Any "Gotchas" when doing Inverted Fork Seal Replacement?

[BushyAR15]

So, I've decided to replace my leaking fork seals on my '98 YZF750. I'm mechanically inclined and have done lots of things on my street and racebikes, But I've never done fork seals. For whatever reason I've always treated forks as "black boxes" best left to the experts. But I figured it can't be that "magical". I've searched this forum and on youtube to see how its done.

I've bought the tools and read the service manual on how to do it.

I'm using this video as a guide - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7TrhGN3Bu8 and its second part... He makes it look pretty straight forward, but I was wondering for those that have done their own fork seals if there are any "gotchas" that the above video didn't cover or the service manuals don't mention?

TIA!

[sloridr]

Didn't watch the video. But a second set of hands was really helpful. The first one will take you a coue hours the second will take 30 min... It's not bad. I've helped and watched a couple set get done but haven't done it myself, and my memory sucks!

[TFOGGuys]

The proper seal driver is a huge plus. Set oil by level, not volume, after bleeding the cartridge, with the spring out. KYB forks should be set with the oil emptied from the space between the inner and outer tubes. Lightly buffing the inner tubes with green scotchbrite or 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper will help prevent "seal skipping" leaks and reduce friction.

[BushyAR15]

Thanks guys! This is exactly the kind of info I was looking for!

And if for some reason I can't finish the job I'll bring them to your shop!

The proper seal driver is a huge plus. Set oil by level, not volume, after bleeding the cartridge, with the spring out. KYB forks should be set with the oil emptied from the space between the inner and outer tubes. Lightly buffing the inner tubes with green scotchbrite or 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper will help prevent "seal skipping" leaks and reduce friction.

[rforsythe]

If I totally fuck this up I'll bring them to your shop to redo all of it!

Fixed it for ya.

[BushyAR15]

Damn mind-reader!

Fixed it for ya.

[BushyAR15]

Thanks for the help/advice Jim! The job went pretty smooth. I bought the correct tools so it wasn't too difficult.. Now I'd like to say it everything came out perfect, but alas, no. For some reason my early-dimentia got the better of me, I carefully took apart the first one and resassembled it the way I took it apart. On the second leg, i re-read the book and I began questioning myself as to whether I put the seal in the right way on the first leg... When I re-assembled the 2nd leg, while its not clear which way to install the seal based on the Hayne's manual, I got the impression it was spring-side UP.. So I installed it that way...

After I got everything all put back together I took it for a ride. Well wouldn't you know the 2nd leg isn't leaking but its got a light coat of fork oil like, like its weeping.. DAMMIT.. The leg I did first is dry (seal spring side down)...

Now you ask, why didn't I do them the same? Well I started questioning which was right and which was wrong....

Oh well, I learned... It wasn't too bad a task. I bought the correct tools... All in all from the time I popped the garage door and started setting up to do the work till I had the last tool box put away was 3.5 hours...

I'll redo that leg later this week... Again, not really that bad...

[sloridr]

Sweet glad it worked out for you! Iirc we did the whole which way does it go? Thing too. But we had another bike to compare it to. I wouldn't have remembered myself I would've had to look at another bike

[TFOGGuys]

The lip always points towards the oil you're trying to contain, so the garter spring is always on the inside. Some seals have 2 springs, so the lip is the best indicator.

[BushyAR15]

Because I'm a retard with tools... So I took some pictures... For my simpleton mind....UP=The Triple Tree, Down=Axle...

In pic 1, I'm guessing when you say "lip", I'm thinking its that lip that is visible and that should be pointed ???? when assembled on he bike... I'm guess that faces UP towards the triple tree...

Pic 2 should be facing the axle?

So this is a pic of the old/used fork seal... I can see in the first pic where the retaining clip (not magazine) has left a dent...

But so I'm clear, when I see that "lip" that always faces????

Thanks for helping me out

PIC1



PIC2

[TFOGGuys]

Because I'm a retard with tools... So I took some pictures... For my simpleton mind....UP=The Triple Tree, Down=Axle...

In pic 1, I'm guessing when you say "lip", I'm thinking its that lip that is visible and that should be pointed ???? when assembled on he bike... I'm guess that faces UP towards the triple tree...

Pic 2 should be facing the axle?

So this is a pic of the old/used fork seal... I can see in the first pic where the retaining clip (not magazine) has left a dent...

But so I'm clear, when I see that "lip" that always faces????

Thanks for helping me out

PIC1



PIC2

The garter spring in the second pic should be facing up on an inverted fork when it is on the bike. The large sealing lip is held tight to the fork leg by the spring, and pressure forces from the hydraulic oil in the fork assist in the sealing.

[BushyAR15]

Thanks again, Jim!!!!!!!!!! I took a new one and the old one and studied the inside of each. I now see what you are talking about. It's the inside of the ring that makes contact with the fork leg is what you are talking about.

I think it would have been easier for me to understand if I could have seen one of those moving graphics that shows you how something works, like some of these gun ones that appears to be a cut-away so you can see what happens when th trigger is pulled!

Thanks again for all the help!