Chain and sprocket replacement

[crypto0793]

Ok so I just took my R1 in to get the chain tightened and they said I need to replace the chain and sprockets, Im thinking about picking this set up

http://www.amazon.com/RK-Chain-Sproc...6458266&sr=8-3

And I was wondering what a shop up here charges to do the job or is it possible for me to do the job. This will be my first time. I have experience working on cars but I’m still learning on the bike any help would be great.

[spdu4ia]

if your gonna change all of it do a 520 conversion. It is doable by yourself if you have some mechanical knowledge. Involves removing the wheel, cutting the old chain off swapping the front sprocket then swapping the rear on the wheel , slap the new chain on and readjust your chain tension. If you have someone to help you out thats done it that will be a great help.

[brennahm]

Do NOT do a 520 conversion. Yes a lot of people like it, but unless you're racing and need that extra 10th on the track, stick with something that will last longer.

You will need a chain press to install the new chain. An impact wrench makes the front sprocket a snap but isn't necessary.

This isn't terribly difficult but it helps if someone here has time to show you how (a 6 pack can be a good bargaining tool). Good luck!

[crypto0793]

Do NOT do a 520 conversion. Yes a lot of people like it, but unless you're racing and need that extra 10th on the track, stick with something that will last longer.

You will need a chain press to install the new chain. An impact wrench makes the front sprocket a snap but isn't necessary.

This isn't terribly difficult but it helps if someone here has time to show you how (a 6 pack can be a good bargaining tool). Good luck!

Yeah im not racing I pretty much want to keep it simple and long lasting, I have the compressor and air tools. and can pick up a chain press I just need to find a reliable chain and sprockets

[rfranks303]

If you atempt it can I sit in. I know how to do it but never have and would like to see it done. And of course I have pitchins on the beer. I also have all the tools minus the chain riveter.

[crypto0793]

If you atempt it can I sit in. I know how to do it but never have and would like to see it done. And of course I have pitchins on the beer. I also have all the tools minus the chain riveter.

Yeah no problem more the better keeps me from screwing up lol I have to find and order the chain and sprockets but im planing for next week sometime "maybe" ill let you know thanks

[Zach929rr]

+1 to brenahamamamamas post. Dremel to get old chain off. Press to get it on. Leave old chain on and use the rear brake to loosen the counter sprocket before dremeling it off. Do NOT use the trans to break the counter.

[brennahm]

Sounds like you have an impact wrench? If not, you could borrow mine. Lemme know when you get a set, I may have time to come by. It's POSSIBLE I could get ahold of a chain rivet tool also.

[crypto0793]

Sounds like you have an impact wrench? If not, you could borrow mine. Lemme know when you get a set, I may have time to come by. It's POSSIBLE I could get ahold of a chain rivet tool also.

cool thanks. I do have an impact and I can get a Chain rivet tool.

Im looking at this chain set but im open to sugestions

http://www.amazon.com/RK-Chain-Sproc...6458266&sr=8-3

[fiveninerzero]

Do NOT do a 520 conversion.

Agreed. You have a 1000. All that torque will eat a 520 sprocket for lunch. You can do it yourself. A quick Google and youtube search will reveal many DIY and how-to's on chain and sprocket replacement.

Use a rivet master link and not a clip.

[crypto0793]

Agreed. You have a 1000. All that torque will eat a 520 sprocket for lunch. You can do it yourself. A quick Google and youtube search will reveal many DIY and how-to's on chain and sprocket replacement.

Use a rivet master link and not a clip.

The more and more i look into it, it doesnt seem as hard as i was making out to be, just dont wanna screw anything up

[brennahm]

That kit is a 520 kit, you want a 530.

Also, do steel sprockets, not aluminum. Have you priced the local joints?

[crypto0793]

That kit is a 520 kit, you want a 530.

Also, do steel sprockets, not aluminum. Have you priced the local joints?

not yet just started looking today. so 530 steel then. cool thanks

[crypto0793]

That kit is a 520 kit, you want a 530.

Also, do steel sprockets, not aluminum. Have you priced the local joints?

114 links or 112 links?

[brennahm]

I don't know what they take stock. Go long if not sure, you can always remove the extras. Also, the -1, +3 is nice, especially for CO unless a messed up speedometer drives you nuts.

[crypto0793]

Well i just ordered a 530 kit from RK. Steel sprockets and gold chain should be in next week sometime

[Zach929rr]

Bike master makes cheaper, same quality chains for cheaper if you don't need that gold bling factor.

[brennahm]

Like those neutron pads?

[Zach929rr]

Problem?

I have no problem with my pads. I don't know what Justin did wrong. Those neutrons are the best I have ran yet.

[crypto0793]

I didn’t notice the gold until after I ordered it but I got the kit for $180. my dad works at a Victory dealership in AZ and got me a good deal

[CYCLE_MONKEY]

As mentioned, stay with the 530 series chain. I would never even consider going to a 520 with a 1k, especially not on the street. Honestly, I found that the OEM sprockets are usually the best quality, and sometimes the front has some rubber damping pads on it to cut chain noise. That said, the set of Sprocket Specialties sprockets I bought SUCKED ASS. Steel front, hard anodized Al rear. Poor quality, the rear barely fit because the holes were misaligned, and took forever to get here. I just put on a set of Renthal sprockets (lightweight steel front hard anodized rear) at the end of last season, and was extremely impressed with their quality. The front was lightened with holes and dished out. The sprockets both had good tooth form, and the chamfered edges they SHOULD have, unlike the SS POS's. The hard (not regular) anodizing on aluminum (rear) means it basically has a surface hardness of a good steel, so it will last. I got a DID X-ring chain the last 2 times and had very little stretch. I get 20-25k out of my chain/sprocket sets.

As for the amount of links, they'll probably ship 120 links, and your manual should list how many you need IF you're using the stock gearing (teeth on sprockets). If your manual doesn't list it, you can call a dealer. When you cut the chain, you don't need to count links if you're careful. Line up the old chain even at one end with the new chain, and just make sure when you get to the other end of the old chain, you make sure the same type of link (inner or outer - though maybe 1/2 link shorter) is lined up on the new chain, and that's where you'll need to cut it.

I also have a 530 series chain breaker/swager if needed.

Good luck.

[brennahm]

Problem?

I have no problem with my pads. I don't know what Justin did wrong. Those neutrons are the best I have ran yet.

That'd be kinda hard to say since you put a brake line on at the same time. I was just giving you shit though.

[crypto0793]

As mentioned, stay with the 530 series chain. I would never even consider going to a 520 with a 1k, especially not on the street. Honestly, I found that the OEM sprockets are usually the best quality, and sometimes the front has some rubber damping pads on it to cut chain noise. That said, the set of Sprocket Specialties sprockets I bought SUCKED ASS. Steel front, hard anodized Al rear. Poor quality, the rear barely fit because the holes were misaligned, and took forever to get here. I just put on a set of Renthal sprockets (lightweight steel front hard anodized rear) at the end of last season, and was extremely impressed with their quality. The front was lightened with holes and dished out. The sprockets both had good tooth form, and the chamfered edges they SHOULD have, unlike the SS POS's. The hard (not regular) anodizing on aluminum (rear) means it basically has a surface hardness of a good steel, so it will last. I got a DID X-ring chain the last 2 times and had very little stretch. I get 20-25k out of my chain/sprocket sets.

As for the amount of links, they'll probably ship 120 links, and your manual should list how many you need IF you're using the stock gearing (teeth on sprockets). If your manual doesn't list it, you can call a dealer. When you cut the chain, you don't need to count links if you're careful. Line up the old chain even at one end with the new chain, and just make sure when you get to the other end of the old chain, you make sure the same type of link (inner or outer - though maybe 1/2 link shorter) is lined up on the new chain, and that's where you'll need to cut it.

I also have a 530 series chain breaker/swager if needed.

Good luck.

Thanks for the info, we will see how it goes

[jrhurt]

Sounds like maybe we could use a "tech" day for a few of us to change out our chains and sprockets together. I am planning on doing mine soon and wouldn't mind doing it together with others, I would rather mess up with somebody else!