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View Full Version : +3 rear and -1 front OR +3 rear and stock front



haywood jablome
Fri Jan 3rd, 2003, 09:45 AM
What do you think about this? Its for a 2000 GSXR750. I am already down 1 in the front. Is this to much? would you recomend this?

Anonymous
Fri Jan 3rd, 2003, 09:50 AM
I guess if you want a stunt bike it's aiight. :D

Anonymous
Fri Jan 3rd, 2003, 10:05 AM
Is this to much? would you recomend this?Too much for what?!?

Going +3 rear with stock front will be indistinguishable from what you have now. 3 teeth in the rear is like 1 in the front (1.1333 to be precise).

If you want to notice a difference, keep the -1 in the front and go +3 in the rear. You'll probably have a hard time keeping the front tire on the ground. :D

You'll get up to speed quicker, but you'll lose some top-end. To find out exactly how much top-end you'll lose, use this calculator: http://www.cosportbikeclub.org/misc/SpeedCalc.html

Oh, your gas mileage will get worse, too (in case that matters).

Anonymous
Fri Jan 3rd, 2003, 10:12 AM
Going +3 rear with stock front will be indistinguishable from what you have now. 3 teeth in the rear is like 1 in the front (1.1333 to be precise).


Well, to be precisely precise, the ratio of change will depend on the gearing you have already. For example, if you have a stock 16 tooth front and 41 rear (like say, my superhawk) then changing one or the other would result in a different tooth ratio than if you had a 45 tooth rear, or 15 tooth front.

I agree with the rest of it though... :D

haywood jablome
Fri Jan 3rd, 2003, 10:24 AM
Well less work ill just keep my -1 in the front and stock rear. LESS HASSEL.

Anonymous
Fri Jan 3rd, 2003, 10:33 AM
Going +3 rear with stock front will be indistinguishable from what you have now. 3 teeth in the rear is like 1 in the front (1.1333 to be precise).
Well, to be precisely precise, the ratio of change will depend on the gearing you have already. For example, if you have a stock 16 tooth front and 41 rear (like say, my superhawk) then changing one or the other would result in a different tooth ratio than if you had a 45 tooth rear, or 15 tooth front.OOPS! :oops: I forgot about that factor - I have a spreadsheet with all kinds of calculations based on my ZX-11, which had 45/17 gearing. You're right Ralph, the exact percentage of change will be affected by what current gearing is: 1.1333 is for a +3 rear on a 45/17 setup. By comparison, for a 44/16 setup, going +3 in the rear would be the equivelant of -1.0909 in the front.

Thanks for pointing that out, Ralph. :D

Cap
Fri Jan 3rd, 2003, 10:41 AM
I have always been of the opinion that you want to keep the front sprocket as big in circumfrance as big as possible. So, I would have to say maybe 1 tooth down in the front, but no more. Instead, I'd add teeth to the rear, if you want shorter gearing.

Anonymous
Fri Jan 3rd, 2003, 10:49 AM
I have always been of the opinion that you want to keep the front sprocket as big in circumfrance as big as possible. So, I would have to say maybe 1 tooth down in the front, but no more. Instead, I'd add teeth to the rear, if you want shorter gearing.I wanted to clarify that too - you shouldn't drop more than 1 tooth in the front otherwise (I've been told) you run the risk of kinking your chain. :shock:

Anonymous
Fri Jan 3rd, 2003, 11:57 AM
I have always been of the opinion that you want to keep the front sprocket as big in circumfrance as big as possible. So, I would have to say maybe 1 tooth down in the front, but no more. Instead, I'd add teeth to the rear, if you want shorter gearing.I wanted to clarify that too - you shouldn't drop more than 1 tooth in the front otherwise (I've been told) you run the risk of kinking your chain. :shock:

Yeah, I was going to post about that but retracted it because he wasn't asking about dropping the front anymore - but you are 100% correct. The front sprocket is already a tight bend for those links to wrap around, going smaller will increase chain wear. Dropping one tooth won't kill ya (it will wear the chain a little faster), but anymore and you can stress it too much. That's not a good thing to do. Plus dropping the front too much will mean you'll be beyond the adjustable range of your swingarm... :D Same with going too big in the back, if you get too crazy you'll have to add links.

Hoopty
Fri Jan 3rd, 2003, 12:31 PM
I've been told you don't want to go anything under a 15 tooth front sprocket for the reasons listed above. Some bikes (mine) come with a 15 tooth front so it couldn't be that bad on chains, but any smaller and you're pushing it.

jwimbauer
Fri Jan 3rd, 2003, 01:00 PM
Above statements are right - anything smaller than 15 front for an extended period of time is too much wear on the chain.

Every additional tooth in the back will make the gearing shorter by approx. 300RPM. And Yep - you'll wheelie like a mf with 3 shorter.

Add an alu rear sprocket and a 520 kit and you'll be surprised how much quicker the bike will spinn up (lesser unsprung weight).

thanks


Jurgen

haywood jablome
Fri Jan 3rd, 2003, 06:46 PM
thats what i got -1 down front stock rear with a 520 did erv x ring chain big difference...