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Thread: cam cover bolt stripped

  1. #1
    Member 675Rider's Avatar
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    cam cover bolt stripped

    So I adjusted my valves, then I started putting my cam cover back on and one of the bolt receivers, whatever it is called that the bolt screws into, is stripped. Im guessing I may be fucked, but Im gonna take it to the shop. Hopefully they can fix it without graping me in the mouth too much. I don't think it could be tapped to use a larger size bolt.

    Thoughts?
    2006 Triumph Daytona 675-Track Only For Me!

  2. #2
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    Re: cam cover bolt stripped

    are all of the other ones solid?

    If so you might be able to use a helicoil

  3. #3
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    Re: cam cover bolt stripped

    They are good. Just that one. I was looking at the helical but I have never used one. Do you have to drill and tap then put the helicoil in? I would have to take the engine out probably to do that.
    2006 Triumph Daytona 675-Track Only For Me!

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    Re: cam cover bolt stripped

    yeah, that's the typical routine. A good shop may have some tools that fit into small places better, but this will likely be your least expensive route.

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    Re: cam cover bolt stripped

    Did it strip or cross thread? How I read it is it pulled all the threads out of the bolt hole? Just trying to clairify cross thread is usually what happens.

  6. #6
    Senior Member FZRguy's Avatar
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    Re: cam cover bolt stripped

    Helicoil that bitch...it's easy.
    John
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  7. #7
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    Re: cam cover bolt stripped

    Yup, pulled the threads out of the bolt hole. I am guessing whoever put it in last must have torqued it down too much. Unless vibration could do that.

    Im going to het what I ned to helicoil it today.
    2006 Triumph Daytona 675-Track Only For Me!

  8. #8
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    Re: cam cover bolt stripped

    Why the hell would you design something like this?????? Steel bolt in aluminum? WTF! Why not put a steel jacket in there???? Dumb ass bastards!
    2006 Triumph Daytona 675-Track Only For Me!

  9. #9
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    Re: cam cover bolt stripped

    I have used helicoil on my cars and they work great.


    2008 GSX650F
    2012 Azera, 2009 Santa Fe, 2002 300M,
    2001 Aurora Sold, 1966 Coronet 500 Sold, 1992 3000GT VR4 Sold, and many others sold

  10. #10
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    Re: cam cover bolt stripped

    Time-Sert... It is a steel jacket.

  11. #11
    Senior Member TinkerinWstuff's Avatar
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    Re: cam cover bolt stripped

    Have been forced to helicoil cam caps with great success before. Standard procedure and steel bolts in aluminum works just fine. Trying to add some sort of insert in every threaded hole from the factory - just in case some end user screws it up - would add rediculous cost to the product.
    Last edited by TinkerinWstuff; Sat Mar 30th, 2013 at 06:05 PM.
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  12. #12
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    Re: cam cover bolt stripped

    Clean treads and a torque wrench, most small bolts on the head are less than 100 inch lbs. torque if you use a 1/4 ratchet and tighend good'n'tight will be way over spec, just a thought for all and when going back together

  13. #13
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    Re: cam cover bolt stripped

    I do not think adding steel jackets to every bolt hole is necessary, but to bolt holes that are used repeatedly for maintenance makes sense. I always use a torque wrench when aluminum is involved. Somehow they got stripped or were damaged before I worked on them.

    I ended up using a helicoil kit on the two center bolts. It looks as if someone used one on another hole as well.
    2006 Triumph Daytona 675-Track Only For Me!

  14. #14
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    Re: cam cover bolt stripped

    I use to work for a company that made Military Flight hardware and we installed helicoils in 90 percent of the aluminum parts that we made.

    When one of the valve cover screws on the Beemer stripped; I went through and put helicoils in all the rest. No more worries and the torque settings are more consistent.

    You can get a kit at most auto parts and/or specialty bolt stores.

    To install a helicoil;

    Carefully cover everything you can with a paper towel to keep the chips out of the engine.

    Put a couple drops of oil in the hole and drill out the old threads until you feel the drill bottom out. Go slow and keep it square.

    Use some more oil to lubricate the tap and tap the hole.

    The tricky part is starting the tap square, go slow for the first couple of turns, once the tap is started make about 2 or 3 turns and back-off a quarter turn each time to break the chip. Screw the tap in and go 3 or 4 more turns after you think it's deep enough. (You can put some tape around the tap to tell how deep you are going). Be careful not to bottom the tap out! They break very easily at the bottom of the hole! There are ways of getting a broken tap out of a hole, but trust me, if you break the tap you are FUBAR.

    Blow out the hole and install the helicoil with the installation tool until the wire is flush, then give it 1.5 more turns, break off the tang with a drift punch, blow it out of the hole, and you're done.

    If you break the tang before the helicoil is deep enough. You can grab it with some needle nose pliers and wind it out of the hole. Carefully re-tap the hole and try again.

    Good luck!

  15. #15
    Senior Member cbrjohnny's Avatar
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    Re: cam cover bolt stripped

    this is why we have torque specs...

  16. #16
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    Re: cam cover bolt stripped

    Provided "trained" mechanics actually use them...
    2006 Triumph Daytona 675-Track Only For Me!

  17. #17
    Gold Member Bueller's Avatar
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    Re: cam cover bolt stripped

    JB weld then drill and tap it.


  18. #18
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    Re: cam cover bolt stripped

    The helicoil kit worked really well. Pretty easy to use.
    2006 Triumph Daytona 675-Track Only For Me!

  19. #19
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    Re: cam cover bolt stripped

    Quote Originally Posted by 675Rider View Post
    The helicoil kit worked really well. Pretty easy to use.
    Great news.


    2008 GSX650F
    2012 Azera, 2009 Santa Fe, 2002 300M,
    2001 Aurora Sold, 1966 Coronet 500 Sold, 1992 3000GT VR4 Sold, and many others sold

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