Anybody know of a good machine shop?

[Richie-Rich]

I bent my rear set shift lever at MRA # 4 and was looking to get just that part machined, don't want to buy a full set. Anyone know of any good machine shops? Estimated price?

Other option: Think if I take a torch to it I can bend it back? Its not to bad.

Thanks

[milehizx6r]

Well heating up metal alloys and bending back to original shape will weaken the part. Makes it brittle.

[milehizx6r]

Try Colorado Fabrication in Broomfield. They machined and welded some aluminum parts for me several years ago for my Jet Ski.

[Bueller]

If it is aftermarket racing rear sets, that stuff is pretty workable, just pound it straight without heat.

[Richie-Rich]

Thanks! How not to take turn 3 at PPIR. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n6x3x2sTm0I

[madvlad]

I was working at 7 yesterday and saw the wipe out man, bummer you couldn't continue

[Richie-Rich]

Live an learn lol!

[madvlad]

True, I'll be at super street 2nd to last round and PPIR last round. Plan to license up next year.

[Richie-Rich]

Nice bout time you got out there : ) I will get my license next year as well!

[madvlad]

Yea, tested the bike out at IMI couple of times after repairs and she did great, just wanting to see how she does at a bigger track and what else I need to tweak with.

[rybo]

If it's a cast piece (stock) it's tricky. The stuff is hit and miss with a weld and gets brittle fast when you try to re-bend it.

If it's a machined piece (woodcraft / vortex or the likes) then, like Bueller said, they are pretty workable. I usually get a couple decent flat pieces of metal and squeeze parts back to straight in my vise. for larger pieces I use a 3 lb engineers hammer on something smooth and heavy to flatten them out.

If it's a vortex or woodcraft type piece you can also just order the replacement parts for reasonable money. That's the nice thing about those suppliers vs. the knock off stuff that's available on ebay. Parts and service available after the sale. I use woodcraft parts on my bike and have been impressed with both the quality of the parts and the service I get when I talk to them or one of their dealers.

[Kim-n-Dean]

I'm certainly no metallurgist, but heating shouldn't make it brittle. Annealing actually softens the metal. Be careful with aluminum, you'll melt it. Whenever I bend or work steel with a hammer, I heat it afterwards to put the metal back to it's original state. The heat realigns the molecules/crystals. At least that's what they taught us in metal shop...

As for machined parts, just stick them in a vice and crank that bitch down. Might have to use a spacer to flex the piece a little past the bend so it comes back straight. I use my Kurt machinist vise, it's super strong!

[Richie-Rich]

Awesome thanks! Ill try that!

This is what I have and I sent them an email and they said they would sell me the individual part since I purchased from them about a year ago.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Rearse...4d7724&vxp=mtr

Says its Steel.

[Bueller]

Put a magnet on it, that'll tell you if it is steel or alloy. One way or another I would still straighten that if it's not bad like you said.

[rybo]

Says 7075 AL

that stuff is pretty malleable. You should be able to bend it back.

[milehizx6r]

7075 is a very hard aluminum alloy. Yeah try to bend it, you'll know if it works or doesn't. It shouldn't Crack nor break.

[RPMWFO]

Scribble on the area you plan to bend with sharpie. Preheat the piece in the oven as hot as you can get it(550F). Take it out and localize heat the bend area with the sharpie marks using a propane torch until the sharpie burns off. Dump the part into a bucket of water. Bend it back straight. The aluminum will work harden as you bend it. If you need to work it again repeat the process. The oven part may not be necessary, but I usually do it as belt and suspenders.