"Mambulance" / Wambulance / rrrAmbulance

[DemonRider]

Helpful hints to pass emissions? 7.3 Diesal, Non Turbo, Non Powerstroke.
Zero Shift 2% Opacity
40 MPH 76% Opacity
50 MPH 35% Opacity
60 MPH 04% Opacity

So far we put in new O rings on all injectors; cleaned them really good; our in a new Fuel Rail; New air filter. I have just found these hints also: but what's your experiance?

"""1. Biodiesel Run B80.
2. Leane the fuel air mixture. Adjusting the fuel injector pump is a chore. It can make the engine gutless though.
3. Prior to running the biodiesel; run Seafoam or equevalent through the tank.
4. Changed the fuel filter.
5. Checked the air filter.
6. Ran the vehicle at highway speed for 30 minutes immediately prior to the test to get it properly warmed up. """"""

[Kim-n-Dean]

The easiest way to pass emissions is to get a vehicle which is "Colorado Emission Exempt" like mine...

[Spooph]

@Kim-n-Dean,

thanks for answering the question.... #1. Also, thank you for suggestion a reasonable option #2. Also, thank you for providing specifics on your formula to success, so that it could be duplicated.... #3.

@DemonRider,
Which shop have you taken it to? I would recommend you take it to a dieselshop with a good reputation, like ATS. If this was a gas engine, I could help, but I know very little about Diesel. As far I understand how they measure opacity, the combustion temperature is too low, because the engine is running too rich, which could be anything from low oil-pressure in actuating the injectors, to a contaminated O2 sensor, to something being wrong with the transmission/torque converter... I see that at 40mph it is 76%, the highest, which means that it's probably in a low gear, and the engine is revving pretty high, producing a lot of smoke, maybe a transmission flush would be the fix? Or maybe a brake pad is dragging, causing the engine to work harder, producing more smoke under a heavier than normal strain... However, a pro shop should be able to tell you, and give you a quote which will list everything that needs to be done to fix it...

[birchyboy]

Just curious..how long have you owned it?

[Kim-n-Dean]

@Kim-n-Dean,

thanks for answering the question.... #1. Also, thank you for suggestion a reasonable option #2. Also, thank you for providing specifics on your formula to success, so that it could be duplicated.... #3.

You are very welcome!

@DemonRider,
Which shop have you taken it to? I would recommend you take it to a dieselshop with a good reputation, like ATS.

ATS has a horrible reputation. Drive by just about any performance diesel shop and take a look at all the trucks with ATS stickers waiting to be worked on.

Or maybe a brake pad is dragging, causing the engine to work harder,

If a brake pad were dragging enough to make the engine "work harder", that wheel would be on fire...

[j0ker]

If a brake pad were dragging enough to make the engine "work harder", that wheel would be on fire...

True. I had one stick as I was coming back from skiing. When I stopped at the bottom of the mountain the whole tire was smoking and the rotor was BRIGHT RED. Glad I stopped before I had driven too far!

[DemonRider]

Have owned it about a month or so; I'll be putting some work into it including brakes and obviously other things now. The good thing is the block/heads no longer appears to be the issue that we were/are experiencing :-)

I will keep on looking and hopefully I can get it over to a shop just wanna keep cost down as much as possible. I do need to do some Basic stuff in the mean time; DMV don't give you much time to get things done when registering so was trying to do everything in there time line but that's now out the door ......

[Kim-n-Dean]

Have owned it about a month or so; I'll be putting some work into it including brakes and obviously other things now. The good thing is the block/heads no longer appears to be the issue that we were/are experiencing :-)

I will keep on looking and hopefully I can get it over to a shop just wanna keep cost down as much as possible. I do need to do some Basic stuff in the mean time; DMV don't give you much time to get things done when registering so was trying to do everything in there time line but that's now out the door ......

I wondered what happened to that rig. I'm pretty sure I left a bag of weed in that thing. If you find it, I would like it back. It was some pretty good shit...

[Tylar]

Helpful hints to pass emissions? 7.3 Diesal, Non Turbo, Non Powerstroke.
Zero Shift 2% Opacity
40 MPH 76% Opacity
50 MPH 35% Opacity
60 MPH 04% Opacity

So far we put in new O rings on all injectors; cleaned them really good; our in a new Fuel Rail; New air filter. I have just found these hints also: but what's your experiance?

"""1. Biodiesel Run B80.
2. Leane the fuel air mixture. Adjusting the fuel injector pump is a chore. It can make the engine gutless though.
3. Prior to running the biodiesel; run Seafoam or equevalent through the tank.
4. Changed the fuel filter.
5. Checked the air filter.
6. Ran the vehicle at highway speed for 30 minutes immediately prior to the test to get it properly warmed up. """"""

I ran a 6.0l PowerStroke for 8 years, and while I can't provide three points of recommendations like Spooph requires, I can tell you what I would do beyond what you have already done before taking it to a shop. I've seen/heard this specific truck, so I think this is something you can clean up a little bit.

Compression-ignition efficiency is something you can manipulate through cetane (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cetane_number). You can increase your diesels efficiency by simply buying "cetane booster" and mixing it with a known-good tank of fuel. Also, these oil-actuated injectors can get bitchy if you have oil that has lost its viscosity, is the wrong weight or is perhaps aggravated by a tired high-pressure oil system. Change the oil; the injectors will love you for it.

As for shops to take it to, I agree with Kim-n-Dean, ATS isn't what they perhaps were rumored to be. I've heard better things about Douglas County Diesel, but if you get down that avenue, I'll be happy to share with you the gentlemen I'll let touch my truck in Ft. Lupton.

Not a complete answer, but some suggestions I felt needed mentioning.

[FZRguy]

Maybe Dean's bag of weed ended up in the fuel tank somehow.

[Matty]

Just blame everything on the German guy you bought it from... Haha. Shit, I think I might have left a bag of weed in that bitch as well. Awh... I miss those Abasin beach days!!!

[rforsythe]

Talk to Chris at Factory Trained Auto Repair in Arvada. He's a Ford diesel god, and can get you sorted out. Tell him I referred you. There is one guy at a dealer who touches my truck while under warranty, otherwise it's Chris. I even took the new truck to Chris for some assistance with something.

http://www.factorytrainedautorepair.com/

Also like Tylar said, try some Cetane booster. Ford sells PM-22 at their dealerships, not too expensive. I run Optilube XPD additive with every tank, which boosts Cetane, demulsifies water, anti-gels, and lubricates the fuel system. Also use good fuel. If that shit has been in your tank for a while it's probably oxidized.

[Kim-n-Dean]

There is one guy at a dealer who touches my truck while under warranty, otherwise it's Chris.

Would that be Patrick at Courtesy?

[rforsythe]

Would that be Patrick at Courtesy?

It would.