Chain & Sprocket Info Help

[Vellos]

I don't know a whole lot about the chain and sprocket other than its purpose. Since mine is getting pretty bad I'm in the market for a new one, but would like to know more about my options.

What are the advantages of changing the teeth numbers?

What is a 520 chain?

What are some good brands and bad brands?

Should I just get another OEM?

Any other information about the chain/sprocket would be wonderful too. Thanks for your input.

[madvlad]

The 525 is probably the stock thickness of your OEM chain... The 520 is a lighter chain as its a bit thinner. Going down in the front will give you torque but sacrificing top end and going up in the rear as well, then going up in the front and down in the rear will give you top end but sacrifices torque. I did a 525 -1/+3 on my gixxer and it was nice.

[Vellos]

I assume a thinner chain would wear out faster. I'm guessing it's a track thing then and wouldn't benefit street riding what-so-ever.

[WolFeYeZ]

I assume a thinner chain would wear out faster. I'm guessing it's a track thing then and wouldn't benefit street riding what-so-ever.

That sounds about right from what I know. I would also probably stay away from buying the OEM stuff since its going to cost tons more (at least it did in my case).

[Sean]

What are the advantages of changing the teeth numbers?

It changes the acceleration curve. Going higher in the rear sprocket will give you more acceleration at lower RPMS, but sacrifice your top end speed. Lower teeth in the back will give you a higher top speed, but you won't have as much acceleration at lower RPMS. My 2001 R6 didn't really have good acceleration below 7k RMPs. I did -1, +2 and there was a lot more usable acceleration starting at 3k. I did lose some top speed, but I was okay with that. I had much more drive out of the corners. Note that it does throw off the speedo even more.

What is a 520 chain?

Thinner, lighter, less rotational mass. But it also does wear out faster than a 525 or 530. Not really necessary unless your racing.

What are some good brands and bad brands?

Lots of good brands. When shopping I went with a Pitbull (the company that makes the stands) package and it was affordable and solid.

Should I just get another OEM?

It wouldn't be the worst choice, but I think there are better ones available.

Any other information about the chain/sprocket would be wonderful too. Thanks for your input.

For the rear sprocket, don't get aluminum. They wear out to quick.

[madvlad]

I assume a thinner chain would wear out faster. I'm guessing it's a track thing then and wouldn't benefit street riding what-so-ever.

Most people use it cause it saves "weight" but well it all depends on chain care and how hard youre on your bike. I would stick with the 525 as your riding style is demanding. Theres the 530 applications for stuntaz ja! Lol... Vortex sprockets are good but do wear down kind of quick. I had the vortex rear and AFM or AFAM front (i think that is the brand name but feel free to correct me). The most common chain/sprocket conversion is the 520 -1/+2

[rybo]

I assume a thinner chain would wear out faster. I'm guessing it's a track thing then and wouldn't benefit street riding what-so-ever.

Yes and no

It's lighter and it's rotating mass, so losing weight there is more important than losing weight elsewhere on the bike. You might notice a difference on the street, but that difference won't equate to anything more than additional performance that you can't actually use.


My recommendation --

Stick with stock chain width (525) and steel sprockets. They last longer and work just as well for your application. As for regearing -

you can't use all the bike has for top speed anyways so adding a couple teeth in the rear will get you some additional "off the line" performance. I would suggest adding teeth at the rear over dropping teeth in the front as when you decrease the radius of the front sprocket you increase wear / friction.

Finally if you do change gearing know that your bikes speedo pickup is on the front sprocket, so your speedometer will be inaccurate. there are speedohealers and stuff to fix this if it's important to you.

s

[cptschlongenheimer]

good thread.
thx.

[Sean]

I ninja'd Rybo by a minute? This is the greatest day of my life! Dementia must be setting in for the old man?

[Vellos]

Thanks guys.

Does anyone know roughly how much top speed loss is per tooth change? Like 5%?

Didn't know sprockets came in different materials, will be sticking with steel then. I think I'll look into 525 0/+2. Do the bike manufactures make different sprocket sizes or just OEM sizes? The Kawi ones are about the same price as aftermarket kits.

[Ezzzzy1]

When it comes to chains you get what you pay for... Cheap ones stretch a lot!

[madvlad]

Thanks guys.

Does anyone know roughly how much top speed loss is per tooth change? Like 5%?

Didn't know sprockets came in different materials, will be sticking with steel then. I think I'll look into 525 0/+2. Do the bike manufactures make different sprocket sizes or just OEM sizes? The Kawi ones are about the same price as aftermarket kits.

Mine was off by about 10 mph with my gearing. It was 15 and 48 from a 16/45 stock

[brennahm]

+1 on getting a nice X/W ring chain. They last much longer.

+1 to steel sprockets...unless you're more into how your sprocket looks than how it performs.

Most OEM chains as I recall are endless...just like your stock chain. Usually kind of a pain in the ass to install...

[Sean]

My understanding is that the top speed loss is pretty minimal. going up two teeth in the back will drop your top speed from 164-155. That's just a guess. In other words, speeds you probably shouldn't need on the street.

If you are on and Kawi forums, I might check there and see if there is a good combo that most people are going with. hanging from stock to -1/+2 is a pretty drastic change. Commuting down 36 I would be running just under 1k RPM's higher, than if it was in stock configuration.

[Ezzzzy1]

Mine was off by about 10 mph with my gearing. It was 15 and 48 from a 16/45 stock

And.... If you change the gearing it will throw off the speedo and miles. You can correct it but it costs some cash. IE Speedohealer.

I went with a final drive ratio of 3.33 (15f/50r) on the R6 and like it. Kinda depends on how much highway riding you do. If its a lot I would go with a lower drive ratio because your bike will be SCREAMING even at 65-75 mph.

[madvlad]

Yea highway riding sucked lol, not gearing the R1 at all.

[Bueller]

http://www.gearingcommander.com/

[Graphite675]

Go here and pick your bike (should have most listed). Will give you a good idea of how gearing changes will effect your bike.

http://gearingcommander.com/



Edit: Dammit Bueller, you beat me to it!

.

[Bueller]

Well you took the time to explain what to do with the link

[Vellos]

That site has some useful information if you clicky on the help buttons. Thanks linkers.

[DriverDave]

I just swapped my 530 chain, -0 Front, +2 steel rear for a 520 DID gold x-ring, -0 front, aluminum +2 rear on my 550lb, 100hp VFR800. The rear is a Vortex with a special hard coating that makes it last nearly as long as steel. It's the same setup Dave (RIP) had on his VFR and he loved it and said it lasted just about as long as the 530/steel. The weight and size difference between a 530 and a 520 is surprisingly substantial. I've only taken it out for a short test run, but it definitely feels quicker.

[TransNone13]

I just want to throw some comments down too. I've owned 3 bikes, currently 2. The first was a 600RR and I went -1 front +2 rear with an aluminum sprocket and 520 chain. It's noticeable on the street and I liked it so much, I did it again on my 1000RR with the knowledge I've gained and chose the same configuration. I have driven sprockets and I've never had an issue with the Al on my 1000RR, I'm at about 6000 miles and the teeth look good. Also, don't buy a cheap chain. I spent some cash and got the premium DID X-ring chain. The lightest with enough tensile strength. Both had Healtech speedohealers, easy to install and cost around $200. They show your top speed too when you push the button . The only thing I'd consider changing is going to a Supersprox SS/Al hybrid sprocket.

Now for the other bike, the RC8 came with an Al rear and 520 setup. I would have moved to that if it didn't come with it. I mean, they wear out quicker, but what's a $70 sprocket every year if that?

[Vellos]

My same-tooth same-link (bottom of the page on the left) for OEM sprockets has 1 for the front (which apparently is not good for the chain) and 43 in the back. If I went down 1 in the front and 2 up in the back I would get a ratio of 15 and 45. But my front sprocket would suffer 250 more link contacts per mile (about 10% increase). Top end goes down by 9mph and highway RPMs (6th going 65) goes up by 680. My bike is pretty silent with stock exhaust so the sound difference isn't big, just extra engine wear is my concern.

As I am no expert, does anyone have an opinion on this configuration?

[TransNone13]

Just checked in above, I really like -1/+2. My top speed dropped to around 170 with the kit. I never went faster than that with the OE setup.