Anyone Used A Garage Floor Sealer?

[MetaLord 9]

Before I move into the new garage, I want to seal the floor. With the amount that I work on bikes and trudge around the garage, oil and chemicals eventually get spilled, so I've heard of a couple products that seal the garage floor to prevent the oil soaking in and give the floor a nice look too. I've heard getting one with some kind of texture is key also.

Has anyone tried this or used one of these products? If so, what works, what doesn't, what would your recommend. Any hidden pitfalls that you came across while doing this?

Here's one of the products I've seen:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

Thanks in advance

[Sir Bacon Lube]

I've got two of those garage floor sealing kits that I never put in that I will part with. Since I'm moving, I won't be putting them in, so at least they won't go to waste if you need them.

[Penadam]

We had a garage floor we covered with heavy linoleum. Worked great at protecting the floor, but got super slippery when wet.

[modette99]

We had a garage floor we covered with heavy linoleum. Worked great at protecting the floor, but got super slippery when wet.

Tile also works good, but is supper slippery. In Mexico our 6 car garage was totally tiled...LOL

That Epoxy stuff does work if you put it on an untreated floor, I think I mistakenly put it on a sealed floor back in MI (a lot of builders put on a clear coat type finish to seal the floor...now I know). But our garage floor here is not treated...It soaks into the poors and is suppose to seal very good...its on my list to do here...got to insulate and drywall the rest of the garage first (got attic done with attic access). One thing is with the Epoxy you got to work f'ing fast it starts to set quickly...also the preparation takes time, moving stuff out of the garage and washing the floor very good and what have you.

[Tim K]

I used the exact product you linked. A friend of mine owns a big business doing exactly this kind of work, and he stressed the need for good prep work. Essentially, that means putting the coating down on a clean floor. I followed all the instructions about washing, etching, etc with the exception of one. I didn't allow the floor to dry overnight after I washed it and before I painted it.

Big mistake. When I rolled it down, there were places where the finish wouldn't even lay down on the concrete. I worked it down eventually, but as you might expect those areas have peeled up.

In the places where the floor was dry before application of the finish, it has held up quite well.

My friend also gave me a 5 gallon bucket of one of their industrial clear top coats. I used about half of it to go over the top of my floor and have the rest left over. I can't bring myself to throw it away, so it's yours if you come get it. There's probably enough to do at least another 3 car garage.

[cptschlongenheimer]

Painted one once with paint made for concrete floors. Looked nice, cleaned up okay-ish, cheap and easy though. About the same traction wet or dry as regular concrete wet or dry.

Edit: used an etch beforehand and followed all instructions.

[MetaLord 9]

I used the exact product you linked. A friend of mine owns a big business doing exactly this kind of work, and he stressed the need for good prep work. Essentially, that means putting the coating down on a clean floor. I followed all the instructions about washing, etching, etc with the exception of one. I didn't allow the floor to dry overnight after I washed it and before I painted it.

Big mistake. When I rolled it down, there were places where the finish wouldn't even lay down on the concrete. I worked it down eventually, but as you might expect those areas have peeled up.

In the places where the floor was dry before application of the finish, it has held up quite well.

My friend also gave me a 5 gallon bucket of one of their industrial clear top coats. I used about half of it to go over the top of my floor and have the rest left over. I can't bring myself to throw it away, so it's yours if you come get it. There's probably enough to do at least another 3 car garage.

What kind of prep was needed and did the kit come with any necessary chemicals?

You're saying clean the floor, but I'm assuming we're not talking soap and water here are we?

What's the benefit of the clear coat on a garage floor? Just look?

[rybo]

I've got two of those garage floor sealing kits that I never put in that I will part with. Since I'm moving, I won't be putting them in, so at least they won't go to waste if you need them.

Adam,

If Chris doesn't take them - I will. Let me know a price.

Scott

[Tim K]

What kind of prep was needed and did the kit come with any necessary chemicals?

You're saying clean the floor, but I'm assuming we're not talking soap and water here are we?

What's the benefit of the clear coat on a garage floor? Just look?

I power washed it with soap and water and then acid etched it with muriatic acid. I don't recall if that came in the kit, but I kinda think it did.

I did the clear coat because I knew I had screwed up the base coat. It didn't really change the look at all. It's supposed to be harder and more durable than the base coat alone.

I've also painted the floors in my cabinet shop with regular old garden variety floor paint. We do it there so it sweeps more easily. Those finishes are less durable but endlessly repairable. I run around the shops every couple of years with a roller filled with the leftovers and just fling it around the high wear areas.

[Cap'n Crunch]

I have that exact product on my floor and it's held up pretty good for the last 4 years. As stated above, the key to these coatings really getting the floor clean. If you have any oil spots you really have to scrub them several times to as good of a bond as possible. Once the floor is clean, the product includes a mild acid that you put on the floor to etch the concrete. Once this process is done, make sure to really clean the floor again. When I bought this stuff the clear coat came sepearte. It may come with the box now, but if it doesn't I highly recomend it. Without the clear coat, the floor will be a dull grey. The clear coat give the floor a shine and also includes a sand substance that will give the floor traction.
Overall, I've been happy with my floor. The inside of my garage looks like a show room and anytime I spill oil or fluids, I can wipes it up with a paper towel and there is no staining.

[Sir Bacon Lube]

Adam,

If Chris doesn't take them - I will. Let me know a price.

Scott

http://www.lowes.com/pd_245708-4-002...poxy&facetInfo=

$100 for both

[modette99]

Yep the prep work is a pain. I washed with soap the whole floor, scrubbing, then I did the etching with the acid that comes in the kit. I then used soap and water and scrubbed the floor again, I then let it dry for a few days (back in MI very humid so it takes time here it be dry over night I'm sure). Oh I also used concrete caulk (paint-able) and filled in the cracks that develop over time in the joints. The prep work is such a pain is why I have yet to do it in this house...its on the list if you have a house built even if you do it yourself go over and do it before your using the space...otherwise you got to think where to put the shit you have collected over the years. In MI I did one side at a time...I also went to the extreme and let it cure for a week. I think total cure time is like 3 days if I remember that right.

[Matrix]

I have had mixed results from that cheap stuff from Lowes. Modern concrete actually has a sealent on it and to apply the stuff correctly you need to remove it. If you check with any of the pro's they actually do a few mm worth of grind off of the floor before applying their stuff (makes a big mess).
My advice, is if you want it to look nice and professional have a professional do it. I think the quote I got 6 months ago on mine was in the ballpark of $1,200 and they even painted some areas to match the floor.

[modette99]

I have had mixed results from that cheap stuff from Lowes. Modern concrete actually has a sealent on it and to apply the stuff correctly you need to remove it. If you check with any of the pro's they actually do a few mm worth of grind off of the floor before applying their stuff (makes a big mess).
My advice, is if you want it to look nice and professional have a professional do it. I think the quote I got 6 months ago on mine was in the ballpark of $1,200 and they even painted some areas to match the floor.

Yep some builders put on sealant, the kit tells you how to test this but the basics is to tape down a piece of clear plastic to the garage floor, if you get moisture (water drops) then you have a sealed garage floor (only step I did not do in MI). I know mine is not sealed here because the water soaks in unlike in MI it seemed to roll off. (hmmm maybe its the reverse...well either case the package tells you)

My parents new house in TN they had build had sealed floors. Sealed floors are the same as using this stuff...just not attractive but it does protect the floors in either case from soaked in stains. Builder was so dumb they put on too much sealer causing the garage doors to be glued down...my father had to grind the sealer off along the garage doors.

If its a new home, just have the builder seal them....who cares if it is colored. For me its about looks...so I do care...LOL

[CYCLE_MONKEY]

Like any paint job, prepwork is the key.

Now, you COULD buy those rubber interlocking tiles. Those are pretty cool, and replaceable.

[Ezzzzy1]

I did a lot of research when I bought my kit... From what I got a lot of the success of these comes from the prep. The more you penetrate the concrete to clean it of any oils the better the epoxy will hold. That said everyone that I talked to said stay away from the rust-oleum, behr and quikrete and I would agree. Two of my neighbors went that route and regret it big time. Both are pealing (have been since a few months after) and do not really have the durability that you would expect. They followed the direction and still had poor results.

Take a look at www.originalcolorchips.com/. I bought mine from there and have been over satisfied with the results. They are a little more expensive but come with everything you need, from start to finish, that you will need (besides rollers). It even includes the acid etch to FULLY clean the floor and a clear top coat that seals everything and keeps the floor shiny. I have never had any problems even with my kickstand leaving a mark!

MAKE SURE YOU... 1.Acid wash the concrete, rinse it fully and let it dry 100% 2. Coat the floor evenly with the epoxy and let if fully dry in between coats/steps and 3. Do NOT drive on it for the full 7 days... your tires really heat up when driving, if you park on it after it will pull up 4 nice spots for ya and all your hard work is lost.

I have done two other garages (one for a friend and one for another guy in the neighborhood) and they have turned out amazing as well, it is a really good product.

They do monthly color specials for $199 plus shipping so look at the site, if the monthly color isnt too bad get that one and save some cash (I got the dark gray and it looks really good)

If you would like a hand let me know!

[MetaLord 9]

I did a lot of research when I bought my kit... From what I got a lot of the success of these comes from the prep. The more you penetrate the concrete to clean it of any oils the better the epoxy will hold. That said everyone that I talked to said stay away from the rust-oleum, behr and quikrete and I would agree. Two of my neighbors went that route and regret it big time. Both are pealing (have been since a few months after) and do not really have the durability that you would expect. They followed the direction and still had poor results.

Take a look at www.originalcolorchips.com/. I bought mine from there and have been over satisfied with the results. They are a little more expensive but come with everything you need, from start to finish, that you will need (besides rollers). It even includes the acid etch to FULLY clean the floor and a clear top coat that seals everything and keeps the floor shiny. I have never had any problems even with my kickstand leaving a mark!

MAKE SURE YOU... 1.Acid wash the concrete, rinse it fully and let it dry 100% 2. Coat the floor evenly with the epoxy and let if fully dry in between coats/steps and 3. Do NOT drive on it for the full 7 days... your tires really heat up when driving, if you park on it after it will pull up 4 nice spots for ya and all your hard work is lost.

I have done two other garages (one for a friend and one for another guy in the neighborhood) and they have turned out amazing as well, it is a really good product.

They do monthly color specials for $199 plus shipping so look at the site, if the monthly color isnt too bad get that one and save some cash (I got the dark gray and it looks really good)

If you would like a hand let me know!

Did you end up using the classic package of theirs or the deluxe?

[PhL0aTeR]

I'll toss my .02 in.... when i did my garage floor in TX, i shopped around and found that POR15, which ive used their products on rust for years, had a kit. It was a bit pricier than some other options, but i did all kinds of crap in that garage and never had a chip, and was always easy to clean up.

[Ezzzzy1]

Did you end up using the classic package of theirs or the deluxe?

I used the "classic". It had more than enough for a large two car garage. It looks like the only difference is the primer coat. I didnt have it, neither did either of the other two I have done.

What's the benefit of the clear coat on a garage floor? Just look?

It looks a billion times better and as far as I am concerned it really insures that its done, right, one time.

I noticed that you said NEW garage... Is it new pour concrete? If so I think there is a time (90 days?) that you may have to wait. They say to not seal on new concrete till its cured because of the amount of gas still releasing from it.

Oh and you should really watch the weather and plan for a rain-free week. The humidity if bad can screw it up and even a little can change the set up times drastically...

[modette99]

hmmm I like these ones:
http://www.originalcolorchips.com/st...ex&cPath=36_44

[Ezzzzy1]

hmmm I like these ones:
http://www.originalcolorchips.com/st...ex&cPath=36_44

Those are way sick...! But cost like $500 shipped

[modette99]

Those are way sick...! But cost like $500 shipped

Yep and for that price not to F it up I would hire a pro...hmmm well I got drywall and insulation to finish in there...so I am a few years out...so maybe.

[Dietrich_R1]

Stay away from anything Hom-E Depot/Lowes has....

You want the 1 where they use a diamond grinder to prep the floor!!! THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT. This is what really gets the floor prepped.

Then they paint/roll on what looks like paint, thow the chips down, & then put on the sealant. Sorry I don't remember all the official names!!

[MetaLord 9]

I used the "classic". It had more than enough for a large two car garage. It looks like the only difference is the primer coat. I didnt have it, neither did either of the other two I have done.


It looks a billion times better and as far as I am concerned it really insures that its done, right, one time.

I noticed that you said NEW garage... Is it new pour concrete? If so I think there is a time (90 days?) that you may have to wait. They say to not seal on new concrete till its cured because of the amount of gas still releasing from it.

Oh and you should really watch the weather and plan for a rain-free week. The humidity if bad can screw it up and even a little can change the set up times drastically...

Gotcha. Yeah, classic is a lot cheaper so I may go that route, undecided at the moment though.

The garage is new to me. I just bought the house.

It's got something on the floor now which I can't tell what it is. It's directly under where the engines would be if you parked two cars in it. I can't tell if it's oil or if it was flooring from a long time ago. I tend to think it's just a lot of oil over the years, but it's pretty smooth so it's hard to tell. It's not anywhere else in the garage except for those two spots