Oil Change

[Mister Z]

Whats good oil for the good ol bike for an oil change?!?!?!

Taking any suggestions

[NZ Darren]

Peanut is good but I prefer Olive oil, the darker the stronger the flavor.



For the bike I use Mobil1 (has to be the one with the red cap as it does not contain friction modifiers)

But there are tons of options

[GSXR-ATW]

I like AMSOIL , but if you don't feel like ordering it off the web I've heard Mobil 1 synthetic is pretty good, its about $8.00 a quart though.

[Mister Z]

2 for Mobil 1

Alright thanks for the help amigos

[King Nothing]

filter? I thought i heard someone say that there was a brand at napa, that was cheap and still had very good filtering.....

[NZ Darren]

I like AMSOIL , but if you don't feel like ordering it off the web I've heard Mobil 1 synthetic is pretty good, its about $8.00 a quart though.

$8???

No way, just go to an auto store or walmart.

[FZRguy]

Here's a couple of pages worth of oil and filter discussions from the Tech forum. These can go on for days, if not weeks.


http://www.cosportbikeclub.org/forum...pic.php?t=8826

[King Nothing]

thanks, thats what i was looking for.

[Anonymous]

filter? I thought i heard someone say that there was a brand at napa, that was cheap and still had very good filtering.....

Carquest. They're made by Wix and are the shiznit. Napa Gold are basically the same thing, but you know you want to go get it from CQ (in lafayette).

The racebike's gonna be getting the AMSOIL treatment soon (breakin, and at least the first day of the SCR races, will be dino, then it'll switch to synthetic). FWIW I am about to order some, so if anyone would like any I'll hook 'em up with dealer cost on it. Can't remember the cost right now but I think it's about $3-4 a quart. I recommend 10w40 for street, 20w50 for race (you can run 10w40 on a racebike and get a *little* extra power, at the expense of some lubrication, so I really don't recommend it - get what's rated for the heat and save your motor).

[~Barn~]

You get a Wix for my R1 yet there, Ralphy? I'll be at 3000 miles on this oil, in notime.

[King Nothing]

i went to carquest today to get a filter, the moron behind the counter wouldn't even look in the computer to see what filter would fit my bike. Ass. Went and got a suzuki filter at grand prix......

[DanFZ1]

After the bike is broken in with organic oil for 600 miles, or a semi-synth with good suspension properties, go with Mobil 1 Cycle oil 10w40. Its for high revving sport bikes. Their 20w50 synth is for low revving cruisers. I have never experienced clutch problems with this bike.

Mobil 1 10w40 Cycle oil gets my vote for japanese in-line four street bikes.

[Anonymous]

10w40 vs 20w50 is just a viscosity thing dude. I run 20w50 in my racebike (which typically sustains higher revs than most street bikes hit momentarily) because at higher heat, it lubricates better.

The thing with 20w50 is you should let it warm up a little before you go ride (doesn't take long, just warm the bike up to operating temp). With 10w40 you can get on it a little earlier ... though a warmup is still a good idea.

If a harley needs 20w50 to lubricate, that either means the tolerances are so loose that it needs thick oil when cold, or that it runs so bloody hot that 10w40 would damage something. Think about it.

For a streetbike however (sport bike here), 10w40 is my oil of choice since it doesn't see the abuse my race motor does, and gets ridden sometimes before it has warmed up all the way.

[rybo]

Amsoil makes excellent filters in addition to good oil.

[DanFZ1]

10w40 vs 20w50 is just a viscosity thing dude.

Yes, the difference between 10w40 and 20w50 is vescosity.

What I was previously trying to convey about Mobil 1 Cycle Oil Products specifically is best stated by the Mobil 1 FAQ from their website.

Mobil 1 MX4T is designed for sport bikes. Most of these bikes have multi-cylinder/multi-valve engines and use a common sump, which means the engine oil lubricates the engine, transmission and wet clutch. So unlike Mobil 1 for cars, Mobil 1 MX4T has no friction modifiers, which could lead to clutch slippage.

The motorcycle oil also has more phosphorus/zinc for enhanced wear protection at high engine speeds and high loads. Remember, most bikes don’t have catalytic converters, so higher levels of phosphorus are not a problem.

In addition, Mobil 1 MX4T uses different dispersant/detergent technology for better high-temperature performance and engine cleanliness. Mobil 1 MX4T is also offered in a different viscosity grade than Mobil 1 for passenger cars.

Mobil 1 V-Twin oil is designed for air-cooled, large-displacement bikes. Because of their design, these engines can generate very high localized oil temperatures and high overall bulk-oil temperatures.

As you know, a typical air-cooled V-twin's rear cylinder gets a lot hotter than the front cylinder – it's a matter of airflow. When it's hot out and you're stuck in traffic, the oil temperature in your bike climbs rapidly. Above about 250° F, conventional motor oil is going to break down. Mobil 1 V-Twin synthetic oil is good to above 300° F.

In addition, Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 is a higher-viscosity grade than Mobil 1 15W-50 for passenger cars. And Mobil 1 V-Twin has no viscosity index improvers, so the oil is very "shear stable." Simply put, Mobil 1 V-Twin synthetic oil won't break down as readily as conventional oil.

Like Mobil 1 MX4T, Mobil 1 V-Twin has high levels of phosphorus/zinc and the same high-temperature detergent technology for superior wear protection and engine cleanliness, even at elevated oil temperatures.

With Mobil 1 V-Twin oil, you can go the full length of the manufacturer's recommended oil change intervals with ease.

Apparently, Mobil 1 has developed the two products for two completely different uses.

According to the Mobil 1 Store in Boulder, MX4T only comes in one flavor, 10w40.

If their is a fully synth product out their that is 20w40 that would be great. Yamaha lube is 20w40 but is a semi-synth product. I prefer to run a fully synthetic motorcycle specific oil.