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Thread: Engine Temp & Cooling (Was "Wetter Water")

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    Junior Member wraithR1's Avatar
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    Engine Temp & Cooling (Was "Wetter Water")

    Is anyone using this product? I'm up for a service here pretty soon and am thinking of using it. My bike operates in the 210 - 220 degree range right now and is killing my thighs.
    02' R1

  2. #2
    Senior Member UglyDogRacing's Avatar
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    Even though the label on it says that it can lower your temp by 30 degrees, my experience with Waterwetter is that it is not going to help your bike run cooler. I run it and so do most racers because it raises the boiling point of water when mixed with it.
    If you are not planning on racing, then a good alternative to antifreeze is Engine Ice. Engine Ice did lower the temp in a street bike that I was running it in.
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    Junior Member wraithR1's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tip! I don't race so the Engine Ice appears to be more feasible. How much did the Engine Ice lower the temp?
    02' R1

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    Member japrules's Avatar
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    There is another reason to use water wetter for racing.. if you do not run anti-freeze it lubricates your water pump. I have tested in auto racing apps.. no cooler. It lowers boiling point and lubes.. thats it.

    Joe
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    Senior Member BlueDevil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MileHighGSXR
    Even though the label on it says that it can lower your temp by 30 degrees, my experience with Waterwetter is that it is not going to help your bike run cooler. I run it and so do most racers because it raises the boiling point of water when mixed with it.
    If you are not planning on racing, then a good alternative to antifreeze is Engine Ice. Engine Ice did lower the temp in a street bike that I was running it in.

    Id second this. If U arent racing or have some rule that prevents using Anti freeze...dont bother.
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    Senior Member The GECCO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by japrules
    There is another reason to use water wetter for racing.. if you do not run anti-freeze it lubricates your water pump. I have tested in auto racing apps.. no cooler. It lowers boiling point and lubes.. thats it.

    Joe
    Nope, sorry. I assume you typoed that it lowers boiling points, but even if you said it raised boiling points you'd be wrong. Pressure is the only thing that raises boiling temps.

    Water pumps don't need lubrication. The bearing for the impeller shaft is behind the shaft seal and lubricated by the engine oil.

    Todayís motorcycle engines arenít running hot, they run at ~220 because thatís how they are designed to operate. More on that below.

    Here's what water wetter REALLY does. It is a surfactant, which means it lowers the surface tension of water. What does that mean? Well, lemme put it this way - bar soap doesn't actually clean your skin, water does. The problem is that normally the surface tension of both your skin and the water prevents the water from getting "into" your skin enough to remove oils and dirt. If you lower the surface tension of the water it can become thinner and get in between your skin and the oils and dirt you want to remove. Bubbles are a natural result of soap, but they aren't made of soap, they are made of water. Normally the surface tension of water is such that the surface breaks before it is stretched thin enough to be supported by air and form a bubble. If you lower the surface tension it can be stretched thinner without breaking and a bubble is formed.

    Another example of what surface tension does is when you wax your car. Before waxing it doesn't "bead" water, right? The water spreads out smoothly. When you wax your car one of the results is the surface of the paint now has a higher surface tension and resists the water, which results in "beading". This means that the surface also resists other contaminants, which is how the wax protects the paint. The beading is a result of the surface tension of the water making it want to form a sphere, a sphere being the shape that has the least amount of surface area per amount of volume.

    OK, back to the point...in order for water to cool an engine you must have heat transfer in three places - from the engine to the water, then from the water to the radiator, then from the radiator fins to the air. We'll forget about the third for now since we're talking about the water, not the condition of the fins.

    So, we agree we need heat transfer. Heat is most efficiently transferred when objects touch, the more surface area they touch, the more energy they transfer. Back to the water beading on your fresh wax job - when the water beads (high surface tension) only a very little of it is actually touching the paint and available to accept heat transfer, whereas before you waxed it (low surface tension) the water spread out and there was more surface area contact, which would facilitate better energy transfer.

    Inside your engine there is natural surface tension in both the aluminum and the water...they are resisting contact and therefore resisting energy transfer. The surfactant lowers the waters surface tension and makes it "dig into" the aluminum better. This increase in surface area contact reduces hot spots and makes for better energy transfer both from the engine to the water and the water to the radiator. Once the radiator has the energy, the fins must be in good enough shape to get the energy to the air. Again, more fins and/or straighter fins = more surface area exposed to the air.

    So, in summary, all water wetter does is lower the surface tension of the water which increases surface area contact between the water and the aluminum which in turn increases energy transfer between the two. The trick is making a product that lowers the surface tension without allowing the churning of the water pump to create foam or bubbles.

    A couple other general points about engine temp:

    1) As I said above, these bikes are designed to run hot. You want it to run as hot as possible, as long as the temp levels off and doesnít continue to climb. Why? Because another thing that increases energy transfer is a disparity between the temps of the two objects. The cooler the water in the jackets is, the more heat it takes from the cylinder, which is heat that is now no longer pushing the piston down. When you use products like this to lower engine temp, what youíve effectively done is allow yourself some headroom to do mechanical things that increase HP (which increases heat by-product) without overheating the engine. As long as it isnít boiling over, donít lower engine temps just for the sake of wanting the engine to run cooler, the result will be a decrease (albeit, a very small one) in power output.

    2) If you are sure your cooling system is operating at its peak and you still canít control engine temps, the possible culprit is pre-detonation of the fuel (the fuel burning from the heat in the cylinder before the sparkplug fires). Even if the engine is bone stock and runs fine on pump gas on the street, the constant high RPM use of track use allows less time for the excess heat to dissipate. This increases cylinder temps, which can lead to pre-det, which leads to higher temps, which leads to more pre-det, etc, and your coolant temp skyrockets. The answer could be higher-octane fuel. Octane is a measure of the fuels ability to resist pre-detonation. Because higher-octane fuels actually resist burning, ideally you want to run the lowest (yes, I said lowest) octane fuel you can without getting pre-detonation. This will result in an increase in power output. Putting higher-octane fuel in an engine that doesnít exhibit symptoms of needing it will result in a decrease in power output (oxygenated fuels excepted Ė this is another discussion). You put high-octane fuel in high HP engines because they make lots of power, not the other way around.

    3) Other factors that increase engine temp are lean mixtures, compression increases and timing advances.

    Your homework for tonight is to read chapters 4-7 on thermodynamics. Class dismissed.
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    Senior Member BlueDevil's Avatar
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    Wow U learnded me some schooling today.

    Good info.

    Although the girls that sit next to me at work dont agree that their foo foo expensive soap is not actually cleaning their skin. "If they pay 5 bucks a bar its supposed to be better at cleaning your skin"
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    Senior Member The GECCO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueDevil
    Wow U learnded me some schooling today.

    Good info.

    Although the girls that sit next to me at work dont agree that their foo foo expensive soap is not actually cleaning their skin. "If they pay 5 bucks a bar its supposed to be better at cleaning your skin"
    LOL They could be right, but that just means their soap is a better surfactant, it still isn't cleaning their skin.

    Either that or they are paying extra for all the purfumes and moisturizing crap they're putting in womens soap these days...not that I mind, I like it when women are soft and smell all "girly"
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    Senior Member Big-J's Avatar
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    WOW, Thanks Glen!! That is some good info you just gave!!

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    Junior Member 919Guy's Avatar
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    Look at the big brain on Glenn!!!

    Seriously. Good info...

  11. #11
    Senior Member BlueDevil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The GECCO

    Either that or they are paying extra for all the purfumes and moisturizing crap they're putting in womens soap these days...not that I mind, I like it when women are soft and smell all "girly"

    Agreed!!!
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    Senior Member Dysco's Avatar
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    What's up, Mr Wizard? Holy crap. I lost a good chunk of my childhood storing that information.
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    Quote Originally Posted by The GECCO
    It is a surfactant, which means it lowers the surface tension of water. What does that mean? Well, lemme put it this way - bar soap doesn't actually clean your skin, water does. The problem is that normally the surface tension of both your skin and the water prevents the water from getting "into" your skin enough to remove oils and dirt. If you lower the surface tension of the water it can become thinner and get in between your skin and the oils and dirt you want to remove. Bubbles are a natural result of soap, but they aren't made of soap, they are made of water. Normally the surface tension of water is such that the surface breaks before it is stretched thin enough to be supported by air and form a bubble. If you lower the surface tension it can be stretched thinner without breaking and a bubble is formed.
    Soap is a surfactant which allows the water to clean skin and form bubbles, and the lower the surface tension in a radiator fluid, the better correct?


    Hot damn! I'm gonna go home and put beer in my radiator and take a piss shower!

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    Member Bigtime73's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 600RR
    Quote Originally Posted by The GECCO
    It is a surfactant, which means it lowers the surface tension of water. What does that mean? Well, lemme put it this way - bar soap doesn't actually clean your skin, water does. The problem is that normally the surface tension of both your skin and the water prevents the water from getting "into" your skin enough to remove oils and dirt. If you lower the surface tension of the water it can become thinner and get in between your skin and the oils and dirt you want to remove. Bubbles are a natural result of soap, but they aren't made of soap, they are made of water. Normally the surface tension of water is such that the surface breaks before it is stretched thin enough to be supported by air and form a bubble. If you lower the surface tension it can be stretched thinner without breaking and a bubble is formed.
    Soap is a surfactant which allows the water to clean skin and form bubbles, and the lower the surface tension in a radiator fluid, the better correct?


    Hot damn! I'm gonna go home and put beer in my radiator and take a piss shower!
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    Senior Member The GECCO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 600RR
    Hot damn! I'm gonna go home and put beer in my radiator and take a piss shower!
    ....ummmmm........












    what?!?
    The GECCO

    You begin your riding career with a bag full of luck and an empty bag of experience. The trick is to fill the bag of experience before you empty the bag of luck.

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    Professor Glenn... Do we get extra credit if build one of the toys mentioned chapter 5? I was thinking of building the ďsimple rocket engineĒ.

    Thanks!

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    Senior Member The GECCO's Avatar
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    Dude....do you have ANY IDEA how bad Lurch would make fun of you if you showed up with a little match-head rocket that goes a few feet at best?
    The GECCO

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    haha I know... Lurch.. yeah... crazy MOFO!
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    I run Water Wette in my Saab with good results......

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    All reading this thread made me want to do, is wash and wax my bike.

    We should have a big CSC wash and wax day somewhere.
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    Re: Engine Temp & Cooling (Was "Wetter Water")

    A whisp of Wetter water whet my better water wetter

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    Member Chris's Avatar
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    Re: Engine Temp & Cooling (Was "Wetter Water")

    Quote Originally Posted by The GECCO View Post

    Another example of what surface tension does is when you wax your car. Before waxing it doesn't "bead" water, right? The water spreads out smoothly. When you wax your car one of the results is the surface of the paint now has a higher surface tension and resists the water, which results in "beading". This means that the surface also resists other contaminants, which is how the wax protects the paint. The beading is a result of the surface tension of the water making it want to form a sphere, a sphere being the shape that has the least amount of surface area per amount of volume.
    WRONG

    Are you just making this bullshit up off the top of your head?

    http://www.pa.msu.edu/sciencet/ask_st/081094.html

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    Member mushin_man39's Avatar
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    Re: Engine Temp & Cooling (Was "Wetter Water")

    You didn't say if that was at idle or riding. If riding, what type of riding? City or highway? What's the ambient temp? etc....
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    Re: Engine Temp & Cooling (Was "Wetter Water")

    im hearing that engine ice is some good stuff...

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