How to properly tie down a sportbike in a trailer?

[WolFeYeZ]

Found the bike, got the trailer and have the hitching gear now. Lastly I need to find out how to properly tie down a bike. Also, I would need to know how many to buy. Let me know

Also, the last thing I am yet to buy is ties. If anyone in the Denver Metro area has some they can lend for a couple days, that would be awesome.

[Zach929rr]

You can buy a decent set of tie downs at Harbor Freight for like $20. If you don't have canyon dancers, I run the ratchet ties through the area between the forks and frame between the upper and lower triples, such that the actual strap is pulling down on the top of the bottom triple tree. I run the hook back to the mounting point on the trailer, such that both hooks are attached to the same point on the trailer.

I also use 2 simple "pull" type straps (as opposed to the ratcheting type) to snug up the rear of the bike via the passenger pegs or other acceptable mounting point near the rear of the bike. FWIW I only use front straps with the sumo. Lastly, try to get any straps you using pulling (at least slightly) in a forward direction.

[SloBlue]

I got a Canyon Dancer Bar Harness. Clerks at moto shops told me they didn't like them and talked me out of it for a while, but I'm really glad I picked one up. I use it a lot - down to Faster Motorsports for service, out to Cali for Moto GP. I love it. Excellent way to spend $30.

[Captain Obvious]

9 out of 10 times, canyon dancers are the best. Occasionally when your tie down points are high (sidewalls of a pickup) the dancer makes life difficult. Def worth the price to have one per bike.

I have 20 or so tie downs, but I use them for all sorts of stuff other than motorcycles. Have been collecting for years.

For around own easy driving, sometimes I only tie the front down. Road trips or any trip longer than a 10 minute run, I use tiedowns on each corner.

Tighten the fronts first, tighten them down so you compress the forks just a touch, and then give it another tug. You don't have to torque them do much your suspense bottoms out. I don't like to leave them compressed if the bike sits over night when loaded. You want the tie down ends to be out to the sides as mich as you can, NOT straight down from the handle bars if able. Tie the back to any metal part that is hard rearsets etc. Keep in mind the straps will move a bit when driving, so protect paint from the straps else you will rib through your paintjob.

Oh, and when you get tiedowns, the more hook the better, not all tie downs are equal. The more hook on the metal ends the less likely they are to jump off while driving.

Once set, take the look straps and tie them up so they don't flap around. I usually give 1 knot right at the ratchet mechanism in the event it lets go, will lock itself during release if an oopsie happens.

[WolFeYeZ]

Perfect, Thank you guys Still looking for straps, but can always buy those at Uhaul really.

Also thanks to Vellos for sending me a nice video that even used the trailer that I will have to use.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJnXtP_3jLI

[Sarge]

I've got four straps and a set of canyon dancers if you want to come to the Springs to pick them up. I'll even give you a quick tie-down lesson if you want.

I have to say though, I think I paid maybe $40-$50 for everything, might be worth investing in a set of your own.

[jbnwc]

I like the Canyon Dancers, but you gotta be careful with them. I wrecked my wife's Convertibars when I used the new plastic cup style CDancer. - They can put a lot of torque on the ends of your bars.

[Airreed]

I have a Canyon Dancer you can borrow along with numerous straps.
Shoot me a PM if you want to borrow them.
I'm located in SE Aurora/Centennial area and work near I-70/I-25.

Jason

[CaneZach]

Pit Bull trailer restraint system FTW

[Bueller]

Pit Bull trailer restraint system FTW

Price tag will choke a horse, I'll just stay old fashioned.

Soft straps are your friend.

[FZRguy]

I have soft straps and some spare tie downs that you are welcome to use. Don't care for the Canyon Dancer myself.

[TinkerinWstuff]

Don't use rear grab handles as a tie down point

[brennahm]

If you're going to tie down the rear, try understanding why you're doing so.

The goal is to keep the bike straight (to prevent odd torquing and tucking the front tire which will lay the bike down) and to keep it from bouncing too much (really not an issue if the front is tied down properly.

The easiest way I've found to do it is just loop the strap around the rim and tire and hook to the sides of the trailer. Keeps the bike straight, won't bend anything, easy to do.

[WolFeYeZ]

Got some tie downs arranged now. Thanks everyone

[Shodown]

I had a Canyon Dancer rig and it destroyed my grips. I just use simple tie down rings around the triple clamp then ratchet straps hooked to them.

Here's my setup:

The pics make it appear that the tie down rings are pushing on the fairings, but in reality they are barely touching them. The front straps arent very tight at all, the wheel chock is doing most of the work while the straps just help it from swaying.

[Captain Obvious]

Price tag will choke a horse, I'll just stay old fashioned.

Yeah, not all of us are loaded.

I do have one of these for my open trailer, it helps when loading etc but straps are still needed.

[675Rider]

I use a Bike Grab chock then put soft straps around the lower fork thru the caliper and ratchet strap it a little forward and to the side. Just tight enough to keep the tire in there good. This keeps the stress off your suspension. The bike grap holds the bike up while I strap the front down, so i can do it all easily by myself.

The rear I use soft straps around the rear sub frame near the passenger pegs, then ratchet strap it more forward to keep the bike firmly in the chock. This only compresses the suspension a little.

I also put 1x1 wood boards on each side of my rear to keep it from moving any.

This set up has worked great for me and lets the suspension absorb the bumps instead of having to compress the crap out of it. I can shake the shit out of the bike and trailer and it doesnt budge. Ive traveled cross country and several track days this way. I too dont care for canyon dancers, rough on your bars and grips.

[CaneZach]

Price tag will choke a horse, I'll just stay old fashioned.

Soft straps are your friend.

Yeah, not all of us are loaded.

I do have one of these for my open trailer, it helps when loading etc but straps are still needed.

Gentlemen, let's not make it sound like the Pit Bull system costs more than the trailer itself. I realize this is the internet, where fits of hyperbole are the norm, but I picked mine up for $250. Is it more expensive than tie-downs and ratchet straps? Absolutely! Do I load my bike by myself in about thirty seconds? Again, absolutely. Do I run the risk of the blowing a fork seal? Nope.

[Bueller]

$225 more than I am willing to pay for something I have been doing for 35+ years and have never blown a seal yet. And the only time anyone has ever helped me load a bike was when I crashed at Pueblo and needed a hand getting a fuckered up bike into the back of my pickup with a fuckered up arm.

Seriously those are nice but just not worth it to me.

[CYCLE_MONKEY]

I had a Canyon Dancer rig and it destroyed my grips. I just use simple tie down rings around the triple clamp then ratchet straps hooked to them.

Here's my setup:

The pics make it appear that the tie down rings are pushing on the fairings, but in reality they are barely touching them. The front straps arent very tight at all, the wheel chock is doing most of the work while the straps just help it from swaying.

@Shodown: I like the front wheel chock, I made a wooden platform with one with some tiedown rings on it in case the covered trailer I used (i.e. U-Haul) didn't have any rings. A couple comments though, it may look like the straps are barely touching the fairings, but they can still damage or break them, especially if as you mentioned the straps aren't tight as the bike is going to move around more. I've seen a LOT of broken fairings from tying it down like that, and, I use a canyon dancer and have never had any damage at all. Also, I'd put the rear tiedown straps around the bottom of the subframe rails, instead of the weaker cast rear footpeg brackets. Just my .02.......

BTW, I like the Pit-Bull system, but would rather it lock on the front wheel as it'd make it a lot easier to use I think.

[Zach929rr]

$225 more than I am willing to pay for something I have been doing for 35+ years and have never blown a seal yet. And the only time anyone has ever helped me load a bike was when I crashed at Pueblo and needed a hand getting a fuckered up bike into the back of my pickup with a fuckered up arm.

Seriously those are nice but just not worth it to me.

HEY! Let money bags over there spend his money how he pleases.

[sprtbkbabe]

Two ways I load a bike by myself:

1 - get a locking sportchock
2 - have a Cycle Cynch ready (Canyon dancers are the Sux IMHO)

The tie downs will act as support if the chock is either bolted in or in a secure position

[CYCLE_MONKEY]

Two ways I load a bike by myself:

1 - get a locking sportchock
2 - have a Cycle Cynch ready (Canyon dancers are the Sux IMHO)

The tie downs will act as support if the chock is either bolted in or in a secure position

I like that chock better than the cheaper one I have (in the link in a previous post), and would like to get it if I have to trailer my bike more.

[sprtbkbabe]

I like that chock better than the cheaper one I have (in the link in a previous post), and would like to get it if I have to trailer my bike more.

Baxley has an actual trailer one that can be permanently bolted in.

But, I like the removable sportchock, as seen here, for the convenience of when the racebike, without its side stand, can get rolled up after coming off of the track and I can't get the pitbull stand in place behind the bike.