I'm not a bike guy, so if anyone has any links to some websites about what all the parts are and how they work. I'd appreciate it.
Also, if anyone has a link or some info about my current bike, I'd like that too. 98 F3.
I'm not a bike guy, so if anyone has any links to some websites about what all the parts are and how they work. I'd appreciate it.
Also, if anyone has a link or some info about my current bike, I'd like that too. 98 F3.
You're on it. Ask away...
There are full shop manuals for most of the bike contained on the site. Or, if you want one to look at, a factory shop manual on your bike should have detailed pictures on how it all comes apart. And if you want to know how or why things work, just show up to a meeting and start pointing and asking....with some of thise crowd you will probably get differing descriptions, but the end result will still be more info for you!
Though I am just a girl, I know nothing about bikes
Asshole Nazi devil moderator out to get each and every one of you
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Love Always Gene
I have a shop manual on F3s I'll sell you. Otherwise, ask your questions here and Ralph will be more than happy to answer them.
Not a shred of evidence exists in favor of the idea that life is serious.
We will all be willing to answer questions....just don't ask about using race gas!
Asshole Nazi devil moderator out to get each and every one of you
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Love Always Gene
I'd like to know these things: weight, HP, torque, final drive ratio, chain part #, how big of a rear tire I can fit on, what my compression ratio is, what my pistons look like, is it DOHC or SOHC, what size brake rotors I have, what my ET QM would be, plug part #, how the hell I check/ change my oil... I'll think or more later.
I thought of more.
-Why would I need frame sliders?
-I had Cynister order me a new chain and sprockets. I went with +2,-1. What do you think this will do for highway driving/ daily driving?
-Is jetting the bike going to do much for performace?
-Is the clutch a multi-puck design? I thought I heard that they have like 6 plates normally, or something.
-What is the gearing going to do to my spedo?
-At 12,7xx miles, what do I need to be looking at for replacement or fixing?
-Is a CBR a trackable bike?
-What kind of oil do you all recommend I use? I bought some Mobile1 15k synthetic.
-What kind of plugs do you recommend?
-How often should I change my oil/filter/airfilter. Is it similar to a car?
-What bikes can I hang with with, with my mods? (*see above for gearing, full yosh system, K&N)?
-What kinds of quality parts do you recommend I buy? IE: Jackets, gloves, lids, boots, suits.
Forgive my ignorance. I hate being the newb on forums and having to ask so many starter questions. Once I get them ironed out then I think I'll be good to go for a while. :P
Ok, seriously, have you ridden a motorcycle before?
Before somebody answers your questions...
...I'm gonna be the asshole who tells you to buy a good helmet, jacket, gloves and boots, take the MSF class and get licensed. If you've already done that, then you need to go to an MRA raceday. Doing those things will answer half your questions.
A sportbike is not a car. You cannot sit on it and go fast without serious risk. Your quarter-mile is going to be SECONDS slower than an experienced rider on the same bike. The gearing you've chosen may actually be too torquey for your skill level. In another post you said that this was set up as a race bike- of course you can take it on the track. How fast is it on a track? Faster than you.
The rest of these questions may be answered by people here but they could also be answered by using the search feature on this site or on google.
A service manual will answer most of that. If you want to actually see engine internals for yourself, get to know the people at TK and hang around the shop, there are usually several engines in various states of (dis)assembly on the bench.Originally Posted by JMoney";p="209455
...they always do.I thought of more.
Answered in order: (Hey, they told you I was going to...)-Why would I need frame sliders?
-I had Cynister order me a new chain and sprockets. I went with +2,-1. What do you think this will do for highway driving/ daily driving?
-Is jetting the bike going to do much for performace?
-Is the clutch a multi-puck design? I thought I heard that they have like 6 plates normally, or something.
-What is the gearing going to do to my spedo?
-At 12,7xx miles, what do I need to be looking at for replacement or fixing?
-Is a CBR a trackable bike?
-What kind of oil do you all recommend I use? I bought some Mobile1 15k synthetic.
-What kind of plugs do you recommend?
-How often should I change my oil/filter/airfilter. Is it similar to a car?
-What bikes can I hang with with, with my mods? (*see above for gearing, full yosh system, K&N)?
-What kinds of quality parts do you recommend I buy? IE: Jackets, gloves, lids, boots, suits.
- Frame sliders protect the more vital parts of your bike in some wrecks. Definitely recommended, especially if you track-bike the thing. May protect most of your plastics too. Get the direct bolt-on type even if it means cutting your plastics. The ones on the arm that hang way out will bend or break in a crash.
- +2/-1 will make it more "torquey", as Dysco eluded to. You may not like that for city driving, but you will have to try and see.
- Jetting the bike will do goos things for performance. Don't worry about this right now, just get used to riding it. Trust me, the bike is capable of a lot more speed than you are as-is.
- Never heard of pucks in a clutch.
- Gearing going to your speedo? what? It's either direct-drive off the final drive gear of the tranny, or electronically signalled from the same place. If electronic, I am about to do a group buy on Speedo Healers which will correct it for your chain gearing change, stay tuned!
- At 12,7xx miles you should do a tune up. If you don't have a history on the bike, I'd take it somewhere like Cynister or TK to have them do a once-over and a tune up. Beyond that, CBR's are some of the most reliable and solid sportbikes ever built, so I wouldn't worry too much unless the previous owner beat the shit out of it.
- Yes. Ask Hoopty, he kicked a lot of ass on a CBR F3 last year against guys on much newer, more powerful bikes.
- You don't want to start the oil thread up. Besides, there are several. My *personal* opinion is to use oil designed for bikes, and I like Synthetic -- especially in a track/race bike. Silkolene, Motul, and Mobil1 are all good brands. Won't get into the rest of the oil discussion here, but the 15k is new stuff and I don't think anyone has tried it in a bike yet, so you may want to reconsider it since that is car oil (may have friction modifiers which can do bad things to your clutch).
- OEM replacement plugs (probably NGK). Not terribly expensive.
- Change oil every 3-5k miles if street riding and behaving. More often if track riding/racing or being a hooligan, or burning up your clutch. I change my filter with every oil change, again depends on your use. Air filter - when it gets dirty. Get a K&N, you just have to clean it.
- "Hang with"? Your bike doesn't define how fast you go, the rider does. I strongly recommend you try a track day to get a true appreciation for this.
- BUY GEAR BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING TO YOUR BIKE!!!!!!! Especially if you want to go on the track, because you will crash at some point. Used 1pc leather suits can be had cheap. Do NOT skimp on gear, unless you feel your skull and body isn't worth hanging on to for a while.
We'd rather you ask and go forth with a clue, than be a poseur squid like so many before you.Forgive my ignorance. I hate being the newb on forums and having to ask so many starter questions. Once I get them ironed out then I think I'll be good to go for a while. :P
Actually, you'd be an asshole if you didn't recommend these things. IMO those are the first steps ANY rider should do before EVER getting on a bike (and I do speak from a harshly-learned experience).
Gear will save your life.
MSF training will save your life.
IMO that is the best insurance you can buy!
When I bought my first bike, I was in the same boat. I did have some experience on Dirt before, and I still took the class. Got me use to the street, and also got my licence that way.
First I bought the bike, second was a helmet and jacket. Then came some better gloves, and I use my work, Steel toed boots.
My bike was set up for racing, so I am 14/43 sprockets... Lot more torque, and 0-60 times. going up/down will give u more top end. Mine tops out at about 139... don't have a speedo healer for "true" speed.
I changed my oil, filter, air filter, and plugs after I bought it, just so I could have my own records. supposubly it was jetted, but I want to hit the dyno to verify that
base HP for my F2 was 100hp. who know with this altitude, and what has "been done" to it.
other tips:
New can(Exhaust)
Sliders if ur worried about lowside/dropping it. (mine sunk in asphault, and I wished I had them)
and maybe tail eliminator kit.
Simple things to make a stock bike look a little prettier
You'll need some of the info contained in your bikes manual, but: http://www.cosportbikeclub.org/misc/SpeedCalc.html
This would be my second bike. I started on a 93 Katana and now have the CBR. Total months I've been "riding" is about 10. I realize that I don't have any track time or as much experience as most of you, but I feel pretty comfortable tooling around to work on it.Dysco
Ok, seriously, have you ridden a motorcycle before?
The gearing you've chosen may actually be too torquey for your skill level.
I am very aware that this bike will kill me if I am not safe. Everyday I ride, I ride with my jacket, helmet, and gloves. The helmet is a KBC. Not the best, but all I could afford at the time. I'm insured, have the correct plates on there, and have my license. Also, no I am not one of those cocksuckers who decideds to get on one wheel and pass someone in a turn lane. I'm actually taking a real course for my safety this summer.
I really appreciate all of your responses.
Speaking from personal experience, in colder weather or longer rides you want to ditch those steel toes and find something that doesn't have metal on it. The metal holds the cold really well and will refrigerate your feet more than a non-steel toe. A basic leather/plastic toe will not do this. If you plan on riding in cold weather and in the rain, always remember to seat the stitching on the toes of your boot so air can't get in.
Good to hear this isn't your first bike. I taught a rider on an F3 and it was a scary experience- for both of us.
I still want to encourage you to come to an MRA race and learn the difference between bike fast and rider fast- it's a ton of education and a whole lot of fun. Better than watching is cornerworking- you make money, get the best seats and score free lunch!
How and when are these events? I'm always up for free food.
MRA Races this weekend!
Go here for more info:
http://forums.mra-racing.org/viewtopic.php?t=361
Humm. I've got a Subaru meet in Denver on Saturday. I might just make it a weekend trip and come watch the action Sunday. I didn't see a price for spectators though.
Edit - I also looked around the site and didn't find much on what I need to do to get started in the MRA.
$10 for spectators.
Or show up by 7am wearing light colored clothing (NO red or yellow), bring gloves and a whistle along with plenty of water, and come cornerwork! You'll get $50 and lunch, just to stand right next to the action and watch!
Don't you love reeling the n00Bs into cornerworking?
I think theHey Jmoney, I can also get you that F3 manual while you are up here. I will have it at the races too, if you decide to show up.meant you owe Hoopty some beers for it.
Not a bad trade IMO
Bulldog's Motto: F*ck around and I'm going to bite you!!!
I was at Red Rocks yesterday and it was crappy ass weather. We decided to go back down.Hey Jmoney, I can also get you that F3 manual while you are up here. I will have it at the races too, if you decide to show up.
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