Water Wetter runs the coldest right?

[oh10raven]

Running water wetter now, but I didn't notice any cooler engine temps vs running regular coolant. I now have my fan kick on at 205 and that seems to keep the engine temps down more.

[tecknojoe]

Yea I wasn't questioning if it's ok to run on the street, I know that's fine as well as regular coolant. Just wanted to know what the coldest substance is. Seems like it won't get much colder than wetter. I've run wetter in my R6 for the past few years, I'll put some in the duke too to keep it cool on traffic/hot days.

I ordered the lower temp fan switch for the ktm to kick the fan on earlier which will help.

of course drain it in the winter so there's no freezing just in case we get one of those real cold -20* days.

thanks all (Rybo)

[Fumet5uNo]

R1's generally run hot, so I've read. 215-220 idling in hot day traffic, ugh. It sucks, but I'm gonna try some Purple Ice and play with water/coolant mix percent to get the coolest setup.

Is that how much RP you're suppose to use? I thought with Redline WW you only put in a couple capfuls or something? It's been awhile...

1 oz to 1 qt I think

[Ghost]

Semi-related, has anyone ever seen 1.3bar radiator caps for bikes?

[madvlad]

Kind of a loaded question, since it varies between engines. For instance my Supra (2JZ) "likes" to run a little hotter than most motors, without harm. But I don't have my legs strapped around that thing in traffic, lol.

I've always learned that higher motor temps = higher combustion/ignition temps = less power and more wear & tear, especially with our high-winding high-compression rocket motors putting out 150+hp from just one liter. Higher temps also mean you've moved closer to the danger-zone for detonation/knock, and very close to the "overheating" zone, I'd rather have a buffer. A concern with our cycles which are practically mild race motors, even stock outta the box.

Or maybe it's all bullshit and I have no idea what I'm talking about, a distinct possibility since I'm more experienced as a "car guy".


Lemme know when/how you do this. I haven't searched on R1-Forums yet, for any writeups. But I want to wire a manual-switch on mine too, they definitely don't come on soon enough.

I know you can do a flashed ECM and set your own temp as to when the fans kick on. My old ECM before the recall had the bike running much cooler with the fan on at 220 instead of 226 now and it even reaches 231 sometimes and I'm like WTF! Lol it never ran that hot before even at the parade earlier this year... I gotta pull the schematics and do some reading and planning. Haven't searched on the R1 forums either about it but I'm sure someone has a DIY on it.

[Wrider]

I know you can do a flashed ECM and set your own temp as to when the fans kick on. My old ECM before the recall had the bike running much cooler with the fan on at 220 instead of 226 now and it even reaches 231 sometimes and I'm like WTF! Lol it never ran that hot before even at the parade earlier this year... I gotta pull the schematics and do some reading and planning. Haven't searched on the R1 forums either about it but I'm sure someone has a DIY on it.

It's pretty easy. There's a temp sensor plugged into your radiator. Splice in a wire to each one, run those to a switch you mount where-ever you want, and presto!

[tecknojoe]

It's pretty easy. There's a temp sensor plugged into your radiator. Splice in a wire to each one, run those to a switch you mount where-ever you want, and presto!

I have this on my superduke now while I wait for a new temp switch

[madvlad]

It's pretty easy. There's a temp sensor plugged into your radiator. Splice in a wire to each one, run those to a switch you mount where-ever you want, and presto!

I work on cars and well electrical is not my forte lol... but simple enough from what you said.

[tecknojoe]

I work on cars and well electrical is not my forte lol... but simple enough from what you said.

If you actually want to do it you can have my switch becuase I should be getting my fan temp sensor today. Can show you how I plugged it in and ish

It's just 2 wires that run down to the fan switch area, and the wires run all the way up to a switch right on the handlebar

[madvlad]

If you actually want to do it you can have my switch becuase I should be getting my fan temp sensor today. Can show you how I plugged it in and ish

It's just 2 wires that run down to the fan switch area, and the wires run all the way up to a switch right on the handlebar

Thanks man, appreciate that. How did the hitch deal come out after all?

[tecknojoe]

Thanks man, appreciate that. How did the hitch deal come out after all?

Should be good. Need to hoist into place and drill one hole on each side to finish mounting. Now that I know how to drill it should be simple. Hopefully I'll get some garage time on monday

[rybo]

Sorry about the jack there Joe, just curious since the engine ice site said it was track safe

There are some organizations that allow engine ice, but the MRA and HPR are not on the list. Engine ice is glycol based and a real pain to clean up if it gets spilled on asphalt.

[Ghosty]

<sorry, temp. semi-related thread-jack>

Hey MadVlad, what year is yours? This says '07-'12 but might be the same for all:

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showt...+sensor+switch

For '04-'06, if any different?: http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showt...ght=fan+switch

Thx TecknoJoe, good info to have. Might try to tackle that this weekend:

I found a way on 07-08 R1's to wire the coolingfans on a switch so you can turn them on when you want and they will still turn on and off like on thier own like stock.

All you need is:
1. a couple feet of wire
2. a switch
3. a eyelet
4. 2 female spade connectors
5. a wire tap

First you need to remove your left side mid fairing to gain access to the fan relay. The relay is the black box, that is to the right and just below the fuse box with a 4 wire plug going into the bottom of it and thats all.

Next, out of the 4 wires leading into it, one will be green and yellow. This is the wire that trips the relay and turns the fans on. Take a piece of wire long enough to run from the green and yellow wire to where ever you want to mount your switch and use the wire clamp to clamp the wire for your switch to the green and yellow wire.

Now find a good ground. You can use any ground. I used the ground behind the windscreen that is for the instrument cluster. Run a piece of wire from the ground you chose to the location of the switch. Connect the wires to the switch with the 2 female spade connectors and your done.

Turn the key on and flip your switch on. The fans should come on.

Sorry for no pics. I did this today out of boredem. It turned out well though, so I decided to make a write up about it. Should be simple enough without pics though.

[tecknojoe]

Hey MadVlad, what year is yours?:

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showt...+sensor+switch

Thx TecknoJoe, good info to have. Might try to tackle that this weekend:

Oh if you're going to do the switch as well, I'll post up a pic of how I put mine together when I get home from work today

[tecknojoe]

Hers's some pics. I actually put the switch on the wires FIRST, then measured the amount of wire needed and cut it, then pluged into the radiator to test to make sure it works. Then I fished the wires through the bike.

Damir you're welcome to my little wire harness thing when I take it off today. You can buy a different switch at radio shack for like 3 bucks if you'd like. The one I got looked like it came off a rocket ship and I thought it was funny

1) I got two litte double prong pieces at radio shack. Broke off one side. The single prong will fit perfectly in my fan switch hole, and never moves. Expose some wire, wrap around the little metal prong well, then heat shrink them together. solder if you really want to.



2) Cut enough wiring to go from your handlebar to your fan. Tie it up tight on the bike



3) Slide some shrink wrap around the wires. Wrap the two wire ends around the switch then screw into place. Heat the heat shrink after wires are secure. Velcro + zip tie the switch to the bar, and tuck wires away cleanly if possible.