Sync-ing the throttle bodies (and a few other engine questions)

[reddeth]

Alright, well, my bike went down not to long ago, I'm fairly close tog etting it rideable again. Now I need to go through a check the motor over, on the list is new spark plugs, new timing chain, new CCT, etc etc.

Also going to check the valve clearences (and adjust if neccissary) and sync the throttle bodies, to do the latter (sync-ing) I know I need a vacuum gauge. Do I need or order one of those motion pro vacuum gauge setups or can I use a single vacuum gauge and just move it from TB to TB?

As well, having gone down, is there anything else I should look for/do to the engine to make sure its running right? I didnt go down hard, so I think the engine survived rather well, but anything specific I should look for?

[RCStylin']

Order one of the vacuum gauges. They work the best...

[reddeth]

Alright, I'll get one... Just trying to do everything on a budget... but I'm getting a loan for my car soon, maybe I'll add a little extra onto it...

[rforsythe]

You can't really go from TB to TB, the idea is to balance them out against each other - so you need the reference of all of them at the same time.

[Mecha Hayai]

The motion pro manometer works fine, but make sure you store it upright or the mercury will leak out. It can also be sucked out if you're too aggressive with the throttle. Carbtune makes one w/out mercury.

[No-coast-punk]

A setup that checks all the TB's at once is necessary. A single vacuum gauge will not work properly. Lots of reasons why. Make sure to synch the TB's after everything else has been done.

Why do you think you need to synch the TB's and check the valves anyway? How many miles does your bike have? How does it get ridden? What exactly was replaced when the bike went down?

Normally the things you listed do not need to be done on the average street ridden bike until ~14-16,000 miles on most jap. 4 cylinders.

[BHeth]

Carbtune makes one w/out mercury.

+1. http://www.carbtune.com/

[reddeth]

Its currently got 23,000 miles on it, I dont know when the previous owner or owner before him did it so considering that the bike has some downtime while I'm repainting it I figured a general all around tune up was in order.

[Sparker]

If you havnt ridden it too much after the wreck, i would do an oil change. Wait maybe 500 miles or so and then do another and check the oil for any debries or metal slivers. its doubtful but just something to check out ya know.

[Bassil Duwaik]

A setup that checks all the TB's at once is necessary. A single vacuum gauge will not work properly. Lots of reasons why. Make sure to synch the TB's after everything else has been done.

agreed. You gotta check them at once. In the meantime while you got everything in front of you check belts. Your in the general mi. where they should be replaced. Might as well do it now while you got it apart.

[No-coast-punk]

At that mileage the valve/TB adjustments couldn't hurt even if the previous owner did it on time. When engines sit for very extended periods the valve seats can change shape slightly leading to the need for an adjustment.

Do yourself a favor and fill the oil with half what you will normally run and half a top of the line synthetic. The reason is that normal/synthetic blends do not have the hardcore detergents that something like a full synthetic racing oil has.

During extended periods of storage, water condensation mixes with oil that has broken down to form some pretty interesting acids. It's best to flush everything you can out of the crank case ASAP.

[Spr0cket]

Hi Reddeth - I have a Motion pro unit I'd be willing to let you borrow for the task. I'd ask you leave me the retail cost as a deposit, then you're welcome to take it away for a couple of weeks if needed.

Assuming you return it in the same good condition it's loaned to you - I'll be glad to return your full deposit.

I'm only in HR so let me know if it would help you out. It's one of those items that I was loathed to buy as I knew it would be used so occasionally - if I can help out another lcoal rider, then it might well save you a few bucks too.

Paul

[reddeth]

Sounds good to me, I'll let you know when I need to use it, I'm still a bit of a ways away from needing it what with work and all. Thanks a ton.


Do yourself a favor and fill the oil with half what you will normally run and half a top of the line synthetic. The reason is that normal/synthetic blends do not have the hardcore detergents that something like a full synthetic racing oil has. I'll try that, can I ask what the reason is? I understand the 'detergent' difference of the two oils, but what will that help my bike with?

Thanks everyone for you help

[No-coast-punk]

If the oil wasn't completely 100% fresh before the bike went into storage it had all sorts of combustion byproducts in it (the stuff that turns the oil black and makes it smell like gas). When the icky black stuff sits for a long time it also picks up water condensation.

The water condensation and the oil mix to form an interesting sludge. Even when you drain the oil a good deal of the black stuff is still left behind. When that black stuff with all the condensation gets heated for the first time it turns into various acids. It won't cause immediate damage but it will wear things out sooner. The detergent in synthetic oil will a) help neutralize the acids b) clean things out very thorougly.

It's not totally necessary. Running all those extra detergents this one time will prolong engine life though.

[RAGrote]

I'm going to disagree with some of the posts.

You have to reference all against one.

Get the carbtune - 2 or 4 - if you get the 2 then just do 2 against each other, move one hose to the next cylinder, repeat until all are referenced against the one. That should give you a good balance.
Just be sure to reseal the cylinder you just did after you pull the measuring hose off.

Mercury is a PIA and super toxic to everything.