Ninja 250 tips for Chicane trackday

[GuitarX]

Hey guys,

I know there are some people on this forum who run and race Ninja 250s so I'd like to ask for your expertise.

To get a bone-stock Ninjette ready for the 9/5 Chicane trackday, what is the bare minimum you would do? I'm guessing Water Wetter, sticky tires (which are deemed the best for this bike?), maybe some sort of frame/engine protection, etc? 9/5 is coming up quickly so I just want to make sure it's ready to rock and not worry about trying to make it look like a professional racebike.

Thanks in advance for any help!
Gary

[Bueller]

If it is lowered bring it back to stock height, remove kickstand or @ minimum unbolt the safety switch and tie wrap it up inside the body work (make sure it is in the correct position ). If it has the Dunlop 501's in descent shape I probably wouldn't worry about tires just run about 28psi cold IIRC. If you run race tires I would suggest the set that Peanut has advertised for sale or I have a set of Bridgetsones 003 RS rear and 016 front you can have if you pick 'em up in Aurora. If money is no object get the Michelins that Vanmar is selling.
The frame sliders for the Ninjettes suck don't waste your $ and if you still want them I don't know who would be best sorry.

There is a relatively easy carb tuning trick that will make it run better on the bottom end, and while carb removal is not required you do need to pop the tops open and access the needles.

[rforsythe]

There is a relatively easy carb tuning trick that will make it run better on the bottom end, and while carb removal is not required you do need to pop the tops open and access the needles.

Oh?

[Bueller]

Is your's a pre-gen or new-gen (08+)?

I have not looked into the shim mod on pre-gens, but if you pull the needles out and shim them up with (2) 3mm washers ea. it will take care of a lot of the bottom end hesitation and it helps considerably with the cold blooded nature of the 250. The washers can be obtained @ Radio Shack in the DIY component section for <$2.
The next step would be to pop the tamper plugs from the fuel screws and adjust them to best possible performance, the most important thing would be to swap main jets but that is also the most difficult and usually requires removing carbs for the first time, subsequent jet changes can be performed with carbs installed.

[Mother Goose]

Oh?

http://youtu.be/pgfDL-Q20P4

[rforsythe]

Is your's a pre-gen or new-gen (08+)?

I have not looked into the shim mod on pre-gens, but if you pull the needles out and shim them up with (2) 3mm washers ea. it will take care of a lot of the bottom end hesitation and it helps considerably with the cold blooded nature of the 250. The washers can be obtained @ Radio Shack in the DIY component section for <$2.
The next step would be to pop the tamper plugs from the fuel screws and adjust them to best possible performance, the most important thing would be to swap main jets but that is also the most difficult and usually requires removing carbs for the first time, subsequent jet changes can be performed with carbs installed.

Pre. I'll check into it, it acts lean at low RPM so raising the needle would probably help.

[GuitarX]

If it is lowered bring it back to stock height, remove kickstand or @ minimum unbolt the safety switch and tie wrap it up inside the body work (make sure it is in the correct position ). If it has the Dunlop 501's in descent shape I probably wouldn't worry about tires just run about 28psi cold IIRC. If you run race tires I would suggest the set that Peanut has advertised for sale or I have a set of Bridgetsones 003 RS rear and 016 front you can have if you pick 'em up in Aurora. If money is no object get the Michelins that Vanmar is selling.
The frame sliders for the Ninjettes suck don't waste your $ and if you still want them I don't know who would be best sorry.

There is a relatively easy carb tuning trick that will make it run better on the bottom end, and while carb removal is not required you do need to pop the tops open and access the needles.

Thanks Bueller! I had to make some quick decisions yesterday and went with a new set of Bridgestone BT003RS. I'm a bigger fan of Michelins so I'll see if I can change my order or just go with those next time. I went to Vanmar's website but didn't see any info. Are you talking about the Power 1?

Thank you for the other tips as well...

Is your's a pre-gen or new-gen (08+)?

I have not looked into the shim mod on pre-gens, but if you pull the needles out and shim them up with (2) 3mm washers ea. it will take care of a lot of the bottom end hesitation and it helps considerably with the cold blooded nature of the 250. The washers can be obtained @ Radio Shack in the DIY component section for <$2.
The next step would be to pop the tamper plugs from the fuel screws and adjust them to best possible performance, the most important thing would be to swap main jets but that is also the most difficult and usually requires removing carbs for the first time, subsequent jet changes can be performed with carbs installed.

The bike is a 2011.

[OUTLAWD]

weren't people also putting some PVC spacers in the forks to increase the preload a bit? no offense Gary, but you ain't the smallest guy

[Sean]

Tips? Brake as late as possible and open the throttle as soon as possible.

[GuitarX]

weren't people also putting some PVC spacers in the forks to increase the preload a bit? no offense Gary, but you ain't the smallest guy

Yep, it's getting stiffer fork springs and cartridge emulators so I should be okay on the front end. I'm more concerned about the stock rear shock handling my weight. We'll see how it does all cranked out. I'd rather not buy a new shock ($$$).

The only experience I've had with a 250 was an Aprilia RS250 that I could kick my own ass for selling. But that was a different world (power, suspension, etc.). This little Ninja should be a blast, but will be a learning experience for sure. I guess I'll actually have to learn to take a corner correctly now instead of relying on a big motor to cover my crap form.

[GuitarX]

Tips? Brake as late as possible and open the throttle as soon as possible.

Thank you Sean, I didn't realize how simple this will be.

So you're saying I just need some balls fertilizer so I can grow a pair before the 5th?

[OUTLAWD]

all the racers are running factory shocks (as per class rules) and I think bueller doesn't even have the preload cranked all the way in... but people are running aftermarket dog bones to raise the rear IIRC

maybe post on the MRA board too...or better yet, come out to the track and talk to some of the 250 racers this weekend

[Bueller]

Tips? Brake as late as possible and open the throttle as soon as possible.

Actually don't brake it just slows you down and when you close the throttle that means your session is done

The RS's are great tires stay with those. Don't worry about the shock I am 215# and no problem, I am on the second from the lightest ramp on the preload.

[Bueller]

So you're saying I just need some balls fertilizer so I can grow a pair before the 5th?

What group are you signed up with, Beg. or Intermediate?

The bike is very capable it is just a matter of getting your shifts around the track, once you get that figured out they fly around pretty smooth with stock gearing (that's what I race HPR with).

Here is my onboard from last chicane.
Click

Bonus tip! Stay in the higher gear entering the corkscrew, don't downshift, otherwise you will need to shift in the chicane. and the engine spinning slower lessons the gyroscopic effect making the bike easier to throw back and forth.

[GuitarX]

Actually don't brake it just slows you down and when you close the throttle that means your session is done

The RS's are great tires stay with those. Don't worry about the shock I am 215# and no problem, I am on the second from the lightest ramp on the preload.

LOL, should I just remove the damn brakes? It's just extra weight for god's sake. Thanks for letting me know those tires are good for the track. Spooph was real helpful and recommended them to me. You and I are about the same weight so that makes me feel more confident about the rear shock.

What group are you signed up with, Beg. or Intermediate?

The bike is very capable it is just a matter of getting your shifts around the track, once you get that figured out they fly around pretty smooth with stock gearing (that's what I race HPR with).

Here is my onboard from last chicane.
Click

Bonus tip! Stay in the higher gear entering the corkscrew, don't downshift, otherwise you will need to shift in the chicane. and the engine spinning slower lessons the gyroscopic effect making the bike easier to throw back and forth.

I'll probably just run around in the beginner group. Not only have I never ridden this bike before (the track day will probably be my first ride), but the bike has no miles on it so it will be broken in on the track (like a proper track ho). No sense in trying to pretend I belong in a faster group. :-)

Thanks for the bonus tip!

[Bueller]

Well if you get comfy on it and want to run in intermediate I'll run some laps with you.

[Sean]

Don't want to throw out too basic of requirements, but it wasn't stated earlier and I don't know if you've done a trackday before? Still, don't forget to remove the mirrors and tape up all of the lights/turn signals. I pull the fuses, but putting a layer or two of painters tape will work also. Personally, I also put painters tape over the speedo (I enjoy seeing how slow I go) but there is no need if you don't want to

If you haven't seen it before, here is Chicane's requirements. link

Have fun, I'm super jealous!

[Spooph]

I'll probably just run around in the beginner group. Not only have I never ridden this bike before (the track day will probably be my first ride), but the bike has no miles on it so it will be broken in on the track (like a proper track ho). No sense in trying to pretend I belong in a faster group. :-)

Thanks for the bonus tip!

Gary, your a much better rider than I, and have a much broader frame of reference of bikes and will adapt to the 250 very quickly. Due to the nature of the 250 (corner speed), I found it frustrating more often than not being in the beginner group.... The big bikes would pass me on the straights and park it in the corners, frustrating me time and time again.... I also didn't feel that comfortable passing a lot of the beginner riders (although being a beginner myself) in the corner for fear of causing a crash - that's just bad karma.... So see how it goes, but I'm willing to be by the end of the day you'll be in the intermediate group, to play with the people who go a bit faster through the corners.... At the end of the day I felt as though I would have had more fun in the intermediate group because I was closer to their corner speeds, and would've felt much more comfortable being passed by slightly more experienced folk... So, just keep this in mind. Not trying to talk down on anybody, I mean, I'm still very green when it comes to the track, just thought I'd throw it out there...

[GuitarX]

Well if you get comfy on it and want to run in intermediate I'll run some laps with you.

Thanks so much for that offer. We'll know how comfy I get after the first session! :-)

Don't want to throw out too basic of requirements, but it wasn't stated earlier and I don't know if you've done a trackday before? Still, don't forget to remove the mirrors and tape up all of the lights/turn signals. I pull the fuses, but putting a layer or two of painters tape will work also. Personally, I also put painters tape over the speedo (I enjoy seeing how slow I go) but there is no need if you don't want to

If you haven't seen it before, here is Chicane's requirements. link

Have fun, I'm super jealous!

Hey Sean, I've done LOTS of track days before but I'm only saying it because it's a fact, not because I think I'm fast if you get my meaning. I will definitely tape everything up. Thanks for the link.

Gary, your a much better rider than I, and have a much broader frame of reference of bikes and will adapt to the 250 very quickly. Due to the nature of the 250 (corner speed), I found it frustrating more often than not being in the beginner group.... The big bikes would pass me on the straights and park it in the corners, frustrating me time and time again.... I also didn't feel that comfortable passing a lot of the beginner riders (although being a beginner myself) in the corner for fear of causing a crash - that's just bad karma.... So see how it goes, but I'm willing to be by the end of the day you'll be in the intermediate group, to play with the people who go a bit faster through the corners.... At the end of the day I felt as though I would have had more fun in the intermediate group because I was closer to their corner speeds, and would've felt much more comfortable being passed by slightly more experienced folk... So, just keep this in mind. Not trying to talk down on anybody, I mean, I'm still very green when it comes to the track, just thought I'd throw it out there...

Thanks Matt, I doubt I'm a better rider than you but I appreciate the kind words. The first session will be a revelation for me (first time back on the track in a decade, first time on HPR, first time on the Ninjette, etc. etc.). I'll play it safe and start slow and see how it goes. I'd rather be slowed down by others than be the one slowing up the faster guys. Hopefully there will be plenty more track days in my future so I'll learn the track and bike (and my capabilities) as I go along. I just want to have fun, I'm not expecting any lap records to start falling lol!

[Sean]

Hey Sean, I've done LOTS of track days before but I'm only saying it because it's a fact, not because I think I'm fast if you get my meaning. I will definitely tape everything up. Thanks for the link.

Like I said, I wasn't sure. Have a great time on the new ride.

[Bueller]

Thanks so much for that offer. We'll know how comfy I get after the first session! :-)

NP if you want to move up I will be easy to find, white & black bike #999, probably louder than an open piped Harley. We should be in a carport.

Like Spooph said, the little bikes are all corner speed and I run into quite a bit of traffic through the corners, with the intermediates I really don't worry about passing most of them, some are too sketch to try so I just slow down and they can haul ass in the straights and it takes me a couple more corners to re catch them and pass when I am comfortable. I imagine the beginner group would be more so.

Definitely get your feet wet in beg. but don't resign yourself to staying there because of the size of the bike.

[Bueller]

I run OEM brake pads as they are cheap and work great and some of the aftermarkets destroy the rotors faster.


Here is the backing of front pads I installed before the 4 hour endurance. I rode a little more than 3 hours and it appears that was a little hard on the pads. but even this weekend with these worn past what I was comfortable with they worked great with no fade or other problems.
I am going through pads pretty quick so keep an eye on those if you track the bike. Conveniently though, the front and back are identical if you get into a situation you can swap front for back. And a braided front line is very helpful.

[Spooph]

Bueller, which braided lines do you use? I can't get mine bled properly, and when they're fairly firm, they don't hold it for very long...

[Bueller]

I found a guy in cananada that has them on eBay. I will have to find him but they custom build them for real cheap.

Take the master off the bars and hang it straight up. Use an elastic cord or something to tie the lever in to activate the brake. Allow the air to rise to the MC, you can hasten the processes by lightly tapping ln the caliper and the line working the bubbles up. Leave it for an hour or so to let all the air to rise. With MC in a position to let air bubbles to pass through the banjo, release the lever and then pump it several times and hold closed for several seconds. This will allow air to pass back into the reservoir.