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Thread: Bike acting weird... (oil)

  1. #1
    Member Quick636's Avatar
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    Bike acting weird... (oil)

    So I changed the oil today, like I have done 7 times prior. Usually after I ride the bike it takes a few minutes until I can see the oil in the sight window. Well after my ride today I come back, put the bike up on stands and I immediately see oil in the window. Odd, so I start the bike up and the oil is not flowing into the motor like it usually does. Usually there will be no oil in the sight window after the bike it started. But now it barely takes any of the oil from the window. I also had trouble starting the bike... it would crank, but when it finally started the idle was super low and it wanted to die. Once it warmed up it was fine.

    The only thing different is I went from Motul 15w50 semi synthetic to Silkolene 20w50 semi synthetic. If nothing else I might just change the oil again to the Motul.

    Why is this oil acting different? Thw weight difference isn't much at all... but this silkolene oil seems thinner than the motul, which would make sense as to why it was flowing faster. Any ideas?
    Jason
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    Member Quick636's Avatar
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    Please? LOL
    Jason
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    Senior Member friscokidd's Avatar
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    im no expert here, so some one tell me why this is, but why would you use 20w50 in a bike? Come winter time, your oil will be like pudding and your motor will not like that.......but on the other hand, it is a kawa-suki


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    Member Quick636's Avatar
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    Yeah, that may be the cause of the sluggish start. I guess I just didn't think there would be a big difference between 15w50 and 20w50... cuz I had no problems with the 15w50 all winter, or all summer for that matter.
    Jason
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quick636
    Yeah, that may be the cause of the sluggish start. I guess I just didn't think there would be a big difference between 15w50 and 20w50... cuz I had no problems with the 15w50 all winter, or all summer for that matter.
    I’m far from an expert also, but I use 15w50 in my bikes… My bike requires that heavy weight because of the valve set-up. I’m not sure if that would apply to your bike.. what does your owners manual say?

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    Member Quick636's Avatar
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    Recommended is 10w40, but it does list 20-50 as a possible weight. Its also the very highest on the chart...

    So I think I will go buy some more oil tomorrow
    Jason
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  7. #7
    Senior Member swademaster's Avatar
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    10-40 is good for year round riding. 20-50 is good mainly in the summer as it is a heavier oil. In the winter 20-50 takes longer to warm up, meaning that it takes longer to cycle through the engine.
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    Going from a 15 to 20 base weight won't make a difference like that (and I have 20 in my streetbike now, though it's going to 10 soon).

    Are you sure you're developing pressure? Did you also stick a new oil filter on there? Does the oil level EVER drop, or does it stay the same?

  9. #9
    Member Quick636's Avatar
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    I don't know what it was. I do know that there was oil flowing through motor. I think I had air somewhere that was hindering the oil pickup process. I cranked it up this morning and all was well.
    Jason
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    Yep, that's what I was getting at. You probably didn't have a filter passing oil. Read the other recent topic in here on the subject, both glenn and I posted some stuff on how to fix that. And don't ever ride your bike without verifying proper lubrication! Under load, it'll take you all of 3 blocks to cook your motor without oil.

  11. #11
    Member Quick636's Avatar
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    Well I guess that goes back to the oil weight, because I never had this problem before. (11k on the bike, so 6 or 7 oil changes.)

    I'll definetely get that oil filter filled before firing her up next time though, because it makes perfect sense.
    Jason
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    jason,


    It wasn't the oil weight that caused the problem. Sometimes when you install a new filter and it's dry it can cause an air bubble in the system that the oil can't flow through. I essentially think that the oil pump doesn't get primed because the medium is air instead of oil. The oil pump was never designed to pump air, so it isn't very effective at moving the bubble through the system.

    There were two suggestions on the board recently that will prevent this from happening again.

    1. Fill the filter with oil before you install it
    2. Start the engine with the filter slightly loose. When the oil seeps out you know that you have prime on the oil pump. Shut the engine down and tighten the filter.

    Over and out!

    Scott

  13. #13
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    Has nothing to do with the oil weight. It just happens. It happened on my GSXR running 10w40.

  14. #14
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    Okedoke. In any case, I am glad there was some oil flowing and my motor isn't FUBAR. Live and learn...
    Jason
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    Senior Member Dr. Joe Siphek's Avatar
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    This is what I normally do:
    Once i've changed the oil...I'll crank the bike, but not let it start, that gets the oil pumping through everything w/out starting the bike...if it starts I just shut it down and keep clicking the starter 10 or 15 times, but not starting the bike if that makes sense.
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Siphek
    This is what I normally do:
    Once i've changed the oil...I'll crank the bike, but not let it start, that gets the oil pumping through everything w/out starting the bike...if it starts I just shut it down and keep clicking the starter 10 or 15 times, but not starting the bike if that makes sense.
    Yes but that still won't fill a "locked" filter. If it won't build pressure you can loosen the filter just until the gasket comes away from the block, start it up, and wait til it starts flowing out (have towels ready, this is messy), then quickly tighten it back up. Presto, instant oil pressure.

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