Suspension Setting

[The Black Knight]

Blah....

[Aaron]

I've tried about 6 different settings, with 5 taken from the forums. I wasn't particularly happy with the 5 forum ones, but they are from guys in different countries and of vastly different size. The setting I've been using for my last 2-3 track days is literally line for line from Sportrider magazine. So far that's been my favorite setting, but I haven't tried adjusting to new settings myself yet.

Just saying, taking the settings from Sport rider is a very good starting point. I'm not sure what those settings are, I'll look it up sometime.

[The Black Knight]

I've tried about 6 different settings, with 5 taken from the forums. I wasn't particularly happy with the 5 forum ones, but they are from guys in different countries and of vastly different size. The setting I've been using for my last 2-3 track days is literally line for line from Sportrider magazine. So far that's been my favorite setting, but I haven't tried adjusting to new settings myself yet.

Just saying, taking the settings from Sport rider is a very good starting point. I'm not sure what those settings are, I'll look it up sometime.
Don't let Drano see you saying all this. He's going to wig out about you actually changing the setting of your bikes suspension, and it not being amazing right off the dealer floor. :lol:


2012 BMW(this is as close to your bike as I can find on SportRider's website):


S 1000 RR ('12)
9/12

4 lines showing

position 10 of 10
position 3 of 10
10mm thread showing
position 3 of 10
High-speed: position 3 of 10; low-speed: position 2 of 10

Front ride height: 9mm fork tube showing above top triple clamp

[madvlad]

Just go to Dave at STM and he'll set the shit up way good and school you while you're there lol

[Drano]

I've tried about 6 different settings, with 5 taken from the forums. I wasn't particularly happy with the 5 forum ones, but they are from guys in different countries and of vastly different size. The setting I've been using for my last 2-3 track days is literally line for line from Sportrider magazine. So far that's been my favorite setting, but I haven't tried adjusting to new settings myself yet.

Just saying, taking the settings from Sport rider is a very good starting point. I'm not sure what those settings are, I'll look it up sometime.

It's good to see you working with it. Once you get it dialed in you'll get a surge of confidence to push some higher corner speeds. Never stop looking for answers and you'll be rewarded with satisfying results. :)


Just go to Dave at STM and he'll set the shit up way good and school you while you're there lol

From Dave's website
*Please note; we are no longer working on street motorcycles*http://www.stmsuspension.com/

It's really unfortunate because once I get my next bike he's one of the first people I would want to see. :( Perhaps he'll be willing to make an exception for people he's worked with before, but who knows for sure. He's definitely the suspension guru.

[One-ops]

Try Giving Scott at Moto garage a call he may help out on a streetbike.
One smart cat that's for sure.

[The Black Knight]

Well this thread went all of nowhere. Just have someone do it for you is the consensus...

[One-ops]

Lol no sorry. I didn't mean for that at all. I found it helpful to have it evaluated. Make the correct adjustments for spring if needed. Have units serviced so you are working with fresh stuff. Then adjust away.
Challenge yourself to measuring sag and bounce the bike. I'm still having a hard time with bouncing but you see and feel the difference in settings.
If you haven't already you tube Dave Moss's vids. They're very helpful.
Also don't just ride and adjust at hpr you need to get to some bumps. Go do some days at ppir.

Hell we should add those vids here and some tire wear guides to.
I would but things don't work for me on this site anymore.

Anyways great thread idea lets keep it going.!

[#1Townie]

Dude just start making random adjustments. Go nuts! Lol

[Drano]

Well this thread went all of nowhere. Just have someone do it for you is the consensus...

I think this thread is an excellent idea! However, I was very pleased with the experience I had at STM. In my opinion, any chance to have Dave work on your bike is a chance to learn something new. Which is why I'd never hesitate to be a repeat customer.

Honestly, you can't do anything seriously catastrophic by changing your suspension settings as long as you adjust and test in small increments. But, as I think Townie was inferring, don't do so willy-nilly! Track your changes and you'll be fine. If a thread like this helps newer riders to start exploring the true potential a good suspension tune can provide, it's a win-win. :D

[Bueller]

First things first. Make sure you can set your sag settings, with the springs on the front and rear. If you can't get those right the springs need to change. Proper sag is pivotal to suspension tuning.

[rybo]

First things first. Make sure you can set your sag settings, with the springs on the front and rear. If you can't get those right the springs need to change. Proper sag is pivotal to suspension tuning.


Exactly!

The most important piece of set-up is having the right springs. Absent that you can make ANY other change you want, and it won't be right. Adjusting preload is not the same as making the spring "stiffer".

Also, having a good baseline is for sure a good idea, but I take issue with magazines publishing "settings" for motorcycles. There are far too many variables that those "recommendations" can't account for, not the least of which is the tire that you're using vs. the one they are using. (or your weight, or your riding style, or how old the oil in your shock is, or your gearing) These are just a few of the things that can drastically change the suspension on a bike.

There simply isn't a "magic" setting that's "good". If there was, then all bikes would come with non-adjustable suspension. The MFG would just set it all to those numbers published in the magazine and everyone would be happy.

All this is by way of saying that I've done a ton of experimenting with this at the track both with and without professional help. I have developed a good understanding of the basic problems I may have at the track (bike runs wide on the exit, back is floaty on the entry) and what to do to solve those problems. Once it's "good" then I start looking at the clock. If I add compression damping do I go faster? If I'm not having a problem, sometimes I'll make adjustments until I am, then I know I've gone too far.

My advice:

Learn clearly what each of the adjusters does on your bike. Find a baseline setting you like and write it down. Take notes every time you make a change. If it's worse, go back to your baseline, if it's better you now have a new baseline.

Make only one change at a time - making too many changes at once won't allow you to know which one did what.

Do not be afraid to make changes, everything you do can be undone

I avoid the limits of the adjusters. If something is cranked "all the way" in either direction then a non-clicker change probably needs to be made. This can come in the form of different valving, thicker or thinner oil, spring - stuff you probably won't be doing at the track.

And, did I mention, write it down. Take notes so that you can always re-trace your steps.

Have fun out there!

[madvlad]

That sucks Dave won't do street bikes any longer. Guess you can tell him it'll be race set up haha

[milehizx6r]

Try Giving Scott at Moto garage a call he may help out on a streetbike.
One smart cat that's for sure.
For sure, Scott @ Moto garage in Loveland is very good. Give him a call.

[Okrapp]

Has anyone here rebuilt their own front suspension? Tech inspector caught a fork seal starting to seep so, here I am with disassembled and cleaned fork components and waiting on parts. UPS said they'd be here 2 days ago - whatever. In addition to new seals/fluid/washer, new springs are coming from RaceTech because hey, it was going to be apart anyway and within budget. I have the tools and service manual. Think I have all the sag and preload settings I need to look for on initial settings. But, I'm probably wrong.

It would seem that suspension settings are largely personal preference and specific to individual riders and bikes. But, if anyone has gone from stock to race springs (especially DIY) for the first time, comments on recommended initial ranges would be appreciated if available. I've been riding a few decades but extremely green to the track thing and absolute newb with suspension building. If nothing else, wish me luck.

[RandomTask]

Find out what your sag settings are and set them first as already mentioned above. Then make small adjustments, taking notes

[Okrapp]

Update: The initial setup really isn't that bad after rebuilding. There are plenty of (reliable) info sources on these interwebs that agree on method of measuring the initial sag and rebound adjustments to start at. And, while more time consuming with one set of hands, is absolutely (atleast on 12 year old conventional forks) do-able.

The only hiccup in the process was not knowing the new springs would be 51mm longer than stock. The initial thought was "dang, they sent me the wrong poo". But, instructions guided to removing the difference from the spacer tube. After checking and rechecking the recommended measurements innumerable times last night, it worked out to a very simple and quicker same difference in uncompressed springs.

Result so far is only that the forks work at 30 mph for less than a mile through the neighborhood and forgetting to put a plate on it before noticing afterward. Oh, and hey no leak at the seals which was the main point at the start of this venture. Hopefully, this will feel nice and inspire confidence next time at the track. But most importantly, no fluid on the track and we're all happily braking into the apex.

And I don't think seal drivers are optional if you're going to do this more than once or dislike working harder than necessary and still potentially damaging something. I'm one of the biggest fans of lower budget solutions but the heavier and properly sized tool was definitely a bonus for this job.

[texlurch]

Unfortunately, changing springs usually requires valving changes. You can change oil weight and levels as well, but unless you know how those affect the damping curve, you can get it wrong real quick.
A properly set-up suspension will make the bike a totally different animal and much easier to ride.
Ride height changes front to rear can also make it react different, so be aware of that as well.