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View Full Version : No power, no lights, no horn, NADA, Zip, Zilch... HELP?



BushyAR15
Fri Aug 29th, 2014, 08:50 AM
My '98 Yamaha YZF750 has been sitting on a Battery Tender for a couple months. I took it out yesterday to ride it.

When I turned the ignition key on, the idiot lights were on, I heard a little of a whine noise, then silence... No idiot lights, no power whatsoever. Completely dead. No horn, no signals no brake-lights, dead...

I check the main fuse box everything was fine. I checked the main 30 amp fuse and used my voltmeter mode to ensure it was good and it was good. Checked the battery with the volt meter and its fine. Pulled the battery and used the one I know is good as it started my Tenere and it still NOTHING....

I'm at a complete loss as to what it could be? HELP Please!

BushyAR15
Fri Aug 29th, 2014, 11:42 AM
Not that I know what I'm doing when it comes to electrical.. Thinking it might be an ignition key area issue. I followed the lines from the ignition to a 4 prong connector. I undid that and used my volt meter on it. A brown/blue and another on top Both seemed to have power like 12 volts.. The bottom two I'm guessing are ground. So what does that actually mean? I don't know… just another point of reference if it helps at all...

Rabbie303
Tue Sep 2nd, 2014, 01:43 PM
I doubt it's the same issue I had with my SV1000, but I turned the key on and got lights etc. When I hit the starter everything went dead. Found the issue to be the positive cable that is soldered to the bracket that attaches to the battery post. When I put a screw driver in between the cable and post there was a spark and the lights came back on. So it was shorting out and just needed to be re-soldered. Worth a shot checking.

FZ1Guy
Tue Sep 2nd, 2014, 02:56 PM
kick stand switch problem, neutral switch problem??? kill switch?

Generic
Tue Sep 2nd, 2014, 05:04 PM
Bad ground? Check the negative cable to the chassis ground and look for any frayed or corroded wires. Based on the fact that you have no power to anything I'm guessing switch hardware is fine except possibly the ignition switch, that would bet he next place to check.

BushyAR15
Tue Sep 2nd, 2014, 05:20 PM
I was going to ask how to by-pass the ignition switch, but when I did a search on this forum I think someone said thats the same thing as showing someone how to hot-wire the bike… Well, my intentions aren't so nefarious! I just want my bike running!!!!!

Yeah there is NOTHING. I would think if it was the kill switch, side stand switch that I'd at least get lights, idiot lights or the horn, but NADA. The cables from the battery appears fine…

milehizx6r
Tue Sep 2nd, 2014, 06:52 PM
If you have a volt meter look to see if it can check continuity. Ohms, resistance? Disconnect the battery both neg. and positive. With your ohm meter chalk resistance of you neg cable from end to end. Then check your positive cable from end to end but make sure the cables are completely disconnected from the battery. It sounds like a cable or connection problem if all fuses are good and you're using a good known battery.

BushyAR15
Tue Sep 2nd, 2014, 07:18 PM
I have a voltmeter. Will do!

FZRguy
Wed Sep 3rd, 2014, 12:14 PM
Do you have a service manual for the bike? Detailed trouble shoot diagram there which proceeds in a logical manner from mostly likely to least, with specific instructions on how to test for each step.

BushyAR15
Wed Sep 3rd, 2014, 04:30 PM
I just picked up the Haynes Manual for the YZF… I quick glance at the troubleshooting section has ZERO about a completely dead bike. It does have electrical stuff to step through.. Will give that a shot!

BushyAR15
Fri Sep 5th, 2014, 04:37 PM
SOLVED! I'm almost embarrassed to report that its solved cause it was partly my fault. But I dislike it when people ask for help on a board, solve a problem and don't post back what the solution was...

So I had time today to go over the bike today as I only worked half a day. As I was going over the bike, double checking fuses, connectors… I saw the main fuse sitting in the tail section… I put it in and still nothing…

On a lark I thought I'd plug in my car charger and see if maybe my battery tender was bad. I put it on two amps and turned the key. Viola!!!!! Pulsing lights and power! I unplugged the charger and grabbed my volt meter. Measured the volts from the Battery and it was 12.75… But still no lights… I said alright it must be the battery, but I did try a new battery from my 2 month old Tenere and still nothing….

Now go back to my second sentence… DOH!!!! I had put the new battery in and not had the main fuse in!!!!!!!!!! So, once again, I took my battery off my Tenere and viola… it started!!!!!!

So the issue appears to be a dead cell or something with the amperage on the battery.. Cause even off the bike it still read 12.75 volts… I had a spare new battery. I put the electrolyte in it, charged it and everything works...

I really shouldn't work on my bike when I'm tired from a long day at work. Not thinking too clearly or methodically.

Thanks for everyone's help!!!!!!!!!

Yeah, I know I'm gonna get flamed! oh well I "partially" deserve it...

milehizx6r
Fri Sep 5th, 2014, 08:51 PM
Nah, it's cool and thanks for letting us all know the results. A surface charge on a battery can show good voltage but sometimes will not give any amperage when needed. Batteries can be fooling sometimes. You got it running and that's all that counts.

BushyAR15
Sat Sep 6th, 2014, 07:30 AM
Thanks! Yeah, that Multimeter while a "bane" in that it had me believing the battery was good, it was actually a godsend during the diagnosis period as I was able to verify continuity, voltage at various points throughout the system. Good learning experience

Speedwagon
Wed Sep 10th, 2014, 07:07 PM
Do you have the all stock YZF? I know I've seen one before around Denver.

FZRguy
Wed Sep 10th, 2014, 09:08 PM
I see the occasional YZF600 but not many 750s. I stopped and looked at a 750 a while back that was parked at St. Anthony’s Hospital. It was kinda beat IIRC.