Fuel Pump Relay Question

[DONO]

What's up everyone!

I've got a quick question for anyone that knows a lot about wiring/relays.

I was out cruis'n around earlier today and my bike started studdering just as it does when your running out of fuel and switching to reserve but reserve didn't work in my case(full tank), it just lost all power and eventually puttered to a stop on the side of the road. So I popped the left tail body panel off so I could listen to the fuel pump while turning the engine over and sure enough no "ticking". I pulled the plastic cover off the pump where the relay is and all the wires were connected but the contact pads on the relays had been fried pretty good, similar to using a coat hanger to touch two battery terminals together.

So my question is this: Can I put some sotter/weld on whats left of the contact points and file it down to the correct spacing to get by for a while instead of paying $50+ dollars for a new pump?

While I was stranded I pulled the pump completely out of the loop and attached from the filter at the petcock directly to the carbs, but at that time I had cranked it over too much and was out of juice, not that it would've worked without the pump, but worth a try nonetheless.

Unfortunatly(?) I'm used to having a 1000 so the past couple of months I have been running at 7,000rpm+ on average to stay at the beginning of the powerband of my new lil 600 so I'm wondering if that may have caused extreme premature wear on the contact pads as the pump squirts faster at higher rpm, and the relay has to make more contacts per second than norm.

Thanks for taking the time to read this and I hope to hear from you electrical magicians soon.

[DONO]

Allright, so after thinking about it for a while I figured I couldn't use sotter to fix the contacts because when they connected it would just fuse the sotter together as it has such a low melting point. I ended up filing the contacts down smooth so that they mesh together but it still didn't work. I guess I'll have to give in and buy a new pump

Later.

[Filo]

turning the engine over and sure enough no "ticking". I pulled the plastic cover off the pump where the relay is and all the wires were connected but the contact pads on the relays had been fried pretty good, similar to using a coat hanger to touch two battery terminals together.

600 so I'm wondering if that may have caused extreme premature wear on the contact pads as the pump squirts faster at higher rpm, and the relay has to make more contacts per second than norm.

As far as the new pump idea goes - unless your relay is an integral part of your pump, you may only need a relay, not a whole pump (I will come back to this).

For the understanding of what the relay does and how your RPMs affect it, the relay should just pull in when you start up the bike putting power to the fuel pump. The pump should run continuously while the bike is on, so there is no on/off action of the relay. Hence, your reviving the bike up should not cause failure due to the relay turning on and off faster.

So the question becomes why did your relay fail? Without any information on the model of the bike, the mileage, etc, it would be tough to say. From your description, it sounds like it may just be a mileage thing, but you may also have a fuel pump that is going bad and drawing too much current. Hard to say...

Good luck with the fixes