Chain maintenance info:

[CYCLE_MONKEY]

Perhaps make this a sticky, mods? Thanks!
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DID website: (Note: they do NOT recommend the use of a "solvent" like kerosene though they don't specifically list that). Also, they say do NOT use even a soft brush on O or X-ring chains because they can damage the O/X-rings.
http://www.didchain.com/chainMaintenance.html


Info from RK: (Note: they ok the use of WD-40 ONLY to displace water after washing, but chain lube will do the same thing because it's oil as well.
http://www.rkexcelamerica.com/faq.html#oring


From the Tsubaki site: (Note: They say do NOT use kerosene: "To clean your Tsubaki chain, it is first necessary to raise the motorcycle on its centre stand with the engine off and the transmission in neutral. Then rotate the rear wheel of the motorcycle (using care to keep your fingers away from the sprockets and chain), spray a moisture displacement lubricant to one side of the chain. After 2 or 3 full revolutions, switch sides and repeat. In this manner you have floated the dirt off the chain and now you need to wipe off the chain with a clean cloth to remove the excess lubricant and dirt residue. Never use a flammable solvent such as gasoline, benzine or kerosene. Additionally, never use water, detergents, steam cleaner or a coarse brush as these damage the chain."). Detergent being things like "Simple Green".

Basically, exactly the method I use.

http://www.tsubaki-rider.com/?type=maintenance

[Airreed]

CM-
Funny that you posted this today, as I just cleaned (with Kerosene) and waxed my chain. Also, adjusted the chain sag too!

[Repsol a095]

I am sure that this debate can go on forever, but kerosene kicks butt, and when used periodically, it has never caused a problem for me. However, I can imagine that if you use it every week, the o rings will begin to deteriorate. In conjunction with lube, I feel that it will be just fine.

Please pay no attention to me as I have no clue as to what I am talking about. It's late, and I am still high from the Kerosene fumes. Carry on!

[dirkterrell]

WD-40 and rags are how I have always done it. I had to use a toothbrush on the newly acquired '86 Interceptor's chain today but only on the outside. But I never let my chains get that bad.

Dirk

[Stangracer85]

I use trusty Motorex 611 chain cleaner and then lube it afterwards and am always pleased with the results I get but a good sticky nonetheless.

[PunyJuney]

I use this, it's 4 bucks at Lowes.
http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motor...chain-lube.htm
and when ever I buy the hubby new tighty whities the old ones (yes washed) are saved as chain rags. They are the perfect size, single use and they even have a handy little pocket.

[dragos13]

WD-40 and rags are how I have always done it. I had to use a toothbrush on the newly acquired '86 Interceptor's chain today but only on the outside. But I never let my chains get that bad.

Dirk

+1 on WD-40.

The problem with chain lube is it makes the chain sticky, thus keeping dirt stuck to it and wearing it down quicker. Its almost like the stuff was created just so you have to replace the chain sooner.

[CYCLE_MONKEY]

Couple thoughts from a guy that gets 20-25k miles out of a chain:

I tried kerosene ONCE in about '84, the o-rings came apart IMMEDIATELY, and the brand new quality DID chain was done about 2k miles later. Kerosene is a SOLVENT, and will dissolve and wash the chain lube out of your chain in places you can't replace it, like WD-40 below. Not only that, but it's specifically recommended against by Tsubaki, and hinted at being recommended against by another mfg'r.

WD-40 is a light, penetrating oil, that is sometimes used as a CUTTING lubricant when drilling/machining etc. It is NOT meant to lube anything but a bicycle chain. REAL chain lube is meant for the incredibly high impact and pressure forces that the chain roller and sprocket tooth interface see. WD-40 will get into and dissolve the lube in your chain, and wash it out (lighter oils dissolve/dilute heavier oils). I would NOT use it to spray the chain, although it might be safe to spray it on a rag to clean the outside of the chain, though I'd never do that even.

Do NOT use any solvent, even Simple Green, and ESPECIALLY brake cleaner (as some wag on Gixxer.com suggested). Again, it will wash the lube out of places you can't get the spray into.

Now that that's done..... I only use a quality chain lube SPECIFICALLY designed for streetbike use. I used to use PJ1 Blue Label, but I've been trying something new (mostly because I couldn't get PJ1 in ID), forget the name now, it looks more like lithium grease when applied. I haven't been using it long so I can't vouch for the longevity yet. Anyways, those lubes are specifically made with a very high viscosity when the propellant and volatiles evaporate (those are there to cut the viscosity and allow the lube to be sprayed out that tiny tube) so that it does not get squeezed out under the tremendous pressure leading to metal-to-metal contact (same idea as your plain bearings in your engine), and also makes it sticky to keep from getting flung off. I usually spray a really good coating on the chain, more than it needs, which washes away grime and dirt, turning the wheel always BY HAND, then simply wipe the excess away with a rag while it's still a little runny. The chain lube before losing the volatiles will wash the chain just as good as dousing it with WD-40 or the like and any lube you wash out get's replaced by more lube as opposed to WD-40 if you don't get that spot with the lube later. The chain stays pretty clean, as clean as you'd ever need except for show, and lasts a long time (I get 20-25k miles). Use a grunge brush if you like, but that's really more for dirtbikes, and is specifically recommended against doing that by some of the chain mfg'rs because it can damage the O-rings. If you must have a spotless chain good for showbike photography, obviously you worry more about posing than riding......

[dirkterrell]

Couple thoughts from a guy that gets 20-25k miles out of a chain:

WD-40 is a light, penetrating oil, that is sometimes used as a CUTTING lubricant when drilling/machining etc. It is NOT meant to lube anything but a bicycle chain. REAL chain lube is meant for the incredibly high impact and pressure forces that the chain roller and sprocket tooth interface see. WD-40 will get into and dissolve the lube in your chain, and wash it out (lighter oils dissolve/dilute heavier oils). I would NOT use it to spray the chain, although it might be safe to spray it on a rag to clean the outside of the chain, though I'd never do that even.

FWIW, I have been spraying the hell out of my chains with WD-40 (for cleaning every 1K miles or so) for the better part of 30 years and I have never had a single chain-related problem. I get 20-30k miles out of a chain. After clean/dry, I use the PJ1 blue label chain lube. Now, I wouldn't let it sit there and soak in it for days, but clearly spraying it down and wiping it off doesn't cause any problems.

I get the feeling this is one of those religious topics where lots of misinformation gets spread around on the net.

Dirk

[CYCLE_MONKEY]

FWIW, I have been spraying the hell out of my chains with WD-40 (for cleaning every 1K miles or so) for the better part of 30 years and I have never had a single chain-related problem. I get 20-30k miles out of a chain. After clean/dry, I use the PJ1 blue label chain lube. Now, I wouldn't let it sit there and soak in it for days, but clearly spraying it down and wiping it off doesn't cause any problems.

I get the feeling this is one of those religious topics where lots of misinformation gets spread around on the net.

Dirk

True! There's some Voodoo to chains. Being a mechanical guy, I'm conservative by nature, and if the chain manufacturers recommend against it, knowing the mechanics of lubrication properties, I'll follow their lead. I used the Blue Label for many years, but didn't find any up there and had to use something else. I hope that works as well, and will post when I have to replace the chain again. I find if you REALLY spray the chain until it's dripping, it cleans it off before the volatiles evaporate just like WD-40 does.

If anyone rivet's their own chain (like I do), there's some good pics on one of the sites about what a good stake looks like vs. a bad one. All in all, I thought there was some really good info from the mfg'rs.

[OUTLAWD]

Use WD to get the water/grime off, then wipe with a rag (used that motorex stuff once, but can't justify the pricetage), then use Juney's Multi-Use on the street bike, and just use the WD to keep the racebike's chain clean

[Bueller]

After reading this I just bought a nice big new can of WD-40 and cleaned all my chains with a grunge brush. They are telling you not to use flammable solvent because they don't want you to catch yourself on fire! Kerosene and diesel fuel work very well and just because some 18 years ago the orings in a chain swelled up and disintegrated on you, does not mean they will do it today. People have been using it sucsessfuly for years, including myself. Both of the references you posted suggested using WD-40 to displace moisture if chain was washed or to clean it. And you will find plenty of people who will swear up and down that WD will kill the o rings and to never use it.



This thread should be labeled "How I prefer to maintain my chain"

[CYCLE_MONKEY]

After reading this I just bought a nice big new can of WD-40 and cleaned all my chains with a grunge brush. They are telling you not to use flammable solvent because they don't want you to catch yourself on fire! Kerosene and diesel fuel work very well and just because some 18 years ago the orings in a chain swelled up and disintegrated on you, does not mean they will do it today. People have been using it sucsessfuly for years, including myself. Both of the references you posted suggested using WD-40 to displace moisture if chain was washed or to clean it. And you will find plenty of people who will swear up and down that WD will kill the o rings and to never use it.



This thread should be labeled "How I prefer to maintain my chain"

I think you should have gotten some brake cleaner and a steel brush to REALLY get your chain clean!

True, WD-40 to DISPLACE moisture, but if you don't get enough of the lube on afterwards, you stand a good chance of doing damage, right? Plus, I think noobs hear "use WD-40" and they think that means as lubrication. So why not just use chain lube (any oil will displace water) and accomplish the same thing without the "possible" problems than WD-40 CAN cause? Just like Tsubaki specifically recommends? I never said WD-40 will kill the O-rings, but kerosene DID, for a fact, and Tsubaki specifically recommends against using it (what do they know, they're just Mechanical Engineers who spec'd the O-ring material and internal lube out, right? , and the other says don't use solvents (but doesn't list kerosene specifically though it IS a solvent to a heavy oil/chain lube). Yes, there have been some incremental changes in chains, but having spec'd many O-rings in my career, I'm pretty confident that they are little, if any, different in material since then. I'll stick to what the Engineers atTsubaki tell me, thanks.

As always, people have freewill to do what they want to do, right, wrong, or indifferent. I posted this as information, because I thought there was good stuff from the chain manufacturers in the links. Take from it what you will, if you will.

[UglyDogRacing]

Never heard of kerosene damaging O-rings, or anything else made of rubber. I've been using it to clean DID and RK chains, plus Renthal dirtbike chains, for years and I've never had an o-ring come apart. There was a time that DID's website recommended using kerosene to clean chains. If you look now, they show you pictures of how to clean your chain using DID chain cleaner. They're just trying to get you to buy their product.

[hcr25]

A better question might be how many people on the CSC actually clean/maintain their chain before it starts to make noise?

I also use WD-40 and have been doing so the past 15 years that I have raced. No negative chain issues caused be WD-40 to date.

[Ricky]

There's a difference between using kerosene (or any petro solvent) to clean a chain, and using it to ruin a chain (i.e. soaking it).

I've always used Gunk Engine Brite degreaser (not kerosene, but petroleum based, and you can tell it's kerosene from the smell) to clean my chain on my current bike, and I'm probably a bit more of a stickler than most people about its cleanliness. I don't think my chain has seen more than 1k miles without a full chain clean, wax, and adjustment. After 3 years and almost 14k miles, not an issue with my chain. I warm up the chain with a ride, put it on a stand, spray liberally with degreaser while the tire is moving, then put the bike in gear and spin off the excess. It never sits on there, and is only used to remove the gunk on the chain and sprockets. Then wipe the chain clean and add chain wax.

All rubbers are not equal. Butyl, natural, and silicone rubbers are ruined by Kerosene, whereas nitrile is unaffected by it. I'm not about to begin to guess what kind of rubber is used in chains today, but I'd be willing to bet that the compound isn't the same as it was in 1984. A lot has changed since then, like the introduction of nitrile and other rubbers.

Great info nonetheless!!!! Understanding that there's no need to penetrate the o-rings of the chain with some sea foam or something, is an education in itself.

[Bueller]

I think you should have gotten some brake cleaner and a steel brush to REALLY get your chain clean!

This was never an option and makes no sense.

True, WD-40 to DISPLACE moisture, but if you don't get enough of the lube on afterwards, you stand a good chance of doing damage, right?

And you are basing this on what? If you do a half assed job in the first place what's the differnce?

Plus, I think noobs hear "use WD-40" and they think that means as lubrication. So why not just use chain lube (any oil will displace water) and accomplish the same thing without the "possible" problems than WD-40 CAN cause?

Your references are recommending using it why are you contradicting them since you trust them so much?

I'll stick to what the Engineers atTsubaki tell me, thanks.

I have worked with plenty of "engineered" crap that makes you wonder WTF were they thinking, just 'cause you can spell engineer don't make you a good one. We have years and year of real world experience that tells us what works and what doesn't, just because an "expert" who is covering his and his companies ass, or like Jim said trying to sell you a product, says it's so doesn't make it the ultimate truth.

As always, people have freewill to do what they want to do, right, wrong, or indifferent. I posted this as information, because I thought there was good stuff from the chain manufacturers in the links. Take from it what you will, if you will.

Thanks for the effort

[OUTLAWD]

A better question might be how many people on the CSC actually clean/maintain their chain before it starts to make noise?

true story...and from my experience, it may be beneficial to start a thread about when to change tires, ya know...before the cords are showing

[bulldog]

I have been using kerosene to clean my chain for years and never had any issues

[Bueller]

it may be beneficial to start a thread about when to change tires, ya know...before the cords are showing

Why? If I can get another 500 mi. on the cords, that more than justifies it.

[Ricky]

I have been using kerosene to clean my chain for years and never had any issues

The big question is though, HOW do you use kerosene to clean it? Spray it on and right off, or do you soak it in a pail of kerosene between rides?

[Bueller]

Since most sportbikes have riveted chains I don't think there is much danger of soaking them.

[hcr25]

Since most sportbikes have riveted chains I don't think there is much danger of soaking them.

Again this is the CSC so anything is possible

[Ricky]

Since most sportbikes have riveted chains I don't think there is much danger of soaking them.

How does riveted vs. clip type make a difference?