756431&aID=513C4&merchID=4006&source=linkconn&lct=s&cID=GSHOP

Heh, sold out. :D

[Grant H.]

I reload. A lot.

Components aren't too bad to get a hold of, but it can take a bit. Just buy in bulk when you find them in stock.

I laid out a ton of information about reloading for another board member in PM's (2 PM's worth). If you're interested, I can pass that along to you as well.

[Bueller]

I never turn down good info :)

I have been able to find stuff online, just hate the hazmat fees and I have a problem having someone to sign for stuff.
I would be interested in trying to hook up with others to by some bulk powder. I am loading .223 and getting set up for 9mm.

[Grant H.]

Places to watch:

http://powdervalleyinc.com/

https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/deptsearch1x.asp?dept=Reloading

http://www.wideners.com/

9mm Dies in stock:

http://www.brownells.com/reloading/reloading-dies/handgun-dies/lee-4-die-deluxe-pistol-die-set-prod54167.aspx?avs|Cartridge_1=APP_9%20mm%20Luger

[jcj81]

I like those dies but the Carbide Factory Crimp Die, it works ok with fmj but have had poor results with plated and lead. So depending on what you you are going to load that crimp die might not be the best.

9mm Dies in stock:

http://www.brownells.com/reloading/reloading-dies/handgun-dies/lee-4-die-deluxe-pistol-die-set-prod54167.aspx?avs|Cartridge_1=APP_9%20mm%20Luger[/QUOTE]

[Bueller]

Looks like the dies finally showed up, got the Lee 4 die carbide from Cabelas. Only plan on fmj right now.

[jcj81]

What press are you using?

[sloridr]

I use my hands to put cartridges in my firearm... Sorry Dave sometimes I just can't help myself!

[Grim2.0]

I'd like to learn how to reload 9mm prices are getting rough and hard to find.

[Grant H.]

Grim,

I'd be more than happy to have you come learn if you want.

So, instead of PM'ing what I wrote out, I will just post it. This is written with .308Win in mind, but the principles apply.

[Grant H.]

To get started for reloading .308, you have to know what you want to do. Do you want to produce decently accurate ammo that is "easy" and "quick", or do you want to produce really consistent extremely accurate ammo?

The biggest factor will be the components you use and the gear you pick up.

To get into it, I would watch for a used single stage press, or if you are sure you want to do it for lots of calibers, then I would look for a used Dillon 550b. I have two single stage presses and a fully complemented Dillon 550b. The single stages are an old RCBS Rock Chucker that I got at a garage sale for $20 and then I have a Lee Single stage that is big enough to handle .50BMG.

Often times, if you watch AR15.com or Snipershide, you can find someone that got into reloading and is upgrading that is getting rid of stuff cheap.

Once you have a press, you get to decide on dies. I have two sets for .308. The first is an RCBS die set that I use for my semi-auto .308's that does a good and consistent job of creating "mil-spec" style brass. They are all within a spec for loaded length, concentricity, and they provide good accuracy out of my semi .308's. The second set is a set of Redding Competition dies, that actually has a micrometer built into the seating die, and they are machined to exacting tolerances. These I use for making ammo for my bolt guns. For each bolt gun I know what the chamber length is and I know how deep to seat the bullet to have it exactly 1 thou off the lands.

A decent beginner kit would be like this: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/121...tage-press-kit (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/121744/lee-challenger-breech-lock-single-stage-press-kit)

Instead of their Lee Sizing lube, I would recommend Imperial Sizing Die Wax. It is the best I have found and I use it for everything from .223 all the way up to .50BMG.

These would be good for a cheap set of dies: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/564...308-winchester (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/564956/rcbs-2-die-set-307-308-winchester)

These are the high end competition dies that I have and use: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/792...308-winchester (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/792423/redding-competition-bushing-3-die-neck-sizer-set-308-winchester)

As you can see the price difference is quite a lot. So decide what you want to do, and then go from there.

Get yourself a Lee Decapping die. It will save you tons of effort on case prep. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/136...-decapping-die (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/136543/lee-universal-depriming-and-decapping-die) This allows you to deprime before cleaning, without extra work on the case neck and side walls.

For cleaning brass, you have to pick up a tumbler, media, and cleaning agents. Here is another choice. I used to use a vibratory tumbler and walnut media, but I have switched over to Wet tumbling with Stainless steel media. It costs more to get into, but it provides amazingly clean and prepped brass. Either works, its just a choice.

Primer pockets will sometimes be crimped on military brass. The kit I suggested above has a small hand tool to remove primer pocket crimps, and it works, I have one, but it cuts the excess brass off, whereas my Dillon Crimp Swage pushes the brass back where it belongs.
Either is fine, but when processing huge amounts of ammo, the swage is faster and easier on the hands and fingers.

For some of your ammo, you may want to crimp it so that the bullet cannot move in the case. I don't crimp my match ammo, but I do crimp most of my "blasting" ammo since it is going to be bouncing around in a magazine for an AR or other "battle rifle" before being shot. I use the Lee Factory Crimp die series like this one: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/448...308-winchester (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/448813/lee-factory-crimp-die-308-winchester)

[Grant H.]

Once you have the gear, you have to get components, which is a whole different thesis on which ones, and why, and what shoots the best etc.

Once you have your components, you can begin.

On a single stage press I usually move through each press step on every piece of brass that I am going to do, then switch. That way, I only have to change the dies one time for each step.

1. Deprime your brass using the Lee Decapping die. It's simple. Just install the decapping die into the press, and with the press handle down (meaning the ram as high as it goes) thread the die into the press till it just touches the shell holder of the ram. Then set the jam nut to hold the die in place. Place a piece of brass in the shell holder and gently run the ram up to the die, and you will feel it hit some resistance when the primer pin hits the primer and then it will push out.
***Note: Some brass is NOT reloadable. It is called "Berdan Primed" which means it has two little primer flash holes that are offset of the center, instead of one large flash hole that is centered. You can see the difference if you look into the case with a flashlight. The Berdan primed brass will likely break the decapping pin. They can be replaced but its a nuisance. So just be careful.***

2.
Trim and chamfer your brass if you need too.
This will come into play after you have reloaded brass more than probably 3-4 times for .308. The cases get longer each time you fire them. So you have to trim them, and then chamfer/debur to get rid of the rough edges after trimming.

3. Tumble your brass till its as clean as you want it. With a vibratory tumbler and walnut media, I usually let it go for at least 6 hours.

4. Get all the tumbling media out of the brass, inside, primer pockets, dust, etc.

5. If you have military brass the primers may be crimped, this means more equipment and an extra step. Refer to the info about crimped primers above. What you will find with crimped primers is that there is a little rim at the edge of the primer pocket that has to be removed to prime the brass easily. You don't need to remove much material, and in fact you want to remove as little as possible, so that the primer pocket still holds the primer tightly.

6. Resize and Prime the brass.
- Resize the brass.
Take the decapping die out of the press, and once again, with the ram as high as it will go, thread the resizing die into the press until it just touches the die, pull the ram back and turn the die in an extra 1/4 turn. Set the jam nut. As a side note, the resizing die also has a depriming pin in it. You won't have to deprime the brass, but you do need the pin as it has the case mouth expander ball. This sets the width of the case mouth to allow the bullet to be set properly.
Take a piece of deprimed and cleaned brass and smear some of the Imperial Sizing Die Wax on it. Get it on the case mouth (I use q-tips to get it inside the case mouth every 3rd or 5th round, so that the expander ball gets some lube), and the case walls. Try not to get it on the case shoulder. If you get it on the case shoulder, it will slowly build up in the die, and then it will actually start denting the brass on the shoulder. Not the end of the world, but I don't like having them dented.
Place the brass in the shell holder and slowly but firmly run the brass into the die. There will be resistance, but it shouldn't be really hard. If it seems you are pushing too hard, stop, take the brass out, and check everything out.
- Prime the brass.
The press will have a small arm that has a spring mounted primer cup that hinges in and out of the press ram. This little arm is how you prime.
As you pull the ram down from resizing the brass, place a primer in the primer cup, and then push it into the ram. As the ram comes down, you will feel it start to seat the primer. This will also be a "feel" thing. Take your time. Give it enough pressure to get the primer flush with the bottom of the case, but not too hard. If things seem too hard, stop, check the case for a primer crimp, just take it slow.
Once the primer is set flush with the bottom of the case, the case is now resized and primed. Set it aside and repeat the process however many times you have brass and primers for. (When you start processing 5-600 to 1000 you will start thinking about a progressive press like the dillon 550b - :D)

7. Powder.
The kit I listed above comes with two ways of measuring powder. The first is the scale. If you want to make extremely precise ammo, like my bolt gun loads, I weigh each load and make sure they are within 1/10th of a grain of powder to each other. If you want to do this, I would suggest getting a small digital scale. They are only like $10-$20. That way you don't have to screw with the old balance system. Its just faster.
For blasting ammo, their powder measure is great. You fill it with powder, set the number of grains you want, and then tip it up and down to get powder for each case. I have this same powder measure that I use, but then I weigh each load. Use the scale to check at least 2 powder throws when you start, to make sure you are in the ball park of what you want.
Using the powder measure, just fill each case with the powder you want, and set them aside.
I use ammo boxes for loaded ammo, but for the reloading process I took chunks of 2x6 and used the drill press to punch a bunch of holes in it to hold the brass during reloading. I drill in about an inch, and the brass lives in those holes during reloading. Makes knocking the brass over much harder. Especially nice once they are full of powder.

8. Bullet Seating
Take out the sizing die, and put in the bullet seating die. Put the seating die in the same way you did the sizing die. Run the ram to the top of the stroke, thread the die in till it touches, then lower the ram and go and extra 1/4 turn. Set the jam nut.
There is an adjustment screw on the top of the seating die that controls bullet seating depth. Start with this out quite a ways. Longer than you think it should be. This way you can adjust it in, without having to pull bullets.
Place a bullet on a processed case, with powder, and run it up into the seating die. Pull it out and use a pair of Micrometers to measure how long it is. Measure the inside of your magazine, and then continue adjusting the seat depth until you are happy. I have all the gear to pull bullets, and I still do it this way so I don't have to.
Go slow with the adjustments. You only have to set this depth once, and then you can just plug through them. If you go slow on the first one, the depth will be set right, and all of it will come out great.

9. Crimp
Depending on what you are doing with the ammo, you may want to crimp the bullet it. Most of the time this is only done on a bullet that has a cannelure, or a ring of notches around it. These notches are there to let the case crimp in.
Crimping the round is a good idea for blasting "mil-spec" ammo, or for hunting rounds, but it is by no means required.

I don't crimp my match ammo, but just bulk blasting ammo I do crimp.

To crimp, get the lee crimp die listed below, and then put it in the press the same you did the sizing die, and the seating die, except without the 1/4 turn extra. Back the crimp adjustment knob on top all the way out. Put a loaded round into the die, and then turn the crimp adjustment knob on top down into the case until it makes contact with the round. Then pull the loaded round out of the die, and turn the adjustment knob in another 1/2 turn.
Now that the crimp is set, run the same round back in, and all the way up, and then pull it out. Check to make sure the crimp isn't too aggressive. You want the crimp to move the brass into the bullet a little bit, but not so much that the brass is flush or more indented into the bullet. Its just there to hold the bullet in place.

10. Cleaning.

Some guys, as the other thread suggested, re-tumble their ammo to clean the lube and other stuff off. I personally don't. Not because I think its dangerous or anything, I just don't want to have to clean all the dust off, and I don't really want to knock my ammo around against each other once loaded.

I usually just roll the rounds on a paper towel to clean the wax off. If you want a better clean than that, you can wipe them down with a rag and Iso Alcohol.


Sorry for the book.


Feel free to ask any questions that come up.

[jcj81]

I'd also be willing to help you or anyone that wants to learn, Im set up for 9mm and .45acp. I could show you the ropes and if you can find componets primers,powder,brass,bullets I'd let you come over and load on one of my presses before you take the plunge and buy a reloading setup.



I'd like to learn how to reload 9mm prices are getting rough and hard to find.

[Bueller]

I have a Lee Breech lock. Just doing single stage for now.

[Bueller]

Thanks for the write up, I am pretty much doing it as you have described. I bought that exact Lee challenger kit. I just got a factory crimp die for .223 and have crimped a few rounds and was going to go try them tomorrow. I am running min. loads and same grain bullets as all of my factory loads. Haven't started "working up" any kinds of loads.

[Bueller]

280 rnds down range and very happy with .223 loads. And now I have some 9mm brass :)

[#1Townie]

Grant you are awesome man.