No Start

[Vellos]

So I did work on my bike over winter break and it started up great, but then it went immediately back to storage. Now that I am trying to get it riding ready the fuel pump isn't priming and nothing happens when I hit the start button. Electrics start up, but not a peep of sound coming from the pump or starter. I did all the idiot-checks and everything is good to go (switch is turned to run, etc). Fuses are fine too. The only thing I found odd was the coolant overflow reserve went down halfway over the less than two months of non-running time from when I filled it.

Ideas?

[FZ1Guy]

It the bike in neutral... and is the kickstand up?

[sloridr]

Buy a new battery. One of those really really expensive ones.

[Wrider]

Double-check your kill switch with a continuity tester...

[spdu4ia]

Was it on a battery tender?

[madvlad]

Kickstand sensor?

[spdu4ia]

Kickstand sensor?

this is what mine was, had the same symptoms.

[CYCLE_MONKEY]

Is it a Kawasaki?

Try starting it with jumper cables attached to a known good car battery.

did you check fuses?

[Achupernt]

Ignition switch. That was my problem which Rocky Mountain Plaza took 2 months to figure it out because they were "stumped".

[mdub]

Is it a Kawasaki?

hardy har har


all the suggestions are a good start...

[sloridr]

Smoke some crack???..........

[Vellos]

Figured out how to check the error code and it came back as ECU communication failure. Been starting to work the plastics off, but not sure how to approach the problem best once I've accessed it. Really hoping it doesn't need to be replaced.

[Wrider]

Try unplugging it for a minute or two first. Could be as simple as it needing a reset.

[Vellos]

I'll give that a shot. RMK was confused that it could go bad while just sitting there. They said a mouse might have made a meal out of one of my wires. Does anyone know if putting in a good ECU (and the bike is happy/runs) means that the only thing I can to do is replace the bad ECU?

[Clovis]

So you put another ECU on the bike and it runs fine but doesn't with yours?

Sounds like you need a new ECU? Do you see any damage to your current one? Knaw marks, missing wires, ect? If it's a matter of missing wires you could re-do the connections.

Edit, I found a ECU on eBay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2007-2008-KA...426661&vxp=mtr

$71

[#1Townie]

yeah if the new ecu makes the bike run then either the old one wasnt plugged in or is bad. not sure how it would go bad just sitting there. i would have checked fuses first then moved on to the kickstand wires and tip over sensor.

[Ezzzzy1]

Try unplugging it for a minute or two first. Could be as simple as it needing a reset.

This is so far the best advice. Most ECUs if left unplugged for 5 minutes will re-set.

I would just disconnect it over night and see what happens when you plug it in the next day. If you have access to another ECU try that one while you are at it.

Was your bike on a tender or was it plugged in or disconnected?

[brennahm]

"Coolant overflow reserve"? See: military intelligence. It's an overflow. Cold, it should be empty.

Try a good known elec source and get back.

[Bashed]

All this ecu talk is well and fine, but it really sounds like your battery.
Did you make sure it has a full charge?
From sitting for any period of time they will discharge.
It might have enough to turn on the dash an dlights, but not enough to run the pump and or starter. A low battery will give all kinds of weird indicators.
First things first, or you are just chasing your tail.

[Vellos]

My battery has been on the tender during initial winter storage, but off post-repair so it only went without for about one month. Currently it has been back on tender, but the battery is disconnected from the bike as I'm poking it apart. Any idea how long it should be left on the tender until I can try starting the bike to confirm/deny the battery as the problem.

I do need to do a couple more things aside from my no-start issue before it'll be ride ready so I haven't been needlessly pulling it apart.

[longrider]

Assuming you have an actual Battery Tender when the light is solid green the battery is fully charged. I think most of the other brands of tender work the same

[CYCLE_MONKEY]

Note on the Battery Tender:

I've had instances where about half the water evaporated out of the battery when left on continuously for a long time. I do maybe a few days on, a few off.

[Vellos]

Tried with a charged battery, made no difference. Took the ECU out and everything looks clean so far, about to plug it in and see if it resets...

[Vellos]

Nothing. Going to check for a connection that may have come loose below the airbox, where I was messing with it last.