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Thread: Frame Slider Install - Final Question (I hope)

  1. #1
    Member dgoldan's Avatar
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    Frame Slider Install - Final Question (I hope)

    Okay, so I got the frame sliders, swingarm spools and clutch slider for my R1. I've seen some good sites with tips on how to make the holes nice and clean. Before I dig into it, I have the following questions:

    There were no instructions with any of them. Any suggestions on torque specs for them? I don't want to strip out the 6mm spool screws, but I don't want them falling out either. And torque settings for the other sliders?

    Once I get the plastic off, will it be obvious which bolts the sliders replace?

    I already put the swingarm spools on - what a difference in stability with my rear stand.

    Dan
    Dan

    '00 R1

  2. #2
    Loopty
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    No idea on the torque specs, just make sure it's tight. I threw a little threadlock on the bolt before putting mine on, worked like a charm.
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  3. #3
    Geriatric Curmudgeon Lifetime Supporter Nick_Ninja's Avatar
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    Torque Specs

    Dan,

    You can find torque specs per bolt/nut size here:

    http://raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc10.html
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  4. #4
    Member dgoldan's Avatar
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    Re: Torque Specs

    Quote Originally Posted by Nick_Ninja
    Dan,

    You can find torque specs per bolt/nut size here:

    http://raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc10.html
    Great website - Thanks!

    Dan
    Dan

    '00 R1

  5. #5
    Senior Member BlueDevil's Avatar
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    U have an 01 or earlier I assume if U have to cut? Anyway, the R1 sliders mount to the engine bolts. Make sure they are to spec and lock tighted. They will losen and they arent as tight as U might think they should be. I have the 02 manual and I think the spec is the same. Anyway, I had an 00 R1 before and drilled my fairing out to put the sliders on. I also did a few others that day too. Including an R6. Its not to hard but it takes a lot of measuring to make sure its right. Remeber this one thing. Measure it 100 times and cut once. It will save U in the end. If U need some tips hit me up.

    Tools needed:
    Form of measuring unit
    Sharpie marker
    hole saw (bit)
    drill
    masking tape

    U may need someone or thing to hold the fairing while U cut. Sometimes it catches and will spin it around. Dont want that to happen. Let me know if U need more info......
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  6. #6
    Member dgoldan's Avatar
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    Thanks Dion - will do.

    Here's what I found in a search:

    Fairing Mods, Frame Slider Installation - How to cut smooth, correct holes in your fairing for a full sized mushroom.

    In order to measure and cut the plastic I used a set of calipers and a hole saw. I first covered the area with masking tape (to keep the plastic from splintering and also to mark the spot to cut) then took the calipers and marked the distance between the fairing bolt and the engine mount bolt (center to center). On your fairing, draw a half circle using a pen and the calipers. Next I took a measurement from one of the lower fairing 1/4 turn holes to the engine mount bolt and made the same half circle mark on the fairing. The two lines should intersect at a point, and that will be the center hole for your hole saw drill bit. I also took another measurement from another lower fairing 1/4 turn hole and made another mark on the fairing just to make sure. All 3 lines should intersect at one point. You can't go wrong. Make sure you go slow with the hole saw and have someone else hold the fairing while you cut it.

    By the way, how did you torque your steering head nuts on your R1? I don't have a spanner in my kit that will fit it and the dealer I talked to quoted me a price of $75 for the wrench - not in stock. I've got a torque wrench; anyone have a spanner with a 1/2" hole?

    Dan
    Dan

    '00 R1

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgoldan
    Thanks Dion - will do.

    By the way, how did you torque your steering head nuts on your R1? I don't have a spanner in my kit that will fit it and the dealer I talked to quoted me a price of $75 for the wrench - not in stock. I've got a torque wrench; anyone have a spanner with a 1/2" hole?

    Dan
    With a big-ass metric socket. You're welcome to browse my selection and see if any fit your bike, if not, $8 and a trip to sears will have you set.

  8. #8
    Member dgoldan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rforsythe
    With a big-ass metric socket. You're welcome to browse my selection and see if any fit your bike, if not, $8 and a trip to sears will have you set.
    Great idea! I didn't know a socket would grab it - I thought I had to have a spanner. I'll go that route. I've got up to 24mm sockets, but bigger is always better.

    Dan
    Dan

    '00 R1

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgoldan
    Quote Originally Posted by rforsythe
    With a big-ass metric socket. You're welcome to browse my selection and see if any fit your bike, if not, $8 and a trip to sears will have you set.
    Great idea! I didn't know a socket would grab it - I thought I had to have a spanner. I'll go that route. I've got up to 24mm sockets, but bigger is always better.

    Dan
    I use sockets on mine ... then again I've never tightened up an R1 before. But if you're going to Cal's tonight you're more than welcome to stop by and see if my stuff fits (I live about a mile from there). Usually steering head nuts need 28mm or larger, some take up to 32-34mm.

  10. #10
    Senior Member BlueDevil's Avatar
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    By the way, how did you torque your steering head nuts on your R1? I don't have a spanner in my kit that will fit it and the dealer I talked to quoted me a price of $75 for the wrench - not in stock. I've got a torque wrench; anyone have a spanner with a 1/2" hole?

    Dan[/quote]


    U dont need one. The spanner for the rear shock works fine. Or a gixxer one is the perfect size as well if U have a gixxer buddy to borrow one from.

    DO NOT PAY A DEALER FOR THIS EASY JOB!!!! They quoted me 120.00 and seriously its not hard at all.

    I took all the plastics off and put a floor jack under the headers. Get the front off the ground a little bit. Take the top bolt off and U will see the bearings. The spanner from the rear shock worked fine for me to twist them tight. It takes a little angle of the wrist but it works. The torque seting is only apprx 6.5 lbs (If I remember right) so dont turn it to tight. A good way to tell is the rubber washer in there. If U turn it to tight it will squish the rubber washer out the side of the bearings. If U dont have a torque wrench turn it slowly till its tight but no damage or movement has occured to the rubber washer. There should be a little lock in there too that holds each bearing in 1 position with the others. Make sure this is on there and correctly in place. Put the top bolt back on and she is ready to go. It takes longer to get the plastics off, than to do the job. A buddy and I got it done in about a half hour using the serv manual.

    Good luck.
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  11. #11
    Member dgoldan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueDevil
    The torque seting is only apprx 6.5 lbs (If I remember right) so dont turn it to tight.
    Looks about right. My 98-00 service manual shows 28Nm (20.6 ft/lbs) for the initial tightening and 9Nm (6.6 ft/lbs or 80 in lbs) for the final torque.

    I found this to be useful since nothing in my manual is in ft/lbs - http://www.metrication.com/cgi-bin/c...uantity=torque

    Thanks again for the tips.

    Dan
    Dan

    '00 R1

  12. #12
    Member Boy Scout's Avatar
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    Dan,

    I realize these instructions aren't for your bike, so they may or may not prove to be useful to you, but here's an interesting technique for precisely locating the point to drill. Different tutorials with different photos, but same general technique: RC51, 900RR, F4.
    Nate
    '07 CBR600RR

  13. #13
    Member dgoldan's Avatar
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    Okay, while I was at Coyote this morning I thought I would ask their opinion on how to torque steering head bearings. The guy at parts said not to bother with either a special wrench or a torque wrench. he said use the factory spanner (which my bike seems to be missing) and do it by feel. He said if the front end is off the ground, you should have to pull the bars 1-2" to each side before they fall all the way on their own.

    Anyone concur with this?

    Dan
    Dan

    '00 R1

  14. #14
    Member dgoldan's Avatar
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    Alright, one last question (I hope) on this slider install stuff. I got a pair of frame sliders and a clutch slider for my R1. Clutch slider bolts right on - looks great. I go to put on the left frame slider (since that's the one I don't have to cut for) and the spindle doesn't fit into the frame hole like the clutch slider did. It sticks out, away from the frame - doesn't look right to me.

    So I contact the guy who sold me the frame sliders. He says that's the way it's supposed to fit - not supposed to fit into the hole in the frame, but mounts outside of it. Doesn't look or sound right to me, nor does it seem that it would be very strong that way. Since I have no experience with these, could someone(s) comment on whether I'm being duped? Maybe I'll just have the spindles turned down 1/4" or so to make them fit.

    Thanks,
    Dan
    Dan

    '00 R1

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    Member rocktboy's Avatar
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    Dan if I remember correctly you have a 2000 R1 like mine?
    I am not sure what you mean by "spindle sticking out" ?
    Any chance you can take pics and post them?

    On the left side of my R1 there is really no "hole" for the frame slider. You are basically just attaching the slider to your frame with the supplied bolt.
    member of rat's nest off-roading club.

  16. #16
    Member dgoldan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rocktboy
    Dan if I remember correctly you have a 2000 R1 like mine?
    I am not sure what you mean by "spindle sticking out" ?
    Any chance you can take pics and post them?

    On the left side of my R1 there is really no "hole" for the frame slider. You are basically just attaching the slider to your frame with the supplied bolt.
    Yes it's a 2000 R1. Here a a few pics.


    This is the clutch slider, the small "spindle" fits inside the frame hole so that the slider mounts completely flush.



    Here is picture of a left frame slider that I found on eBay.



    Here is my left frame slider, next to the intended mounting hole.



    When mounted, the spindle does not fit in the hole and it does not sit flush, like the clutch slider and the other frame slider picture. Since there is a difference, and most of the others I have seen are flush, I'm just trying to find out if it's correct.

    Thanks,
    Dan
    Dan

    '00 R1

  17. #17
    Member dgoldan's Avatar
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    C'mon - A little help here guys (and girls). I know a whole bunch of you have frame sliders.

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    Well I can't speak for the pre-02 R1's (the setup on mine is not like yours), but I think the skinnier piece of the slider should fit into the opening, and from the looks of the second picture, it doesn't quite fit. If that's the case (hard to tell for sure from the angle of both pictures), then I think the strength of the assembly may be comprimised because there's a spot where the bolt has no support, making it an ideal place for it to bend or even snap.

    I would double-check with the vendor.

  19. #19
    Member dgoldan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spiderman
    Well I can't speak for the pre-02 R1's (the setup on mine is not like yours), but I think the skinnier piece of the slider should fit into the opening, and from the looks of the second picture, it doesn't quite fit. If that's the case (hard to tell for sure from the angle of both pictures), then I think the strength of the assembly may be comprimised because there's a spot where the bolt has no support, making it an ideal place for it to bend or even snap.

    I would double-check with the vendor.
    Thanks Spidi, that's what I was thinking also. The vendor "claims" that's how it's supposed to be. I'm skeptical. Looks like it would be weaker to me as well.

    Dan
    Dan

    '00 R1

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