Engine Mount Stripped

[Native]

AAAaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaggggggggggggggggggg gggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I've been having a little battle with the left engine mount where the slider bolts on, thought we had reached a truce but no. My bike is old and I've done a LOT of work to keep it running right. You have to remove the slider along with the engine mount bolt EVERY time you take the fairing off, which is about every other ride. The threads were really stripped when I bought it, and I found a receipt from a dealer for "retapping" from the original owner. I cleaned it up again with a tap and for a long time it's been holding the full 100 ft/lbs. Recently, I adjusted the valves and picked up about 20 ft/lbs of torque, so I've been having a great time riding around with all this new power. Turns out the engine mount didn't like that and the slider (my favorite blue one that can't be replaced) fell off up at Deckers.

Bike is a 07 GSXR 750

Thinking about trying this, with a stud instead of a bolt: http://www.helicoil.com.sg/HeliCoil-...rt-Types.shtml

[rforsythe]

An '07 bike is not that old at all. I am a little confused as to why you need to take your fairing off every other ride on a GSX-R 750 though too. They are fairly reliable machines that don't need a lot of upkeep.

The helicoil may work for you, but I would stick with the bolt. If you aren't replacing the slider, get an OEM bolt from a parts supplier like Ron Ayers. If you are, use whatever comes with it. The problem with a stud is that it will still stick out unless you remove that too, which might block your fairing removal.

[UglyDogRacing]

I am confused with why you have to take the engine mount bolt out ever time you need to remove the slider in order to remove the fairing. If that's how they are designed, you need to get rid of them and get something like these -

[Native]

oh these mods, so many questions to answer

An '07 bike is not that old at all. I am a little confused as to why you need to take your fairing off every other ride on a GSX-R 750 though too. They are fairly reliable machines that don't need a lot of upkeep.

bike has 30k, the "every other" figure is on average, so far I've done hoses, oil changes, FI adjusments, cables (gas and clutch), valve adj, exhaust change (too loud), etc, etc, etc, etc, many, many fixes, all required fairngs to come off. riding hard does not help

The helicoil may work for you, but I would stick with the bolt. If you aren't replacing the slider, get an OEM bolt from a parts supplier like Ron Ayers

a bolt will no longer hold, I've nursed it to the end, tried tapping it down to the very bottom - threads must be replaced

The problem with a stud is that it will still stick out unless you remove that too, which might block your fairing removal.

on the gsxr 600/750, the fairing comes straight off. a stud will allow the puck to be removed wo constantly stressing the aluminum/steel connection. on this bike, the bolt is steel and the threads are aluminum (into the block), probably done to save weight over a through rod. the issue has been, I need a slider because mishaps occasionally occur, the old slider SAVED me once in the garage

[Native]

I am confused with why you have to take the engine mount bolt out ever time you need to remove the slider in order to remove the fairing. If that's how they are designed, you need to get rid of them and get something like these -

yes, that is a good option, I can see that the fairing will come off without pulling the bolt. Too bad I didn't get them last year, hindsight is 20/20

[Native]

for now the issue is getting the existing threads fixed so that a engine mount bolt will hold

[UglyDogRacing]

Take it to Bart at http://www.madmoto1.com/ He has done some helicoils for me over the years and can probably help you out.

[Native]

Take it to Bart at http://www.madmoto1.com/ He has done some helicoils for me over the years and can probably help you out.

great suggestion, I do appreciate the help. Bart, I apologize if I bring you my bike fubared. I'd like to fix it myself and post up the fix, I'm thinking there are others with the same issue

[#1Townie]

Well something like this I would suggest letting someone with knelege doing it for you. As you just said hindsight is 20/20. This problem can get worse. Would hate to see you crack or even completely snap the mount into pieces. That's a whole other world of Fml.

[Native]

I will still fix this myself even if I have to pull that engine, it will be fixed. I did the valve adj on this bike and wondered if it would ever run again.

right now:
I have a source for the helicoil 10M x 1.25 x 25cm with locking (safety wire not needed)
I'll use the woodcraft sliders
There's a captive thrust washer that the helicoil may not fit through, the 13/32 bit does go through it, so I'll thread the washer if needed

[One-ops]

Heilcoils arent that hard you can diy no problem

[Native]

Heilcoils arent that hard you can diy no problem

I leave the difficult projects to those who don't mind work

[mdub]

Don't plan to lay ur bike on that side. You'll be okay

[Native]

Don't plan to lay ur bike on that side. You'll be okay

r u sayin favor the left, gasp. I'll try not to crash or let the engine fall out

[FZRguy]

I agree, HC not that hard if you are mech inclined. Take your time and it should be a perm fix.

[Native]

I agree, HC not that hard if you are mech inclined. Take your time and it should be a perm fix.

it should be pretty easy, I'm debating if it's worth an extra $75 to get the 25mm deep hc over the 15mm

[Native]

so, finally got around to fixing this:

Tools: Drill, 13/32 bit, hc kit, long punch

got the helicoil kit from amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5543-...qid=1392505126

it's a M10 x 1.25 - inserts are 15mm
I also got a longer 25mm insert

Lock down the thrust washer tightly - this needs to be really tight because if it slips it'll cause a difficult problem. shown here totally loose



Drill straight through the thrust washer and all the way down to the bottom of the mount hole. it's fairly deep, so use a light to check for you hit bottom. be careful to drill straight, I saw some comments that it's easy to drill it crooked

Tap the hole straight through the thrust washer, tapping the washer as well, that's why the pinch bolt needs to be tight, if the washer moves, the threads won't align, and if the threads don't align between the washer and the engine I don't know how you'd get the hc back out

go really slow because the fine thread generates a lot of chips. pull it back out and clean them off often




use a cheater bar to turn the tap because it'll give you a much better feel for any catching and makes a smoother cut




you have to tap it pretty deep, the washer is 30mm and the hc is 25, so tap all the way up to the "made in chi" (Chicago?)




you'll have a nice set of threads all the way through, make sure that washer doesn't rotate





you'll have to grind the install tool if you get the same kit I did, it's too short




I kind of quit taking pictures, but now you can put the coil in. be sure to use the plastic piece to hold the insert threads together. here's a video that I looked at, the part you need starts at 6:30: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=79IYC4L68LU

[TinkerinWstuff]

Made in Chicago?

Sarcasm right?

Glad to hear you got it fixed. Hard to believe what the charge for those things eh?

[Native]

yeah, I bought this bike knowing it needed some work, but it's been about 10x what I thought. I don't mind though cause I'll probably get something nice next and I'll be more sure about doing mods on that