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Thread: Oil (Car vs. Motorcycle)

  1. #1

    Oil (Car vs. Motorcycle)

    This could be old news to some or even a re-post...but I could care-less...

    http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/oil.html



    Excerpt -

    It could appear from this data, then, that there is no validity to the constantly-used argument that motorcycle-specific oils provide superior lubrication to automotive oils when used in a motorcycle. If the viscosity drop is the only criterion, then there is certainly no reason to spend the extra money on oil specifically designed for motorcycles. There does, however, appear to be a legitimate argument for using synthetic and synthetic-blend oils over the petroleum based products.

    In short, it seems to be nothing more than a clever marketing ploy designed to enhance their products' image and separate motorcyclists from their money.

  2. #2
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    The biggest argument (which you won't see on that report since it's for Ducati's, which have dry clutches) is that car oil (some, not all) has friction modifiers in it - which some of it does. The problem is, you can't really tell what does and doesn't. So what happens when these 'friction modifiers' get into your wet-clutch motorcycle? To the engine, nothing really - however they can cause clutch slippage and increased wear. What bike oils get you are a guarantee that you won't find that stuff in there.

    Obviously synthetic is going to lubricate better than petrol, that's the whole point of it. As for car vs bike oil, car oil is a gamble on whether those modifiers will be in there (unless you know for sure), otherwise the products are very similar.

  3. #3
    Senior Member BigE's Avatar
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    Interesting article, the claim i have always heard is that car oil has additives which would make a motorcycle clutch slip i.e. teflon or something like it. Which would mean car oil was fine for bikes with dry clutches (Ducatis) but not for the majority. So I found that there was no mention of that and the fact they tested with a wet clutch bike interesting.
    Would have been interesting to have included Mobil1 syn. bike oil against their car oil.
    Eric
    CSBA#477
    00 Triumph Sprint RS
    www.cocsba.com


  4. #4
    Member Quick636's Avatar
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    Quick tip... when shopping for oil look on the back. There is a round stamp on the back that lists the standards that the oil meets. If it says "energy conserving" in that round stamp then it has the friction modifiers in it.

    Most of the ones I have seen that have it are the secialty oils, such as high mileage oils, or performance oils.
    Jason
    Bikeless for now...

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Quick636
    Quick tip... when shopping for oil look on the back. There is a round stamp on the back that lists the standards that the oil meets. If it says "energy conserving" in that round stamp then it has the friction modifiers in it.

    Most of the ones I have seen that have it are the secialty oils, such as high mileage oils, or performance oils.
    Excellant...thanks for the tip on that...

  6. #6
    Senior Member BigE's Avatar
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    Thanks- good to know!
    Eric
    CSBA#477
    00 Triumph Sprint RS
    www.cocsba.com


  7. #7
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    Very interesting stuff... I change my oil around my 1000 mile mark.. I use Mobil 1... I’m sure I can get more miles out of my oil but I rather be safe than sorry...

  8. #8
    Member Quick636's Avatar
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    Honestly, it is a waste of money to change it every 1000 miles. At 1000 miles the oil isn't even broken down, ESPECIALLY not synthetic oil. Hell, at 3000 miles the oil still hasn't broken down. The main reason to change your oil every 3000 miles (on normally driven vehicles) is contaminants to the oil.

    Even in my owners manual it says to change the oil every 3000 miles. I mean to each their own, but why throw your money away like that?
    Jason
    Bikeless for now...

  9. #9
    Member Rick T.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Franks-Ducs
    Very interesting stuff... I change my oil around my 1000 mile mark.. I use Mobil 1... I’m sure I can get more miles out of my oil but I rather be safe than sorry...
    This is overkill - specially w/ full synthetic. But hey... it's your bike, your $$.

    I change my oil (Silkolene Full Synthetic) every 3K miles.
    Rick T.
    '12 Ducati SF848
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  10. #10
    Member NZ Darren's Avatar
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    If you use mobile 1 make sure its the one with the red cap, its the only one that is not energy conserving.

  11. #11
    Member Quick636's Avatar
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    Ducati... dry clutch?
    Jason
    Bikeless for now...

  12. #12
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    Gotcha…”RED CAP” O yes I know its overkill.. I will defiantly consider stretching out my oil changes… thanks for the advice guys…

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quick636
    Honestly, it is a waste of money to change it every 1000 miles. At 1000 miles the oil isn't even broken down, ESPECIALLY not synthetic oil. Hell, at 3000 miles the oil still hasn't broken down. The main reason to change your oil every 3000 miles (on normally driven vehicles) is contaminants to the oil.

    Even in my owners manual it says to change the oil every 3000 miles. I mean to each their own, but why throw your money away like that?
    I do it at 3k because of contaminants. Clutches wear down and make the oil dirty, and I'd rather be safe than sorry. FWIW if you ride the hell out of it, you will need to change it more often as well. (I'm planning every other weekend on the racebike.) I have oil in the 4runner right now however that will go 7,500 miles between changes, and I don't drive it too hard, so that will save me some money.

    1k is definitely overkill on a streetbike. 1,000 street miles aren't much at all, unless you're at redline the entire time (in which case, you're racing).

  14. #14
    Member Quick636's Avatar
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    Which is why I change mine every 2000 miles... I ride'er pretty hard in the canyons (yes, redline is visited frequently )

    Damn I need a racebike!
    Jason
    Bikeless for now...

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