The 40-Year-Old Track Virgin

[SpecialED]

Okay, so that title's not exactly accurate... I'm 44, not 40. And I've been to the track many, many times; but only in cars; never on a bike.

I haven't had a motorcycle in at least five years. The last one was a CBR954. My riding experience is very limited... I've only owned three (a CBR600F4i and a SV650S being the other two).

Some time in last few years I decided I wanted to try riding at the track, before I got even older/more scared/uncoordinated. Last June, I got rid of my "serious" track car—an '06 Evo 9 that I ran in NASA TT1 Time Trials—and that freed up the money and time/attention to pursue the motorcycle thing.

In December I bought a 2009 CBR600RRA (ABS-equipped model). I had also been considering the 2013–14 ZX6R for its technology-enabled rider assists (and for the extra 36cc of power), but decided that it didn't make sense to buy a brand-new bike for more than $10k if there was going to be a good chance of me laying it down.

My plan is to do a bunch of track days at HPR this summer. I don't expect to do much street riding, both because of the added inherent risk of "playing in traffic" with cagers, and because my objective with buying this bike really is to learn how to ride on the track.

You will probably want to ask, "Why didn't you just buy a track bike then?" My answer is that I believe it will be easier to sell a street bike down the road than a fully built track bike, and also at this point I haven't obtained a trailer to take it to tracks yet (although that's probably coming). Maybe I'll go to the track and be really into this for the next five years. Maybe I'll go a couple-three times and decide it's not for me. We'll see.

I'm thinking about preemptively taking the bodywork off and replacing it with something more disposable.

These are the options I was considering:

Optimal Racing fiberglass, $478.48 shipped including 6-piece Dzus fastener kit (I'll need to paint it, but I'll probably just go cheap/ghetto and rattlecan it myself):

http://www.weridemotorsports.com/Opt...r-20092010.htm

Factory plastic replica ABS straight from China off eBay, prepainted and with replica decals/vinyl already applied (in the case of the red/black kit), $693 shipped. Feedback on these kits for this vendor range from good to "the paint is very cheap and chips off easily":

http://www.ebay.com/itm/291108843798?



I like the idea of changing the color of my bike from black/red to all white:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/301132599667?



Having the Optimal fiberglass fairings with Dzus fasteners would make doing oil changes more convenient. Plus it's more than $200 cheaper. Fitment of the Optimal Racing fiberglass could be better than the Chinese-made ABS plastics too. Opinions?

I'm committed to trying not to get hurt on this thing, so beyond the requisite one-piece leather suit, boots, gloves, and helmet, I'm also looking into buying back protection, armored shorts/underwear, possibly even a Hit-Air MLV vest.

I realize that at my first track day at HPR, I'm just going to be crawling around the track, building confidence and familiarity with the lines and getting comfortable with braking and turn-in points (and clocking some blistering 2:30 lap times), but eventually I'd like to learn how to move on the bike and lean properly.

Anyone have any suggestions on how to approach this (mentally)? I've read through these articles; I'm assuming what's in them in accurate:

http://www.ridinginthezone.com/body-position-tips-2/
http://www.sportrider.com/body-posit...ing-techniques
https://rideapart.com/articles/10-th...r-sport-riding

Here's the bike... not that any of you are unfamiliar with what a nearly bone-stock '09–'12 CBR600 looks like. Aside from HID headlights, an LED tailight, the Zero Gravity double bubble windscreen, and frame sliders and spools, I believe it is 100% stock.

I've already ordered a set of TechSpec Snakeskin tanks grips for it. I'm also considering swapping out the OEM levers for FP levers... was thinking about the medium length for the clutch, and shorty length for the brake. Pretty affordable at $135 via motomummy.com. Opinions regarding the lever lengths?

NOTE: it has mirrors; I just hadn't reinstalled them yet after swapping the windscreen when I took this pic:



I'm assuming these stampings on the tires (Michelin Power, unfortunately not the dual compound 2CT version) are the build dates? They're in great shape in terms of tread depth, but 2011 seems kinda old to me... but this is coming from a mindset where R-comp tires for cars like Hoosier R6s or BFG R1Ss are considered "old/crusty" if the build date is more than about 18 months ago... I'm assuming they're fine for my first few track outings?

And should I bother swapping out the front brake pads to something like the EBC Double-H sintered pads, or just go with whatever is in there (assumedly the OEM pads, at only 8k miles) to start out?









And in case any of you have ever been out to HPR or Pueblo for a NASA racing weekend, you might have seen me in one of these two cars (the Evo is gone; I still have my S2000):

[tecknojoe]

I've never used optimum fairings, but I don't go for the chinese ebay stuff, it never fits well. I've had good success with hotbodies as well, but others will say they're hit and miss. Having some track plastics is definitely worth it when you can just drop the belly pan and drain oil, do wiring, etc.

Back protector is required, but sounds like you're getting it anyway which is good

I highly reccomend getting new tires, those are starting to get old and you could do a lot better with other rubber. If you want to stick with a street tire, I like the 2CT, I was able to put an elbow down with them. Just take a full lap and half warm up on them every time u go out. If nothing else, it'll eliminate any worry in your head about whether or not the tires are still good. I personally don't like thinking about that when I'm out on the track

Since brake pads are cheap, and you've got 8k on the old ones, just swap them. Those EBC Double-H Sintered would be good

[ahamay]

Another good street track tire is the dunlop q3. I loved the q2's and had a few friends race and podium with them. Wasn't their desired tire for the day but they were able to achieve good results with them.
How I started was doing a trackday and then taking a school, doing a trackday and then taking another school. I learned an incredible amount in a short time by going this route and even though some of the stuff I learned was over my head, I later understood it and it saved me from an expensive mistake. Not sure what, who, or when stuff is offered here as I just moved from Sandy Eggo, but I loved the Jason Pridmore Star school and gained an invaluable amount of info from the Keith Code Super Bike schools.
No honorable mentions for body work as I have only had hot bodies and everything has fit fine for me.

[SpecialED]

Thank you for the feedback tecknojoe and ahamay.

Anyone have any recommendations on lever length? Maybe this is overthinking things, but I am planning on getting a pair of Alpinestars GP gloves with the pinky and fourth fingers tied together... didn't know if that would make it awkward to hang on and operate the brake and clutch with the OEM, full-length levers.

Additional info: I have fairly large hands—men's size large gloves—but I don't have superlong fingers.

[Clovis]

Thank you for the feedback tecknojoe and ahamay.

Anyone have any recommendations on lever length? Maybe this is overthinking things, but I am planning on getting a pair of Alpinestars GP gloves with the pinky and fourth fingers tied together... didn't know if that would make it awkward to hang on and operate the brake and clutch with the OEM, full-length levers.

Additional info: I have fairly large hands—men's size large gloves—but I don't have superlong fingers.

I have the Alpinestar MotoGP gloves. My pair has lasted 7 years and the index finger tip is finally just starting to wear.

Honestly, when riding you don't notice the pinkie and ring finger being stitched together. It doesn't affect the riding or controls at all.

The fingers are stitched together because it's easy to roll and sprain/brake your pinky in a crash... it's just kind of hanging out there.

To their credit, I've had 3 slides while wearing this one set and they've worked and continued on. One slide was at 70mph due to mud that had been washed onto the highway... back wheel lost traction while going in a straight line at highway speeds.

Highly recommended!

[ahamay]

Honestly you are over thinking, just do a day or two and see what you are comfortable with. Bikes are a tad more personal than cars and to each their own. I have never owned a cbr but my current bike is a ninja 636 and I have found the ground clearance way to low. For me, I like to lean, feel the knee touch, pull it in a tad to save pucks and go. With the ninja I am touching toes with knee so I have to raise the rear and get rear-sets. Just like your evo and s2000, get some seat time and see what you like and don't. Big thing is do not skimp on gear, tires, and hydration/food when riding.

[Bueller]

Congrats on stepping over to the 2 wheel side, it'll hook you in short order. I just picked up a Mustang GT last year to start doing some car track days and I am having a great time but I gotta say it is just not the rush that the bikes give you.
Don't sweat the small stuff, go out ride and have fun. You are going to start hearing a lot of the cliches, "It is much more about the rider than the bike", "There will always be some one faster", "slow is smooth, but you have to be smooth to go fast".

Best bet is to hook up with a track junkie or MRA racer at the track to get some no BS advice.

[SpecialED]

Thanks; I realize there's only so much value in trying to prepare for something new before you actually have the experience to effectively benefit from that planning/thought (I have definitely fielded the "overthinking things" noob questions myself from people who are just getting into the activities I'm very familiar with, namely autocross and going to the track in cars), but I also want to be as prepared as possible and not have a bad experience/buy the wrong parts for lack of forethought or knowledge.

Surprised that nobody has made the kinds of responses I was expecting about aftermarket shorty levers though, such as "they're awesome, best inexpensive mod ever; I only use two fingers anyway" or "OEM levers will give you the most leverage and least hand fatigue due to the length."

[tecknojoe]

Did you see this yesterday? If you're not going to use tire warmers, this is a great deal and good set of tires for you. I would jump on this: http://www.cosportbikeclub.org/forum...lop-Q2-150-NEW

As for levers, I've always used stock without any issues. I use the alpinestars GP pro (I think) with the attached pinky, and I've never noticed it. If I have some extra cash, I'd try to find some folding ones since they crash a little better

[ahamay]

http://superbikeschool.com/schedule/

Not sure if you are interested in schools but if you want and early start on the season and are willing to travel outside the state, the Keith Code school is pretty good. Not looking to start a B!t@# session about school programs but I learned a lot from the program and recommend it. It is $$$$ no doubt and some of the fundamentals they preach are not built for everyone but the classes covering rider input and survival reactions really saved me from big $ crashes. I believe someone sticky'ed the school videos on one of the Kawasaki forums so you can essentially watch to entire class for free.

[SpecialED]

Did you see this yesterday? If you're not going to use tire warmers, this is a great deal and good set of tires for you. I would jump on this: http://www.cosportbikeclub.org/forum...lop-Q2-150-NEW

I did, thanks... definitely not going to start off on race tires that warrant/need tire warmers... how much should I be paying for labor to swap tires, assuming I ride it in? I would consider removing the wheels myself, but I don't have stands (yet). But maybe I can borrow them from a friend.

As for levers, I've always used stock without any issues. I use the alpinestars GP pro (I think) with the attached pinky, and I've never noticed it. If I have some extra cash, I'd try to find some folding ones since they crash a little better

Okay, appreciate the input.

ahamay: I'll look for those superbike school videos online, thanks!

Your hesitation to recommend a specific riding school/program reminds of the drama that always ensues whenever anyone asks for or gives advice about engine tuners in the modified Evo or Subaru world... lol.

[tecknojoe]

It's been a while for me, but I've always taken the wheels off. Then I take them to MadMoto (their site might be down right now). Bart and Steve know their shit and take good care of me, I want to say ~$15-$25 per wheel when they're off the bike, I can't remember.

You have time, I say order those tires now, find some stands. Then when you have those things, just take the wheels in yourself

[Bueller]

My advice would be to buy stands and a trailer before any of the other things you are thinking about. You do not want to ride your bike to the track.
Even when I take the Stang out I usually have my wife follow me in her vehicle. You don't want to have a mechanical, or worse a crash @ the track and then try to get you and the bike home. Even if you do ride out, do a track day, and everything is fine and you can ride home. I guarantee you will be looking for a trailer after a time or two, because this is about 5 times the work as a car. After a day at the track you will be sore and exhausted. Not a good time to have to ride home.

The stands will be a necessity so you might as well bite the bullet and get them. Front triple tree stand is the only way to go. For the rear stand I would suggest the spool type or the universal that can be set up either spool or swing arm lift. I really like Pit Bull Stands, they cost but are worth it to me. I always buy them used for $75-90 ea.

If it is going to be a track bike and you can live with the occasional scratch on the wheels I would look into changing them yourself. I usually have my vendor mount my tires but I flip my race rubber myself, or if I find good take offs I mount those.
I have my wheels balanced with out tires and usually don't worry about balancing beyond that, but I am on an SV 650 so 130mph is about all she'll do down the back straight, but I have never had an issues.

And least but also last, don't worry about the age thing Some of the fastest smoothest riders are the old guys.

Check out the MRA's Formula 40 class. A bunch of guys and girls that go really fast and all over 40.

[SpecialED]

My advice would be to buy stands and a trailer before any of the other things you are thinking about. You do not want to ride your bike to the track.
Even when I take the Stang out I usually have my wife follow me in her vehicle. You don't want to have a mechanical, or worse a crash @ the track and then try to get you and the bike home. Even if you do ride out, do a track day, and everything is fine and you can ride home. I guarantee you will be looking for a trailer after a time or two, because this is about 5 times the work as a car. After a day at the track you will be sore and exhausted. Not a good time to have to ride home.

Agreed 100%; the trailer is definitely in the plans, but I am hoping to get a ride out and back with Generic (Chris M.) early season.

The stands will be a necessity so you might as well bite the bullet and get them. Front triple tree stand is the only way to go. For the rear stand I would suggest the spool type or the universal that can be set up either spool or swing arm lift. I really like Pit Bull Stands, they cost but are worth it to me. I always buy them used for $75-90 ea.

Yeah, I'm resigned to having to buy a set of Pit Bull stands. I realize the rear is the first one to get... but check out this front Pit Bull stand on CL for $100. Isn't it missing all the hardware that constitute the actual lift points to the bike?

http://denver.craigslist.org/mpo/4846070897.html

And least but also last, don't worry about the age thing Some of the fastest smoothest riders are the old guys.

Check out the MRA's Formula 40 class. A bunch of guys and girls that go really fast and all over 40.

Hey, I fully realize some older people are really fast—when I used to run 10ks and half-marathons, it blew my mind at first, looking at the results, and seeing how many superfit and fast runners there are in the 40–55 yo age range—but unfortunately that's not me.

The only time I'm fast at the track is when I'm flying off edge of the asphalt. And "smooth" has been eluding me for decades!

Here's some of my best work at HPR and Miller:

http://youtu.be/yQg2E36iv04

http://youtu.be/r0iY53ROzQw

[blaircsf]

The pin on the top of that stand goes in a hole on the bottom triple clamp. You can buy different sized pins if it doesn't happen to match your bike.

You can see the various styles here:
http://www.pit-bull.com/category/front_stands.html

Obviously if you want to drop the forks the headlift type is easier, if you just want to change tires either works, just personal preference. I prefer the headlift type (or triple clamp, whatever you want to call them).

[SpecialED]

Unless something goes wrong with the last-minute trailer prep, I'm heading to Pueblo tomorrow for my first-ever open-lapping track experience (on a motorcycle) and then the Sunset clinic @ 4pm. Super excited and nerous.

[madvlad]

Nice man, just remember to have fun. People start taking the track thing too seriously and causes them to think abruptly.